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stuck trying to lower the square
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asesapie
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 6:11 pm    Post subject: stuck trying to lower the square Reply with quote

so i watched the videos on you tube on how to lower a type 3 and started to go at it witht he front end. trouble is i cant seem to get that 30mm nut off that holds the lower arm on that needs to come off. is there any trick to getting this busted loose?
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BrianD
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soak them with some kroil penetrating oil (http://www.kanolabs.com/) and use a good impact wrench. It might take a couple of days of re-applying and soaking.
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rowanfry
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big ass breaker bar...it will be tight
Failing that you could always loosen the lower pinch bolt, just loosen it a touch then rotate the balljoint so it takes pressure off the bolt and it should unwide the rest of the way and slide out, if you dont take the pressure off it and unwind it you will damage the threads.

Sometimes you can get lucky and you don't have to unmount the lower arm at all, just slide that sucker out, rotate the assembly up a couple of clicks and slide it back in, this method can be a bit tricky but saves the hassle of trying to remove more parts.
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asesapie
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I already tried a giant breaker bar with a part of my jack handle for an extension and that thing still didn't want to move.
Yeah I was going to try the penetrating oil but was unsure if it would affect the ball joint boots. but i will try that.
That leaving it all together sounds harder with trying to slide it out attached, like you would really have to smack it hard and i don't want to mess the threads up, unless theres a better way to pound the torsion rods out.
for now im going to keep at it on those stupid nuts.
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Aaron M265
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know what your going through. I have lowered dozens of these T3's. Big breaker bar is the go. Be firm with it and dont be afraid to apply a lot of pressure.

I have had the nuts effectively welded to the balljoint via rust so you may end up screwing up a ball joint so have a spare handy just in case...

Heat also works and so will penetrating fluid etc.

Dont lose the plot if you screw it up though, just replace the grbage parts with good and enjoy. It's an old car so dont get bent out of shape if something goes tits-up.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 2:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The VW gods are talking to you. They are saying "Don't fuck with the car, Daniel". Laughing
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eschmidt14
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe im reading your post wrong but are you trying to take your ball joints off or the lower control arm cause the lower control arm is on with a 19mm nut and a allen head grub screw.
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turbomicrowaves
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
The VW gods are talking to you. They are saying "Don't fuck with the car, Daniel". Laughing


Tram may be right. I have had many difficulties when lowering cars. Sometimes it feels like there are mysterious powers at work.
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 4:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

eschmidt14 wrote:
maybe im reading your post wrong but are you trying to take your ball joints off or the lower control arm cause the lower control arm is on with a 19mm nut and a allen head grub screw.


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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

eschmidt14 wrote:
maybe im reading your post wrong but are you trying to take your ball joints off or the lower control arm cause the lower control arm is on with a 19mm nut and a allen head grub screw.


x2! I never mess with the 30mm nuts raising/lowering.
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asesapie
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I'm taking some good advice here and I'm just going to leave be and not mess with it. It was a thought I was toying with and I'm not going to anymore
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turbomicrowaves
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asesapie wrote:
Yeah I'm taking some good advice here and I'm just going to leave be and not mess with it. It was a thought I was toying with and I'm not going to anymore


I have lowered mine and other cars by removing the 30mm nut and also by loosening the pinch bolt, either way you get the same result. You just have to make sure everything is oriented the correct way.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or you could just remove the upper ball joint nut, and the caliper, remove and replace the opposite end bolt with a longer 1, and pull and swing the trailing arm and spindle together. I've done that before (it's called an inner spline drop). The reason for the longer bolt, is so that you don't have the torsion bar fall out of it's socket (makes it easier to get back in place). Doing it that way takes less than 30 minutes a side, but you still have to reset the toe in (it'll be about 3/4s to 1 inch out).
Remember, both ends of the torsion bar are splined. Wink
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sharkskinman
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i try to tell people but depending hon how much you are lowering
you can lower 1-2 inner splines with out taking anything but the shock and the torsion bolt out

jack the car up and take the wheel off
loosen the torsion bolt as you would normally
but put a jack under the arm you are dealing with

pull it out and feel where it is then raise the jack each spline
checking that you have made each
and mark where you can for reference


i have lowered 1 car(my 71 fasty)
lowered and raised 1 car (my old 70 square)
and raised 1 car(friends 70 fasty)

and neither did i take anything apart
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rowanfry
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with sharkskinman, in most cases there is no need to remove anything..unless you have flipped tie rods, in which case they can get in they way when trying to raise the car
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USMCDubbin
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pardon my HJ but I'm stuck lowering the rear and I also watched the videos, got the spring plates off the shelf, and now I can't break the seal so that I can move the splines.... I've been at it for hours trying to get the dang rubber seal to pop. Help please? Very Happy
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turbomicrowaves
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NorCalSquare wrote:
Pardon my HJ but I'm stuck lowering the rear and I also watched the videos, got the spring plates off the shelf, and now I can't break the seal so that I can move the splines.... I've been at it for hours trying to get the dang rubber seal to pop. Help please? Very Happy


Just keep prying near the seal with a decent sized pry bar.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

turbomicrowaves wrote:
NorCalSquare wrote:
Pardon my HJ but I'm stuck lowering the rear and I also watched the videos, got the spring plates off the shelf, and now I can't break the seal so that I can move the splines.... I've been at it for hours trying to get the dang rubber seal to pop. Help please? Very Happy


Just keep prying near the seal with a decent sized pry bar.


Yup, I've had a few that didn't want to come loose. Keep prying close to the torsion bar cover, and it'll come. Sometimes you need a second pry bar.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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turbomicrowaves
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
turbomicrowaves wrote:
NorCalSquare wrote:
Pardon my HJ but I'm stuck lowering the rear and I also watched the videos, got the spring plates off the shelf, and now I can't break the seal so that I can move the splines.... I've been at it for hours trying to get the dang rubber seal to pop. Help please? Very Happy


Just keep prying near the seal with a decent sized pry bar.


Yup, I've had a few that didn't want to come loose. Keep prying close to the torsion bar cover, and it'll come. Sometimes you need a second pry bar.


I use a giant flat head screwdriver and a prybar. You can also use a hammer to help wedge the prybar between the spring plate and subframe.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

turbomicrowaves wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
turbomicrowaves wrote:
NorCalSquare wrote:
Pardon my HJ but I'm stuck lowering the rear and I also watched the videos, got the spring plates off the shelf, and now I can't break the seal so that I can move the splines.... I've been at it for hours trying to get the dang rubber seal to pop. Help please? Very Happy


Just keep prying near the seal with a decent sized pry bar.


Yup, I've had a few that didn't want to come loose. Keep prying close to the torsion bar cover, and it'll come. Sometimes you need a second pry bar.


I use a giant flat head screwdriver and a prybar. You can also use a hammer to help wedge the prybar between the spring plate and subframe.


Yup, had to do that on my 71 Notch. It was stuck on there good. Ended breaking it loose when the inner splines moved (bar and all came out). Surprised
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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