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aquaboxa Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2009 Posts: 96 Location: Upstate NY
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Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 6:43 am Post subject: |
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Perhaps this will change your mind...
I'd like to pick this up and keep it in the garage "just in case". Alas, these days we don't get to spend $700 just in case
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=909443 _________________ '89 Vanagon Bluestar
a.k.a. "The Bermuda Rectangle" |
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dredward Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2007 Posts: 1081
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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 10:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Jon_slider wrote: |
> If you want hassle free (relatively) CA smog test.. buy KEP 2.2 kit with the CARB EO and install exaclty whats on the parts list.
This is true, if you plan to try and get a CARB referee to give you a bar code sticker, and that sticker means ANY smog shop will smog your van.
However, I have a KEP conversion, but the CARB referee told me to just take the van to a smog shop as is (I know, get real, but thats what happened). I was refused a bar code sticker.
So I went to a smog shop in Santa Cruz, CA, and got smogged, problem solved for the next 2 years.
I understand the Alameda ref is better educated on subaru installs, and I agree that it would be better to have the bar code sticker. Next time I need a smog inspection, if I cant find a shop to pass me without it, I will go to the trouble of trying to convice a CARB Referee to give me the bar code sticker..
Point being, I can pass smog without a CARB Sticker, which means I could have had a 2.5 subaru instead of a 2.2...
in my experience, smog shops dont care about the Kennedy Executive Order, referees might, but smog shops dont.
It IS true however, that many smog shops will refuse to smog a van if I tell them I have a subaru motor installed, even though its coved by executive order.
Moral of the story, if you go Kennedy compliant, you do it because you plan to convince a referee to give you a bar code sticker. OTOH, if you can find a shop to smog you without mentioning the engine change, then it matters not at all what motor, or what kit, you install.. Just my experience and opinion. |
My 1.8t has a bar sticker Go to http://www.stephansautohaus.com/VWVANAGONDIVISION.aspx Check the specs and info. If you can do it yer self you'll save alot of $. I got my harness, Mounts, clutch assembly, and other hard parts through Stephan. He walked me through the process and was very helpful. He pioneered this swap so he the one to ask details. I was gona go aba with a super charger(neuspeed) or with a g60 carrado with after market charger by BBM. I am soooo glad i went this route. I can take any hill, pass, or grade like i am driveing a car. No other swap has this powere thats legal in Cali. withjust a chip tune i have over 200hp and 250lbs of torque(@1900 rpm). Withe a stg3 from apr this motor will produce over 300hp and 350lbs of torque with just bolt ons and a tune..... |
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dredward Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2007 Posts: 1081
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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 10:20 pm Post subject: Re: Help Me Decide - Repair Wasserboxer, Subaru, Zetec? |
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| jyl wrote: |
Hi guys. I'm asking for help in deciding how to deal with two blown head gaskets on my '88 Westy. Repair the wasserboxer, or use opportunity to install a Subaru engine?
The gaskets blew right before our family camping trip, arrgh. We crammed everyone in the Prius and went camping anyway. So the van is sitting back in the repair shop in Portland OR, waiting for my decision. And I'm camping in Canada - this is my one night of the trip with Internet access (and showers) - trying to make a decision.
I know there is a ton of info out there that I can tap if I decide on the Subaru transplant. I'm really more asking for help in thinking through the realistic pros and cons of each option.
So, the basics. Van is manual, 138K miles. PO's records show heads done once before. Engine was running nicely, had just had coolant flushed and changed oil in preparation for this trip. Wife is driving on some errand, oil light comes on, she starts leaving a trail of white something (steam? I wasn't there), coolant light comes on, she pulls over, and eventually van gets towed. (I know, why didn't she pull over immediately when the oil light went on . . . well, that's water under the bridge.)
My goal - go get the van running again, reliable for the long run and long trips. I have to keep the A/C. Need to keep the cost down too. Would be nice not to lose the whole camping season. I live in Oregon so fewer smog worries, but I'd like the van to remain smoggable in California in case I ever move back. Wife says she would like more power, I'm more interested in reliability.
Option 1 - Fix wasserboxer:
Mechanic has not started pulling anything apart, so don't know if heads are reusable, or if damage was done to bottom end. He tells me replacing heads and head gaskets is roughly a $2500 job if rest of motor isn't touched. So, I can write a check and be back on the road in a couple weeks. I admit that needing new heads twice in 138K miles isn't increasing my faith in this engine.
Option 2 - Subaru transplant:
I have a flat driveway to work in and a tiny garage to store stuff in, and tools, floor jack, jackstands, etc. I've never worked on the van before, but can read/follow instructions. I have dropped and re-installed the engine in my 911 before, so have some sense of how to pull a rear-mounted boxer motor. But minimal ability to "fabricate" anything - no welder, etc. I gather that a Subaru 2.2L with 70-100K miles including ECU and harness might cost $1000-2000. I am reading the Kennedy and SmallCar sites and am thinking I should budget $2500 for conversion parts, and another $500 for stuff like engine stand, engine hoist, rental pickup truck (to go get the engine), etc. Not sure how many man-hours to plan on - I gather the harness is the most time-consuming part, and next is replacing the Subaru timing belt and various sensors and seals as a precaution - maybe figure 80-100 hours of work to do a transplant?
What do you guys think? What considerations am I missing, what info do I have wrong? Anyone done a Subaru transplant and regretted it, or been unpleasantly surprised at the work involved? Should I have more faith in the wasserboxer? |
Go 1.8t, you won't regret it. I did mine at home, saveing me alot of $. It is cheaper then a GoWesty option, more depenable, and very tunable for more power. |
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connorsvw2 Samba Member

Joined: August 16, 2008 Posts: 361 Location: Denver, CO
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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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JLP engines, aka Jake Lake/Ken Morgan? I'd review this site carefully before going that route if I were you.
I met with him in 2002 and visited his shop in Denver and considered his engine before going with the Subie 2.5 back in 2003. Best Vanagon decision I have made to date, it seems, based upon the experiences of others. |
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izzydog Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2005 Posts: 666
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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If I were doing a conversion right now (I did mine almost 3 years ago) I would find a list of local refs and GO TALK TO THEM. Ask them what they want to see. They are not boogeymen. They have a job to do and most will be willing to tell you exactly what they want to see. You are rolling the dice if you do anything else at this stage in the game.
The conversion scene in California is a moving target. What one ref wants to see another won't even consider. Without knowing what a ref wants to see, you could be throwing thousands of dollars down the drain.
I did mine with no KEP stuff whatsoever. Passed no problem. The ref that did mine (Bob in Alameda) is gone - retired. That door has closed. Things are changing.
If you put a 2.5 in there and magically make it through smog, you will have to do the same thing again in 2 years. A lot can change in two years at your local smog shop. Unless your rich uncle happens to own a gas station and can ignore the fact that you have a Subaru engine on board, don't count on someone else doing that as well. You could find a backwater station somewhere and just roll in and try it but you may have to try and fail several places before you find someone that doesn't look at your engine carefully. All your failed tests will go to Sacramento and you might get flagged somehow. If you go this route have the stations do a "test only". That way you stay out of the system.
If you really want a 2.5, you can do it the "Warren Chapman" way. Put a 2.2 with a KEP kit in there and then throw a 2.5 in there two years later and use any mount, muffler etc that your budget allows. A smog tech is a lot less likely to know the difference between a 2.2 and a 2.5 vs. a 2.2 and a WBX.
Whatever you do, do it soon -- before California changes the rules again.
Find a ref and work with them. They are mostly good guys just trying to do their jobs. You may not agree with them, but they are not out to screw you in some personal way. The chuckleheads in Sacramento... now that's another story! |
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j_dirge Samba Member

Joined: August 08, 2007 Posts: 4641 Location: Twain Harte, CA
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Jon_slider wrote: |
| Just my experience and opinion. |
Fair enough.. but you roll the dice every 2 yrs.
The KEP EO *should* only require a visit to the smog tech.. If the smog tech refuses to punch up the EO info, then call CARB on the smog tech.
Its his job to check the EO.. just as it his job to check the apprpriate EO on cats.
My opinion, not that its worth much, is that if we force THEM to follow thier own rules.. then we get a more clear delineation/interpretation of the rules for OUR use.
Double edged sword though.
Right now its as clear as mud.
Check your PM..
I am not above "interpreting" these rules to my own satisfaction.
Afterall.. thats the American way!  _________________ -89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.
-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5
| danfromsyr wrote: |
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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Jon_slider Samba Member

Joined: April 11, 2007 Posts: 5091 Location: Santa Cruz, Crowdifornia
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:50 am Post subject: |
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> If you want hassle free (relatively) CA smog test.. buy KEP 2.2 kit with the CARB EO and install exaclty whats on the parts list.
This is true, if you plan to try and get a CARB referee to give you a bar code sticker, and that sticker means ANY smog shop will smog your van.
However, I have a KEP conversion, but the CARB referee told me to just take the van to a smog shop as is (I know, get real, but thats what happened). I was refused a bar code sticker.
So I went to a smog shop in Santa Cruz, CA, and got smogged, problem solved for the next 2 years.
I understand the Alameda ref is better educated on subaru installs, and I agree that it would be better to have the bar code sticker. Next time I need a smog inspection, if I cant find a shop to pass me without it, I will go to the trouble of trying to convice a CARB Referee to give me the bar code sticker..
Point being, I can pass smog without a CARB Sticker, which means I could have had a 2.5 subaru instead of a 2.2...
in my experience, smog shops dont care about the Kennedy Executive Order, referees might, but smog shops dont.
It IS true however, that many smog shops will refuse to smog a van if I tell them I have a subaru motor installed, even though its coved by executive order.
Moral of the story, if you go Kennedy compliant, you do it because you plan to convince a referee to give you a bar code sticker. OTOH, if you can find a shop to smog you without mentioning the engine change, then it matters not at all what motor, or what kit, you install.. Just my experience and opinion. |
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PDXWesty Samba Member

Joined: April 11, 2006 Posts: 6344 Location: Portland OR
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:49 am Post subject: |
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Has anyone heard an update from the OP? I wonder what he decided to do. _________________ 89 Westy 2.1 Auto |
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j_dirge Samba Member

Joined: August 08, 2007 Posts: 4641 Location: Twain Harte, CA
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:33 am Post subject: |
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| Tomudell wrote: |
| Ok, after much reading the past day and talking to my aunts ex again I have decided to do the subi conversion instead of the rebuild. I plan to intall it my self to keep the cost down. I am still debating to buy the KEP or the small car, any thoughts? |
If you want hassle free (relatively) CA smog test.. buy KEP 2.2 kit with the CARB EO and install exaclty whats on the parts list.
The Smallcar kit will likely be rejected by a smog tech and you will have to see the BAR ref.
The BAR ref may or may not pass you depending on what you used.. particularly related to exhaust up to the CO sensor and the now required CARB EO catalytic converter.
Check to see if the KEP kit currently includes the CARB EO cat for the 2.2.
If not.. add one to your parts list.
Do NOT pay for a non-CARB EO cat if you plan on registering in CA. _________________ -89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.
-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5
| danfromsyr wrote: |
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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Jon_slider Samba Member

Joined: April 11, 2007 Posts: 5091 Location: Santa Cruz, Crowdifornia
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:18 am Post subject: Go with a 2.5 subie, more power more better |
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> I think if I were to go the Bostig route I'd just spend some time finding an acommodating/lax shop. After that, how big a risk is it?
I agree, but by that logic, the 2.5 subie is a better choice, it has a LOT more power than a Bostig Zetec.
And, I dont think a shop that sniffs my 2.2 subie powered Syncro Westy is doing anything immoral. After all, the van has no more emissions than it did with a Waterboxer.
And fwiw, I was denied a Sticker by CARB Referee in San Jose. So I found a smog shop to sniff the tailpipe and passed.
Moral of the story, if you cant have a CARB sticker anyway, why choose a 130 horsepower Bostig or 2.2 Subie, when you could have a 165 horsepower Subie 2.5.
Its all about the horsepower, for me. |
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ftp2leta Samba Member

Joined: October 11, 2004 Posts: 3271 Location: Montreal
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Tomudell Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2009 Posts: 16 Location: Anaheim, CA
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:07 pm Post subject: |
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| Ok, after much reading the past day and talking to my aunts ex again I have decided to do the subi conversion instead of the rebuild. I plan to intall it my self to keep the cost down. I am still debating to buy the KEP or the small car, any thoughts? |
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randywebb Samba Member

Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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re: "lose 1 inch on mine"
what engine IS that?
Last edited by randywebb on Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:15 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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ccisco Samba Member
Joined: August 28, 2008 Posts: 212 Location: eugene
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:29 pm Post subject: conversion |
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I'm glad that this thread has re-started, because I'm considering doing a conversion on my Westy. I've been checking prices, and it seems to me, even with shipping the wiring harness to Canada to get it done, the Subie conversion is a lot cheaper. I've my math is correct, buying the essential items from KEP runs about 1200 dollars, then the harness is about 600 to have done. That's $1900, and there's just a ton of 1990-95 (the non-interference engines) Legacys for 500-900 to get the engine, harness, computer etc. Which would bring the total price to about 2500-2800. Does that sound about right to those who have done this, or am I totally off? If so, that puts it in the range of a cheap rebuild on a Waterboxer...  |
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ftp2leta Samba Member

Joined: October 11, 2004 Posts: 3271 Location: Montreal
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 6:41 pm Post subject: Re: No Votes For Fixing The Wasserboxer? |
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| Quote: |
if it breaks down somewhere, who can fix a conversion?
- who will be willing to try and fix one?? |
Who will fix the stock engine? Modern engine have OBD2, easy to find any problem.
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| which conversions do not reduce the ground clearance or ramp angle in the rear?- gravel roads have low clearance sometimes too... |
You loose 1 in on mine. Ramp angle?
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| which conversions do not require a bump in the luggage compartment for clearance? |
Mine again. _________________ Working with rust, grease, dirt and dust is a sad truth.
------------------------------------------------------
FI part for sale: http://www.benplace.com/parts_sale1.htm
My site: http://www.benplace.com/vw2.htm
Subi conversion: http://www.benplace.com/vanaru_eng.htm
Youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/ftp2leta |
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randywebb Samba Member

Joined: February 15, 2005 Posts: 3815 Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:42 pm Post subject: Re: No Votes For Fixing The Wasserboxer? |
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| jyl wrote: |
| Hmm, I notice I'm not seeing any votes or arguments for fixing my existing wasserboxer. |
isn't that the clear inexpensive choice?
if it breaks down somewhere, who can fix a conversion?
- who will be willing to try and fix one??
which conversions do not reduce the ground clearance or ramp angle in the rear?
- gravel roads have low clearance sometimes too...
which conversions do not require a bump in the luggage compartment for clearance?
I do not know the answers to the above, but I would sure find out beforehand.
I would also think about how long it will be before you can put some sort of electric/hybrid drive into the vehicle. If you drive 5k or 10k a year, you will have a pretty nice cushion to wait for such modifications to mature. |
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morymob Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2007 Posts: 4683 Location: east-tn
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:16 am Post subject: |
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| levi wrote: |
| 240Gordy wrote: |
| buckturgidson wrote: |
Ok it's been a late night for me but I'll toss out a couple things.
Levi , why would you feel safer spending on a re-build of a 1.9 instead of a 2.1 ? |
cuz maybe the rods won't break and punch a hole in the case? |
Yeah. The 2.1 are known for that with just a little more miles on them than what you've already got. Not so with the 1.9, in fact my last 1.9 had about 250,000 on the original engine and was still running strong. Man I hated getting rid of that one. |
The 2.1 with 1.9 rods or updated to newer 3/8 bolts won't break rods,it's the crappy stretch bolts vw started using that causes the problems. After making some changes to the wbx engine, i've been running wbx's since '93, many miles and with a much better reliability record than the brand x's i also have owned,current CRV wouldn't start in the 7-degree weather a few days ago but the syncro fired right up. Learned on my 1st wbx that u do it right or do it over until it is right. How can you improve if u don't have problems, not counting regular wear items=belts shoes,pads etc which u replace on all?? |
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Tomudell Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2009 Posts: 16 Location: Anaheim, CA
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 1:01 am Post subject: |
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| Just a reply and my vote. I have also faced the pro's and cons cause I live in CA. I had my heart set on a 2.5 sub conversion but it is not approved in CA, only the 2.2. I was going to go that route until I found out it was going to have to be an OBDI version engine. I talked to my aunts ex boyfriend who owns a shop and worked on sub for the past 30 years and he said he would not touch the 2.5 wither way in his opinion those are all crap. FYI the years the 2.5 were the worst is any DOHC most likely 98 and earlier. Legacy 2000 - 2002, Impreza 99- 2002 and Forester 99-2002. If you stay away from those years and do a 2003 or newer you should be ok, but no guarantee or stick with a 2.2. If I were out of CA I would do the 2.5 with a newer 2.5 or better yet do the 2.0 turbo. Pro's and cons are also if you want to keep your A/C you have to get new a/c hoses made and for ground clearance would need to get the oil pan reduced. After much debate with my self I decided to go with a rebuilt engine from JLP www.jlpengines.com which will be a 2.3 115hp, with over 148 lb ft of torque. Jake there was a pleasure to talk with they have done much to their rebuilds to make them a much better engine at a good price. I for 1 wish that CA was not such a chicken shit or I would have done the subie conversion with a newer 2.5 or 2.0 turbo. Word to the wise, if you do stay there is anyone that does stay with the vw engine you might consider buying the subaru coolant conditioner as they call it (i think it is just a fancy stop leak but anyway) that is what they use in there 2.5's, I tried it in my 2.1 when I first got the leaky head gasket and it helped seal it, matter a fact I have not seen a leak since I added it. I know the problem is there so now was the time for me to make my decision to do the swap or rebuilt. Any thoughts on this conditioner, what could be the pro's and con's of using it the way subaru does in my new engine? or am y asking for problems cause it could cause my cooling system to get clogged up? any thoughts? |
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j_dirge Samba Member

Joined: August 08, 2007 Posts: 4641 Location: Twain Harte, CA
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Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 11:57 am Post subject: |
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| Steelhead wrote: |
I think if I were to go the Bostig route I'd just spend some time finding an acommodating/lax shop. After that, how big a risk is it?
Flamesuit on. |
Shops that flaunt the rules face big fines and possible loss of the license to do smog test.
See Bostig's earlier link where you can alos find a list of shops that have been fined or licenses yanked.
Add to this that Vanagons are HEPers (High Emitting Profile) and they ususally have to go to Smog Test Only stations.
These outfits make much of thier total income on smog checks.
Also.. hurts resale.
I'd not be likely to buy a Vanagon unless I KNEW it could pass smog legitimately.
If I recall correctly, there was an SVX Vanagon for sale up near Vacaville somwhere about a yr ago. Owner couldn't get it thru smog.
Worth nearly zero dollars in CA. I guess you could plan to sell out of state if you ever got busted?
Dunno.. Not a risk I'm willing to take if there are other proven alternatives. _________________ -89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.
-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5
| danfromsyr wrote: |
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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Steelhead Samba Member

Joined: February 25, 2007 Posts: 1791 Location: Kentfield, CA
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Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 10:57 am Post subject: |
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| bostig wrote: |
| ..... $1500 more in parts that do virtually nothing for you.... |
$1500 would go a heckuv a long way to getting through a test-only smog shop. That's a lot of grease! Even spread out over 6 years ($500 per two-year period) would probably do the trick just fine.
While standards have certainly tightened up in CA, I'm pretty sure there are plenty of shops in the more urban environments that would simply stick the sniffer in your exhaust pipe and pass you based on the emmissions output. Or am I missing something? I mean, if the smog tester treats it as a stock engine, won't it pass? Many shops seem to be willing to do a test run w/o registering the vehicle in the system (there's a work-around to trick the system..can't remember what exactly), at which point they could let you know if there are any red flags.
As far as the visual inspection goes...I have an old Jeep with shiny, non-compliant edelbrock stuff all over its engine and I would just take it to the smog shop in downtown SF...the visual inspection was cursory at best.
I think if I were to go the Bostig route I'd just spend some time finding an acommodating/lax shop. After that, how big a risk is it?
Flamesuit on. _________________ '77 Bay Window / '89 Caratsburg (aka. the Stormtrooper) |
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