How many hours approx. to lower the rear end?

vamram

At the very least I'd bet the one shock is shot and the other not far behind. Spring plate and torsion bar bushings are probably worn out as well. Get yourself the tools others have used for this, order replacement bushings from Wolfsburg West, and get to work!
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'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
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Buggeee

Is it possible to lower one side more than the other? Can I put it up a little on one side to fix this using the spline method?

I got this bug as a project, the build thread is below, so I don't know the history. But its lowered all around.

The rear is not on the bump stop on the driver side but it is on the bump stop on the passenger side. The drivers axle is straight. The passenger axle angles up (or put another way, the car sits lower on the passenger side). Could it have been dropped an extra spline on that side as a mistake when it was lowered? Or is this something else. I'll try this spline adjustment technique on the one side if that is what I should do. Here are the two pictures.

Thank you Samba people.

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Cusser

I just wait a few decades and the rear end will lower itself !!!
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Bashr52

I just unbolt the pivot arm from the spring plate (after marking the position of the arm on the spring plate), remove the torsion end cap, and chain the car to the jack, lever it off the stop, and let it settle back down SLOWLY.

EXJAY

Update to my issue above: Found I needed to free up more of the e-brake cable and brake line for just enough to get the plate over. Once I got the t-bar loose and adjusted up (one inner to lower the rear some) I could use a large screw driver to leverage it back on the perch since it was now physically closer to it. (Never used a spring plate tool for this job)
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EXJAY

'74 Superbeetle (Family owned since new)
'73 181 Thing (sold)

EXJAY

So where Im stuck at is I have the CV, shock disconnected, removed bump stop, scribe/marked the plate orientation and removed the bolts and torsion cover. I cannot drop or raise the trailing arm enough to clear the spring plate and my e brake cable is pretty tight. Seems Im at the same point as the flip flop dude but refuse to cut or notch the plate to clear. I looked at my training arm piviot bolt and appears someone had stripped out the allen head portion so that's not really a option to remove. Any ideas?
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EXJAY

'74 Superbeetle (Family owned since new)
'73 181 Thing (sold)

LeninCas · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 9:17 pm Post subject:

Cusser,

Yes, that was me. Silly mistake. It actually happened when pulling out a tranny..... and I WAS wearing flip flops.

Definitely not working like that again though. Scary, valuable lesson.
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Joel · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 3:21 pm Post subject:

Cusser · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 11:42 am Post subject:

BugMan114 · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:57 am Post subject:

LeninCas · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:52 am Post subject:

Yes, I have both 8mm star drives and 17mm allen for tranny so either one will work. I like the pivot way better.

GT: I ALWAYS work in shorts and flip flops but I definitely will not be doing so for this job! Thanks for the advice, definitely don't want someting falling on my foot even though I'm sure a shoe won't protect me if the car falls on me Rolling Eyes

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gt1953 · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 7:23 am Post subject:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocO0Tf8z_vQ

I would not work on that in shorts and flip flops for safety reason. To me that is just plain stupid. The grinding thing nope nadda.
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Cusser · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 6:59 am Post subject:

TJ's68Beetle · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 5:16 am Post subject:

This guy makes it look easy. Well except for the whole grinding thing. But he does explain why he has to do it and it's something that can be avoided if you can get everything apart correctly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocO0Tf8z_vQ

BugMan114 · Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 12:00 am Post subject:

OMG yes, please do your research before attempting to do this. that spring is no joke. even with the car jacked up with the wheels off the ground, there is a LOT of tension in the torsion bar. Its putting a lot of downward force on the springplate. When you jack the plate upwards, you want to use a prybar to pull the plate out, JUST A LITTLE BIT!!! just enough to clear the stop. you should only need to pull it out like 1/8''. just make sure your hands are no where near the spring plate itself, incase something slips, or the jack fails.

And depending on which way you go about moving the trialing arm out of the way, I like joels method better, about taking the pivot bolt out. but it needs a 17mm allen wrench to do so. if you decide to remove the CV bolts, advance auto sells the proper 6mm tool. its in the specialty tool section, and its called a "12pt triple square" bit set. basically like allen wrenches, cept with the 12 point ends. it only comes in a 4 pack (3 other sizes besides 6mm). but its cheaper on CIP1 if you don't mind waiting on shipping
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1974 Super Beetle: Custom resto in progress
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1960 Baja Bug
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Aircooled Airheads

Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!!

Joeys1969 · Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 9:52 pm Post subject:

LeninCas · Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 9:17 pm Post subject:

Joel, I just read the article. It seems pretty straight forward, thanks!

I will definitely watch the videos too and see how it goes !
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Joel · Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 6:36 pm Post subject:

LeninCas · Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 5:47 pm Post subject:

NOW I am confused. I figured the weight of the car would allow the spring plate to move up a notch.

I thought the angle iron method was to measure the angle of the spring plate? That way I can compare them and make sure they are both the same level.

Cusser: What you are saying makes sense to me but I am not sure where I will have to "pry" it. I thought I would hear a "click" to indicate to me that the spring plate has moved up a notch. I'm really doing this all on imagination, I have absolutely no idea. I just want to make sure I have a good idea first and then watch the videos to confirm what I think. That way, I will feel confident once I go ahead and do it.
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Joel · Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 5:13 pm Post subject:


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How many hours approx. to lower the rear end?
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