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Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The part number is under the part name.
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_596_783/drive-axle-seal-manual.html
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june1ron
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 9:02 pm    Post subject: Help...think I got the wrong seal! Reply with quote

Does anyone have a p/n on the seal for an '87 manual 2WD?

Mine have been leaking very badly. Pulled the worse one apart tonight, and low-and-behold, there was NO SEAL!

This leaves me in a pinch because I think the one I got from my local VW shop doesn't fit...it's inner diameter is about 3/8" smaller than the tranny driveshaft.

My parts are Elring with the following numbers:
22,2x40x12/17
26/14
043.605
4 041248 12653

Can anyone give me the approximate inner diameter of the seal relative to the splined driveshaft on the tranny? Or, a part number?

Thanks!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

65Tops wrote:
I am debating on removing the adjusting rings to make it easier to remove the seals. I'm going to mark them and count turns etc. My question is will I have to replace the o-rings that seal the adjusting ring to the case or has anyone had success reusing them? I am also suspecting they are slightly weeping.


If an o-ring was weeping why wouldn't you replace it?

FWIW, I have always been able to reuse the o-ring when I have had the nuts removed. YMMV

The easiest way to remove the seal would be to buy and use a seal puller, done in about 30 seconds. Some of the pullers they sell these days are pretty flimsy, so get one sturdy enough to do the job.
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65Tops
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am debating on removing the adjusting rings to make it easier to remove the seals. I'm going to mark them and count turns etc. My question is will I have to replace the o-rings that seal the adjusting ring to the case or has anyone had success reusing them? I am also suspecting they are slightly weeping.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple of suggestions. You should only need to drill one fairly small hole, maybe for a #6 or #8 screw and then use a cats claw to ease the seal out. Two holes and two cat's claws on the same side would probably be better than two opposing holes.

It is also fairly easy to make a tool to remove the adjusting nuts so the seal can be driven out from behind. All your need is a piece of 3/16 x 1 1/4" bar stock and a couple of bolts with nuts. You need to drill two holes in the bar and insert the bolts so that their heads grab the teeth on the adjusting nut. The bolts need to be long enough to fit over axle shaft. The trick is getting the hole centers just right. I started by drilling holes for 5/16" bolts but the tool ended up a bit loose so I redrill for 3/8" bolts and with the larger heads on the bolts the fit was prefect.

When removing the adjusting nuts you want to punch mark their original position and then only remove one at a time so that the depth is correct.
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atomatom
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 11:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Final Drive Seal Woes Reply with quote

DontBeAfraid wrote:
Working on the van is fun when I don't have to reinvent tools.
Rolling Eyes


what do you mean! fixing your van is at least 50% macgyver and 50% mechanic. although it is a bit time consuming inventing tools (that already exist)
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DontBeAfraid
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 11:21 pm    Post subject: Final Drive Seal Woes Reply with quote

I did this job today, but only on the passenger's side.
I used the recommended Screw-into-old-seal Method, and managed to break through the seal, drill into the transmission part within, and break the bit all within a split second of each other. Needless to say, I'm really hoping I haven't caused any irreversible damage to my transmission.
After drilling, prying with all manner of implement, and generally hating the combined failures of all my attempts, I went to FLAPS to rent a small gear puller tool. After some heavy modification to remove enough material to insert the puller arms into the seal, the parts actually fit inside the seal.
I then cut a wooden dowl to length to act as a spacer for the threaded rod to push against.
This job was a nightmare for me.
Working on the van is fun when I don't have to reinvent tools.
So frustrating! And I still have the other side to do! Although I think I will probably leave it alone since the driver's side isn't leaking. The plan was to replace the CVs with 944 units, and replace the drive seals. 8 hours later I'm only halfway done.
Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The screw-in-the-oil-seal method didn't work for me. Only after prodigious prying with a long screwdriver and crowbar and beating on it with a hammer and chisel was I able to get the thing off.

The worst part was that I somehow didn't notice that I was drilling a hole between the seal and the housing.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


NOT GOOD - the housing now has a groove in it from the drill bit. I put some RTV in it and around the seal so hopefully it won't leak. Just be careful if you are drilling holes in the seal.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

outwesty wrote:
Just pulled the passenger side rear flange on a syncro today. No issues, flange slid off with hand and seal came out with no issues. Mine was leaking more than any I have seen on any van. I noticed there is a decent groove in the flange seal surface from the spring seal. Would you replace the whole flange or try a little emery cloth and run it ? I do not see a part number on the flange. Thanks


Many seals can be run at a different depth from what the original one was in order to get the lips to run against a "new" surface. Not sure about this one, need to make sure it will not hit the back of the flange if you leave it a bit proud.
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outwesty
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just pulled the passenger side rear flange on a syncro today. No issues, flange slid off with hand and seal came out with no issues. Mine was leaking more than any I have seen on any van. I noticed there is a decent groove in the flange seal surface from the spring seal. Would you replace the whole flange or try a little emery cloth and run it ? I do not see a part number on the flange. Thanks
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VeeDubDaySpa
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanis13, thanks for the clarification... It makes total sense now- looking forward to this job Very Happy
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ithinkso
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While drilling holes in the seals for the screws you can take the magnetic drain plug and hold it next to the bit to catch most of the metal shavings. I didn't want them falling in the bearings.
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vanis13
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KevbOliver wrote:
Quote:
Just did this.


Might be a dumb question but are you using the puller to remove the seal?? Im about to do this too… but your puller method confused me -


Not a dumb question. dumb (or at least unclear) writing. the "Thing" I was referring to was the flange not the seal. edited my post now to reflect this clarification. Thanks for pointing it out.
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atomatom
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drilling two small holes in the seal, one on each side, and inserting wood/drywall screws is pretty easy. the two screw method is useful because the seal is rigid on the sides and will jam/stick if twisted.

a crow bar/hammer/nail puller can be used if needed. i think i did.

make sure you collect the metal bits caused by drilling the seal (it is metal under rubber). magnet on a stick, how i love you.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KevbOliver wrote:
Also, searching the bentley, is this seal ever mentioned??????
Don't have a clue, but the Bentley doesn't usually go into detail on how to do such jobs, if anything at all they just say to remove and replace the seal and may give the part numbers to a fancy but usually unnecessary factory tool.
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VeeDubDaySpa
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, searching the bentley, is this seal ever mentioned??????
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VeeDubDaySpa
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Just did this. Instead of pounding the thing on and off I used a puller. Reversed the puller for install using a 10mm bolt and an extra nut. I found it much quieter and easier.

Also when the flange is pressed down, the circlips were easier to install. There is enough room around the puller (now pusher) to finesse the clip into the groove.

Also “levered” out the seal and straight pulling I was lifting up the tranny. Yes, two screws make a BIG difference.


Might be a dumb question but are you using the puller to remove the seal?? Im about to do this too… but your puller method confused me -
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2014 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On pulling the seals, I got after them with a traditional seal puller (like a pry bar of flat stock with a very hard hook on the end). Seems like the screw trick might not work if the user didn't have experience choosing a drill bit vs the screw size, and the screw strips itself in the seal. Whereas the seal puller brings mack daddy power to the job - it's coming out no matter what. Seal pullers are common at any FLAPS. Get one up from the cheapest they sell as the very cheapest don't always have the hooks made of REALLY hard material. You can tell these because the hook part is often a bolt on part, indicating it is much harder than the handle portion. Indicates they spent money on the hook steel but didn't waste it on the entire handle that doesn't need such expensive and hard steel.

Nice thing about the seal puller is the seal is out in 30 seconds, where the drill and screw deal may take 15 minutes to locate screws, get a drill up there next to the trans (good luck) try not to drill too deep, do the procedure, put tools away, etc.

DougM
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vanis13
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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2014 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just did this. Instead of pounding the flange on and off I used a puller. Reversed the puller for install of teh flange using a 10mm bolt and an extra nut. I found it much quieter and easier.

Also when the flange is pressed down, the circlips were easier to install. There is enough room around the puller (now pusher) to finesse the clip into the groove.

Also “levered” out the seal and straight pulling I was lifting up the tranny. Yes, two screws make a BIG difference.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by vanis13 on Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:43 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Farfrumwork
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

minsk wrote:
so because of the scarcity of m7 x 1.25 13mm.
i retapped the screw holes to m8 x 1.25

18-8 Stainless Steel Metric Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, M8 Size, 16MM Length, 1.25MM Pitch

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Just did this ^^^, as my OE screws were boogered from removal and one broke off in the tranny...

Easy - and then you have a plentiful supply of M8x1.25 (when you get in there again in 10yrs...)
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