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Oil Switch
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lobsterguy
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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2025 4:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

lobsterguy wrote:
So I’m a little late getting back to this as I just got back from school. The advice about using a tap on the low pressure switch (lower on the engine block) seemed to work. I now have the new low pressure switch in. My trouble now comes with the replacement for the high pressure switch (around the pulleys). The old one came out pretty easily with a 24mm socket, but is much larger than the 10Mx1.0 sensor I got to replace it. The old sensor also has an additional nut on it. Since my oil warning lights always came at high rpm, which I think means it was a problem with the low pressure sensor, I was thinking of possibly just putting the old high pressure sensor back in. This wasn’t my plan originally, and I wanted to replace both sensors for peace of mind, but I’m wondering if it’s worth the hassle to find a replacement part for the high pressure switch that is the same size as the old one. Thanks
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Well I think I answered my own question. It looks like I took out a part that was part of the block itself Laughing . I’m working on getting the two pieces unstuck but it looks like the replacement part I got will work after all
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lobsterguy
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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2025 3:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

So I’m a little late getting back to this as I just got back from school. The advice about using a tap on the low pressure switch (lower on the engine block) seemed to work. I now have the new low pressure switch in. My trouble now comes with the replacement for the high pressure switch (around the pulleys). The old one came out pretty easily with a 24mm socket, but is much larger than the 10Mx1.0 sensor I got to replace it. The old sensor also has an additional nut on it. Since my oil warning lights always came at high rpm, which I think means it was a problem with the low pressure sensor, I was thinking of possibly just putting the old high pressure sensor back in. This wasn’t my plan originally, and I wanted to replace both sensors for peace of mind, but I’m wondering if it’s worth the hassle to find a replacement part for the high pressure switch that is the same size as the old one. Thanks
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2025 8:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

DanHoug wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Looks like you might have an insert in the hole that might be messed up. Sad Both switches were 10mm tapered pipe thread originally.


i'm pretty sure the oil switch ports are M10x1.0 straight thread with a sealing washer required between the sensor body and the block. while a 1/8-27 NPT will fit and seal, i like to use a male M10 > female 1/8 NPT adapter to keep the threads clean.


I am sure you are right, I was thinking the Type 4 engines that use 10x1 tapered threads.
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jlrftype7
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2025 2:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Drill-Tool-Rethread...4&th=1


Re-threading tap above ^^^^. Hex drive on the end, so you can use a socket to get it into your threads versus worrying about a tap wrench or a square drive socket that fits the end of a regular tap.
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Altoona
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2025 2:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

DanHoug wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Looks like you might have an insert in the hole that might be messed up. Sad Both switches were 10mm tapered pipe thread originally.


i'm pretty sure the oil switch ports are M10x1.0 straight thread with a sealing washer required between the sensor body and the block. while a 1/8-27 NPT will fit and seal, i like to use a male M10 > female 1/8 NPT adapter to keep the threads clean.


Yep, definitely straight threads. I would just run a tap through it to clean it up. Maybe coat it in grease to collect any chips that pop off.
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dabaron
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2025 8:55 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

lobsterguy wrote:
Yes. The threads are the same gauge as well. This was my original thinking, so I tried to put the old OP back in the same hole it just came out of, but it didn’t want to fit either


well it MUST fit... probably an issue of the janky location and not getting it squared to the opening.

i like to turn the threads the opposite direction a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, you will feel it "engage" and then you can turn it the proper way to install...

are you sure you are turning it the proper direction Embarassed
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2025 7:05 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Looks like you might have an insert in the hole that might be messed up. Sad Both switches were 10mm tapered pipe thread originally.


i'm pretty sure the oil switch ports are M10x1.0 straight thread with a sealing washer required between the sensor body and the block. while a 1/8-27 NPT will fit and seal, i like to use a male M10 > female 1/8 NPT adapter to keep the threads clean.
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ZsZ
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 10:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

Read this:

https://brickwerks.co.uk/blog/vw-t3-oil-pressure-switches/
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 7:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

Looks like you might have an insert in the hole that might be messed up. Sad Both switches were 10mm tapered pipe thread originally.
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lobsterguy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 2:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

Altoona wrote:
dabaron wrote:
compare the old to the new. are they the same size tapered thread?


Shouldn't be a tapered thread. Stock is 10x1.0 but 1/8" pipe thread is a real close fit so sometimes people shove the wrong switch in there.


What would be the best recourse if the old OP was 1/8” pipe thread. I’m thinking this might be the case, since removing the old OP required a socket larger than 24mm
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 2:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

dabaron wrote:
compare the old to the new. are they the same size tapered thread?


Shouldn't be a tapered thread. Stock is 10x1.0 but 1/8" pipe thread is a real close fit so sometimes people shove the wrong switch in there.
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lobsterguy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 11:15 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

Yes. The threads are the same gauge as well. This was my original thinking, so I tried to put the old OP back in the same hole it just came out of, but it didn’t want to fit either
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dabaron
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 11:11 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

compare the old to the new. are they the same size tapered thread?
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lobsterguy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 11:00 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

I couldn’t find anything similar to my current problem so I figured I’d bring back this thread for the time being. I am having similar oil light troubles (on my 2.1) so I figured I should start with replacing the sensors. I managed to get the old low OP switch off after some nudging around (bolt hex size was something truly wonky). Now, when I have tried to install the gowesty replacement, the new OP switch does not want to screw back in. I’ve cleaned the threads of each (although maybe not thoroughly enough) so I’m thinking I might have damaged the female side threads. I attached a photo to this reply. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks
Jasper

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Testing the OP switches is very easy with a test lamp and the engine running and then off. Watch out for the pulleys and belts! Make sure the connection at the plug in the engine compartment is clean too. Even some new OP switches are of poor quality. Find the German ones (NAPA) rather than the China made parts.

If the warning lamp/buzzer comes on intermittently..and is not repeatable...it may be your high OP switch or the wiring back at the engine.

You can check your oil pressure to be sure.

With a worn engine..the low oil pressure problem will be repeatable.

Makes sense to replace the pressure relief spring too. They are getting tired after all these years too. Part number 021.115.421B. Cost is about $5

You can replace the high OP switch that lives beside the crank pulley at the rear of the engine by removing the belts and using a "plummers sleeve socket wrench" from Home Depot if you don't have a regular deep socket, to remove and install a new switch.
Do the pressure relief spring too..you will find the old one is 2-3mm too short and relaxed after over twenty years of operation.
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charlie1volksnut
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found this thread very helpful. Thanks, to all who contributed. This is part of what makes The Samba so fantastic.

Randywebb, great information!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 9:58 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

Mconant wrote:

There are three different switches at Autozone. They seem to have different BAR ratings.

0.3 BAR Brown

1.4 BAR. Black

0.9 BAR/ Gray



Hate to be too negative, but in this modern world it's a good idea to learn what "BAR" means.
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Zero419
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stay away from 20W50 with my stock rebuild as per tencent.
But I always used it in my worn motor.

I use 10-40 now.
The lifters quit much quicker with 10-40

From what I have read, in more cases then not, its your motor, not your oil pressure warning system.

Get a gauge on that sucker and go from there.
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GMByers
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:36 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Switch Reply with quote

[quote="Mconant"]The oil pressure light comes on randomly when i drive, even though I just put in new oil

Since you just put in new oil, did you put in 20W50?

Gary
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:06 am    Post subject: Re: oil high pressure sensor Reply with quote

Mconant wrote:
Is the oil high pressure switch replaceable?


yes, both low OP and HI Op switches just screw into case.

the are both replaceable.
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