Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal

[larryaparker]

CV s and seals procedure: Greetings 6 sedans 1 van and been since 16 years old been turning a wrench (1966 1300). Get the drive flange transaxel seal out with a flat alum. say 1/16 thick plate and 3 1 inch long 1/4 inch nutdriver headed selftapping sheet metal screws engineered by you to fit the situation/mine was a 75 superbeetle 5 inches up on wood blocks (2x6x3.5 feet atop a 4x6x1.5Foot-3 of 4 wheels well chocked against vehicle movement...) Put the new seal s in with a little of that CV high pressure lithuim molybdenum staylube 14 oz from your grease gun loaded cartridge. Grease filling seal lips and smearing seal circumfrence/flange seal bore curcumference. Now/checks 1)you took notes on disasembly 2)examined the warpy washer that preloads the flange and keeps it from making noise/pounding the drive bearing race/drive bearing unless yor CV are real worn out, saw that the gap side of the warp/goes against the flange and looking closely discovered that a bit of bright metal shows here at the gap that was the result of well lubed CVs that nevertheless had worn out and caused the axel to pound here with a noise that caused much fear...in 4th load on it/passinger rear brake shoe tightened down 3 adjusting stars too tight...) 2)front to rear push/pull with new ebayed CVs installed yields 0 play, here any click plus play the CVs need replacement. 3) you examined your replacement seals 75vw transaxel and note they are wider by 5 mm/harder to drive home. 4) you understand that with this oversized/wider new seal you could seat it cocked on one side too deeply causing it to stick and so recheck depth every 60 seconds or so of seating manuvers at several places/4 places/I used a 6 inch steel rule graduated 1/32" Further if seated to where the old seal was you chance knocking the output flange bearing race complete with guts in...oh no... so after carefull inspection/measurements of the output flange, ect estimate that you can call it done when seal is 1/4 inch inside the transaxel casting surface you are working about. Start em with thumb pressure, graduate to using flat old seal tapping round with ball pean hammer (finger tips) till the seal is about level with the flange casting surface. I then used a 41mm 3/4 scocket inside the old seal, graduated to a naked 45mm socket pushed to the impact side with each tap (3 lb crack hammer/some used a brass punch/hammer??) -cavedin the replacement seal not good. PS 1) vice grip on the 12 flange bolts plus 12 pt not broken yet socket tool is not cheating and fair 2)3/8 nc bolt, few washers plus 2 1/2 inch muffler clamp (3 1/2 iches wide)drilled/engineered to fit as a Flange/transaxel splined hub compression tool to get circlip on/off 3)150w construction light helpfull 4)safety goggles needed 5)snap ring goes on 3/8 splined bolt b4 you screw it in 5)snapring pliers need flats filed on the reversed ends possibly...6) $4 50 cent sized flange cap seals drilled out 1/8 inch drill,2 place,s popped out carefully with awl/drill on penitration hits the axel shaft immediately I re used with rtv repressed into the flange with layer of alum foil carefully contoured to the backside and circumfrence trimmed to not catch as seal was reseated...cheap I am. You took twenty minutes to seat it/all good? Champion Get well, get well regulated/makeyourbattlefreedom

[Syncro Jael]

Ever since my rebuild the drivers side seal would leak, then stop, then leak, then stop. So I checked the vent tube and it is clear.

Last night I checked and it was leaking just sitting in the garage!

So I had the parts and did the job. I used a seal puller. Off in less than a minute. Lots of gear oil came out. Used a socket that was the same size as the new seal. Drove it home. Looked at the flange, the surface still looked smooth so I installed it all filled back up with gear oil and took it for a 100 mile drive to make sure all is well.

The damn thing is weeping. Not much, but still a little.

I hate oil leaks! Hate hate hate them.

I am gonna run it a while and see if the seal will seat in. If not. I guess I will get to do this again and this time purchase a new flange. Dammit!

Ok, done venting....

Really really check the flange surface and make sure it is smooth.
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat)

[o-town]

much appreciated. that is going to be a challenge to reinstall the proper way around.

[pablum]

It is supposed to drive the inner bearing race up against the circlip. So concave side in.

[o-town]

I just did this job, but did not keep close track of which way to put on the dished washer that goes between the axle stub transaxle side and the circlip.

which way around does the dished washer install? I have it "dished out" away from the transmission. putting less pressure on the circlip. Was already difficult to install it even like that

[june1ron]

Thanks...definitely NOT the PN on the ones I got.

Hope they have them when I bike into the shop tomorrow...thanks!

[syncrodoka]

The part number is under the part name.
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_596_783/drive-axle-seal-manual.html

[june1ron]

Does anyone have a p/n on the seal for an '87 manual 2WD?

Mine have been leaking very badly. Pulled the worse one apart tonight, and low-and-behold, there was NO SEAL!

This leaves me in a pinch because I think the one I got from my local VW shop doesn't fit...it's inner diameter is about 3/8" smaller than the tranny driveshaft.

My parts are Elring with the following numbers:
22,2x40x12/17
26/14
043.605
4 041248 12653

Can anyone give me the approximate inner diameter of the seal relative to the splined driveshaft on the tranny? Or, a part number?

Thanks!

[Wildthings]

[65Tops]

I am debating on removing the adjusting rings to make it easier to remove the seals. I'm going to mark them and count turns etc. My question is will I have to replace the o-rings that seal the adjusting ring to the case or has anyone had success reusing them? I am also suspecting they are slightly weeping.
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89 Vanagon 2.1 WBX Westy Camper "Spanky"

[Wildthings]

A couple of suggestions. You should only need to drill one fairly small hole, maybe for a #6 or #8 screw and then use a cats claw to ease the seal out. Two holes and two cat's claws on the same side would probably be better than two opposing holes.

It is also fairly easy to make a tool to remove the adjusting nuts so the seal can be driven out from behind. All your need is a piece of 3/16 x 1 1/4" bar stock and a couple of bolts with nuts. You need to drill two holes in the bar and insert the bolts so that their heads grab the teeth on the adjusting nut. The bolts need to be long enough to fit over axle shaft. The trick is getting the hole centers just right. I started by drilling holes for 5/16" bolts but the tool ended up a bit loose so I redrill for 3/8" bolts and with the larger heads on the bolts the fit was prefect.

When removing the adjusting nuts you want to punch mark their original position and then only remove one at a time so that the depth is correct.

[atomatom]

[DontBeAfraid]

I did this job today, but only on the passenger's side.
I used the recommended Screw-into-old-seal Method, and managed to break through the seal, drill into the transmission part within, and break the bit all within a split second of each other. Needless to say, I'm really hoping I haven't caused any irreversible damage to my transmission.
After drilling, prying with all manner of implement, and generally hating the combined failures of all my attempts, I went to FLAPS to rent a small gear puller tool. After some heavy modification to remove enough material to insert the puller arms into the seal, the parts actually fit inside the seal.
I then cut a wooden dowl to length to act as a spacer for the threaded rod to push against.
This job was a nightmare for me.
Working on the van is fun when I don't have to reinvent tools.
So frustrating! And I still have the other side to do! Although I think I will probably leave it alone since the driver's side isn't leaking. The plan was to replace the CVs with 944 units, and replace the drive seals. 8 hours later I'm only halfway done.

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Dave
1989 Westfalia 2.1 Four-on-the-Floor

[Nuthin2It]

The screw-in-the-oil-seal method didn't work for me. Only after prodigious prying with a long screwdriver and crowbar and beating on it with a hammer and chisel was I able to get the thing off.

The worst part was that I somehow didn't notice that I was drilling a hole between the seal and the housing.

NOT GOOD - the housing now has a groove in it from the drill bit. I put some RTV in it and around the seal so hopefully it won't leak. Just be careful if you are drilling holes in the seal.
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1985 Westfalia 15 degree EA288 Boxeer

[Wildthings]

[outwesty]

Just pulled the passenger side rear flange on a syncro today. No issues, flange slid off with hand and seal came out with no issues. Mine was leaking more than any I have seen on any van. I noticed there is a decent groove in the flange seal surface from the spring seal. Would you replace the whole flange or try a little emery cloth and run it ? I do not see a part number on the flange. Thanks

[VeeDubDaySpa]

Vanis13, thanks for the clarification... It makes total sense now- looking forward to this job
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North American Hightop Installer/Distributor
Current stock (3)
Hot Water Systems
_______________________________________
90 Syncro NAHT Vanagon RHINO
86 "Syncro" Van DIAMOND
87 Syncro Hightop WestyCamper ROCKY (for sale soon)
79 bay window OLIVER

[ithinkso]

While drilling holes in the seals for the screws you can take the magnetic drain plug and hold it next to the bit to catch most of the metal shavings. I didn't want them falling in the bearings.
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“May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.”
- Edward Abbey

1985 Westy, Zetec powered

[vanis13]

[atomatom]

drilling two small holes in the seal, one on each side, and inserting wood/drywall screws is pretty easy. the two screw method is useful because the seal is rigid on the sides and will jam/stick if twisted.

a crow bar/hammer/nail puller can be used if needed. i think i did.

make sure you collect the metal bits caused by drilling the seal (it is metal under rubber). magnet on a stick, how i love you.
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84 Vanagon Westy, 1.9L, California raised but defected to Canada.