BN4 heater w/dual carbs : anyone done it?

Ry-dog

I am also trying to figure out if I can get dual carbs in my early bay engine compartment with BN4 heater installed. I believe I have the early style BN4 heater with exhaust coming out at 7-8 o'clock. I did read a handful of posts and it sounds like some have been able to move the heater further to the left, but I don't see anyway of changing the BN4 duct penetration anywhere different than the leftmost firewall area. What are the lowest profile dual carb setup that might fit? Here are a couple pictures showing my engine compartment.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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VWDruid · Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:23 am Post subject:

look at the Buddy Heaters line with the O2 and tip over shut off.
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busdaddy · Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:21 am Post subject:

kuleinc · Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:01 am Post subject:

You're talking about these?

http://www.mrheater.com/

No thanks, I don't want to die from monoxide poisoning, and those are loud as hell, had one in a shop we worked at, were only allowed to use it with the garage door open...
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Pbotsonis · Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 11:24 pm Post subject:

kuleinc · Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:47 pm Post subject:

Does anyone know if you can run those propex heaters while driving? Can the BN4/6's be run while driving? My kid rides in the back, can get cold back there, we've been giving her several blankets...
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DavidKvapil · Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:29 pm Post subject:

Yep
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kuleinc · Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 8:51 pm Post subject:

DO those BN4's run off the gas in the tank for the engine?
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jpeters · Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 8:07 pm Post subject:

My 73 has dual factory solexes and factory bn4. Fits like a glove. The bn4 working reliably...well, that's a different story.
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Micropassatman · Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 6:47 pm Post subject:

Back from the dead! I'm thinking of installing my BN4 when I install my 34 ICT's. Anybody done such a thing? Got stories and pics?

metropoj · Samba Member Joined: April 23, 2004 Posts: 1343

hey Westy Dood, the AFC injection may have a height restriction, if I remember correctly, the air box on a beetle AFC system is quite high, worth taking a measurement ....

When we spoke about heaters in email, it appears as though the Type IV dual carb motors do not have a clearance issue with the Torpedo heater that apparently exists with the T1 upright motor ..... My T IV Dual carbed had an assumed factory installed BN4 as well ....

71WestyDood · Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 8:21 pm Post subject: thanks for the advice

good advice, thx.

I've already bastardized this 71 westy bus by cutting (sorry you purists) the bed area and installing an inspection hatch from a later model bus, I'm 6'1" and working from the back hatch is such a back breaker.

I've also thought of doing the BA6 heater, but that looks like a whole bunch of extra fab work and muckery, and from what I can tell it would hang out the bottom a bit so some sort of custom skid plate would need to be made.

Currently I have a single 44IDF on the engine, which would only fit after the inspection hatch was installed.

I suppose fuel injection such as a digifant unit would entirely solve this, but I like the idea of having a carb (or two) to beat on if something goes awry out in the middle of nowhere vs. carrying around fuel injectors and a spare brain Smile

Thanks
-d

Pearl the party bus · Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 11:21 am Post subject:

my 73 has dual carbs and has what appears to be a factory installed BN4, however, it is currently not working and because it is so horribly difficult to get at, I haven't got around to fixing it yet. I can't even see the spark/glow plug which I suspect neds to be cleaned or replaced. I think there is a poorly scanned manual for the heater on-line somewhere that describes how to install it.
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stevemariott · Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:13 am Post subject:

Dave, I've done it, it is a bear! Smile

You can barely see it on the left side of the pic I posted. It's possible, but for most people more work than it's worth.
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Dave R · Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 9:58 am Post subject:

stevemariott · Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 9:05 am Post subject:

With some mods you can make it fit in the area it was intended, but it's a real bear.

You are likely better off moving it to an entirely different place, as Dave R did.
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Dave R · Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 8:11 am Post subject:

With apologies to those who shudder at the thought of cutting holes into a perfectly good floor or jump seat base...

Many years back, I moved my BN4. It's under the jump seat. Combustion air comes from outside, exhausts down through a stub pipe. Heated air is not "fresh" (i.e., cold and potentially stinky engine compartment air) , but recirculated cabin air which makes the interior super hot in a hurry.

You'll need to fabricate a bracket on which to seat the BN4, make a mighty short piece of ducting to mount the thermostat on the outlet (it's a snug fit under the seat), aim this at a big old hole cut in the jump seat with a grill over it, cut a hole(!) through the floor for exhaust, fabricate a stub pipe for exhaust, another hole for the combustion air, shorten the bowden cable and re-route it for thermostat control, get power to it, get a fuel line to it, and most likely a couple of other things.

It sounds somewhat haphazard, but pay attention to the important stuff - mainly your fuel line coming into the cabin(!) - no leaks. The heater itself doesn't present much in the way of hot surfaces - the exhaust is actually quite "cool" after the heat is extracted and the gap around stub exhuast can be effectively sealed with high temperature RTV. And do go to the trouble of making sure the heater is working properly to begin with. I went through a full tune-up/check-out on the BN4 about 15 years ago and it has functioned faithfully ever since.

I have plenty of room for dual carbs.

-Dave R

71WestyDood

I would like to do dual carbs in my 71 westy, but need to keep the bn4, which gets in the way. any success stories????

tia

-d


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