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25hp lack of power
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sconord
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 7:26 am    Post subject: 25hp lack of power Reply with quote

I need to know what degree of advance to set the timing of a 25hp. It is correct with a 25 hp distributor.

Thanks, Stan


Last edited by sconord on Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:43 pm; edited 1 time in total
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sconord
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

found it 5 degrees

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/techbulletins/m1/66_page2.jpg
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tasb
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not so fast...

the 383 would have been set at 7.5 BTDC static...
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Suboval
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Split Manual (Section E, page 5-3) says 5 degrees BTDC static for a VE 4 BRS 383.
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sconord
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am having a lack of top end "power". I thought it might be timing.

I had to take the 1-2 head off for an oil leak in one of the lifter tubes. After putting it back in, it idles fine but lacks the power that it DID have.

I rechecked the vavle gap and checked for an intake leak and both no problems. I am thinking now either dirt in the carb or compression leak. I can't hear any kind of compression leak noise.


Last edited by sconord on Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Splitdog
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engines should be timed at max advance. I'm not sure about a 25 hp, but my stock 1600dp is set at 40 and runs fine. (@ 3000 rpm) Let static timing fall where it may. Unless it pings or hard to start-back it down.
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johnshenry
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re torque the head bolts (nuts) on the side you took off. Sometimes after running for a bit they can get loose and cause a loss of compression.

Also check the plugs and see if there is any differences in color on the tips side to side..

If you find something, let us know!!
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DDub
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:58 pm    Post subject: compression Reply with quote

Why not just use a gauge and know for sure?
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53 0val
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put 40lbs of air in the tires and you will get the "biggest" speed improvement. Wink
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Brezelwerks
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once you check the other stuff mentioned above, you may also need a distributor rebuild, might be a flat spot at higher rpms, may be worth having it curved at Vintagewerks to see how it matches up to the factory curve, then it can be adjusted as needed.
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Seb67
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In circumstances such as these I find it very amusing that you may actually have a horse power rating in the teens. Shocked
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dogapult
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

25hp IS a lack of power! Laughing
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52HoffmanSplit
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwpimpster wrote:
25hp IS a lack of power! Laughing


But the cool factor is HIGH... like... Off the scale High.... just drove mine tonight.... smooth as can be.... 55 up the little rolling hills, 69 down the little rolling hills and 65 top Speed on the Flats..
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Eric Outland
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 11:35 am    Post subject: Eric (VMR) Reply with quote

Did you replace the Cylindrical o-ring seal on the head/ barrel I hope? did you have the slit on the seal ring facing the right way? Have you done a compression check?

Check your advance, and do a static time with a lite. Retorque manifold and head and check valve adjustment.

If you do have loss of compression and all was fine before you removed the head for the leak--check your bently and do the oil cylindrical test to trouble shoot possibilites on bad valve, broken ring etc.etc.
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splitjunkie
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 3:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Eric (VMR) Reply with quote

Eric Outland wrote:
Did you replace the Cylindrical o-ring seal on the head/ barrel I hope? did you have the slit on the seal ring facing the right way?


Those o-rings are not the primary seal. The junction between the top of the cylinder and the head is what forms the seal. The o-ring is just there as a fail safe to prevent exhaust gases from getting into the car since the heat is generated by the cooling air blowing over the cylinders and heads.

VW did away with the copper o-rings shortly after going to the fresh air heating system.

If the mating surface is suspect you can take the cylinders off and using valve lapping compound you can lap the cylinder to the head. That will ensure a perfect seal.
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sconord
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I retorqued the head nuts.

I replaced the throttle cable which was wrapped around the clutch cable- shortening it about 1 1/2".

Seems to have solved the problem
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iamdonquixote
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

custom rev-limiter!
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