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Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2022 6:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

10mm x 1.0
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2022 4:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

Yes, that would be a good place to check the oil temp. If I am not mistaken, that would be the temp of the oil prior to it going thru the cooler or filter.

I would remove the plug to see what the thread is and go from there.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2022 12:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

What are your thoughts on taping in to the available port on the left of this pic to instal an oil temp sensor? Would this work? Would I just unscrew the bolt in in this spot and screw in a 1/8th temp sensor and run a cable to a powered gauge at the dash to get a more accurate understanding of my oil temps? Running an AAZ 1.9 with Turbo in a 82 Diesel
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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 10:57 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

crazyvwvanman wrote:
The ignition switch black wire circuit has NO FUSES and shouldn't be used in that way. It could melt something, cause a fire, or stop the engine from running. If you must use it then make sure your added wire has a properly sized fuse right near where it connects to the black wire. Better to get power from a fused circuit in the first place.

Mark


That's why the use of an auxiliary fuse block is necessary. I just assumed the OP would know to fuse the new spliced-in circuit. Seems the 15 circuit is a good one to tap into. However, if a Bentley isn't available or other reliable electrical schematic, the OP may need to get up with someone who has experience with Vanagon electrical systems.
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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 8:00 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

The ignition switch black wire circuit has NO FUSES and shouldn't be used in that way. It could melt something, cause a fire, or stop the engine from running. If you must use it then make sure your added wire has a properly sized fuse right near where it connects to the black wire. Better to get power from a fused circuit in the first place.

Mark
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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 4:57 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

Skelly,

Remove the steering column cover and take a look at the electrical connector that plugs onto the ignition switch, bottom right.

Then, take a look at the wires. There will be at least one black wire in the bundle. It will be a source of "switched" power. Follow it as far as possible under the dash. Look for a place to splice into it for your "switched" power to the ATF gauge...
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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 4:33 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

AndyBees wrote:
Skidub wrote:
On a related note, can anyone confirm which fuse numbers are switched power on, i.e hot when the key is in the ignition and turned? One of these would be the likely spots that I would install an add-a-fuse in order to power a couple of gauges. I think I used fuse 18 to do an add-a-fuse for my LED Headlight DRLs. Are there other spots? Thanks.


I've never studied in detail the 86 and newer Vanagon electrical schematics.

With the ALH TDI install in my 84 Van, additional gauges, etc., I've learned at least two things with circuits, gauges are very sensitive to volt changes and grounding. Although everything grounds to the body, some gauges work much better if their ground wire(s) are not connected close to or in tandem with other gauge grounds, including the ground for the internal lights.

I'd stay away from the head light circuits, windshield wiper circuit, emergency flasher circuit, and I am sure there are others to avoid.

On my 84 - here is a condensed summary of the fuse circuits

Fuses 1 through 6 involve the headlights, taillights,

Fuse 7: Rad Fan
Fuse 8: Cigarette lighter, interior lights, brake lights, seat belt warning light, some dash lights,
Fuse 9: Radio, (and emergency flasher, see below also)
Fuse 10: Wiper, heater fan blower,
Fuse 11: Emergency flasher, turn signals,
Fuse 12: Horn, backup light, low coolant, some of cluster,
Fuse 13: Rear window defog, radio (see above for radio also),

I think there are others. These are the only ones I needed to know and work with.

The main power to the Cluster is from the ignition switch directly to pin #14 with no fuse.

If you plan to add a fuse, I suggest tapping one of the circuits coming directly off the ignition switch... the #15 circuit is hot with ignition ON (that holds true on all VWs). #15 circuit wire is Black on my 84 and is a 16 gauge wire.


dumb question but How do you actually "tap into" these circuits? I'm adding an ATF temp gauge to my 85 weekender and having trouble figuring out where to run the wiring
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 6:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

dhaavers wrote:
^^^ Show/compare your digital for accuracy? Inquiring minds... Wink

- Dave



Here you go Dave. .....

Looks like as the pressure goes up the Digital tends to read higher. Of course, this is on a work bench, at room temp and no engine vibrations...

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 9:17 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

dhaavers wrote:
^^^ Show/compare your digital for accuracy? Inquiring minds... Wink

- Dave
'

It is on order ......... will do when I get it!
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:49 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

^^^ Show/compare your digital for accuracy? Inquiring minds... Wink

- Dave
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:10 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

Well, I've settled on a Digital Oil Pressure Gauge without the Warning feature. I've been using one of them in my 84. The flashing light and warning buzzer would drive me nuts... I just want to see pressure at the low numbers without all the fanfare.

Anyway, in the meantime, I did some gauge testing and comparison yesterday. I have a USA made VDO gauge that I've used for years to test fuel injection systems on VWs, primarily the CIS systems. I found the gauge to be very accurate per the specs of the systems I was working on.

This is the "mechanical gauge" that I had originally considered installing. It looks to be fairly accurate across the sweep.... (Made in Germany, NOS from a local source)

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2017 10:49 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

Skidub wrote:
On a related note, can anyone confirm which fuse numbers are switched power on, i.e hot when the key is in the ignition and turned? One of these would be the likely spots that I would install an add-a-fuse in order to power a couple of gauges. I think I used fuse 18 to do an add-a-fuse for my LED Headlight DRLs. Are there other spots? Thanks.


I've never studied in detail the 86 and newer Vanagon electrical schematics.

With the ALH TDI install in my 84 Van, additional gauges, etc., I've learned at least two things with circuits, gauges are very sensitive to volt changes and grounding. Although everything grounds to the body, some gauges work much better if their ground wire(s) are not connected close to or in tandem with other gauge grounds, including the ground for the internal lights.

I'd stay away from the head light circuits, windshield wiper circuit, emergency flasher circuit, and I am sure there are others to avoid.

On my 84 - here is a condensed summary of the fuse circuits

Fuses 1 through 6 involve the headlights, taillights,

Fuse 7: Rad Fan
Fuse 8: Cigarette lighter, interior lights, brake lights, seat belt warning light, some dash lights,
Fuse 9: Radio, (and emergency flasher, see below also)
Fuse 10: Wiper, heater fan blower,
Fuse 11: Emergency flasher, turn signals,
Fuse 12: Horn, backup light, low coolant, some of cluster,
Fuse 13: Rear window defog, radio (see above for radio also),

I think there are others. These are the only ones I needed to know and work with.

The main power to the Cluster is from the ignition switch directly to pin #14 with no fuse.

If you plan to add a fuse, I suggest tapping one of the circuits coming directly off the ignition switch... the #15 circuit is hot with ignition ON (that holds true on all VWs). #15 circuit wire is Black on my 84 and is a 16 gauge wire.
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1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine, seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003. 1975 Bay hopeful.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2017 9:16 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

On a related note, can anyone confirm which fuse numbers are switched power on, i.e hot when the key is in the ignition and turned? One of these would be the likely spots that I would install an add-a-fuse in order to power a couple of gauges. I think I used fuse 18 to do an add-a-fuse for my LED Headlight DRLs. Are there other spots? Thanks.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2017 6:20 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

Well, thus far, this has been a good discussion with lots of valuable information.

I agree with the draw-backs of the mechanical oil pressure gauge. However, VDO doesn't offer a Digital gauge. And, if you notice, the vast majority of analog gauges do not begin to show pressure until 5 to 10 lbs, which seems to be useless if the engine, at operating temp, is idling less pressure than what the gauges can show. So, I intend to go with a Digital gauge.

As for view location of the gauge(s) being monitored, well my intent has more to do with learning and knowing those base numbers. Any location is better than none at all. I have a Scan Gauge in my other Van, but it is not mounted anywhere for easy view. So, I guess that's all a bit of personal preference.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 2:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

tjet wrote:
The VDO sender warning light switch output (W), activates around 7psi & less.

I don't think I would regard that as a nuisance if the light comes on, but that's just me.

Now, the original "high" switch on the digifant, that one I ignore, & that's why I got rid of it.


Here's a write-up from a respected vendor regarding aircooled engines, but I assume the WBX operates roughly the same:

Quote:

We don't feel that the VDO 80psi Oil Pressure, 10 X 1mm, Dual Pole Sending Unit is the "right" sender to use for aircooled VW Engines because the oil light comes on at too high a pressure. Stock is 2psi, this comes on at 7-8psi.

Aircooled VW Engines usually have a hot idle anywhere from 1.5-7psi when properly built (Proper sized pump), and using the correct viscosity oil (10psi/1k RPM hot cruise). More pressure than this at cruise causes the stock oil cooler to be bypassed, and oil temps skyrocket. When you size the pump and oil viscosity properly, you should see hot idle between 1.5-7psi.

If you use a VDO 2-Pole Sending Unit, the idiot light is triggered at 8psi, and you will be constantly freaking out at hot idle wondering "what's wrong".

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 1:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

AndyBees wrote:
Thanks for all the responses....

Well, without attempting to respond by quotes, I'll just do a general response.

I've seen comments in other Threads that a long small tube for the Mechanical Gauge would be less responsive, especially during the colder season.

So, I need to go back shopping... for an electric gauge! Question: Digital or Sweep?

As for the rear Oil Pressure Sending Unit, after changing that thing out about 8 months ago, I gave some thought to plugging it. Of course, I'd need to do a T off the other Oil Pressure Sending unit hole to maintain the Dynamic system.

Now, to tie all this together, where do I get one of those splitters?

Side note: Seems the Grease Gun Hose has the NPT pitch and I am using it with a brass T on my 84. So, I guess that explains why it works okay without a leak, etc.



I like the analog swept gages, vdo cockpit series looks nice, complements stock dash. the little mounting cups work great, tucked in the lower corner of windshield, right on the dash, no stand always in view when eyes are on the road. since these are warning gages to big engine problems that need immediate attention, mounting them anyplace other than in eye sight of the drivers front view is sub standard, and maybe useless. What good is the gage when you first see it pegged zero pressure as you pull over to the emergency lane off the freeway when the engine suddenly lost power and made a grinding noise, rather than noticing 5 miles ago the gage would flick down a bit and then recover on a sharp corner or steep hill becuase the oil level was just starting to get low enough for the pump to suck air a little bit, the engine failed when all it could suck was air.

so mount them high and proud in the drivers fromt view for greatest utility and warning.


good luck
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 1:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

Energy Concepts wrote:
Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
You'll want to connect the voltmeter to a switched source of 12v + unless you add a toggle; otherwise you're just adding a voltage drain when the engine is off. Personally, I'd be leery of running an oil tube all the way to the front of the car, not only for the concerns about leaking but also accuracy. I've had very good luck with VDO electric gauges on many different vehicles.

Just curious, why are you adding a coolant temp gauge...or did you mean oil temp?


I have my (electric) oil pressure gauge on the rear oil gallery plug.
And, I'm questioning it's accuracy!

Is there a way to double check what's "really" going on?

Maybe a second gauge installed at the front?

Thanks!
John



Yes, get a certified calibrated gage attached. Figure what kind of certification you require, and have it used. If that is too good, then I suppose you cpuld swap out serveral gages, and take the average reading, maybe removing out laying high or low valuesfrom the average calculation. That will not give you calibration, but will give some assurance if you find a narrow range of pressure values by them.

I got a pressure gage I use as a personal standard to measure deviation of gages in my cars, more than one car I have so it has given me assurance that all the gages I have happen to be pretty close in calibration.

Now on some gages, you may find the maker will supply a resistances verses pressure or temperature curve for the sending unit. you may then read the sending unit with a known good ohm meter, and compare the curve temperature value to the gage reading. I believe the vanagon manual has such a chart for the water temp sender, but that might have only been for the ecu temperature sender, rather than the dash gage sender.


good luck
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
You'll want to connect the voltmeter to a switched source of 12v + unless you add a toggle; otherwise you're just adding a voltage drain when the engine is off. Personally, I'd be leery of running an oil tube all the way to the front of the car, not only for the concerns about leaking but also accuracy. I've had very good luck with VDO electric gauges on many different vehicles.

Just curious, why are you adding a coolant temp gauge...or did you mean oil temp?


I have my (electric) oil pressure gauge on the rear oil gallery plug.
And, I'm questioning it's accuracy!

Is there a way to double check what's "really" going on?

Maybe a second gauge installed at the front?

Thanks!
John
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 12:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

The VDO sender warning light switch output (W), activates around 7psi & less.

I don't think I would regard that as a nuisance if the light comes on, but that's just me.

Now, the original "high" switch on the digifant, that one I ignore, & that's why I got rid of it.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 2:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Installing Gauges (Temp, Volt & Oil pressure) 2.1 Reply with quote

Indeed, which can cause needless panic and anxiety since a WBX can easily tolerate much lower hot idle pressures than most other engine types.
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