Rear Suspension Noise

Woreign · Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 8:44 am Post subject: Rear Suspension Noise

I have clunky noise at the right, rear of my car. It only happens when going over bumps. I can reproduce the noise in the garage by lifting up on the rear bumper. I thought it might be a loose shock bolt, but both top and bottom are tight. While "bouncing" the car, I don't see any thing loose. Maybe one of the CV joints? Or bad bushings in the spring plate?

I serviced the CV joints about 2 years ago, and they seemed to be OK. They were dry at the time and only had some shiny spots. I'm not opposed to replacing them, but I'm concerned about the cheap after-market quality.

flyinglow94 · Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 9:19 am Post subject:

The shock bolt may be tight but the bushing around it might be warn out. Pull the shock and then bounce the car and see if the noise is still there.
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IAMIROY · Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 9:42 am Post subject:

Woreign · Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 9:52 am Post subject:

That appears to be the source for the noise! Removed the bottom shock bolt and the noise went away. The shocks and bushings are only a few years old, so they are OK. I think the holes in the suspension arm that the shock bolt passes through might be a little wallered out. The bolt may have loosened enough to cause the noise. The next drive will tell me for sure...

I'm glad that my CV joints are not the culprit, although I need to replace one of the boots. There is a small slice in it and it throws a little grease out of it. Being such a small slice (1/4") is there a way to seal it? Or should I get a new boot? And if so, should I replace all 4 for peace of mind?

flyinglow94 · Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:05 am Post subject:

If the CV boots are old I would replace them all but absolutely replace the torn boot befor it costs you more money.
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Bobnotch · Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:47 am Post subject:

Yeah, they're the same as an IRS beetle, so they should be easy to find (even in Germany).
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Woreign · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:18 am Post subject:

Well, the clunking noise is still there. The shock is not loose as I had suspected. I did notice that the spring plate bushings need to be replaced. The torsion tube is not centered in the spring plate cover. Could this be the cause of the noise?

I have new inner and outer bushing, but I'm hesitant to tackle this job on my own. I've even watched some videos on how it's done, but the whole spring tension situation worries me.

If I do tackle this job on my own, I should probably do it at the same time that I replace the CV boots, right?

Mike Fisher · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:46 am Post subject:

Measure both sides now to see if they are different heights, before you start. Once they are apart your Magnetic Angle Gauge is your only guide to keeping/getting them level.
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Bobnotch · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:50 am Post subject:

KTPhil · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 1:38 pm Post subject:

Worn rubber spring plate bushings can also mess with your rear alignment.

No particular advantage to doing the CV boots at the same time, other than perhaps making it a little easier to get at all those cap screws.

It would be good to check the condition of the diagonal arm bushings at this time, though. Unfortunately, the original rubber style are no longer available, and you have to use the squeaky red urethane ones. Try putting some moly or other lube on those when installing to forestall the squeaking. Pay attention to the positions of those large washers when you take them out.

vlad01 · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 2:59 pm Post subject:

you can still buy the rubber ones, just look at cip1 . but yeah good poly bushes are heaps better used with the molybdenum disulphide grease .

don't use poly for the spring plates though Shame on you

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-501-541-C


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