Might be the end of the 70

[joey1320]

Great ending to the story.
_________________
1971 Super - Sold
1984 Puma GTC - Sold
1971 Campmobile

[J-Gaz.]

[VW_Jimbo]

Glad you figured it out! And that you found Jerry!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[J-Gaz.]

UPDATE:

Engine Is Running in top form.

Drilled to 8 dowel & New clutch assembly.
Rear Seal in great shape.

HOWEVER: the Oil leak persisted.

Took it back to Jerry & He noticed that one of the oil galley plugs was pushed in a little too far & Oil was seeping/Pushing/Gushing Past & it presented as a Main Seal Leak would.

Back in 2014, I had a Post about seasonal maintenance issues. Back then I didn't have an issue with the Flywheel coming loose, but I was under the impression that every main seal I put in leaked...

I had done about 3 I think to try to solve the issue.

It was back then that I again replaced the main seal & didn't get the torque of the flywheel correct, which caused my gland nut to loosen and flywheel to wobble -> which in turn caused the ovaled out dowel pin holes in the crankshaft.

@72Pstroke Made mention of it back then in 2014, but I didn't really know what I was looking at or for, AND "Assumed" that because the case was a new Mag AS41 that was not drilled for full flow, that the oil galley plugs would have been pressed in and installed correctly from the factory...

They were not.

If you care to see that thread, it is here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=20

Regardless. It has been a long journey to get this thing Potty Trained, but as of now, it is no longer marking it's the spot.

I appreciate all the help.

Next on the list is:
Tidying up the wiring, Fuses & Lights & Turnsignals.
Window Scrapers
New shocks & Urethane Grommets (if needed)
Fix a hole in the Pan.
Remove Rotten and torn interior (back window & Luggage Tray)
Front & Rear Window Rubber
Add some sound deading.
Adjust the Bonnet up front so it opens easier...
Replace all the fresh air Paper/Foil Tubes & Dash vents.

Basically, everything except the engine now, assuming it stays leak free... HA!
_________________
1970 Beetle | Basically Stock 1600 SP

[J-Gaz.]

[Cusser]

Yep, your dowel holes are all ovaled out.

When getting the new holes drilled, let the shop to supply new dowels, and even consider letting them install the new oil seal, dowels, flywheel, and gland nut. I'd go with a new gland nut/washer too.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Tim Donahoe]

After you have new dowel holes drilled, buy a new set of dowels, and maybe new crank shims, a new flywheel, and flywheel seal (get the orange Elring one, and don’t forget the o-ring), do yourself a favor—especially since you saved so much money on a new motor you didn’t really need.

Buy a Torquemeister tool. Actually, EMPI makes a good knockoff for $95–no shipping or tax from Cipi1. Use this tool to set your flywheel gland nut to 253 ft. lbs. It’s easy to use. Just set your torque wrench to 28 ft. lbs. and that gets you to 252 ft. lbs. on the nut. Tighten a hair more and you’re home free. No measuring your weight, or standing on a 3/4 inch breaker bar, X number of inches away from the center of the gland nut. None of that.

Easy-peasy.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[J-Gaz.]

UPDATE:

After some research looking for a long block or complete motor yesterday, and some phone calls . . .

I made it back up to the shop this morning . . .

Funny enough, they called me as I was about a mile away.


What they said and what I (originally) heard was 2 different things.

I heard bent Crank, needs total rebuild over the phone.

What they told me in the shop & on that 2nd call was: "no not bent crank, bent dowel pins.

Then, I got to the shop moments later (930 AM) & Talked with them there - (Pictures If I can figure how to Post them...)

So here's the deal (Long story Tolerable)

They are not a machine shop and for them to guarantee the work, it would need full rebuild - Because, even if they found a shop to drill out the bad holes, they couldn't warranty the motor. So for them, there is too much risk.

Makes sense enough.

SO They Recommended a machine shop (Who, by the way, I thought retired because the last time I tried to reach out to Jerry his number was dead...)

Turns out Jerry is in his 3rd location since I last had him do any work.

Since he has been threating to retire the last 13 years, I figured he did when I couldn't reach him about 5 years ago...

Regardless - I got Jerry's new number (NW connecting Rod) from the Guys at the shop and after 3 calls and VM I finally connected with him.

Anyone that's met Jerry knows he's a Straight shooter and a No BS guy. If he says he can, he can, if he says he can't, he cant & If he doesn't want to, he'll tell you.

His shop is set up to drill crank shafts for 8 dowels pins with the Crank in the Case. He can resurface and mate and match without splitting the case halves.

it was sometime after noon when I finally got ahold of Jerry.
So then I drove the motor from Edmonds to Auburn (35 miles or so) and scheduled a Tow Truck to take the body down later in the day.

Jerry is booked solid about 2.5 weeks out but should have some answers from him Wednesday the 11th (+/- a day or so).

I think the 70 might get through this after all...

We'll know more in early Dec.

_________________
1970 Beetle | Basically Stock 1600 SP

[Zundfolge1432]

The bent crank scenario is complete bullshit, never seen it or heard of it before. If they’ll BS about that what other lies are told. ? Seen more than one loose flywheel problem fixed by dressing end of crank flat, four new holes, use new dowels and a serviceable flywheel. This assumes end play was correct before the carnage. Pack the end with grease to catch metal shavings from drilling new dowel holes. Been there done it way less than 3800. Somebody is getting hosed here.

[Cusser]

[J-Gaz.]

@ Floating VW
Thanks for this

I have to say though, The Shop is connected to the VW club scene & really don't believe they are just making up a number to get me to walk.

If it did bend the flywheel, then none of the journals will be aligned & it will either need to be Bored - or a new case.

My understanding is that the price tag is for a ground-up new motor & Already told me he sends stuff out to a machine shop if it needs the case split.

[J-Gaz.]

@Cusser,

Yeah, he pulled it.
and last I ran it I did notice the Front (Rear) Crank Pully Wobble so bad it through the Generator Belt.

I didn't know what to make of the wobble but do now.

It's not something I mentioned to the Shop when I took it in either...

[J-Gaz.]

[jlex]

Well said, Floating VW!
_________________
jlex.
'70 std. "Elsie"
'88 Carrera

[Floating VW]

Let me tell you a little story that might give you some inspiration:

In the late 90's, I relocated from northern Indiana to Anchorage, AK, and drove my Bug to get there. It had a single-port 1500 in it back then (a tougher mule there never was!). A few weeks after I arrived, I took it to get it smogged (back then the car was still "new" enough to require emissions testing to get it registered). On the way to the shop, I heard a strange "PING" and felt the engine shudder briefly, but it kept running so I didn't stop. It failed the smog test, and on the way home, every time I stopped at an intersection or took a right-hand curve too fast, blue smoke would pour out of the exhaust. At the time, I was living at an apartment complex that had an empty gravel parking lot beside it, so I parked my car there and did some investigating. Turns out the #3 wrist pin clip had popped loose (that was the "PING" I heard) and chewed a huge hole into the cylinder wall. So I tore it down right there in the dirt and mud and replaced the cylinder and piston, took it back to get it smogged, and passed with flying colors.

Several years later, my girlfriend at the time decided to leave Anchorage and move back to Massachusetts, and I decided to follow her (she ended up breaking up with me two weeks after I arrived in Mass., but that's a different story!). Once again, I drove my Bug all the way across the country to get there, and just as I was pulling into the driveway of the apartment she had rented (also gravel, and also full of dirt and mud), I hear a loud grinding sound coming from the back of the car. So, I dropped the engine right there in the dirt and sure enough, discovered that the flywheel had come loose. Just like you, and just like the time in Alaska, I didn't have a garage to work in, so I tore it down in the dirt and mud, drilled out the dowel pin holes with a hand drill, hammered in some larger dowels, and torqued that flywheel down as tight as I could get it.

Over the next few years, I ended up driving that Bug back to the mid-west, then down to Miami and back again, and then out to San Diego by way of Denver, where I finally replaced that old 1500 single-port with a beautiful (and very expensive!) mill that I had been planning to build for 30 years or so. Now, it is a work of art.

So ask me if I think it was worth all the suffering and money and doubt and frustration.

Every bit of it!

I will leave you with a quote that always helps get me through whenever I am frustrated with a project and feel like giving up:

"We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard; because that goal will serve to organize and measure the best of our energies and skills, because that challenge is one that we are willing to accept, one we are unwilling to postpone, and one we intend to win, and the others, too." -John F. Kennedy

[Tim Donahoe]

When I mentioned that vintage car owners are better off doing most of the work on their cars, I meant “most” of the work. This did not include such items as rebuilding an engine, or transmission. These are items I prefer to farm out. Almost everything else is another matter. Maintenance, interior restoration, brakes, etc., can be accomplished without having a garage, of course.

And, back in the day, millions owned these bugs without having a place to work on them; but back then, those cars were relatively new, and before the Idiot Book was published, most Of those owners relied upon the VW dealer, or the thousands of VW shops to keep their cars running.

Today, 95% of those VW shops are gone, and VW dealers don’t have the expertise to work on forty-year-old cars. Also, the cars are older, and subsequently require more than just maintenance.

I’ve pulled my engine a good five or six times since I bought it in 2012. In 1970, I didn’t even change my own oil. You just took it down to the dealer and he changed it, adjusted the valves, carb, whatever. If you wanted to save money, you had a local non-authorized VW shop do the work. One, I remember in Antioch, Ca, actually cleaned your windows as a courtesy.

Those days of relatively inexpensive farmed-out car maintenance are gone. Our bugs are old. If we want them to be reliable, we pretty much have to replace all the moving parts ourselves.

Vintage car ownership today is simply a hands-on endeavor (unless you have a budget that allows a mechanic to do the work).

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[bluebus86]

Also, for the gland nut and rear wheel nut, I dont use a torque wrench, I know my weight, and length of the lever arm I need to stand on to give me the correct torque. Simple, and effective. Using a weight and known lever length is how wrenches can be calibrated, Used to work in a place that calibrated them regularly this way, known weight and lever length for flight hardware for NASA.
_________________
Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information

Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[Cusser]

[challomoner]

Thing is with selling vws is regret, I've regretted selling all mine. Just something else to consider. That said an old EF civic would be a cool reliable classic, they are great cars and need little maintenance. My first car was an EF Civic and had 330,000 miles on the clock when I sold it, 330,000 trouble free miles I might add.

[bluebus86]

You can obtain a motor for less money than what you posted. you may consider an used motor as well. as for owning a classic car with no place to work on it, keep in mind millions of folks owned Bugs as daily drivers with no place to work on them.
Of course doing a restoration requires work space, but to maintain it, not much expensive work needs be farmed out.

even with limited space, general stuff like a valve adjust, oil change and tune up can be done in a parking lot in under an hour. You do NOT need a full,on shop, nor even a garage to maintain a Bug, anymore so than if you own a brand new toyota.

Keep the Bug if the body is sound, and she is relatively rust free. source a less expensive engine if need be.
Join a local aircooled VW club, you may find friendly like minded folks there that may offer you assistance in general maintenance, maybe some one has a good used motor for you, maybe club folks can help you with a motor swap. a motor swap can be done in under an hour in a driveway with basic tools, a jack and stands

Good Luck, Keep the Bug!
_________________
Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information

Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022