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Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics-
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captainpartytime
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 8:56 pm    Post subject: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

Parts from GoWesty
Final drive seals: $15.98/each (x 2)
Caps: $3.95/each (x 2)
Circlips (used): $1.95/each (x 2)
Spacer: $0.49/each (x 2)
Lock ring pliers from Sears $14.00
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Punch through cap with screwdriver and pry out cap
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Remove circlip with lock-ring pliers
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Remove flange, spring washer, and cover
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Drill small hole in oil seal then screw in wood screw. Pull out seal from screw with hammer claw.
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Final drive oil seal removed
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New oil seal installed. I lubed the seal and used a brass punch to carefully install the seal.
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Clean and install cover
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Install flange, spring washer and circlip. I used my plyers and a rubber mallet to compress the flange while installing the new circlip.
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Install new cap, re-pack cv joint bearings, and torque down drive shaft bolts to 45 Nm or 33 ft. lbs.
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She loves it when the tranny doesn't leak anymore!
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Bern
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice write-up. I need to do this on mine, but I think I'm just gonna nut up and get the tranny I want built with the guts I want... now I just need to find a way to win the lotto... Laughing
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70coupyel
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 10:42 pm    Post subject: Super Vangonman Reply with quote

Damn! Floors and seals in one day???
You Da Man

And that cutie dau of yours must love her jungle jim Vanagon!
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Saying that specs are different than dimensions doesn't make sense. Porsche specs/VW specs/engineering specs are nothing but a series of dimensions,sizes,percentages,measurements, etc.

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weatherbill
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how dare you! Send your little girl under there to do the job! What kind of dad are you?......LOL Laughing

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psych-illogical
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remembered seeing this thread a little while ago. I just ordered the parts to do this job on mine (and a half a dozen other nagging little repairs). My only question is based on something shown in the Bentley manual. They show a special puller needed to remove the drive flange. I noticed that you didn't mention anything about that so, did it just pry out easily with a coupla big screwdrivers or what? The puller in the Bentley looks like one that could be easily fabricated but I don't want to go to the trouble if I don't need to.
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rs4-380
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the puller compresses the flange against the spring to releive pressure on the circlip so it's easier to get out. Usually, you can get the flange out without the puller, but it's often hard to get it back in without it (because the flange needs to be compressed far enough to reveal the slot for the circlip). At least that has been my experience on FWD VW trannies, by the looks of the pictorial, it seems that at least in the Original poster's case such a device was not necessary.
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kevinbassplayer
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did this job several months ago and there seemsto be a key component missing. In order to re-install the flange it was necessary to make a special tool with a threaded bolt going through a metal plate to compress the flange back on. I originally tried hammering the thing on with a rubber mallet but there was no way. I'm not sure how you did it without using something to press the flange back on. I also needed to use a standard type gear puller to get the flanges off. Great pictures!
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captainpartytime
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My flange came right off. I rapped on it very gently with a mechanics hammer to try and resonate the metal in order to loosen it. I then hit it a couple times with a rubber mallet and it came off with very little pulling force. I definitely DID NOT need a puller. When I re-assembled the flange I rapped it again pretty hard with my rubber mallet to try and seat the flange. I then opened up the new circlip with my pliers and installed it. The circlip wasn't fully seated so I took my brass punch and very gently tapped the circlip working it around until it finally seated. For me, getting the new seal fully seated was the hardest part. Another poster told me to get a socket that just barely cleared the shaft and tap on it which would push on the flange and force the circlip on. I thought this was a good idea but I didn't have any sockets that big (bigger than 22 mm). I would say that this install was easier than I originally anticipated. It's been almost a month and I haven't seen any tranny fluid leak since! Good Luck!!!
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kevinbassplayer
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lucky! (read with the Napoelean Dynamite voice)
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unibagel
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the speedy and informative response!! I have a couple of questions though.

1. After I remove all of the CV Bolts does the Axle just move out of the way, or do I need to remove entire driveshaft out of the Van?
2. Best case scenario, how long to typically do the job?

Thanks!
Chris
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deprivation
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

unibagel wrote:
1. After I remove all of the CV Bolts does the Axle just move out of the way, or do I need to remove entire driveshaft out of the Van?

Once the CV bolts are off, gravity will do the rest. It might make the job a little easier to just take the whole axle off. And why not take the time to repack the joints while you're in there?
unibagel wrote:
2. Best case scenario, how long to typically do the job?
I replaced my flange seals in a few hours but I tend to work slowly.
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captainpartytime
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took the whole axle off as it made the job a lot easier. I also figured I might as well repack both CV's since I was already doing one side...
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Blix
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still trying to get my head around this job, I'm determined to do this but just need to let it percolate for a week or so first. Trying to get the parts off of busdepot at the moment.

Is this the cap? https://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=002517289A

Do I need Final Drive Seal or Rear Final Drive Seal?

Also what is the spacer piece listed in parts? Can't seem to find that.

I'll take a long look at this when the bentley arrives. Also got the haynes manual maybe it discusses this job as well.

Many thanks to all of you for providing this information and knowledge.
Cool
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blix wrote:

Do I need Final Drive Seal or Rear Final Drive Seal?

Also what is the spacer piece listed in parts? Can't seem to find that.


Bump up to see if there are answers to these questions. Thanks.
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srmpf
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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for that great writeup - did the job today in two hours Wink

some hints from my side:
- to remove the flange I had to use a puller tool (rented that for free at the local autozone).
- I used a 46mm nut to hammer the flange seal into place.
- getting the flange back on needed a bit help of a piece of hardwood and a hammer. driver side was easy, passenger side needed more force.
- a smaller nut (27mm) was a great help to put the final seal/cap in place (together with some RTV).
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86syncrowesty
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just did my driver side seal, wondering, the axle flange seems to have slight play in/out, could that be I seated the seal to deeply? I do also have a Small car speed sensor.
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srmpf
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that doesn't sound right - the flange should sit on the axle with no play at all. you need some force to get it off and later back on again. Some need more, some less force. I would check the seal again, you might end up with some play if the seal is not seated deep enough, IMHO.

86syncrowesty wrote:
Just did my driver side seal, wondering, the axle flange seems to have slight play in/out, could that be I seated the seal to deeply? I do also have a Small car speed sensor.

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86syncrowesty
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, the seal appeared to be seated fully and the circlip acted like it seated fully and doubled checked it to make sure. I will watched it, it may be just a millimeter or less.
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stl_stadtroller
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm in the middle of doing a complete seal-job and reconditioning of my Syncro trans, and I'm at the part where I should be re-installing my drive flanges.

The part that's holding me up are the 4 M7(?) pan head screws which secure the dust cover / retainer.
I had to darn near destroy my screws getting them out, and I'm having a surprisingly hard time sourcing replacements.

Does anyone have a reliable source for these screws?

Not even Google has helped me here, neither has the search on this forum, though it did reveal this thread thankfully!

Thanks all!
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presslab
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stl_stadtroller wrote:
The part that's holding me up are the 4 M7(?) pan head screws which secure the dust cover / retainer.
I had to darn near destroy my screws getting them out, and I'm having a surprisingly hard time sourcing replacements.


Did you use an impact driver to get the screws out?
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ETKA shows the screws as M7x1.25x13, part number N 090 173 3. It is an odd screw, hope that helps you to find it.
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