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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician

Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 3342 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2022 12:45 am Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Zezdy wrote: |
...rear floor pan was "patched" by a previous owner. Even the rudimentary repair was completely rusted through...On the plus side, I found $0.32 and an earing!. |
Lol. I like your positive outlook! Keep going. _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help. |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 11:59 am Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Cleaned up some of the paint and undercoat around the spot welds of the heater channels.
I also peeled the seam sealer on the rear half of the heater channels.
I measured my door gaps, which are 36 1/2 inches at the narrowest points on both sides. I took three measurements on each door; bottom, middle, and where the metal starts to bend for the window.
I'm also in the process of making a jig out of some scrap lumber lying around. The theory is that it marks the frame mount bolts that are rotted. |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2022 12:43 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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I cleaned up the floor pan shelf around the tunnel and frame head. While tapping around the body mounts on the passenger's side, I ended up with a large pile of rust underneath the mounts. They aren't quite as bad as the driver's side, but still need patched or replaced. Now I just wait for the funds for new pants and heater channels!
I've blown out the majority of the rust from the frame head, and it still looks structurally sound. I'll convert the rust and then put some of Eastwood's internal frame coating down the length of the tunnel.
I also cut out a couple of rusted through panels on the body. I followed VWJimbo's advice from other threads and cut out panels with radius'd corners.
I also started cleaning some of the misc. nuts, bolts, and washers that I've had bagged and tagged for a while. I've been using Evapo-Rust with pretty good success. After that, I wash them with water, dry them off, and put them in a 5lb Harbor Freight tumbler with fine walnut shells. Here are the end results:
Again, I can't thank you all enough for all of the feedback, as well as knowledge elsewhere on the forum. It is indeed priceless! |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2022 7:05 am Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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I started some work on the front frame head. The driver's side, as you can see, is nearly completely rusted through.
I drilled out the spot welds and cleaned up the metal that I could.
I'll cut out the bottom portion, and probably half way into the body mount holes. I want to leave as much of the metal as I can to serve as a guide for the patch to avoid alignment issues. I'll also coat the inside of the Napoleon hat with rust converter and interior frame coating while this portion is taken apart. |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 6:18 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Rome, those are all great observations. Thanks for pointing them out; I learned a lot in one post!
I also like the factory wheels. I'm planning on either re-painting them silver or chroming them.
I've been practicing a little, but not a ton. The local community college is offering a welding class on Saturdays, but unfortunately I can't make it due to my work schedule. |
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Rome Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004 Posts: 10544 Location: Pearl River, NY
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Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 7:55 am Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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getting the seatbelts out. All the bolts came out super easily. I marked the seatbelt locations with tape and taped the hardware to each corresponding belt. |
Good. The belt bolts have a specific installation sequence with a rigid washer, and a plastic one which allows the mount to swivel. Years down the road when you are ready to reassemble, your taped fastener sequence will save you time.
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Off came the fenders. These two are significantly more rusted than the front two, and I'm not sure what my best course of action is here. |
Your rear fenders could very well be the factory originals. Best to keep them and fix the rust along the front bottom ends (naval jelly, Evapo-Rust, white vinegar, Ospho, etc.). Notice how both taillamps are (nearly*) at the same height, and not too low? How the bottom rear tips of the fenders match the bottom edge of the rear apron? Most aftermarket fenders deviate from these clues, with the taillamp holes being a few inches farther down; and that the rear tips are a finger-width longer at the end by the apron.
* Your left taillamp looks to be slightly lower down the fender than the right one. Like maybe 1/2" at most. You can use the outward kink of the fenders' inner edges as a horizontal line, then notice that the small hole in the fender for the lower taillamp mount is slightly below that imaginary line than the right taillamp's lower hole. Here's an official corporate press photo of a '67. The green horizontal line based at the outward kinks is what I described above and would pertain to your '70 to determine the height difference of your taillamps.
If you decide to change/equalise the height of the taillamp mounting holes, I'd use the right fender as the correct one because it has the same light yellow as the rest of the body, whereby the left fender is not that color.
The rear apron? Looks saveable by un-denting on the left, and careful bending of the bottom curve/channel at the lower right.
Not yet mentioned: Your wheels were originally all silver from the factory- '70 was the first year for this. IMO Beetles look best with the factory wheel paint scheme, not painted white, black or body color.
Have you practiced welding some more? |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2022 9:04 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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It's been awhile since I've had time to work. A lot of it is just a case of not knowing where to go next. I've decided to completely replace the front beam, and I think I'll just buy it pre-assembled.
I started working my way back and finally got the pans out. The driver's side is especially bad, and rusted to the Napoleon hat and body mounts. I'll have to cut out that portion. Additionally, there was quite a bit of rust on the tunnel near the pedal cluster.
I also started scraping the grease from the CV joints and transaxle. I'll disassemble one at a time, clean them, and replace.
I also purchased a 5lb tumbler that I've filled with walnut shells. It really does a great job of cleaning parts! |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2022 2:26 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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After some poking at the rust spots, and some reading on the forums, I noticed that the rust goes all the way through the beam on the passenger's side. I'm not sure if it's completely unsalvageable, but it is for me. I'm going to get a new front beam and hardware, rather than putting a questionable beam back on. If anyone would be interested in this one if they think they can salvage it, just let me know!
I've also got a new glovebox door for the glovebox mod. I think it will work perfectly! |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2022 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Starting to spray down the front beam. What should I do about the rust near the top of the shocks and on the bottom of the left side of the beam?
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2022 8:38 am Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Good catch! That was the plan at the time. I just don't want to spend $20k on a driveline. So for the moment, I think we're going to stay ICE. |
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Buggeee Samba Member

Joined: December 22, 2016 Posts: 4931 Location: Stuck in Ohio
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2022 8:01 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Well, progress has obviously been slow! I took a step back and saw too much in front of me. I spent some time deciding how I was going to break this project down into pieces, and decided that I'd go from the front back.
I was trying to figure out how to check if bearings and all the linkage up front is bad or not. I figure there's a tolerance some place for shim paper, but I went with the old, "if it's tight, it's good." Nothing up front has any play, so I'm going to leave the front beam as is for the most part. I am, however, going to replace the shocks and all the bad rubber. In short, the front beam is off! I'll spend some time de-greasing and cleaning it. Afterwards, I'll treat with naval jelly and Por-15.
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Wed May 11, 2022 3:32 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Engine is out!
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Matt Wilson Samba Member

Joined: November 14, 2005 Posts: 2425 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Sun May 08, 2022 8:48 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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You can certainly add front disc spindles like Karmann Ghia's used and retain a stock ride height. Be sure to get backing plates and check caliper to wheel clearance. I had a set recently where I had to remove quite a bit of material from the calipers to allow the wheel to spin. _________________ 1972 Standard Beetle
1969 Baja Beetle |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Thu May 05, 2022 2:42 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Looking at the body a little closer, I don't think there are going to be many patches I have to do. I think there will be a few fender bolt holes to do, and a patch or two at the back. What do you guys think?
Front, driver's side front fender/heater channel
Far front, bottom, driver's side fender. The gap on the left goes straight to the frame head bolt, female end.
The Underside of the luggage compartment:
The underside of the passenger's rear luggage compartment/heater channel:
And the same on the driver's side:
A few questions going forward...
Is it necessary to completely rebuild the front beam? My plan right now is to pressure wash it, clean it up, degrease it, and coat it.
I'll be doing a front, disc brake conversion. I think I'm going to run the stock tire size and bolt pattern. Do I have to get a narrowed beam or drop spindles? The roads where I live have some bad potholes and railroad tracks, so I don't particularly want to lower if I don't have to. Also, the finished car will probably have a couple hundred extra pounds in the luggage area by the gas tank, as well as a targeted torque of about 170 lb ft. if that makes any difference. The car will be a seasonal daily driver. I'm looking at the kit on JBugs from EMPI.
My plan is to start at the front beam and work my way back. After cleaning the beam, I plan on treating it with Naval Jelly and then Por 15. Thoughts? |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Wed May 04, 2022 10:41 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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The body is finally off to a couple of good friends. I don't see anything that looks terrible that I didn't know about already. Good stuff!
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Mon May 02, 2022 3:15 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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After about a half hour of poking and prodding in the shop, I came to the conclusion that my hangup was most likely coming from where one of my frame head bolts broke off right at the head. I crawled under, and sure enough, it looked like there was just enough to hold the pan to the body.
I got a couple of pieces of scrap lumber that I had lying around and put them under the front, passenger's wheel well. I commenced to prying and sure enough, "pop!" The bolt dislodged, and now I have full separation up front. I'm going to try and remove the body with the engine in, but we will see. It will come off eventually, I would just prefer to do it with the body off. I thnk I have everything disconnected at the engine, and hopfeully just need a couple people to lift it off onto the cart.
Thanks hedgedjsf for the cart plan. That thread is here;
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=519213&highlight=
Also, I'm not sure how effective my frame braces are. I open the driver's side door, and it drops about an inch now. Oh well, I'll deal with it when the time comes. |
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AircooledBackcorner Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2017 Posts: 55 Location: the Netherlands
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Posted: Mon May 02, 2022 2:36 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Great project and indeed a very nice Beetle!
Be sure I’m going to follow your progress! |
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Matt Wilson Samba Member

Joined: November 14, 2005 Posts: 2425 Location: Colorado
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Mon May 02, 2022 1:42 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Inside the cab? |
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