Fuel in vacuum canister

[jimdubs]

The vacuum advance canister in my 67 wasn't holding vacuum, so I took it apart to see what was up since I was going to replace it anyway.

There was evidence of fuel (varnish) over half way up the inside.

The engine has the proper metal bent tube designed to help stop this from happening, so my questions are: 1. Whether there is anything else that can be done? 2. Is this a sign of some other carb issue? 3. Is it just par for the course?

Now, I have never driven this car, I am currently putting it together, so I have no idea of it's history, or whether there are any drivability symptoms. The engine idles and revs without issue as far as I can tell.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

[tasb]

Since you don't know the history of the engine or distributor I would guess that the vacuum line was added sometime after the damage was already being done. if you had the correct distributor for a 1967 VW you would not have a properly revving engine. The stock distributors for 1967 were SVA's. The only means of spark advance is through your non working vacuum canister. You probably have a SVDA distributor installed that has both vacuum and mechanical advance. The mechanical advance will make you think you have good spark advance. VW's started getting SVDA's in 1968 with the advent of the semi-automatic transmission cars. What part numbers are on the distributor and carburetor?
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1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[jimdubs]

The carb is a 30pict1, the distributor number looks like 113 905 205K (of course it faces where you can't see)

I should clarify that the vacuum advance would pull, but not hold for long, so I would guess that for brief revving it was operating.

I tend to agree with your thought that the pipe may have been deleted at some point and then put back in later.

Being new to VW's I just want to make sure that there isn't anything else I should be looking into.

[glutamodo]

I agree with tasb, who knows what history that distributor had.

I bought a distributor a while back that I thought would be parts... and it was, but like you the vacuum canister did "sort of" work the first time I put a hose on it and sucked (another vacuum-only distributor, just slightly older than yours) but very badly. I pried mine open and found much as you described, only worse... I guess you can say it really sucked.

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Andy T.


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[tasb]

In 1967 the systems on a VW were still fairly simple. You have a correct carburetor to distributor match with a leaky vacuum canister. You will need to locate a core 113 K that still has a good vacuum canister. I have probably 50 113 K's but maybe only 20 good vacuum canisters-that's how it goes.
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1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[bluebus86]

internet search finds several places that claim they can replace a failed vacuum diaphram, such as...

http://www.qualityrebuilds.com/services.aspx
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[tasb]

Their in New Zealand, if that matters. There are several companies here in the states that do repairs and when they are contacted they state that they cannot repair the Bosch units found on VW distributors.
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Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[tasb]

[scrivyscriv]

[glutamodo]

Tim, I thought I talked to you about that one at the time.

Yeah that's a 1965 era 111-M canister and it was so saturated with gunk I'm not sure what it was made out of. If you click on the picture to zoom in, you can sort of see how it was cracking - what was left of it was very thin so it might be as you say - it pretty much disintegrated as I removed it from the inner half. I threw out all the remnants though after taking the arm all the way apart.

And then I actually started to fix it myself, getting some neoprene sheeting that I thought might work. I cut out a disc of the stuff and attched it to the pieces of the arm, put the arm back together, using some two-part adhesive designed for rubber and plastic, and then set it aside to cure. And forgot about it. That was over half a year ago. I recently thought I'd finish putting it back together to see if it worked at all, and for life of me I cannot find the outer half of the canister, the dome with the vacuum fitting on it. It should be in the box I keep by my kitchen table full of misc parts, that's where the rest of it was. Maybe someday it'll turn up, but I did look quite a bit for it.
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IMAGE NOTE: It has been noted that Chrome based browsers may have issues in displaying my vast image library, which use non-secure links and are on an FTP server. Images should still be viewable if the link is clicked though.
I do not know how to fix this. All I can say is it all works fine for me with what I use, Firefox.

[tasb]

I think it's more a case of how the canister is put together. Once you've taken it apart it doesn't look very nice when re-assembled.
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Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[wcfvw69]

I've experimented with disassembling several Bosch vacuum canisters to see what's involved with rebuilding them w/new diaphragms. Each diaphragm that had failed reeked of old fuel or varnish. Clearly people were not using the shepherds hooks and looping the retard line vacuum hoses.

I went and installed new diaphragms into a DVDA vacuum canister and got it back together. It looks ok but was a lot of work to open it, fix the crimp seal and then reseal it back together. Sadly, it didn't hold vacuum and I know now what I did wrong in reassembling it.

There are a few fixtures and some tooling I many or may not make for the process to be much faster and cleaner.

However, I know for sure there is no money to be made doing it. It's simply too time consuming to rebuild the DVDA canister as most VW owners wouldn't pay the prices for a nicely rebuilt DVDA canister.

Clearly this is why the companies that do restore vacuum canisters don't do the DVDA's.
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[Abscate]

Bill - is this caused by the 009 phenomenon setting a price floor on a rebuilt DVDA distributors?

Never mind you then have to whine about a flat spot.
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[Helfen]

I used to see this when I worked for VW. It most often is caused by someone installing a rubber vacuum line straight from the distributor to the carburetor or for some unknown reason they straightened out the hardline vacuum tube. The factory put a loop or sometimes a bend to keep fluid out of there.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/img/wwpn/211129493.jpg

[heimlich]

I think I saw someone else that put a back flow preventer in line. I am still curious about this. It would be quite nice if we with vacuum canisters could find one for the ultimate protection.
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[Glenn]

On late model cars they looped the vacuum hose through the air cleaner clip which is well above the height of the carb.

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[wcfvw69]

[Helfen]