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KTPhil  Samba Member

Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 35797 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 12:42 pm Post subject: Master cylinder port confusion |
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I'm replacing the original master cylinder on a '71 fastback. I am discovering that there are several different port arrangements on master cylinders. Here is my car (known original since it's been in the family and I have done all the work). This is a view with it installed, from the driver's side underneath (cloth backing it for clarity):
I have a NOS master, ATE part number 03.2119-3713.3; there is no VW part number on either the box or unit. No threads on the flange, so I know it's for a T3, not a T1. Also, the box has a handwritten “SBack” which I take to be for “squareback.” Here is the same view of the new part:
And here's the right:
My problem is connecting the right lines to the right ports. Notice the two different orifice sizes. I would presume that the large orifices are for the switches (since there are two), and the small orifices are for the wheel lines (since there are three).
But if you look at my OG unit, the switches are on opposite sides, not the same side.
This means I would have to change out the brake lines, or get a different new MC.
Some other info... I know of the two types of duals: those with the single-pole switches that use an extra balance piston to actuate the switches, and the later type with a three-pole switches that lack the extra piston. I have the latter. But apparently there are at least two configurations of the latter type.
Check out these repair manual photos. Here is Bentley; this is consistent with the NOS part in that the switches are on the same side.
Here is Elfrink; it's odd in that it has one switch on the end, unlike either my OG or NOS unit. It DOES show, however, that the switches have the large orifices, and the wheels have the small orifices:
Now we get to Clymer, not my favorite source for accurate information. The first photo is not like mine at all; note the angled ports for the switches:
Such a configuration does exist, because there is an ad on the Samba for a NOS part of this type. Tt wouldn't solve my problem of port arrangement, though:
Clymer's second photo shows the switches on the same side, but the SAME size ports on both the switches and the wheel lines:
Taking all this into account, I seem to have a non-standard MC installed from the factory.
Does anyone have photos of a '71 T3 that might confirm this?
My options are to:
1) rebuild the MC I have installed
2) make up a new line for the driver front wheel line (to let it reach the other side of the MC)
3) get a different new MC. I prefer NOS German if I am installing a new unit.
Anyone got a NOS German unit that matches my car?
Anyone have info on making up an extension to my brake line? Thread size, union type, pipe diameter, etc.? I am leaning toward this solution sinc eit leaves the car and the parts unchanged. Of course, the union has to be good and tight.
Thanks! |
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COFBack Samba Member

Joined: July 05, 2005 Posts: 2148 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 8:21 am Post subject: |
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KT
Look in my gallery and previous posts. Funny that your Master Cylinder doesn't look like mine (also a '71 Fastback). Mine could be a replacement but I am the second owner and the car didn't have that many miles on it.
I ended up having Jim Adney rebuild my master. I have one of the later (or is it earlier) model masters in in my parts box but chose not to use it as I didn't feel like building the hard line.
RMS _________________
iowegian wrote: |
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BSQUARE Samba Member

Joined: November 05, 2004 Posts: 1890 Location: Feeling, Minnesota
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Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 5:48 pm Post subject: Re: Master cylinder port confusion |
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KTPhil wrote: |
Such a configuration does exist, because there is an ad on the Samba for a NOS part of this type. Tt wouldn't solve my problem of port arrangement, though:
Thanks! |
i actually purchased this one. It's hard to tell from the ad photo, but the reservoir inlet ports are set at about a 45 degree angle from the mounting flange bolts. i have my doubts as to whether it's actually a type 3 master cylinder, since the inlet tubes would probably interfere with the tie rods.
here's a better picture:
on the orange label it reads:
the other side has 311-611-015 J on a hand written label stapled to the side.
can anybody ID the real application for this master? type 2 maybe? searching the bus galleries, I didn't find any like it.
also, does anybody have a spare new ATE type 3 dual circuit master cylinder they can part with?
PLEASE! _________________ 1968 Regatta Blue Squareback |
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Russ Wolfe Samba Member

Joined: October 08, 2004 Posts: 25187 Location: Central Iowa
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Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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This is the master cylinder I installed today in my 69.
This is the OG one I took out.
In the mean time, I blew the main line between the front and rear while bleeding the brakes. so, It is tomorrow before I can get it done. _________________ Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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Dodgy Samba Member

Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 523 Location: Leicester, UK
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KTPhil  Samba Member

Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 35797 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:39 am Post subject: |
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Well, until I go back and compare books, the following will add to confusion, not remove it, but here goes...
I remember reading about several changes/differences between disc/drum and early/late masters. I think there was a change to remove a check valve that kept slight pressure in the lines not needed/wanted for discs. This might have also been the function of those adapters/fittings that are in some of the early drawings.
I know this doesn't answer the issues, but I would want to understand those changes before assuming which master goes on which brake setup. If I figure it out I'll re-post. |
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BSQUARE Samba Member

Joined: November 05, 2004 Posts: 1890 Location: Feeling, Minnesota
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Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:48 am Post subject: Re: Master cylinder port confusion |
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to alleviate some confusion- after some searching, I've figured out that this is a super beetle master cylinder. _________________ 1968 Regatta Blue Squareback |
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KTPhil  Samba Member

Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 35797 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:16 am Post subject: |
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The angle of the front inlet and the threads on the mounting holes (if that is what I am seeing) also suggest this. But you can see the port configuration is like one of the many T3 types.
The confusion continues... |
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BSQUARE Samba Member

Joined: November 05, 2004 Posts: 1890 Location: Feeling, Minnesota
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Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:31 am Post subject: |
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yes, the mounting holes are threaded. the inlet ports are set about 45 degrees from vertical, away from the reservoir. i found three different brands (brax, varga, and girling) of super master cylinders with the same configuration. this is most definitely NOT a type 3 master cylinder. _________________ 1968 Regatta Blue Squareback |
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jan72 Samba Member

Joined: April 02, 2007 Posts: 167 Location: Romania
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:25 am Post subject: |
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Hi, i know it's an old topic, but the problem is the same: do the lines connect to the ports with small holes and the switches connect to the ports with bigger holes on the left side?
Nevermind, got it:
_________________ '72 Superbeetle
'72 Squareback |
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Russ Wolfe Samba Member

Joined: October 08, 2004 Posts: 25187 Location: Central Iowa
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:58 am Post subject: |
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Lines connect to the ports with the small holes. _________________ Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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66311 Samba Member

Joined: December 31, 2006 Posts: 1477 Location: Olive Branch MS
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:24 am Post subject: Re: Master cylinder port confusion |
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BSQUARE wrote: |
to alleviate some confusion- after some searching, I've figured out that this is a super beetle master cylinder. |
I looked at those before because of the longer collar from the flange. You could use a regular type 3 pushrod. I was looking to get something that was available(new shelf life). Trouble I had was the price so I used beetle MC. I already had the longer pushrod for it. The front resevoir port gets pushed slightly with tierod all the way against the lock on my car. The threads are easy enough to ream out. I think there is also a bus MC that has the front resevoir port stepped down and longer collar?? I have since picked up an NOS type 3 but it's probably best to rebuild due to shelf life. The question I have is the insides because beetle or super beetle are drum right? |
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Russ Wolfe Samba Member

Joined: October 08, 2004 Posts: 25187 Location: Central Iowa
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:14 am Post subject: |
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Beetles were drum brake in the USA, but disc brake in Europe.
Also, the Type 1 Karmann Ghia had disc brakes starting in 1966 the USA. And dual circuits starting in 1967. _________________ Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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jan72 Samba Member

Joined: April 02, 2007 Posts: 167 Location: Romania
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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You don't need to rebuild a NOS pump, there are new ATE units available. Same part number 03.2119-3713.3. Still, the price is around 150$. _________________ '72 Superbeetle
'72 Squareback |
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66311 Samba Member

Joined: December 31, 2006 Posts: 1477 Location: Olive Branch MS
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:06 am Post subject: |
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jan72 wrote: |
You don't need to rebuild a NOS pump, there are new ATE units available. Same part number 03.2119-3713.3. Still, the price is around 150$. |
For me that is what the whole idea is about. The price and how to avoid it. |
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Russ Wolfe Samba Member

Joined: October 08, 2004 Posts: 25187 Location: Central Iowa
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:04 am Post subject: |
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jan72 wrote: |
You don't need to rebuild a NOS pump, there are new ATE units available. Same part number 03.2119-3713.3. Still, the price is around 150$. |
The question is, How is the consumer to know how long that master cylinder he buys in the ATe box has been sitting on the shelf. Many manufacturers date codes are encoded to prevent the consumer from knowing.
VW themselves, said not to use any unit that had been on the shelf more than 2 years.
Brake part manufacturers should do like the diaries. "Best if used before (insert date here)" _________________ Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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KTPhil  Samba Member

Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 35797 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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Russ Wolfe wrote: |
Brake part manufacturers should do like the diaries. "Best if used before (insert date here)" |
Or women.
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Ajvanloo Samba Member

Joined: May 22, 2012 Posts: 27 Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
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Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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Old thread, but maybe some of you are still checking it out... Anyone know what type of master cylinder this is? It came off my '73 fastback and the one I ordered is quite different. The one I ordered has 3 ports on passengers side and 2 on drivers side and 2 on top I believe. This one as you can see has all the ports on one side and on the top. Any clue?
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Bobnotch Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 23347 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 7:08 am Post subject: |
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Judging by the lettering of the casting (below the plastic tube), I'd say it's a Varga. But it looks like a modified super beetle master cylinder, going off the above pics. Someone probably drilled out the mounting threads, and used it as a cheap replacement.  _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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Tram wrote: |
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Ajvanloo Samba Member

Joined: May 22, 2012 Posts: 27 Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
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Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Bob! I don't mind paying for the correct one, but first I need to figure out which one is correct. The switch on top isn't attached to anything so I figured they used it as a plug. There is also a plug on the top far right port (in first pic). I found some that are similar online. The number on the other side starts with a '0029'. I found a few trw (varga) replacements but were slightly different and started with '0025' or '0030'. If I can find the correct one I could probably match it to an ATE. I guess I'll just have to write down the correct ports and match it up with one...
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