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Daily Driver in the making
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GingaNinja
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 11:10 am    Post subject: Re: Daily Driver in the making Reply with quote

Update: When I went to go home last night, I started the car and there was a static-like crackle coming from the in-dash speaker. You know, the one that isn't hooked up to anything. Anyway, the white noise went away and now my signal lights work again. I'm guessing a bad ground connection. Anyone have any other thoughts on it?

While we're on the topic of signal lights. When I got the car they didn't work properly, I cleaned the bulbs and the connector, now the signal lights work. Unfortunately, the dash indicator doesn't work. Also, if I turn on my hazards, the signal lights go out and the bulb in the hazard switch turns off.

Any ideas?
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GingaNinja
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 5:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Daily Driver in the making Reply with quote

Just as I'm thinking that I'm almost ready to move on to some more cosmetic things...
On my way to work this morning, I'm sitting in the left hand turn lane waiting for the light to chance when my signal light stopped. I tried flipping on the right signal and got a single "click" with no flash and then nothing.
I figured that it was probably a fuse so I went out to check during lunch. Fuses all look fine. I turned the key on and tried the signal lights. Got a couple clicks but without any lights coming on and then it stopped again.

Anyone have any suggestions?
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Maddel
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 1:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GingaNinja wrote:
I popped the hood and was watching the caps over the shock mounts while my son pulled on the top of the tire. He was able to pull the tire back into line (when he let go it would flop back) and as he moved it I could see the... dust cap(?) over the shock tower moving back and forth with the wheel.
Shocked Shocked

It seems your "Strut Bearing Mount" is beat-up... Also there are a lot of rubber bushings which tend to wear.
For a correct front suspension set-up it's vital that all of these are in top condition Exclamation
This link is just for reference: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-133-407-183-PR

The Super's MacPherson suspension is much less forgiving than the more robust front end of the Standard Beetles.
(I have no idea if "much less forgiving" is a correct English phrase...) Embarassed
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GingaNinja
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the diagram Maddel! It looks very similar to what is on my 74 as well.
I think I must have numerous problems that are compounding to confuse me. I will probably have to fix one thing after another until it is finally remedied.

I popped the hood and was watching the caps over the shock mounts while my son pulled on the top of the tire. He was able to pull the tire back into line (when he let go it would flop back) and as he moved it I could see the... dust cap(?) over the shock tower moving back and forth with the wheel.
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Maddel
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GingaNinja wrote:
I've noticed that my front wheels have more camber than I am comfortable with. Also, if I grab the top of the wheel I can pull the right wheel almost a centimeter toward me, the left wheel doesn't have as much play. Could this be from the wheel bearing or do I have a more serious concern on my hands?
...
I replaced the wheel bearings on both sides and everything seems to be working nicely from that. Unfortunately it did very little to correct my camber issues.
From doing some research it sounds as though I should be able to fix a lot of this by replacing my worn out shocks.


Changing just the shocks will have no effect I'm affraid...

The pic below shows the basic layout (pre '73) and may be it helps understanding your Beetle's MacPherson suspension:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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GingaNinja
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll need to update my sig to be more informative!

It's a 74 super
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this a Super or Standard? I always assume it's a standard if it isn't mentioned, especially on later models. Super front end is really different from a standard. My comments about adjusting camber were for the standard I assumed you were working on.
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GingaNinja
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Q-dog. As far as knowing what I'm doing, I'll be the first to admit that I don't know right now. However, nobody knows what they are doing the first time! I'll need to find a walk through and study up on it before I try anything. Taking it to a shop is a last resort. Very Happy

I am still going to need new shocks either way. They are shot. When I step on the bumper, they barely compress and they don't go back up when I step off. They don't go up until I lift the bumper. As I've mentioned before, this is my daily driver so I'm not looking for high performance stuff, just reliable and durable. Any suggestions?
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Camber on the front end is adjusted with an eccentric nut at the upper ball joint. Adjusting camber will also affect caster and toe in/out. If you don't know what you are doing, bring it to an alignment shop.
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GingaNinja
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply Squareweave.

Oddly enough the passenger side is worse than the drivers. Though both of them are bad.

When I was reading on vw-resource.com it was indicated that shocks would affect the camber. Was I misreading that?
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squareweave
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's the drivers side that is lower than the passenger side its probably the torsion bars that are sagged out. drivers side usually goes lower with time as there is always a driver in the car and not always a passenger. You can re-adjust them by a combo of inner and out splines to dial in the height and camber at the same time.

Use the search function on how to do this as there is lots of info and specs on this site about it.

Shocks to nothing to lift the vehicle back up, they are there to dampen the rebound.
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punkbug
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have any advice for you, being a total newbie, but I'm in need of shock replacement as well... PO put air shocks on my ride, and they aren't working at all. Hopefully someone will chime in with some helpful advice Wink
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GingaNinja
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the wheel bearings on both sides and everything seems to be working nicely from that. Unfortunately it did very little to correct my camber issues.

From doing some research it sounds as though I should be able to fix a lot of this by replacing my worn out shocks.

I'm including some pics of how my stance is right now, in the hopes that pictures will encourage some of the folks who have been browsing and not commenting to pitch in with their nuggets of wisdom/experience.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Anyone have a recommendation for daily driver shocks?
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GingaNinja
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replacing the brake went without a hitch! Everything went smoothly, even installing the new springs.

After having ordered the parts I realized that I should be replacing the wheel bearing at this point as well, so I now have those parts and will probably do that job over the weekend. Any pointers on this procedure?

I've noticed that my front wheels have more camber than I am comfortable with. Also, if I grab the top of the wheel I can pull the right wheel almost a centimeter toward me, the left wheel doesn't have as much play. Could this be from the wheel bearing or do I have a more serious concern on my hands?
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took the brake apart last night and started channeling George Takei.

"Oh My!"

The brake lining was worn right through in one spot and the cylinder wasn't retracting due to weak springs. Not to mention the mass of dirt and brake dust.

I've ordered new shoes and hardware to replace everything. I've also ordered new wheel bearings as there seemed to be an unnerving amount of horizontal movement.

This evening should be fun!
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the encouragement and responses. Sorry for not replying with info sooner.

I have no idea what those tail lights are! At first I was thinking of taking them off and putting the elephant feet back in just so that I had one fewer PO upgrade to worry was causing problems. But now that they are working I like them. They are really bright and highly visible, so for the time being I think I'll keep 'em. If anyone reading this knows what they are, feel free to post the info.

As for the water getting in. Anything is possible. I ripped out the carpet cover over the left rear inner fender to see if I could trace any water path. Guess what! I get to practice replacing sheet metal! The PO put in a mass of bondo and kitty hair in there. I think I'll rip it out and that gives me a window back there to take a poke around and see if the foam has been taken out.

On another note, I need to fix my brakes, again. While I was driving the pedal went to the floor. I have brakes when I pump a couple times but that's not exactly safe. I checked and there is brake fluid on the inside of the front right rim. Also after having gotten home I was checking to see if I had enough room to pull the tire and the rim was HOT, smoking hot, while the left front was cold and the rears were only warm. Needless to say, the bug isn't going anywhere until I can open that up and see what the damage is. If it's really bad, does anyone have a recommended disc conversion package for a 74 super?

Thanks for reading and for any advise!
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2015 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could the water be coming in the rear side vents, behind your quarter windows? That's a known leaky spot that can cause some serious inside rust, as well. Good looking car, by the way. Hope you get all your electric stuff sorted out soon; i know what a pain in the a$$ that spaghetti wiring is, especially with PO "upgrades". Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice looker. What are those tail lights?
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the hand brake sorted out. And went through the lighting connectors wire brushing everything and putting a dab of dielectric grease on them. Tada! The lights work.

My hazards shut everything down though. I really don't have an answer to why turning the hazard lights on would cause the other lights to stop working.

I have a couple new issues as well. I started up this morning and all was well. The alternator light came on when I turned the key and went out when the engine started. Then, as often happens in the morning, the engine stalled. It started back up no problem. Unfortunately, when the engine stalled, the alternator light did not come on. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, it started raining here on the wet coast and while I was driving in I discovered that water is getting inside. It appears to be coming in the opening that all the wires run out the back of the left side of the cab. Now I need to find out how it is getting in there.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow did those brakes ever need adjusting! After doing that, and thank goodness that only one of the star adjuster nuts was even vaguely seized, I wired up a momentary switch from the battery to the starter to by-pass the interlock issue.
I took her for another spin around the block. Still no brake lights, and this time I confirmed, speedo isn't working either. *sigh*

I'm happy that she's running and starts reliably with the makeshift starter button. Not so enthusiastic that I'm constantly taking one step forward and another step back.
Tonight, I have to adjust the handbrake and take another look at the brake lights.
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