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Best way to remove door hinge screws
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 4:59 pm    Post subject: Best way to remove door hinge screws Reply with quote

These just had to go
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Ok, So I found a pair of brass door hinges with mirror mounts and I need to remove and replace the existing hinges.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Try as as I might, I can't get the screws to even budge. Placed the screwdriver on the screw and gave it a few raps with a hammer in an effort to lossen things up. Still no movement. I don't want to bung up the screwhead too much.

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Ideas?
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Last edited by Semper_Dad on Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:18 pm; edited 2 times in total
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hank0306
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't remember if it is a #4 phillips, like the hood; if it is, I bet it comes off the same way. Go buy a #4 phillips bit for your ratchet, whack the phillips bit with a mallat then ratchet the screw off. I doubt you could produce enough force or torque with just a screw driver. There is another thread somewhere on the 181 samba thread that identifies the correct screwdriver head size....
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vws-microcars4jim
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Best way to remove door hinge screws Reply with quote

Semper_Dad wrote:
I don't want to bung up the screwhead too much.


hehe

My #3 Snap-On phillips screwdriver fits nicely, however those body screws can be stuck pretty good. I would use an impact driver to get it turning, just a screwdriver with a wrench on it may "bung it up."

If you don't have an impact driver an auto parts store might rent/lend you one.

Jim
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77kafer
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They look like they are already a little bunged up. Sad
What I used years ago was one of these. http://cgi.ebay.com/Professional-3-8-Impact-Driver...43a16f0d34
Works great for doing stuff like that.
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sixty9fasty
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmm, mine came off just fine with a large screw driver.... soaked them a bit with penetrating oil first..
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

77kafer wrote:
They look like they are already a little bunged up.
Works great for doing stuff like that.


They're really not all that bad,....yet. Original color was yellow and now it has a crappy black one. Thanks for the idea. Looks like I need to take a trip to Sears tomorrow.
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Bugs4Life
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a link using a screw extractor, It's what I have done in past.

http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Stripped-Screw
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bugs4Life wrote:
Here is a link using a screw extractor, It's what I have done in past.

http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Stripped-Screw


Yeh, I've used a easyout before. (Ironically it was on a Mk 48 Torpedo hanging halfway out of a torpedo tube). Needless to say it still brings on a little PTSD Laughing
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Chris in Santa Cruz, CA
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/18v_oneplus/drills_drivers/P230

This tool is the best thing I have purchased in a long time and is useful for driving deck screws as well as auto stuff. It works well for things like this.
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried my Millwaukee 14V but it just didn't have enough umph.

However,......

BFH + KD 1140 + #4 Bit
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= Success

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kubelmann
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is mostly a review of others posts but I offer it as a list.

1. I start with my #4 phillips socket on a ratchet handle.
2. If it does not come out, I attach the #4 to my battery powered impact gun.
3. If this does not work I apply PB blaster and wait. Then I try tool one and two again.
4. If still no luck a second application of PB blaster is applied and a longer wait is given. Finally I use my manual impact driver and that has gotten out every stuck hinge bolt I have attempted to remove.

I use the manual impact driver as a last resort because you can risk body damage when you strike the impact driver with the mini sledge hammer.
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77kafer
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Semper_Dad wrote:


BFH + KD 1140 + #4 Bit
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


= Success


Good job. Very Happy Keep in mind that a 2 lb. ball peen hammer would have worked also instead of the mini sledge.
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kubelmann
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My mini sledge weighs 24 oz. and looks like the pic you posted.... I guess I might have used the wrong word for the tool.
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kubelmann wrote:
This is mostly a review of others posts but I offer it as a list.

1. I start with my #4 phillips socket on a ratchet handle.
2. If it does not come out, I attach the #4 to my battery powered impact gun.
3. If this does not work I apply PB blaster and wait. Then I try tool one and two again.
4. If still no luck a second application of PB blaster is applied and a longer wait is given. Finally I use my manual impact driver and that has gotten out every stuck hinge bolt I have attempted to remove.

I use the manual impact driver as a last resort because you can risk body damage when you strike the impact driver with the mini sledge hammer.


I was biting my lip on each whack. Didn't put full force into it.
I pretty much followed your level of force with the exception of the PB Blaster.

In my case the car had been repainted with the hinges still on and effectively "sealed" the screw into the countersink of the hinge. PB blaster or any other penetrate would have never made it in.

I took a sharp awl and scribed around the screwhead to break the shell. I also scored around the hinge with a razor blade so when I pulled it off the hinge there would be less chance the paint would peel off around hinge area. It worked.
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kubelmann
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

totally understand the "no PB" zone I know exactly what you mean about the hand held impact tool. I have seen others do damage with it. As a result I use it very gently and sparingly on our precious vintage bath tubs.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would recommend using only a #4 philips tip on those
When you remove the screw whack that impact tool on forward first, this will free it up and then back it out.
I would use some pb blaster also.
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Ferretkona
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a #4 in my cordless impact and they backed out nice and clean. I had tried my 10V Bosch but it was not enough, I used a Hitachi 18V and it backed out. Have to keep the bit in tight so you do not mess up the screw.
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