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Long axle long spline brake drum ,help
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cwbbucker
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:35 am    Post subject: Re: Long axle long spline brake drum ,help Reply with quote

Thank you for your help! Put my weeks of searching to shame.
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EVfun Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 12:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Long axle long spline brake drum ,help Reply with quote

I'd hit up the classifieds here on theSamba. You are looking for a 1958-1964 backing plate. The 1965-1967 plate looks similar but has the resting spots for the brake shoes by the wheel cylinder and adjusters. I have seen them listed wrong, but if they provide decent pictures in the ad you can tell if it is what you want. 1968 and newer are easy to tell from the older ones because they have holes in the backing plate to adjust the brakes.

This looks like a pair of the needed backing plates. I don't see the weep hole and the shoe bottoms appear to be flat pre-'65 type.
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cwbbucker
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 11:25 am    Post subject: Re: Long axle long spline brake drum ,help Reply with quote

Thanks EVFun do you know where I can get a matching backing plate to the one I have pictured? I need a right rear. I cant find a matching one with out the guides on the top.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 7:11 am    Post subject: Re: Long axle long spline brake drum ,help Reply with quote

cwbbucker wrote:
Did you end up using that backing plate? I cannot find that exact one for the life of me!

Here is a picture of mine anyone have one?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I see an early bearing cap, correct from 1958-1964. It will work up to the 1967 long axle tube, but not on the 1968 long axle tube. It has no #13 oil deflector.

If you are using the bearing cap that lacks built in deflector then you don't need any paper gaskets. The large o ring seals the outside of the gearing and the small o rings seals the inside of the bearing from leaks. The seal in the bearing cap seals against leaks through the bearing. Unless you have early drums with the oil slinger clipped inside you have no backup system to keep gear oil off the brakes if you develop a leak. That is how my Buggy is set up, using the '58-'64 bearing cap and brakes with '67 long axles and tubes on no oil slinger.
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cwbbucker
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 5:47 am    Post subject: Re: Long axle long spline brake drum ,help Reply with quote

Did you end up using that backing plate? I cannot find that exact one for the life of me!

Here is a picture of mine anyone have one?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some techniques for avoiding swingaxle seal leaks;

Ensure the spacer is installed in the correct direction, so the small o-ring can fit into its internal chamfer.

Ensure the spring on the lip seal wasn't partially rolled off the rubber lip when the spacer was pushed onto the axle and into the lip seal. The way to avoid rolling the lip seal/spring is, before the seal/bearing holder is installed, slide the spacer into the seal first and then check the back side of the lip seal and make sure the spring hasn't rolled off and the rubber lip hasn't turned under. Then you install the bearing/seal retainer and spacer as an assembly onto the axle and backing plate

Another problem is if the large O-ring gets pinched. Ensure the large O-ring is slipped all the way down over the outside of the bearing before the bearing/seal retainer/spacer assembly is installed.

Another mistake is to use both gaskets in the kit. Only one is used on a bug.

Ensure the axle nut is correctly torqued.
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Lip Ripper
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you!
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The oil deflector #13 is a little thicker and wider (not included in cheap kits) and it is totally captured between the axle seal and the 65 up shrouded bearing cap. You have to remove the axle seal from the cap to remove the #13 oil deflector.
Most of us just clean and reuse the #13..

Supposidly.. Wolfsburg West and others sells the kit with both inner #7 and outer #13.

Click here.. you can see the difference in sizes..
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111598051A

Note ^ .. its not in the description...

Heres a pic..

.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



#13 info.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416443

drscope wrote:
I have a cruddy one here that measures

O.D. 2.290 inches 51.54mm

I.D. 1.186 inches 30.14mm

Thickness 0.038 inches 0.97mm



.
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Lip Ripper
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:53 pm    Post subject: 67 rear axle Reply with quote

Ah, then that would explain my recurring leak. I thought the part in the kit was a new #13 oil deflector. Are they interchangeable? Perhaps my using the earlier drum has forced the o-ring into the spacer distorting it.

Stacey
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If #7 is radiused... its used..and generally not reuseable

Replace with the new one in the axle bearing kit...

Hopefully you have the axle bearing seal kit ???

This is for one side.. Universal kit..
Beetle uses 1 gasket
Bus uses 2 gaskets


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

.
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aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
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Lip Ripper
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:55 am    Post subject: Wrong number mentioned on spacer Reply with quote

Number 7 is the one in question; my err.

Stacey
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both inner #5 and outer #10 spacers... the tapered or radiused inner edge goes inward.

If you'll notice the portion of the axle where that #5 is placed its radiused the same way..
When you place #5 on the axle... it created the perfect flat area for the ball bearing to sandwich up against.
#10 captures the oring against the washer #7..


.
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aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
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Lip Ripper
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:42 am    Post subject: 1967 rear drum Reply with quote

I have read all of this and there is a ton of great info. I have my wife's apart now and based on the info at hand she has a 67 transaxle and tubes. I noticed that the drum is a 113 501 615A which is supposed to be the 57 and earlier type. Do I need a different drum? (Recurring seal leak is the problem). And also, the washer number 5 in the diagram; it has a taper on the inside. Does this taper go inward or outward?

Stacey
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dale M. wrote:

Guess I have nothing more to offer....... Every body else knows so much more than I do and this thread has gone way beyond sane limits with everybody opinions and only half right comments.... So my help is not needed.....
Bye-bye...

Dale


Which is why I tried to check out last page..... Laughing
Dale..its went well beyond sane.... off to chase the Road Runner now...
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aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
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Laxkraap
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dale m
I must have misunderstood what you were showing me/us.i do value your opinion as well as the others who have contributed to the thread.if i came across as a know-it-all that was Not my intention.
I can here looking for help and got more than anyone could expect and for that i am greatfull,even if it doesn't seem as though i am
Thanks all
Laxkraap

Edited because i didnt't proof read
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laxkraap wrote:
Dale M. wrote:
Have you given thought as to using early bearing caps and the fact the cap hits bearing long before the cap clamps the backing plate solid to axle housing... Even with bearing cap at full torque it may not actually clamp backing plate and allow it to shift around and maybe eventually shear all the bolts as well as elongate the holes in backing plate .... Bearing seat depth in cap is critical to how much bearing sticks out of axle housing and the depth of bearing fit into cap including the thickness of backing plate....

The depth (difference) in bearing cap is to insure full clamping force to bearings AND the backing plate.... To shallow of bearing seat depth in early cap will clamp bearing but probably NOT backing plate.....

It is critical to have correct bearing cap for backing plate and axle tube/bearing configuration...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


IF this space is more than (as in not equal to or less then) thickness of backing plate you have additional problem... This is why its crucial to have correct bearing cap...

Its not just a oil seep issue......

Dale


Dale m
Your reading to much into yht photo.the bearing caap was on to keep me from pulling on the axle,finger tight maybe.there is no backing plate in the picture,so i can show the drum install limit
Laxkraap


No, I am not.... The picture was captured as a example of where a gap may occur and what the problem may be if proper bearing cap is not used, NOT WHAT ACTUAL SITUATION IS....... You are reading to much in the example, by assuming I am accepting them as actual fact when I am only using graphic as a example where a problem may occur and my posting is just a "general comment" ...

Guess I have nothing more to offer....... Every body else knows so much more than I do and this thread has gone way beyond sane limits with everybody opinions and only half right comments.... So my help is not needed.....

Bye-bye...

Dale
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry guys,
I've been told i have a 'dry' sense of humor.Hopefully i'll get the bearing out this weekend.I do appreciate all the advise,time and great info and didn't mean to offend anyone
Laxkraap
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laxkraap wrote:
Volkswagnut
Here they go again


No... We are all just very observant... and trying to help you.
You've received great FREE information from everyone thats contributed..

Take that information and start making some measurements and observations.... and.... write down what you find for future reference..
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited
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Laxkraap
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 12:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Volkswagnut
Here they go again
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Laxkraap
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dale M. wrote:
Have you given thought as to using early bearing caps and the fact the cap hits bearing long before the cap clamps the backing plate solid to axle housing... Even with bearing cap at full torque it may not actually clamp backing plate and allow it to shift around and maybe eventually shear all the bolts as well as elongate the holes in backing plate .... Bearing seat depth in cap is critical to how much bearing sticks out of axle housing and the depth of bearing fit into cap including the thickness of backing plate....

The depth (difference) in bearing cap is to insure full clamping force to bearings AND the backing plate.... To shallow of bearing seat depth in early cap will clamp bearing but probably NOT backing plate.....

It is critical to have correct bearing cap for backing plate and axle tube/bearing configuration...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


IF this space is more than (as in not equal to or less then) thickness of backing plate you have additional problem... This is why its crucial to have correct bearing cap...

Its not just a oil seep issue......

Dale


Dale m
Your reading to much into yht photo.the bearing caap was on to keep me from pulling on the axle,finger tight maybe.there is no backing plate in the picture,so i can show the drum install limit
Laxkraap


Last edited by Laxkraap on Fri Feb 07, 2014 1:03 am; edited 1 time in total
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