1967 door lock woes, replacement?

[Medic Zero]

.

Does anyone sell new lock cylinders I can install as replacements? Or new complete door handles that have the same profile cylinders that I can pull out and install in my 1967 door handles?


Any trick to reinstalling the door handles? I'm not seeing anything like a trick to it in the few tutorials online, but could I have messed up by having the door locked or unlocked when I reinstalled the handles or somehow otherwise not lined things up properly?


I picked up a (January) '67 a few months ago, strong mechanically, somewhat rough otherwise, with lots of little issues I'm looking forward to fixing on the way to a full resto-custom rebuild.

From the get-go I had problems with the drivers side door unlocking, the PO said that if you pushed in on the button while turning it that it worked, but I found that only worked off and on and got in the habit of unlocking the passenger side door instead most of the time. Unfortunately, the passenger door failed on me yesterday, it not only doesn't work now, but it acts like it isn't engaging whatsoever. Of course, this happened on a day the drivers side door didn't want to unlock at all either.

Despite advice not to use wet lube inside the cylinders, out of desperation I shot some lock lube that comes in a aerosol can and has a consistency like WD-40 into the drivers side door, and this worked to get it open for the moment, but it obviously wasn't working right, still requiring to be depressed at the same time as turning, feeling "not right" and not opening each time, requiring several attempts to get it to open when I tested it a few more times.

From research, I assumed that the pins had broken off, and I had anticipated this and had bought some 3" Chicago screws to do that repair that way, but when I pulled the handles, both had pins. So, I lubed them up with white lithium grease as much as I could from the outside, and since I had already shot them with the liquid lock lubricant, gave the insides as good a rinse as I could with that.

I then reinstalled them, swapping sides in the hope that part of the problem was wear on the lobe on the cylinder, but the one the one that been on the passenger side still doesn't work, feels like it won't engage, feels almost like it spins freely. The one that had been on the drivers side seems to reliably unlock the door, but only after 4-5 attempts before it does so and I'm nervous about it failing the rest of the way leaving me locked out.

At this point, I'd happily buy an aftermarket set of locking handles, if someone could steer me to a make/model that had a cylinder that would fit inside my 1967 handles. I suspect the cylinders are just worn out. I don't mind having to have a different key from the ignition or things not being original 1967, I just want the locks to reliably open!

I'd welcome other advice though.

Would having a new key cut maybe solve it? Is it possible the key is just worn?

I know the mechanism in the door is also '67 only. How likely is that the problems I describe are in that mechanism rather than the lock cylinder? And how hard is it to modify the 68+ mechanism to fit a 67 door?


Many thanks for your time and assistance!

.

[61SNRF]

I don't believe changing your lock cylinders or door handles will help much with your problem(s).
As long as your key(s) will turn the cylinder(s) within the button(s) and rotates the pawl(s) up and down through full ~120 degree range then more likely the latches themselves are the issue.

You will have to use your powers of observation to better find out the root cause.

Since you know how to remove handles, take them off and look into the openings in the door. You should see the stamped steel U shaped receptacle within the latch that the door handle's lock pawl operates.
With the door closed (with window open so you don't get locked out) put your finger in the receptacle and try to push it up and down.
Pushed down it should lock and pulled up it should unlock.
Since the latch and it's parts are stamped steel they are subject to wear and bending.
I suspect they are bent or lacking lubrication thus causing the handles to do little or nothing.
If you are very observant and patient you may be able to determine if you can bend them back into shape and/or lube them up so they work more reliably.
Wolfsburg West has taken the trouble to modify 68-> latches to work on 67's but trouble is they are currently closed due to an abundance of caution.
Left...
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=151837015A
Right...
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=151837016A

Replacement involves taking out your window regulators so if you have any other issues with those or window channel felt/rubbers best plan would be to do all repairs/replacements at once.

Once repaired lube them every 3 months per VW...

Best of luck, hope this will help,
_________________
-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[pgslaughter]

I've got a 67 with very similar issues, and I have gone through much the same stuff that 61SNRF suggested. I've not been locked out, but it takes a couple turns up and down on the key to get the pawl to fully push the lock up. I had my cylinders redone by a locksmith who said they were in great condition, and the pawl looks good as well, not worn out in a way that you could see at least. It almost seems like the pawl opening is too big and the catch on the cylinder doesn't have enough leverage by the time it makes contact with the pawl, as I can push them up and down easily without the handle on the door.

[brian rogers]

‘67s are bastard one year only cars. These had 3 different versions of door handles.
A good source of information on ‘67s is
http://1967beetle.com/

[Medic Zero]

[TheRide]

[67 Florida Deluxe]

It's worn from use. The passenger and driver's side handles are the same. Remove the passenger side and swap with the driver's side. Lube before reinstallation and put a dab of grease on the top side of the little oblong "paddle" of the lock cylinder. Eazy, peazy.
_________________
-Kent (BaT "daleallen")

OG member of the '67 Posse

A few of my toys, past and present
'56 Oval, '66 KG Conv't, '67 21-Window, '67 Bug, '79 SuperVert, '55 Pre-A Continental

[Medic Zero]

[67 Florida Deluxe]

[AdventureKins]

OP what did you end up doing? I have a 67, both handles are doing the same thing. Thank you!

[67rustavenger]

[AdventureKins]

[67rustavenger]

Swapping the handles side to side is easy.
The upside is. You are using the opposite side of the locking mechanism.
You usually lock the doors with the door button and unlock them with the key.
Swapping them uses the unused portion of the handle that never sees the use do to the lock button being used.
I hope that makes sense.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!
2003 Astrovan? GFYS again, Xevin!
Don't let your bad ideas remain, ideas!

[AdventureKins]

[67rustavenger]

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

It has wear ... a couple of tips..

Squeeze the "C" or "U" shaped piece in the door together a little at a time. ...

The paddle wears on the door handle .. it looses the amount it needs to throw the lock..
ALSO.. you must be absolutely sure as you install the handle its not already pressing on the same C/U piece. If it is.. it wont allow the lock to move to lock/unlock correctly.
Sometimes it takes a combination of tweaking and filing to get the right combination.

[aviator8]

[67rustavenger]