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'53 Zwitter Price Advice
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johnshenry
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I forgot to mention that the driver side door is sagging a bit. Probably nothing more serious than the hinge pins though.


Don't assume that. Lift up on the door firmly, and watch the lower hinge area. The lower A pillar can get rusty/weak, and cause the door to sag.

Also, check the door and heater channels bottom thoroughly, jab them hard with a BIC pen or something non-metal. Don't just go by what they "look like", those areas rust from the inside out.

And I agree completely that the original engine is a large factor in determining value.

Good luck...
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bwaz
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

and when you consider purchasing non-stock, realize that in most cases if this vehicle isn't the one you've always dreamed of and hope to keep forever, you'll likely be putting it on the market again. The original purchase price does matter when it becomes difficult to re-sell and you're trying to recover some or all of your original purchase price. IMHO, pay less for something that's not original pan/body/matching numbers as you can't change those things later on. Yes you can get close, but there's only ONE matching pan and motor to that vehicle!
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My opinion:
Missing the original engine is not a huge deal with VWs but it can affect the price, all other things beings equal. A correct month/year engine with all the correct stuff will get you almost back to the same value in my opinion.

If it's not on the original pan... forget it, that is a major hit to value.
I wouldn't even buy a car like that unless it was just to customize or run as-is.
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wolfywho
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wannasplit wrote:


$12,500 seems high. Personally I would not let the motor stand in the way if you could get the car for 7 or 8.



WannaSplit - That's about where I'm at too, based on what I know so far. Thanks for your input.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is not a one owner car. I figured it would have sold at the auction.
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Wannasplit
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Decide how much of a purist you want to be.

I recently passed up a '53 because it was sitting on a '57 chassis, I just would never be able to reconcile the fact that I had to explain the car everytime someone asked about it. So, I will wait for a more original car and will probably pay a lot more for the "right" car.

So it comes down to preference. Splits aren't common cars. Unless you are willing to pay market price (which is astronomically inflated right now) you may not come across another split.

$12,500 seems high. Personally I would not let the motor stand in the way if you could get the car for 7 or 8.

.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wolfywho wrote:
Is this because it wouldn't match up with the original birth certificate?

Exactly. A numbers matching car is worth more than one with the wrong engine.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
For a stock restoration, the original engine has a HUGE effect on the value of the car.
IMO, even if you find a Jan 53 engine to put in the car, it is still 100% the wrong engine.


The real original engine is of course a nice touch.
But if you put in another one out of the same month, to me it would be just 10% the "wrong" engine.
What makes it that wrong to you if even an expert could not tell that it is not the original.
Putting fenders, hoods or whatever from another car on it, does not make those parts "wrong".
So, I could live well with an engine that is close to the first one.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
wolfywho wrote:
How big of a bargaining chip would not having the original engine in this vintage of car be? It's probably not that easy to track down this vintage of engine block (Jan 1953) ....

For a stock restoration, the original engine has a HUGE effect on the value of the car.
IMO, even if you find a Jan 53 engine to put in the car, it is still 100% the wrong engine.


Interesting. Is this because it wouldn't match up with the original birth certificate? Thanks Bruce.

-Wolfy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wolfywho wrote:
How big of a bargaining chip would not having the original engine in this vintage of car be? It's probably not that easy to track down this vintage of engine block (Jan 1953) ....

For a stock restoration, the original engine has a HUGE effect on the value of the car.
IMO, even if you find a Jan 53 engine to put in the car, it is still 100% the wrong engine.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=471462&highlight=value
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue Baron wrote:
For that price, it would be nice to get the '53 1131 engine with it. Could be a bargaining chip.


Thanks Blue. That was my thought too. It seems that all the #'s should be matching for this price.

How big of a bargaining chip would not having the original engine in this vintage of car be? It's probably not that easy to track down this vintage of engine block (Jan 1953) and parts, and probably wouldn't come cheap.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue Baron wrote:
For that price, it would be nice to get the '53 1131 engine with it. Could be a bargaining chip.


yes, my zwit has the original engine when I got it.
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Blue Baron
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For that price, it would be nice to get the '53 1131 engine with it. Could be a bargaining chip.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I paid a little less a few years ago for my zwitter. It had more done to the resto, but was missing more parts than yours. As it's been said, if you feel the car and want it, the price is fair being you can look at in person and decide how much rust repair it will need. What you initially see as a rust problem is usually deeper and more to repair. Even if you just want to clean it up and drive it, you have to want the car... that is as important as $500 more or less when buying it.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 12:55 pm    Post subject: Re: '53 Zwitter Price Advice Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
wolfywho wrote:
I'm thinking that $12,500 is too much for it,

It doesn't matter what anyone on here thinks of the price, YOU are the one with the wallet, and you are not comfortable paying that price.


Yes, that's true. I appreciate everyone's advice though, and don't take it lightly. You guys have been in the trenches with this vintage of Beetle, and a lot can be learned from all of you. It's always good to get additional input, just in case I'm forgetting (usually the case) something.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 12:49 pm    Post subject: Re: '53 Zwitter Price Advice Reply with quote

wolfywho wrote:
I'm thinking that $12,500 is too much for it,

It doesn't matter what anyone on here thinks of the price, YOU are the one with the wallet, and you are not comfortable paying that price.
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Rich's 50
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems to be priced right to me, unless if it has rust and hidden issues
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oldnslow wrote:
I can see your dilemma. The price does seem high but if it doesn't need a lot of rust repair you may be ahead of the game. The area you live in isn't exactly Arizona when it comes to rust. To put it another way you might find another one for $5000 but it would need $8000 in rust repair and parts. Step one is to go back and take a long look and make sure it is really what it appears to be. How many zwitter splits are there in Michigan?


They had 15's
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Oldnslow
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see your dilemma. The price does seem high but if it doesn't need a lot of rust repair you may be ahead of the game. The area you live in isn't exactly Arizona when it comes to rust. To put it another way you might find another one for $5000 but it would need $8000 in rust repair and parts. Step one is to go back and take a long look and make sure it is really what it appears to be. How many zwitter splits are there in Michigan?
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