Crazy Electric Issue/Alternator

[Michaellatini]

Ah ha! I was on a different page! Thank you again, Ashman!

[ashman40]

In case it is not clear for other readers in the future...
If you create a new distribution point for constant battery power in the trunk... the source wire coming from the VR/battery runs directly to this new distribution point. This replaces the headlight switch as the distribution point. From this new distribution point, wires run to power the...

Headlight switch (There will now only be one red wire running to the headlight switch. All the other red wires coming off the headlight switch get moved to the new distribution point.)
Ignition switch
Fuse box
Anything else that should be connected to the battery (eg. relays)

_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Michaellatini]

[ashman40]

If you cannot find a good quality terminal splitter you may have to resort to a distribution block for constant battery power in the trunk.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DYNKWVR2/
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3X8SJR3/
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Michaellatini]

This is what I have in mind. The new headlight switch has 2 #30 spades coming off of the side.

Will this work?

Thank you,

M

[Michaellatini]

[quote="ashman40"]

[Michaellatini]

Took the alternator to a reputable repair shop here in MD. They tested it and said, it's garbage, take it back to the people that stole your money!

It was rebuilt by, Pertronix and sold by Summit Racing. Neither company wants to take any responsibility.

I only say this because what is wrong with it was there from day 1. I am done with both companies and suggest you stay away from them also.

Michael

[talljordan]

CIP sells a 90A drop in alternator, which is more than enough for any needs you could possibly have.

If you do the 200A, I hope you upgrade all the wires in your car as well, you don't want those melting. You'll also need to retune your carb, 200A is more than 3HP, so it could stall out your engine.
_________________
1972 Super Beetle, Parked until adequate restoration funding is acquired in restoration!

Wanted: Male computer diagnostic plug end

[vamram]

[Michaellatini]

Thanks again, Ashman.

200 AMPS?!?! Wow. I have seen the conversion in several pictures and addition too. Guessing the addition original alternator might be gutted. No clue.


Good luck with the AC project. I tied 2 of the vents into the rear air feed under the back seat so I have dry air to the windshield in the rain, hot or cold outside. Works great. Put the air unit behind the back seat and have a cutout switch on the compressor for the winter. When you turn on the fan and open the heater boxes it get hot in the car quick and great for around town driving. If it's too moist inside, flip the compressor switch on and heated dry air!

M

[ashman40]

[Michaellatini]

Thank you, Ashman!

I will do as you suggested with the wiring for the relay.

Once I get the alternator out and the new VR in I will follow up with you on the above advice.

Your alternator appears to be producing enough charge to keep your electrical system running and also recharge the battery. Am I correct?

Yes, you are correct. Last night the light came on while driving and stayed on bright and then this morning it was back to the usual.

Is this a High Output VR?

The add said it was for 90 amp or 55 amp. I hope it is for 90.

I have a belt driven A/C compressor. Sure would love the convenience of the electric but, I agree, lots of amps.

M

[ashman40]

[Michaellatini]

Ashman, is this the idea for the relay? (inside the circle)

[Michaellatini]

Yeah, it seems like you have isolated it down to the VR inside the alternator. I hope you can still exchange it.


Will not be able to exchange it since I bought it in December, 2022. I looked at the pics I took of the box when it arrived and it had been opened before and taped back. Didn't think much about it at the time. Called Summitt Racing to let them know since the issue has been there since first start up. They said, call Pertronix! No. I ordered another Bosch regulator from Topline today.


Yeah, that is a pretty big voltage drop, but how is it you get a 12.1v reading on the black #15 wire coming from the ignition switch but your table indicates there is only 11.7v at the fuses?

Sorry, to clarify, coming from the fuse box. I got that voltage at the spade disconnected from D+ to see the V drop to the engine bay. The V through the fuse was also, 12.1.

12v Bosch/Tycho style relay you could add the relay onto the black #15 wire coming off the ignition.

I will check out this option, thanks again.

M

[ashman40]

[Michaellatini]

Hello Ashman,

Thank you so much for all of your help with this issue.

Here are the results.

Yesterday I checked the voltage at the D+ while the wire was still connected to the alt terminal. Today with it disconnected and the key on engine off, 11.27 volts from the fuse box.

With the 2W bulb connected directly from D+ to B+ the bulb stays lit when starting the engine and goes out when it is revved above 1600 or so and the voltage at D+ does not increase when revving the engine with the wire connected. I guess bad VR, YAY for the solution.

Today the battery had 12.6 volts at the battery terminals with the key on not running and the voltage going into the ignition switch was, 12.59V. Voltage coming out of the switch to the fuse box on wire #15 was only, 12.1 so, seems that the switch is the culprit for the V drop. I will see if cleaning it up will improve if not, replace it.

Thanks again,

M

[ashman40]

[Michaellatini]

Thank you, Ashman, for all of the explanations. I will do as suggested and let you know. The ignition switch is the original part from 1968 so I will try the bulb across the B+ to D+ and see what that does first. Then test from there.

M

[ashman40]