Rust Prevention Product Testing

[theKbStockpiler]

You must have a few rust buckets on your hands as well Evil! I should ask the samba to rename this forum ,'the rust and dent forum'.

I'm using Arm and Hammer powdered laundry detergent.

I'm using it to neutralize the massive flash rusting from Muriatic acid though.

The issue I have with Muriatic acid is it's not much better than vinegar, it adds as much rust as it takes off unless you neutralize it somehow and don't let it dry out. You can't leave it unattended ,let it dry and no one wants to watch acid work on rust for very long.

I'm trying to supersede sandblasting if I have the time to wait for the acid to work as effectively as possible.
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My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask.

[Evil_Fiz]

[c21darrel]

I have used muriatic acid and dont like it for a couple reasons. Unlike phos acid I cant add water to dilute and pour it out on the ground. It isn't as safe as vinegar or phos acid. It smells and burns skin. If it had major benefits over phos or vinegar it may be worth it....but my exploits dont show that. Im sticking with phos and vinegar at this point. I have never used any laundry detergent, good call. Im leaving the muriatic acid in the pool.
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GhiaBuild
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=481184
1967 DC build
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[theKbStockpiler]

Right now I'm mixing my own acid blend and don't see any benefits for more than %30 muriatic acid. Usually I cut phosphoric acid with a little vinager and or muriatic acid which seems to work the best. When it stops being effective I wash it off ,let it dry and go at it again.
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My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask.

[scrivyscriv]

[rodeking]

After reading this whole thread all I can say is that the very best rust preventive coating, bar none, is hot dip galvanizing. Nothing else compares.

I rebuilt a 1990 F150 4x4 and I disassembled and blasted the complete frame and had it hot dipped for $250 about 8 years ago. Then I shot it with epoxy and black urethane, it will last pretty much forever.

Not sure if that would be possible on a bug pan without it warping though.. the hot dip tank is about 800F.

[fubar1962]

I was browsing through the helpful posts about rust proofing. Has anyone used the sealant where the guy cuts the boat in half and reseals it with the product? I have used just the rattle can product for my wheel wells of my 71 Bay Window. Seems to work fine...so far. I also used the 'fat mat' for the entire interior panels, when we completed the ground up. It really cut the road noise a bunch.

On another note, does anyone know where I can get a reman steering gear box for my 71 T2 Bay Window? The PO installed a TRW which is adjusted out to its max. I want 'power steering' back. Thank you in advance. Cheers.

[Mike Fisher]

[Ceckert64]

Okay, I have read this whole thread, and now I’m more unsure of what to use than when I started. My situation is that I will be blasting the underside and wheel wells of my 64 while it’s upside down. My first question is should I use POR-15? The lower 8+ inches of my body had to be replaced, I will be using seam sealer, but I’m very paranoid about rust coming back. I’m using PPG paint 3 part system, epoxy primer, epoxy base coat, and urethane clear coat. My question is should I use this paint system and then put POR-15 over it, bare metal with POR-15 over it, or use the paint system I’m using and put a different type of undercoating on it (rust bullet, master series, etc)? Truck bed liner stuff? Also, what is a good seam sealer to use? I’m in Michigan and live on a gravel road so it needs to hold up to gravel and salt well. Any suggestions appreciated, thanks for the help!
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1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Yellow Tin Top Westfalia -Sold
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop
“Rome” 91 Syncro

[Chickensoup]

question,

so i want to use master series for my chassis but should i just use the silver or should i top coat it? anyone w/ experience?

thanks

[DurocShark]

[Chickensoup]

Ok cool, I happen to like the silver. But will it work well if it take my pan down to bare metal, then prep it with something like phosphoric acid?

Thanks

[DurocShark]

I wire wheeled first, but yeah. Cat piss away!
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No boom today. Boom tomorrow. There's always a boom tomorrow.

[vwsplitman]

If you put the silver MS primer on new metal, I would either rough it up with a 220 grit sandpaper, or use a good metal prep(phosphoric acid) to etch the metal for good adhesion and to get any oils off. When using the MS silver primer by itself and no topcoat, we recommend 3 coats. It doesnt need a topcoat. UV wont affect it. Ive got pieces outside on a daily basis for over 14 years with no bad affects . To topcoat do it within a couple of days. If not then scuff everything down and then topcoat . Done testing and the MS silver by itself easily outlasts epoxy primers and etch primers as far as rusting. Chuck