Vent window press device...

[junichi]

Thanks, Everett. One more- I see the tips for safari seals and the BBT seal. The BBT is tough and expensive to get in Canada. For Safari seals, someone has linked a set of inner seals for original safari windows. I see there are also safari seals for aftermarket safari windows. Just confirming- the seal that will fit an original vent window is an original safari inner seal, not an inner seal for aftermarket safaris?

EDIT: CIP already responded and they have a similar product from C&C- any experience with these?

https://www.cip1.ca/vwc-211-837-271-pr/
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Sold: 1985 Transporter Doka,1978 Westfalia, 1975 bay x 2, 1986 syncro vanagon, 1965 beetle, 1980 vanagon, 1967 deluxe bus, 1988 golf

[EverettB]

It just sits in there with no attachment.

Yes, just held in by the glass and seal
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[junichi]

Is the swoosh riveted in or something? Or is it just held in place by the glass and seal?
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1964 Kombi- http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=640048
Sold: 1985 Transporter Doka,1978 Westfalia, 1975 bay x 2, 1986 syncro vanagon, 1965 beetle, 1980 vanagon, 1967 deluxe bus, 1988 golf

[OldmanVw]

[Bulli Klinik]

Good info, Lind.
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[Lind]

I use the BBT formed seals, and I can install them by hand without the press. They really make the job easy and fit great. They are a total game-changer for this job.
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[BulliBill]

The L & R side wooden jigs that I built to press the glass and rubber seals into Split-Bus vent window metal frames will not hold Beetle vent window frames if that is what you mean. But I imagine that you could use the basic process that I described above to make a similar wooden frames to then press the Beetle glass into Beetle metal vent window frames.

If you are asking if the Safari window rubber "seals" could be used in the pressing process, I haven't yet needed to do this on Beetle vent window frames, but I don't see why those seals wouldn't work on Beetle vent window frames with a properly made wooden jig made to the shape of their vent frames.

Bill Bowman
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I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[aviator8]

[BulliBill]

I'm delighted to help and answer your question. I was advised by Mike at Bulli Klinik from Colorado that he had good luck using the rubber "U" channel seal used to install Safari window glass into Safari window frames ( http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211845123B ). It does have a little beveled edge so if you're absolutely into Concours-correct (and I kinda am), you'll want to trim that off but I could live with it. I think that beveled edge is so small and helps to shed water easier so I left it on, except that I trimmed the beveled flange only behind/under the vent window latch which will become self-explanatory when you get to that point I just trimmed off that inch or two inches of that flanged edge only under the vent latch and left the flanges everywhere else. It even worked fine with the rain "swooshes" so you might want to consider using the Safari windshield rubber or re-look at the pictures in my DC build thread to see what I'm explaining. By the way, for a rubber to frame lubricant while pressing together, I HIGHLY recommend the slippery and water-soluble stuff I used from your local Home Depot that I show in my build thread. Sure makes installing glass on an automobile a breeze, and easy clean-up with a wet rag too!

I gave up decades ago trying to use that wide thick sheet stuff from West Coast Metric. To thick to crush the glass and that rubber into that vent window frame, and even if you could get it to start it'll probably pop back out. Try the Safari window Rubber seal and it fits snug as a bug! Have fun!

Bill Bowman
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[Schwing]

Bill -
I would like to bring this thread back from the dead. What did you use between the vent window frame and the glass? I bought the roll from Westcoast metric and I feel like its entirely too thick. Did you go the black 3m tape route? That seems enticing.

I already made my jig and I am ready to go any night this week.
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Herman the oval
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=388895

[BulliBill]

So as mentioned already, I decided to build my own set of left and right side wooden window press jigs. I took a few photos but not enough to show the entire construction process, but you'll get the idea. Perhaps this might help motivate a few of you into creating your own jigs to make this task less frustrating.

I had previously borrowed an old well-used wooden jig built long ago by an old friend. You'll see it in one of the later photos or being used in action in the build thread for my '59 DC. To see the entire '59 DC build thread just go to:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=545000&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

...and to see the press operation of the vent windows for that particular '59 DC build go to page 35 by clicking here;

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...;start=680

My buddy did some extra modifications with a router so that his press could be used to mount both Left and right sides with one jig (with removal of the handle on the vent window latch). I decided to build a pair of left and right side jigs so that once installed, the latches did not need to be disassembled/removed to press the glass in.

So off to my local Home Depot I went. I bought a 2' by 4' small sheet of 3/4" thick plywood, a small bottle of Elmers wood glue and some 1 1/4" drywall screws. I cut the 2' by 4' sheet down into four 2' by 10" wide pieces. Then I used a fairly unmolested vent window assembly and gently clamped it to the plywood (we don't want it to shift while tracing) to carefully trace the outer outline onto two of the four sheets.

clamped:

tracing the outline:

tracing the channel for the post:

One my lines were traced, I carefully used a jigsaw with a "fine" blade to cut out the basic shape of the vent window. I used a wood chisel to carve a 1/2" wide and 1/2" deep channel into the plywood where the lower threaded shaft of the frame would lie (a router would have been nice here, I don't own one, but the wood chisel worked fine). After test fitting my frame into my cut wooden jig and making sure there was a snug fit (make sure to allow just enough room for cushy felt material to be inserted later to protect the paint when pressing). Notice below that the upper edge of the vent window frame drops down into the 3/4" thickness of the upper plywood. We'll fix that later and provide room for the "Nike swoosh"/rain deflector plates to lie during the pressing operation.

checking the fit:

...then I clamped the lower uncut 2' by 10" sheet to the upper 2' by 10" sheet with the vent window shape cut into it. No glue or screws yet! Just clamps. I used the vent window to help locate the spot that I would need to drill out a elongated hole so that the short metal upper pivot arm of the vent window frame could then protrude down into the hole in the lower backing plywood sheet. I marked it and drilled it out and used a Dremel tool with a tiny wood carving bit to clean things up. Then I trial fit the vent window again to double-check for fit. All was good!

the drilled-out elongated hole for the upper pivot:

No photos taken here, but now I could smear oodles of wood glue between the mating surfaces between the two 3/4" plywood sheets and press them together. I also used the drywall screws liberally to help squish the two sheets together while the glue was drying. The screws stay in also. Let dry.

Below is a shot of both of my new still unfinished jigs (left and right sides) along with the borrowed left/right jig. You can see the hole bored into the borrowed jig so that you can take off the vent wing fastener handle , insert its' post into the hole and therefore use it for either side.

Now to allow the vent window frame/glass to "float" level when in the 3/4" thick upper jig and to allow space for the "swoosh", I used some various length scrap strips of wood about 3/16" thick and cut to about 3/8" wide (the depth of the metal vent frame). I cut/trimmed them and then wood glued them into place in various locations to support the frame but not get in the way of the "swoosh".

strips of 3/16" wood help float and level the assembly in the jig:

hard to see, but perhaps you can see that the "swoosh" fits into the frame and the strips glued to the jig do not interfere with either the earlier or later versions of the "swoosh":

Eventually I will cover all the paint-to wood contact surfaces with thick felt for paint protection:

As seen in my '59 DC build thread, I bought and used a pair of plumbers pipe-clamp sets and pipe to evenly press the window glass into the metal vent window frame. Note that I will use 13" long strip of wood against the exposed glass edge and then two pipe clamps to crank the glass evenly and firmly into place!

I like that I have made a pair of left and right side jigs instead of one L/R jig so that I don't have to disassemble the mounted vent latches while in the presses, and that two windows can be done at the same time. A little light finish sanding and a coat of protective stain and they look pretty nice too. A great addition to the tool collection of any Split-Bus owner!

I hope that this helps someone out! This homebuilt tool sure makes doing this procedure a lot more fun...

Bill Bowman
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[Bulli Klinik]

Thanks for confirming. I've been preaching safari seals in the vent wings for years. Effortless and I think that they look better.
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PM me about quality metal-work on your vehicle.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[BulliBill]

See the middle of page 2 of this thread for discussion of the side pop-out window rubber versus the Safari window rubber (deeper, better) suggested by "Buliklinik". I recently used the Safari window seal on the vent window for my 1959 Double-Cab restoration and it worked awesome with the added benefit of no trimming of the swoosh area! I borrowed a buddies wooden pressing jig. I have since built my own press jigs for the left and right windows. Gotta get my that borrowed jig back to my buddy!

Bill
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[EDragnDean]

Has anyone used a Pop Out glass to frame seal?


Link

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70 BusClick to view image

[earlywesty]

Just go to an actual glass shop and get some rubber glass tape; it's made for these applications. It comes in different thicknesses. I just did it with mine, the job was easy as could be.

Edit: and they gave me the tape, enough for two buses, for free. Have them order you a roll and have enough for all your buses for life!

[VirtuallyReal]

[Spiderwebb]

The 1st vent window went together easily (latch and swoosh upwards) after I took my time.

The other one wasn't sitting flat enough for me due to the swoosh (I did make a hole so the latch would clear).

I took apart the wood press and flipped it for the other vent window build...

all went together fine

I did learn that leaving the clamps tight overnight is important as my 1st attempt wasn't as I left it the day before. After that I used a hot air gun on low to help the glue cure and didn't take it out of the jig for 2 days.

[crofty]

[kirbyland]

do you have to make a jig for both R/L sides? Seems the latch would cause issues?-

[matthew henricks]

This is how i trim under the swoosh. Has worked well for the 4 buses i have restored.

- Take a #11 x-acto knife blade. A brand new, sharp one.
- Heat the tip with a torch and bend over 90 degrees the tip about 1/16" back.
- Got to do this quick so you do not dull the tip with the flame and you need as tight of a bend as close to 90 degrees as you can. You are annealing the metal in order to bend it which also means the blade will not last as long.
- Put the blade in a x-acto holder and use it to get down behind the swoosh and trim the rubber.

I have also thought about trying it with the #9 retractable blade as it is smaller.

Works well. You have to get used to manipulating the handle so the blade stays perpendicular to the class and the cutting edge stays in line with the edge of the frame. You also have to be careful not to scratch the glass getting the tool in and out and not remove paint from the frame or swoosh while you are working in there. Usually takes about 5 minutes to finish the job and usually pretty clean cut.

I would post a picture if i had one....

No to find someone local who has a home made press as i have a latch that needs replacing.....