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Thinking about picking up a 71 Bus, need advice!
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grncbr
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:14 pm    Post subject: Thinking about picking up a 71 Bus, need advice! Reply with quote

Hey guys,

I've been rolling around in a 74 standard, and I think it's time to step up and join the big boys. I found a 71 Bay Window that's in my price range, but I have no idea what to look for as to whether it's a good price or not.

In my experiences so far with wrenching on my beetle I know of things to look for in the future if I get another. What things should I check on the bus before I pull the trigger on it?

Here's the craigslist ad for it.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/3355936067.html

Thanks for the help guys!
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rust, look for rust around the windows, front dog legs, etc.

Why is the wiring bad? Big red flag to me.

Much of the interior seems to be missing.

What's up with the right tail light? What does the battery box look like?

Did I say look for rust?
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grncbr
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It says he still has the middle seat, I'm not too worried about the interior since I'm planning on using it for utility purposes. Can't find a single/dual cab in my price range so this would be the next best thing.

The wiring is a bit of a concern to me as well. Rewiring parts of my beetle was a pain in the butt, so I'm not really looking forward to pulling wire through a bus. But hey, if that's the only big problem with it it's better than where i started with my Beetle Very Happy
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a good one, grab it Wink
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nodrenim
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the floor and under the sliding side door for rust, if that door falls on your foot when you open it sometime, it can be really hurtful. Ask me how I know. I would start out at a grand and see if he will come down some, might help ease any surprises that come your way. Good Luck!
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm impressed by the apparent completeness of the engine, based on the rest of the tattered and worn look of the bus. The price is too rich for me, but, I'm out of touch. When you take it for a test drive, make sure you pay close attention to steering drift and slop. What, exctly, is wong with the brakes? If its the servo (vacuum booster), add $200 for a remanufactured unit from BusDepot, et. al., you may find one cheaper eleswhere.

If he's got the middle seat, and you're not going to use, you could get $100-$200 for it pretty quickly if it's in decent shape.

Wiring can be a pain in the ass for sure, but it could turn hazardous to you and others on the highway fairly quickly if it is questionable. Keep in mind good wiring is paramount for primary ignition, safety lighting and actually seeing those cute little red and green lights come on at highway speeds.

Given that it's for sale in Santa Rosa, pay attention to rust issues. This could have lived its whole life in the damp coast or bay area, but I don't see the telltale signs: lower windshield seal rot, etc. Make sure you take a good look under the bus for structural frame rot and off-roading damage. As was mentioned, look out for battery tray damage. BusDepot sells replacement trays, but the rest of cutting/welding is up to you.

Check the fit of all the doors, especially the slider. Does the slider lock when the handle is pulled upward after closing it? Do you need to really race it closed hard to get it to seal?

You're looking at virtually the same bus I once foolishly sold, same color and trim package. You'll really have a great time with it once it's all dialed in!
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Red Fau Veh
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2500? Sounds like a deal to me, but the rust and hidden uglies are there so weigh those issues before buying it. I bought mine for 2800 and it has zero rust and a strong 1915 dual carb motor, delux complete and looking decent, so I measure all other deals by how good they compare to the first one I bought.
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aryue
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's about what a running 71 Bus costs these days in neglected condition. Yep, I see rust in the usual places and it's missing various pieces. It will be a long term project for sure.

Give it a test drive.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if it were in Los angeles, that shit would be gone.

BUT wiring is expensive or hard for some, it needs brakes...also can get pricey too. calipers are 71-72 only, hoses all around for sure, pads, wheel cylinders, shoes and worst of all a brake booster. all this must be considered no good unless proven to be so.

its in the right range but it will need more stuff to be roadworthy.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would buy that bus for $2500 as long as it ddin't have issues not already mentioned. A nice, good condition, 1971 bus can be worth close to $15K so there's lots of room if you decide to fix it up.
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Red Fau Veh
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
A nice, good condition, 1971 bus can be worth close to $15K
Alright! I like hearing that, can you explain why it is true? Is the 71 really that much better? I love the old tailights and having front discs, but what else makes them special?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I didn't mean to say that ONLY a 1971 would be worth up to $15K because there are certainly some nice buses drawing good prices. The 1971 (and I see you own one) was the first year with power brakes and the last year with the T1 engine which some people prefer. Let me give you a few exmples.

1971 bus sold for $14K+ in 2006

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A different 1971 bus that sold for $13K+ in 2006

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A 1978 bus that sold for $10K+ in 2011

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


To be fair I should also tell you that the 1978 had a salvage title but I think generally a 1971 will be worth more than a newer year.

And to go a bit further...

1965 bug sold for $5K+ in 2010

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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grncbr
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks so much for all the great replies!

You guys have given me some great bargaining points and the little quirks to look for which can mean expensive problems/projects in the future.

I had to learn all about those the hard way with my Beetle since I purchased it with just about every quirk and PO hack in the book.

Hopefully I can go take a look at it soon, still waiting for the guy to get back to me.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another thing....

I said "I" would buy it for $2500. Keep in mind that I can fix about 95% of the bus without opening a book because I've been doing it for years and years. A buyer who isn't mechanical or willing to get his hands dirty would find it to be too expensive to bring this bus up to a decent level. Shops generally charge upwards of $85/hour and you can see that your wallet would empty out fast if you plan to pay someone to fix it for you.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crawl under it and see if the motor is a Bus motor. It should bolt to the moustache bar directly without an adapter. It doesn't appear that the brake booster line is hooked up right now so check that the intake manifold is the correct one with the vacuum nipple on it. Check the rear windows for rust between the wind wings and the large window. Check behind the front bumper for rust. See if it still has a real Solex carb.'
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brionp wrote:
Crawl under it and see if the motor is a Bus motor. It should bolt to the moustache bar directly without an adapter. It doesn't appear that the brake booster line is hooked up right now so check that the intake manifold is the correct one with the vacuum nipple on it. Check the rear windows for rust between the wind wings and the large window. Check behind the front bumper for rust. See if it still has a real Solex carb.'



booster not connected may mean the booster is dead.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen better deals for a thrashed out hulk. I paid $2,000 for mine and it was a mostly complete Westy. Talk him down or keep looking.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I certainly think it is a bit too high, but then I am 15 years removed from CA and NM prices seem to much better for Bays.
Actually, here is a nice 71 Westy...Care for a road trip?
You could drive it up to me to give it the once over twice if you would like. I am about an hour + north.
http://santafe.craigslist.org/cto/3309520487.html
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grncbr
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brionp wrote:
Crawl under it and see if the motor is a Bus motor. It should bolt to the moustache bar directly without an adapter. It doesn't appear that the brake booster line is hooked up right now so check that the intake manifold is the correct one with the vacuum nipple on it. Check the rear windows for rust between the wind wings and the large window. Check behind the front bumper for rust. See if it still has a real Solex carb.'


Do you by any chance have a pic of where the brake booster is supposed to connect to the manifold and where the booster line goes?
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grncbr
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Found this pic in another post, is that the port on the manifold I should be looking for when I check it out?

Edit: Arrggh, and a fuel filter in the engine compartment Sad
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