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EVfun 
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 6148
Location: Seattle
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 Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2025 8:23 pm Post subject: Re: Ran out of fuel now won’t start after adding fuel |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| RMD3819 wrote: |
| About a block from the house wife ran out of fuel in the 69. |
Important: was wife departing from the house or "trying to make it home" !
Of course Mrs. Cusser would NEVER have such happen to her - right !!!!
Anyway, most likely this is super-related to running out of gas. With air in the line from tank to fuel pump, typically one needs to prime through the carburetor with hydrocarbon such as starting fluid (as others have noted), until the engine rpm pull gasoline through. Fuel pumps are made to pump liquids such as gasoline, not air. |
Uh... A whole bunch of VW Bugs were sold without gas gauges, instead relying on a reserve tap on the bottom of the gas tank. The gas pump had to draw fuel back every time one of those reminded you it was time to visit a gas station. Plenty often it had to do that with the 6 volt starter motor. I've had 4 old Bugs with reserve taps instead of gas gauges.
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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denis4x4
Samba Member
Joined: September 04, 2024
Posts: 27
Location: Durango CO
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| Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2025 3:58 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Where are the locations for the serial numbers for the front and rear axles on a 63 beetle? |
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mukluk
Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7452
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2025 6:22 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| denis4x4 wrote: |
| Where are the locations for the serial numbers for the front and rear axles on a 63 beetle? |
Look on the right front bump stop horn and the lower right side of the trans.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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RMD3819
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Joined: January 04, 2024
Posts: 38
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2025 11:19 am Post subject: Re: Ran out of fuel now won’t start after adding fuel |
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| mukluk wrote: |
| RMD3819 wrote: |
My non VW neighbors have suggested using the following in the carb:
-Carb cleaner (which I have)
-Starting fluid (which I don’t have)
-Fuel directly in the carb.
Thoughts, ideas? |
I would take their advice and use one of those flammable substances down the carb throat to see if the engine will briefly fire up. If it does, pull the fuel hose off at the pump to see if you're getting gas back to that point from the tank or not -- if no gas is getting to the pump, OldSchool's theory is the likely problem. If you are getting fuel to the pump, put the inlet hose back on and remove the outlet hose then have a helper briefly crank the engine while you check to see if the fuel pump is forcing fuel out (fire hazard, be sure you don't have any ignition sources nearby!). If the pump's working, check for obstructions in the hose and filter you have between the pump and carb, and check for a plugged or stuck float needle valve.
If the engine won't briefly fire up when you put some flammable liquid down the carb throat, check to see if you're getting spark to the plugs. |
Just a drop of fuel in the carb and it fired right up! Thanks for the advice.
To answer Cussser’s question the wife was on her way home...the fuel gauge has been broken for weeks (waiting on parts) and she is the primary driver so..... |
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jinx758
Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2014
Posts: 1024
Location: half a bubble from plumb
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| Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2025 7:29 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Update from Feb 11 ...
Thanks for response Mukluk !
Turns out the back up distributor I installed had the wrong points installed. I had been using that one as a practice model for new car club members.
Must've gotten switched out at the many "shop nights" the car club has held.
The 2barrel squirt was just to rule out fuel delivery problems.
My dwell is now spot-on at 50, timing set at 29* all in with vacuum hose off & carburetor nipple plugged. I rigged a 3" piece of hose with a golf tee.
Works a treat.
Driven many shakedown runs & all seems well - barely bump the key, starts everytime, drive away immediately, drops rite to 900rpms at stops, & no probs with hot starts.
I frustrate myself at times ... stay safe
jinx
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford
It's not unlike the same difference ...
My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor |
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mukluk
Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7452
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2025 10:57 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks for the follow up. 
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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HurpMcDurp
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Joined: March 28, 2022
Posts: 46
Location: Michigan
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| Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2025 8:33 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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New Stupid Question.
If I pull the valve cover off my 72, and turn the engine on. Would I be expected to see oil "pumping/spraying" in a manor that makes a mess?
I am basically seeing nothing but maybe some moisture at the rocker arm about where the bolts go into the head. I am getting a slight screech sound when the engine rpm decreases. (stationary or driving) So I checked to see the valve covers where fairly dry. I removed the oil pressure sensor and gave it a little beans and oil CAME OUT so I suspect the pump itself is fine..maybe a clog. Same within both valve covers, little to no oil. Last I drove it was during our Summer here in MI and I was giving it the beans for a few miles and heard the sound when I got home. Checked the oil valve spring dealeo and it had a little scoring on the piston and I cleaned it up.
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I call it Patches - My 72 body with the heart of 68..driven by a 1991 animal |
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mukluk
Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7452
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2025 10:03 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| HurpMcDurp wrote: |
If I pull the valve cover off my 72, and turn the engine on. Would I be expected to see oil "pumping/spraying" in a manner that makes a mess? |
Don't expect arterial bleeding levels of fluid spurting, but if you have the valve cover off and rev the engine up you should definitely know oil is coming out if things are as they should be. When you pop the valve cover off an engine that's just had a good run, everything in the rocker box should be covered in oil and expect a teaspoon to tablespoon worth to immediately liberate itself and dive down onto your heater box. There will be drips of oil formed or forming on the bottoms of all the valve springs and rocker arms.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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MajorPIle
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Joined: February 15, 2021
Posts: 20
Location: CA
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2025 10:20 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Do torsion bars wear out over time?
My bug is lower on one side than the other. I think maybe the person before me didn't get the torsion bars calibrated correctly to be even on both sides. So while I'm doing the work to adjust that, I wonder if I should just replace both torsion bars while I'm at it.
It's only by a little bit, the second picture shows the gap is bigger over the front and rear tires than the first pic
Lower
Higher
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mukluk
Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7452
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2025 6:32 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| MajorPIle wrote: |
Do torsion bars wear out over time?
My bug is lower on one side than the other. I think maybe the person before me didn't get the torsion bars calibrated correctly to be even on both sides. So while I'm doing the work to adjust that, I wonder if I should just replace both torsion bars while I'm at it. |
Torsion bars can lose some of their springiness over time. The front ones can also have individual leaves fracture, and if that happens on one side of center it can cause a lean to one side. A common cause for leaning or sagging is actually from the torsion bar bushings wearing out. Then there's also the possibility that something in the chassis or suspension is bent or twisted. Keep in mind a lean to one side can be caused by a problem with the front just as well as by the rear.
Personally, I don't see a good reason to pre-emptively plan to replace the torsion bars. I'd pull and inspect them first to see if they have a defect warranting replacement, otherwise reuse them and adjust as needed (be sure to install new bushings).
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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Cusser
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Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33061
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2025 6:42 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| MajorPIle wrote: |
| Do torsion bars wear out over time? |
I say yes. The rear end of my 1971 Convertible sags way more than Mrs. Cusser's rear end !!!
Two decades ago I decided to use Hi-Jackers to raise it rather than deal with the "involved" torsion bar adjustment.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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vamram
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Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 8002
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2025 11:53 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I was away for over a week and just returned to discover that I'd left the dome light on and killed my battery. Yes, I know, I can pull up the rear seat base and charge the battery overnight. BUT....
Can I jump start the Bug by connecting my jumper box's positive cable to the alternator positive stud and the negative cable to the engine block? It's just for the quick turn of the key.
_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke
“If something cannot go on forever, it will stop.”
Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...languishing since 2022.
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Save the Supers!! |
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kpf
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Joined: March 01, 2017
Posts: 1060
Location: California, US
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| Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2025 3:51 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'm not an expert, but the size of the wire coming off of the alternator is nowhere near as thick as the wire that goes from the battery to the starter, so I suspect you won't get the amperage that you'll need (or maybe you'll just fry the wires).
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vamram
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Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 8002
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2025 6:49 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I gave it a shot w/the jumper box and it worked perfectly, no damage at all to any wires. I'm guessing the jumper box doesn't provide the same "umph" as perhaps jumping it from a running car may have. Just a guess.
_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke
“If something cannot go on forever, it will stop.”
Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...languishing since 2022.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33061
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2025 7:16 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| vamram wrote: |
| Can I jump start the Bug by connecting my jumper box's positive cable to the alternator positive stud and the negative cable to the engine block? |
Why is it such a hassle for you to tilt the rear seat up for battery access.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 8002
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2025 9:32 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| vamram wrote: |
| Can I jump start the Bug by connecting my jumper box's positive cable to the alternator positive stud and the negative cable to the engine block? |
Why is it such a hassle for you to tilt the rear seat up for battery access. |
It's a tight fit w/the cross bar at its base, messes up the seat base vinyl. May need to do it anyway, the battery's 5 y/o so may not have long to go.
_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke
“If something cannot go on forever, it will stop.”
Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...languishing since 2022.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33061
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2025 11:04 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| vamram wrote: |
| Cusser wrote: |
| Why is it such a hassle for you to tilt the rear seat up for battery access. |
It's a tight fit w/the cross bar at its base, messes up the seat base vinyl. May need to do it anyway, the battery's 5 y/o so may not have long to go. |
Understand. Haven't some folks mounted accessory positive and negative terminals to the forward-facing side of the panel just in front of the battery? Or in the engine compartment itself?
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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denis4x4
Samba Member
Joined: September 04, 2024
Posts: 27
Location: Durango CO
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| Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2025 10:10 am Post subject: |
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What year engines used this external bolt on dip stick housing? |
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67rustavenger
Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2015
Posts: 11062
Location: Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2025 10:21 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I don't know the years but, Type 3 engines had the dipstick in that location.
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!
There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!
2003 Astrovan? GFYS again, Xevin! 
Don't let your bad ideas remain, ideas! |
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stagewex
Samba Member
Joined: November 17, 2021
Posts: 190
Location: New Rochelle, New York
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| Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2025 7:31 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Really only a stupid question because parts (replacement parts) are so available across the spectrum. Just make/take your pick along all the vendors sites.
The ignition switch/Key switch has finally given up the ghost after 52 years of service. A few times over the last couple months the lights on the speedometer gauge have come on but no click to the starter. I checked the wiring and also the starter and all looks fine. If I turn it back and forth (the key switch) a couple times it will respond in the affirmative. I guess just worn out?
1973 Super Beetle sedan. so 2 questions:
1) Is there any preference or part number or any particular vendor over another? They all seem the same to me though the quality of replacement parts seems to be always a poke-and-hope gamble these days. I've bought a bunch of stuff from Wolfsburg West and of course JBugs over the years.
2) Will I be able to use my original key/tumbler in the new ignition? I'd like to of course.
Thanks |
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