| Author |
Message |
Freak182
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2008
Posts: 244
|
 Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 8:02 am Post subject: |
 |
|
| jfats808 wrote: |
| If you built an engine or even took one apart and rebuilt it then you would know what to use and not to use. |
that assumes the person who built it before you knew what the hell they were doing.
That's a big assumption and could be a costly one.
Next. Fine, take an engine apart. Hmm. What is this black stuff? Or blue? Or red? Where do I find the manufacture's label? Or maybe it's red, maybe it's orange? What if you have color issues like 14% of adult males which happens to confuse red and greens and blues? What if it's the wrong stuff? What if it is the wrong stuff but just hasn't created a problem yet? What if all you've ever worked on up to this point is waterpumpers? Or maybe motorcycle engines? Fords? Snowmobiles?
Seems to me people are being pricks just for the sake of being a prick. I'm sure every one of you learned everything you've done by not asking a single question of anyone, correct? I thought the idea was to share information? Mr Raby took the time out of his day to share, so did others (and thank you to those who did) so why does every third person feel like it is their god-given purpose to say 'use the search feature?' Search for 'sealant' and you get 467 hits. 1847 for 'gasket.' Some don't apply. do you want to go through all of them and find out? What is wrong with one thread with most of the answers? What if you can't spell well (which is a huge chunk of people here, let's be honest - 'brakes' and 'breaks' drives me fucking nuts), misspell sealant as 'sealent' and you only get 47 hits. The search feature isn't always the answer.
Don't like the question? Don't post in the thread and it will go away. It's not rocket science. Not like the guy is asking what the difference between a Super and a regular Beetle is or how to put a Porsche engine in his ride.
I'll go away now. My one addition to the OP is to be careful where you use anti-seize, find out if the torque figures you are looking at are for dry threads or not. It does make a difference.
_________________
| johnnypan wrote: |
| I also happen to believe people who roll fatties have prettier women,smarter children and are truly the uber mensch of volkswagen society..and their beer is colder and tastes better |
Supporters:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=Viande
Decal restoration by bryanbrutherford
www.CooperTires.com
http://www.oeveedub.com/ |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
jfats808
Samba Member
Joined: December 10, 2007
Posts: 5022
Location: oahu hawaii
|
| Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 9:59 am Post subject: |
|
|
You sound like one of those guys who practices all theory and no application too. The point u missed is if you search you CAN find the info you need. You know how I know? I did it. So before you hammer the guy that chastizing the lazy guy, look in a mirror first. Remember this is the internet, you don't like something get off. I use basically 5 product. Stp oil treatment, red and blue loctite, cam molylube, thread sealant, and aviation permatex. Where and when its applied I'll let you theory guys figure it out since researching comes hard to u. Lazy people irritate me. I mean...you did expect to actually do something? Pay to play brother.
_________________
2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD
| Rockstar Suzuki wrote: |
You might as well put 10 year build in your bullshit sig, as it will NEVER run. Also your a dick |
You can always learn something new, even from a fool.
Check your oil levels routinely! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Freak182
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2008
Posts: 244
|
| Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 11:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
There's a huge difference between being lazy and being efficient. Trying to get all the information in one place is called being efficient. Work smarter, not harder. That concept is missed by some people. Whatever, I said my piece and I refuse to get into a pissing match.
To the OP, good luck with your quest.
_________________
| johnnypan wrote: |
| I also happen to believe people who roll fatties have prettier women,smarter children and are truly the uber mensch of volkswagen society..and their beer is colder and tastes better |
Supporters:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=Viande
Decal restoration by bryanbrutherford
www.CooperTires.com
http://www.oeveedub.com/ |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32989
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
|
| Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 6:01 am Post subject: |
|
|
| spectre6000 wrote: |
I don't want to know which ones to use, I want to know what they are and WHEN they are used in general terms. Here are some examples:
The metal sandwich gaskets are used for exhaust manifolds because
_ The temperatures are so high that a paper gasket would simply burn away, heck I've seen metal ones burn away! They also make an "asbestos" type, most often a grey heavy "paper" product. There are also metal impregnated "asbestos", solid metal exhaust gaskets, and also gaskets made from spun wire pressed into the gasket shape like a laminate. _____
and carbs manifolds because __Good question that I don't have the answer to, they make both, metal and "paper". I generally use the metal gaskets in this spot for they crush and seal effectively but as with the exhaust, only use once! Some have had problems with the metal ones leaking and have installed the paper gaskets....personal choice base on past personal experiences ___.
The red/blue/cream colored paper gaskets are different because they ___ In general, I've found that the different colors are often different thicknesses of gasket paper. There is a dizzying array of gasket materials on the market from cork, rubber mixed with cork, rubbers, and various papers and paper mixes. They take different fluids or temperatures and seal better in given situations. Generally in a gasket kit you don't have a real choice, they just give it to you and you use it or make your own from the rolls of gasket material you have rotting in your tool box!!. ___ and are used where ___ Paper is generally used where two surfaces meet and must be sealed from leakage of Gasoline, Oils or Air. Paper is the gasket of choice in most applications. Do not "goop" up carburetor gaskets for they are often frequently removed and reused, this about the ONLY spot that this is done......go figure! __ and _____ are connected. I've found that the old cork valve cover gaskets seem to work the best. For some reason the "newer" rubber ones seem to leak for me and I don't want to go "gooping" them in place with various sealers. I'd rather just use a gasket that works and removes easily for replacement every 3000 miles.
Loctite makes things not unscrew from vibrations and should never be used __ There are various strengths of locktite and are most often identified by color. Red and Blue are the most popular but they have green and purple as well. I use very little lock tite and if I do it is generally blue that releases fairly easily. I depend on the old fashioned lock washers and then are tightened to the proper torque. I've never really experienced many fasteners coming loose from vibration. I am usually more concerned with a fastener coming OFF when I want it to without breaking studs or screwing them out of the aluminum or Magnesium parts. The plus side of using locktite is that it also acts as an anti seize keeping out corrosion, on that note they also make a thread sealer to does just that as well. It doesn't lock in the fastener but forms a barrier against oil seeping past the threads. I usually just use a dab of Permatex aviation under the washer which oozes a tad down the stud to accomplish the same. ___. I'll add, that I do use a fair amount of Anti Seize in quantities and in spots I probably shouldn't or it isn't needed for fear of corrosion. Do make note to check the web site of any anti seize or thread locker product to see how much the torque is affected by the lubricating properties of the given item. There is much discussion if the torque Values stated by Bentley are for dry or oiled studs and bolts. No one has the "proper" answer but everyone has "their" answer they live with.
Silicon sealants do ___ They have their uses. Mostly in newer water pumpers where some surfaces never had a gasket from the factory. There are many different types with differing temperature application ranges plus some that do NOT out gas and screw up your oxygen sensors ___ well but suck at __ In my opinion, stay away from them on an air cooled engine. I'd make an exception IF you have added a screw on oil filter system but worry about their effect on bearing crush if used on the case seam ____ and are typically used to ____ again in newer cars, they seal an amazing array of surfaces. Intake manifolds, thermostat housings, throttle bodies, even exhaust manifolds. I'm old fashioned, I prefer gaskets but have accepted using silicone products where the book says to use them. The engineers who designed the car ARE smarter than me. I also get the factory manual for any car I do serious work on so I know what the recommendations are for most surfaces I need to seal, I'm NOT a big fan of Haynes and Chiltons repair manuals though I have gotten some for various cars that I couldn't get the factory book for or knew the car was just passing through and didn't want to make the investment in the factory manual, they are generally EXPENSIVE _____
Specifics are more or less limited by cost and availability, knowing the general details can help me make my own decisions versus just doing what pick-a-lugnut is using. |
Too much red, sorry but just trying to help. I do feel a topic like this would be a good addition to the forums. I've spent my fair share of time searching what people use in today's modern chemical sealant world and it would have been handy to have a Sticky about sealants saving a lot of time. Not against doing research but why do it when there are other better ways of accomplishing the same result?
BTW, these are MY opinions on this topic. Others will strongly disagree on some if not all points. Expect it. YOU must decide what is right for YOUR engine after doing research and getting educated.
Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
donmurray
Samba Member
Joined: December 30, 2008
Posts: 841
Location: Frisco Texas
|
| Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 1:01 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Maybe I should have posted my pump fitting seal problem here, but here's the link with some info on that question, and some comments on sealing pipe type threads. Discussion about Loctite 518 and the Permatex equivalent.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=440881 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
mightymouse
Samba Member
Joined: May 26, 2004
Posts: 4220
Location: las vegas
|
| Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 2:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Curil T for the whole shabang. No leaks. Need to use more or less of it depending on where its being applied. This i have learned well. Cylinder bases need a liberal amount of it. Case halves a medium amount. Everywhere else just needs a light coat.
I like having to only use one sealant, and have zero leaks. 
_________________
Nothing can stop the man with the right mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help the man with the wrong mental attitude.
Thomas Jefferson
Note to EVERYONE.
Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
modok
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009
Posts: 27719
Location: Colorado Springs
|
| Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 3:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
since this is back up top I'll add alittle.
Locktite and epoxy are both kinda similar in a way, or rather some people might use them for the same things.
One thing about epoxy is it has a "skin" on it, what's that about? Well the reason it does this is because it tends to cure good in the middle but not so well on the surfaces. If you sandwich a very thin layer of epoxy between two metal surfaces it has a very hard time curing. This is why expxy is not the best for small gaps.
Locktite on the other hand cures BETTER when in contact with metal, so if you have a .010" gap green goop is the thing to use.
What about panelbond epoxy? Oh, yeah that stuff. Believe it or not it has little beads in it so you can't squeeze it too thin. Really. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
daos
Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2017
Posts: 312
Location: Stockholm, SWE
|
| Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 11:15 am Post subject: Re: Sealants and Gaskets 101 |
|
|
hey, this was getting good. very useful info. and using the search function, 'sealant 101' is the second hit. so actually a good idea.
i know, i'm 10 yrs late. but so what? this is an information archive, longevity for future use is half the point. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
