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Ride Quality of lowered Type-3's
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soopaman
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's settled then! I plan on lowering the car this weekend if time permits. I repost with pics once it's all done. Thanks for all the respones.
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marchi
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My car has been this ride highth since the mid 90's when it was first built, when i installed the narrow control arms i changed all balls and tie rods. Friend at the alingment place looked at them after he did the alingment and thought i shouldnt have changed them as they looked fine. Only diff is tire size.
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2slow
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a -69 Squareback, lowered front 3 nothches and rear 2 notches!
Have short Spax Shocks that are adjustable stiffness!
Ride quality is firm but not uncomfortable!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


link to page where I ordered my shocks!
Did choose very short shocks
http://www.machine7.com/section.php?xSec=2847
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Brian Mathe
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

soopaman wrote:
marchi wrote:
i lowered my front 3 and left the old shocks on, they are broke in enough not to bottom out but yet not to stiff, put the new ones on back where all the weight goes.

I planned on trying 3 front and 2 rear, then I came across information concerning premature ball joint and bearing wear attributed to lowering the suspension using this method. How true is that information? Thanks again folks, this is very informative.

This is true information to some extent. If your ball joints are in good condition then they can handle being lowered, but check them out first. Due to geometry angles, yes you are going to wear them differently as they were intended, but its not that big of a deal. If you check your car regularly, which you will need to do if you lower it, everything will work out. You can't live life with the "what if this part breaks" attitude or else you would never drive your car. You could replace everything on your car and still have parts break. It just happens. I still vote for lower it, drive it and see how you like it. You might hate driving a lowered car and stick with stock. If you were close to me I would come over and help you, we could have had this done already. As to tough's who think a lowered car is not functional, I politely disagree. I might have to watch the road more than others but I have been daily driving slammed VW's since 1993 and have no regrets. I have had some stock height also which I love but my daily driver has almost always been lowered. You become comfortable with what you know.
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that looks barely lowered at all to me. And if you are at that height, and the ride isnt good, you have other issues. You shouldnt even really notice much of a difference in ride quality at all at that height
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To me that is low, without being ridiculous.

I don't like slammed or very low look, its looks non-functional and it is non-functional.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vlad01 wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
Mine's not down nearly as much as some of the others here, but then the roads around here aren't condusive for driving a really lowered car either, as we have frost heaves, piss poor road rebuilding, pot holes big enough to swallow a large child, and construction zones almost everywhere in Michigan. Shocked
Here's a pic of my 65 Notch.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It's down 2 inner splines up front, along with the factory (41 year old) sag in the rear (it's on a 70 pan). It's running 195-60-15's up front, with 205-70-15's in the rear. It doesn't beat you up, and it makes a nice comfortable long distance cruizer. I drove it last summer to and from the T-3 Invasion (about 2000 miles 1 way). In fact, I drove it for over 16 hours straight coming back from Carthage Mo, and I wasn't even wore out from being on the road that long. Cool


that is as high as mine is and that's how high I plan with Bert's spindles too.


Like I said before, the ride IS what I wanted to keep. Being low is ok, but...I like to drive long distances in it, and that means multiple states. While the roads out west are nice, the roads to the east of me are almost as bad as my home state. Shocked
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
Mine's not down nearly as much as some of the others here, but then the roads around here aren't condusive for driving a really lowered car either, as we have frost heaves, piss poor road rebuilding, pot holes big enough to swallow a large child, and construction zones almost everywhere in Michigan. Shocked
Here's a pic of my 65 Notch.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It's down 2 inner splines up front, along with the factory (41 year old) sag in the rear (it's on a 70 pan). It's running 195-60-15's up front, with 205-70-15's in the rear. It doesn't beat you up, and it makes a nice comfortable long distance cruizer. I drove it last summer to and from the T-3 Invasion (about 2000 miles 1 way). In fact, I drove it for over 16 hours straight coming back from Carthage Mo, and I wasn't even wore out from being on the road that long. Cool


that is as high as mine is and that's how high I plan with Bert's spindles too.
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soopaman
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

marchi wrote:
i lowered my front 3 and left the old shocks on, they are broke in enough not to bottom out but yet not to stiff, put the new ones on back where all the weight goes.

I planned on trying 3 front and 2 rear, then I came across information concerning premature ball joint and bearing wear attributed to lowering the suspension using this method. How true is that information? Thanks again folks, this is very informative.
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marchi
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i lowered my front 3 and left the old shocks on, they are broke in enough not to bottom out but yet not to stiff, put the new ones on back where all the weight goes.
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supaninja
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

here's the size I'm running on 4.5" wheels http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.js...mp;tab=All
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tire rack - 145/65/15
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=C...mpare1=yes
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vdubjim wrote:

now with these smarts up front and 185 out back hardly any rubbing


where did you buy your smarts from? do you have a link to the tire itself?
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

soopaman wrote:
WoW!....I had no idea this was such a sensitive subject. Just to clarify a few things. I'm new to all this and was just looking for information on the ride quality of a lowered type3 fastback. I do not plan on performing any beam conversions (...yet!). I am interested in the dropped spindles for the type3 I've read about. If anyone can provide information about the company that manufactures them, it would be greatly appreciated. Very Happy

Before you go buying anything, just try lowering it first and see how it feels. Although my present ride is type 1 converted, I have had many that are not and the type III is the best ride imho. Spend a day, lower it, drive it, and if you don't like the feel, then look for the dropped spindles. Nothing is better than free, and this set up can be lowered in a very short amount of time. If you are just brining it down a bit you will like the ride.
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vdubjim
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 front 1 rear (saggy) Smile

Ride like a caddy with stock tires and wheels, only rubbed when turning sharp

now with these smarts up front and 185 out back hardly any rubbing

rides rougher due to sidewall height im guessing.
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russ will also narrow the torsion arms for you too
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luckystiff
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

69SquareGuy wrote:
soopaman wrote:
WoW!....I had no idea this was such a sensitive subject. Just to clarify a few things. I'm new to all this and was just looking for information on the ride quality of a lowered type3 fastback. I do not plan on performing any beam conversions (...yet!). I am interested in the dropped spindles for the type3 I've read about. If anyone can provide information about the company that manufactures them, it would be greatly appreciated. Very Happy


Oldspeed in Paramount, CA can make you some for about $300 + a core charge if you don't send in your old spindles.


and if you got a fat wallet BerT3 is doing a second run of his spindles.......
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1060650
nice for sure but i just did the conversion and in US $ thats $751. i have less than that in my type1 conversion beam, dropped spindles, all new ball joints, tie rod ends, bearings, etc. i don't think russ'(oldspeed) spindles ad much track and drop it about 1/2" more. some people question welded spindles but russ has been at this for a long while and i would trust his product/work....ken....
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

luckystiff wrote:
Erik G wrote:
again, you had something wrong with your type3 front end then. I've been around a long long time, and have had many type 1's and many type 3's, dropped and stock. Sometimes potentially lowest type 3 without bags low. A type 3 front end rides better hands down, as long as everything is in good shape. It's worlds away different.

I'm all cool with people putting T1 beams in, bags, narrowed, stock etc. Your car, whatever works for you is how it should be done. But lets not confuse the situation. A worn out front end no matter what type, would be worse then a nice new narrowed one with all new compnents. , and I've never seen anyone argue against that point. A type 3 will out handle, out brake, and be more comfertible than a type 1 all day long Anything else is like someone arguing that a superbeetle is the best ever - just because that's what's in their garage


ok i'll start with the funniest part of the quote. explain how the stock type3 will OUT BRAKE the t1 conversion set up in my car right now. that'd be REALLY hard since IT'S THE TYPE3 BRAKES that were there before. did they get worse simply from being put on a t1 dropped spindle? literally i reused my rotors, calipers, brake hoses, fuck i didn't even have to bleed the brakes when i was done.....


I said A type 3 will out handle, out brake, and be more comfertible than a type 1 all day long. I didn't say a word about your conversion, how would I know what brakes YOU used? Dont put your twisted words in my mouth, I don't like the way they taste
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

soopaman wrote:
WoW!....I had no idea this was such a sensitive subject. Just to clarify a few things. I'm new to all this and was just looking for information on the ride quality of a lowered type3 fastback. I do not plan on performing any beam conversions (...yet!). I am interested in the dropped spindles for the type3 I've read about. If anyone can provide information about the company that manufactures them, it would be greatly appreciated. Very Happy


Oldspeed in Paramount, CA can make you some for about $300 + a core charge if you don't send in your old spindles.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WoW!....I had no idea this was such a sensitive subject. Just to clarify a few things. I'm new to all this and was just looking for information on the ride quality of a lowered type3 fastback. I do not plan on performing any beam conversions (...yet!). I am interested in the dropped spindles for the type3 I've read about. If anyone can provide information about the company that manufactures them, it would be greatly appreciated. Very Happy
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