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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2016 2:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Dual battery diagram missing Reply with quote

So the auxiliary battery needs to be grounded via a battery strap to the body of the bus? Just ordered the Hella Kit from Bus Depot since it was a complete guessing game with German Supply.
Arrival will be tomorrow, so I am looking to hook up aux battery tomorrow afternoon.
Also if in line fuses are used, is the need of an additional fuse box still needed?
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 2:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Dual battery diagram missing Reply with quote

You should replace batteries in pairs.
Batteries

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7940278#7940278

Battery Install with Perko - Aux. Battery+Auxiliary Battery

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 1:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Dual battery diagram missing Reply with quote

Im in the process of doing this myself. My Westy had it originally, as the rusted relay is still present, and there has the factory splice off the main battery terminal.
I'm in the waiting line for German Supply to finish fabbing some relay kits, as of yesterday they are still out. All I was told was itd be at least two weeks. Bus Depot is my go to for practically everything, is their Hella kit really subpar to Scott's kit?
Also as long as both batteries are liquid types with relatively the same CCA's (450-the other 600 CCA's), do I have the okay to charge my system effectively and safely?
Should I place the platter battery for the main, and the lower one for the secondary or vice-versa?
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want the dual batteries set up so all of your auxillary loads run off the house battery saving your start battery for getting home. You should use a deep cycle battery for the house. Both batteries need to be the same type such as lead acid.

stereo
dome lights
power plugs
CO detector
etc.

These should all be connected to the house battery.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Aeromech. I'm fine without the fridge. Icebox works great for our weekend trips/shows. It's the light, and sink pump I'd like to use. Been just using battery op lamps, and when hooked up with shore power a small lamp. The when the water is hooked to external hookup, sink works fine. Don't plan to use the water tank, but never know. Just want the aux battery for those weekends that we are nowhere near any hookups.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been told that you can get a 12 volt refrigerator. Supposed to be much better than trying to run a 120 volt using an inverter.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a 79 Weetfalia Deluxe. Finally after three years of ownership going to get the aux. battery setup up and running. There is still the stock setup with the relay and wiring between the two batteries, battery cables are still there. I recently bought the German Supply Aux Battery kit just in case.

Now here are a few questions I have. Previous Owner had removed fridge due to "cooling issues with it" and converted to icebox. He also removed the Power Invertor that was under the seat. None of them he saved! Crying or Very sad I've camped in it a thousand times just using shore power though, so outlets work. Question being was the Aux Battery just for fridge? For Fridge and Interior light above stove? For Fridge, Interior Light, and Sink pump? Do I need that or another Inverter before proceeding with getting it going on Aux Power? I'll snap some photos here shortly of the system that's still in it.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

THANK YOU SCOTT!!!! this worked perfect, now i got my radio running off my second battery and i have all my second battery stuff set up and working as it should (so far, need a new deep cell battery and a new battery tray still....)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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aeromech
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Telford. What was that saying? How does it go? Something like "when you buy quality, you only cry once"
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
ran the test as you suggested this morning. When the 87 wire is disconnected the alt. warning light on the dash stays on when the motor is running. This suggests the problem is with the relay?

Correct.
Quote:
test voltage across 85 and 86 terminals and got 4.40 V when running.

OK - that's too low. Would expect to see upwards of 14 volts. So assuming that you have everything wired per the diagram, one of two things is the problem:

1) The relay coil is pulling more current than the diode trio inside the alternator can provide.

2) The diode trio inside the alternator is bad, or the "D+" connection between the alternator and regulator is bad.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If you can, disconnect the aux battery relay coil wire (86) which connects to the regulator (blue wire terminal), and connect it to the + terminal on the battery through an ammeter, so as to measure the relay coil operating current. Report the value back here.

I assume that the relay you're using is designed for this function (auxiliary battery charging) and was past of a kit? Or is it just a general purpose relay?

I also suspect that your aux battery isn't getting charged, as the relay isn't closing.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ran the test as you suggested this morning. When the 87 wire is disconnected the alt. warning light on the dash stays on when the motor is running. This suggests the problem is with the relay? test voltage across 85 and 86 terminals and got 4.40 V when running.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try disconnecting wire #87 instead, such that the relay operates but the aux battery is disconnected. If the ALT light now functions normally, then there's something wrong with the aux battery or its connections. If it still stays lit, then there's something wrong with the aux battery relay, its connections, or the alternator system. Measure the voltage from 86 to 85 and post here. Divide and conquer.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I wired up an auxiliary battery in a 74 westy per the diagram in this thread with the Bosch relay and 10-14 gauge wire.
When I do, the alternator warning light won't go out when the car is running. When I disconnect terminal 86 from the Bosch relay - it does go out...
I was just curious if anyone had any thoughts on what the problem might be.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Follow AeroMechs suggestion above. After much deliberation and help from him, I was going to go with his marie setup. However in the end, I ended up chickening out and going the cheap route with the Hella BD kit. Once aeromech set me straight on how it functions, installing the kit using Scott's German Supply instructions was a breeze. It's all in the diagram above.

I would have bought Scott's kit if at the time it was showing in stock, as I do think it's design is slightly better.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott posted this:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Find the wire that runs up front (K2) and gives you the alternator idiot light. Then just hook the 86 up to it as in the picture. I believe it will be a short (6 inch) blue wire near your firewall right front lower corner.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I have a 77 Westy and bought a Bus Depot relay kit inorder to hook up an AUX battery. After reading more and more, I decided to buy/use a heavier 12 gauge wire with two 30A inline fuses before my starter battery and AUX battery. I think I'm doing everything right, but I'm a little unsure where the wire goes after the 86 connection on the relay? The bus depot directions say it goes to the trigger wire on the alternator? Where is the trigger wire on the alternator? Do they mean Voltage regulator? What's the best way to connect to this wire?

Thanks for the help!
Anybody familar with the Bus Depots AUX relay? Still need a good answer for the question above.

Thanks!
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gratefulbuses
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 77 Westy and bought a Bus Depot relay kit inorder to hook up an AUX battery. After reading more and more, I decided to buy/use a heavier 12 gauge wire with two 30A inline fuses before my starter battery and AUX battery. I think I'm doing everything right, but I'm a little unsure where the wire goes after the 86 connection on the relay? The bus depot directions say it goes to the trigger wire on the alternator? Where is the trigger wire on the alternator? Do they mean Voltage regulator? What's the best way to connect to this wire?

Thanks for the help!
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's some info


Fuse block: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servle...sNum=11287
Switch: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servle...sNum=10597
Let me know if you need more info. West Marine also has several tech articles on the subject.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servle...nd-Battery
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1. Do I really need to run a heavier gauge wire than the one that came with the Hella relay kit from Bus Depot?

I don't know what they supplied you but bigger is better. You have to have a wire capable of supplying enough amps for all the components run from the aux battery and you have to assume that they would be all on at the same time.

2. Do I need an in line fuse (30A) before the main starter battery?

I'm guessing that you are planning on running a heavy gauge wire from the positive on the aux battery to the starter so you can use the aux battery for start if the start battery fails. 30 amp would be too small. The starter draws more than 30 amps I think so you would want something like a 80 amp. Fuses are for safety.

3. Where does that wire from the 86 on the relay go, alternator or voltage regulator, and what's the best why to connect it?

I've never wired an aux battery like you are doing. $29 doesn't get you much. I use hardware from West Marine and it costs closer to $150 but is a whole lot better. I would assume that the #86 wire is looking for 12 volts so when the generator starts charging it closes the relay and allows the aux battery to charge. What did the directions say?

4. What's the best option for connecting the wire to the positive side of the starter battery?

You could just run a wire to the big lug on the starter solenoid which is also connected to the positive side of the start battery.

5. Say I have a dead starter battery, do you have have to disconnect the AUX battery from the positive side before jumping starting the starter battery?

The way I install this system uses a battery switch which allows for OFF, ON, and COMBINE. So if the start battery goes dead you rotate the switch to COMBINE and then start the engine. In your case I'm guessing you plan to just use jumper cables from the aux battery to the start battery. If that's the case then no, you don't have to disconnect anything.
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