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Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose?
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
Not judging, just watching.
I mistakenly thought you wanted transportation not a guest cottage...... continue on!

Dave

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Let's face it; many of our vans spend more time than we might like as immobile homes ...
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

Not judging, just watching.
I mistakenly thought you wanted transportation not a guest cottage...... continue on!

Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 11:41 am    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

Quote:
Furthermore I see this van partly as an investment. Why keep a few thousand bucks in the bank when you can have a van to slowly and enjoyably fix up, use on trips, use as an extra bedroom, then perhaps eventually sell for a profit?


No need to have the parking space and ownership hassle - Ill put in an order of 100 shares of Van-enron on the American Short Exchange for you.

I would sell them to my own mother, they are so safe.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:47 am    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

Igeo wrote:
To each his/her own. That condition of the wood being unknown, from a distance represents to me a very possible risk of a piece splitting and a subsequent accident. A frame firmly supported by a jackstand is safer with less liklihoiod of toppling. I know- they raise houses on wood cribbing. That wood is selected for the purpose.


You are right to point out a potential hazard, but well made (albeit shabby looking) wood stands made with solid wood - and properly used are certainly more safe then standard metal jack stands IMO. Furthermore I always leave the side jack fully engaged and supporting 50% of the weight. On top of that, I often also put the removed wheel under the van as a last ditch safety measure.

Thanks for your concern, and for the benefit of those not experience with wood - might have seen my fotos and assumed they can get away with just stacking up some wood off-cuts > beware! Don't do this unless you are sure about what you are doing.






djkeev wrote:
This unit is a lot of work!

For a vehicle that will simply sit for endless months between uses, many issues will quickly reappear. Rusty seized brakes for one.
Is this practical?
How many years will it be, using the brief time slots you seem to have, before you have a vehicle you can actually use?

It may be more cost effective and certainly easier to simply rent a vehicle while you visit.

Dave



Thanks Dave for your concern and advice - but several of your assumptions are not quite correct.

I could be driving this van fine tomorrow if I really wanted to... it just needs a battery and a coolant patch to get going... everything else is working fine.
But I have no intention or need to use this van as a daily driver while in Canada for 1 or 2 months per year. If I don't actually have a trip to go on I won't even insure it... it will just be sitting in my Mom's backyard as an extra bedroom for me since my Mom lives in the most expensive part of the one of the most expensive cities in the world.... one of the primary purposes of the van is simply to have something like a tiny self-contained "suite" in our backyard for me to use so that my Mom (elderly now with small income) doesn't need to evict the upstairs tenant for one month every year when I come to visit.

Furthermore I see this van partly as an investment. Why keep a few thousand bucks in the bank when you can have a van to slowly and enjoyably fix up, use on trips, use as an extra bedroom, then perhaps eventually sell for a profit?

Last but not least, maybe a surprize to you, but I love these vans and get incredible pleasure working on them and also driving them and just sitting in them.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 8:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

dobryan wrote:
Now Dave. We do not own these vehicles because they are cost effective or easy...
. Gospel...... Wink
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 6:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

Now Dave. We do not own these vehicles because they are cost effective or easy...
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 3:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

This unit is a lot of work!

For a vehicle that will simply sit for endless months between uses, many issues will quickly reappear. Rusty seized brakes for one.
Is this practical?
How many years will it be, using the brief time slots you seem to have, before you have a vehicle you can actually use?

It may be more cost effective and certainly easier to simply rent a vehicle while you visit.

Dave
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 3:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Abscate wrote:
Igeo wrote:
The stack of cut-offs that you are using for a jack stand is unsafe.
Getting squished under your van would severely hinder your progress.


I missed that. Thanks for calling that out. Ed, please take note.


Wood cribbing is actually very safe as there is a lot of friction between the blocks themselves and between the blocks and the metal of the car, they also offer a large bearing area if you are not working on concrete, which I seldom ever have the privilege of doing. I detest jack stands as you can slide a car around on them too easily. The only time I ever had a car fall was when I had two tires removed and was working underneath and slid the frame on the jackstands, fortunately my policy when using jack stands is to lay a tire underneath and block it to the frame which kept the car from coming down much at all. I will take wooden blocks any day over jack stands.


The people who know how to crib aren't posting here, and if you don't know how to crib, its much more dangerous. If you scroll up and look at the reference picture, you can decide which applies here,easily.


What little I can pick up of the lower level of blocking looks fine as does the quality of the wood. Yes the top board is running in the wrong direction but even if it split it would likely not allow the frame rail before it dropped very much. Assuming he is working on dirt or gravel, cribbing is just going to be better than a jack stand that lacks bearing and has a high probability of sinking unevenly or just plain collapsing. A piece of 3/4" plyboard laid on top of his upper board to prevent the board from splitting would make his crib that much better.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 2:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Abscate wrote:
Igeo wrote:
The stack of cut-offs that you are using for a jack stand is unsafe.
Getting squished under your van would severely hinder your progress.


I missed that. Thanks for calling that out. Ed, please take note.


Wood cribbing is actually very safe as there is a lot of friction between the blocks themselves and between the blocks and the metal of the car, they also offer a large bearing area if you are not working on concrete, which I seldom ever have the privilege of doing. I detest jack stands as you can slide a car around on them too easily. The only time I ever had a car fall was when I had two tires removed and was working underneath and slid the frame on the jackstands, fortunately my policy when using jack stands is to lay a tire underneath and block it to the frame which kept the car from coming down much at all. I will take wooden blocks any day over jack stands.


The people who know how to crib aren't posting here, and if you don't know how to crib, its much more dangerous. If you scroll up and look at the reference picture, you can decide which applies here,easily.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 2:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

To each his/her own. That condition of the wood being unknown, from a distance represents to me a very possible risk of a piece splitting and a subsequent accident. A frame firmly supported by a jackstand is safer with less liklihoiod of toppling. I know- they raise houses on wood cribbing. That wood is selected for the purpose.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 1:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
Igeo wrote:
The stack of cut-offs that you are using for a jack stand is unsafe.
Getting squished under your van would severely hinder your progress.


I missed that. Thanks for calling that out. Ed, please take note.


Wood cribbing is actually very safe as there is a lot of friction between the blocks themselves and between the blocks and the metal of the car, they also offer a large bearing area if you are not working on concrete, which I seldom ever have the privilege of doing. I detest jack stands as you can slide a car around on them too easily. The only time I ever had a car fall was when I had two tires removed and was working underneath and slid the frame on the jackstands, fortunately my policy when using jack stands is to lay a tire underneath and block it to the frame which kept the car from coming down much at all. I will take wooden blocks any day over jack stands.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 12:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

Igeo wrote:
The stack of cut-offs that you are using for a jack stand is unsafe.
Getting squished under your van would severely hinder your progress.


I missed that. Thanks for calling that out. Ed, please take note.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:53 am    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
The problem is if you want to run it the whole way, its diameter is larger than the original steel pipe and you will have to do some clearancing of the crossmembers.


Good point.... I did this job on my Czech van with both hoses/pipes, and finally I didn't have to grind away anything, but if I remember correctly I ran one of the smaller heater hoses thru a different path (I only had 3 hoses bunched together).
From this thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:51 am    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

The stack of cut-offs that you are using for a jack stand is unsafe.
Getting squished under your van would severely hinder your progress.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:46 am    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

epowell wrote:
It would be easy enough to buy 5 meters of good rubber hose and just fix it in a couple of hours. I think I'll do that....
One question/observation: I think it is very common for the steel pipes to rust right back there at the downslope... but it seems like only one of the pipes rusts - the other not so much. I wonder why just one pipe, and why at the downsloping part? My guess is that the pipe going TO the RAD (much hotter water) must be the one that rusts.


You can get marine coolant hose to do this. The problem is if you want to run it the whole way, its diameter is larger than the original steel pipe and you will have to do some clearancing of the crossmembers.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 5:28 am    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

epowell wrote:
It would be easy enough to buy 5 meters of good rubber hose and just fix it in a couple of hours. I think I'll do that....
One question/observation: I think it is very common for the steel pipes to rust right back there at the downslope... but it seems like only one of the pipes rusts - the other not so much. I wonder why just one pipe, and why at the downsloping part? My guess is that the pipe going TO the RAD (much hotter water) must be the one that rusts.


That would do it. A short piece of exhaust tube and a few rubber couplers from the home depot waste-pipe section would do it as well - maybe even some 1-1/4 or 1-1/2" abs for a temp fix.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 4:12 am    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

Once you remove the black rust trappingmatwrial, you’ll find the other justice as rusty

Laughing
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2019 4:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

It would be easy enough to buy 5 meters of good rubber hose and just fix it in a couple of hours. I think I'll do that....
One question/observation: I think it is very common for the steel pipes to rust right back there at the downslope... but it seems like only one of the pipes rusts - the other not so much. I wonder why just one pipe, and why at the downsloping part? My guess is that the pipe going TO the RAD (much hotter water) must be the one that rusts.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2019 3:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Hammering on brake drum with axle nut loose? Reply with quote

MarkWard wrote:
Yes 3 min is a long time. Drive it to where you want to drain and flush the cooling system. Fill with conventional water and drive it back. Then drain the water out. You are good for storing.

Somewhere there is a thread where they used a ShopVac to empty the cooling system. I’ve not done that, but it sounded like a clean way to do it.


I would recommend to never fill the system with water and then drain it hoping to make it through the winter. There is no guaranty that the water will not be trapped somewhere and break something when it freezes.
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