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77 will not start after being pulled into garage
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duster73
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 11:58 am    Post subject: 77 will not start after being pulled into garage Reply with quote

help, I have been working on my westy now and then, It starts up after 3 turn overs always. I recently pulled it out of my garage, worked on it and put it away, well today i went out to start and it just turns over. my van has been running great for a year with never having this problem. The only thing I could remotly see is that i was manipulating wires by fuse box to replace my HI/LOW beam relay, but it did not need replaced just jiggled it. My van started after i did that but the next day it did not start. Ive checked the coil connections and rolled all the fuses, it has fuel in it. Im stumped, can anyone tell me what simple thing im overlooking.
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dugfresh
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd check I've your fuses one by one.. Clean confections... Look for any wires that could have popped loose
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ncstagger
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are u getting gas in the carb when throttle is pumped?

Do you have spark at the plugs?


What year/engine is your bus?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would start by having a pretty good look at the battery connections to the ground and to the starter and make those 100% clean and tight. Then go over and have a look at the chasiss ground strap and make that 100% also.

You might as weklll start there since it is easy and free to do. Stick your volt ohm meter on the battery and see if it has adequate voltage in it.

Report back if that doesn't work and we will tell you how to jump the solenoid to test it.
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spin the fuses to create a clean contact area for the fuses to connect to. then wiggle all your wires again on the back. there should be a fat red wire, possibly with a black stripe, that connects to the back of the fuse block. if that wire has a loose connection, it wont get power where it needs to go.


if you take the center wire off the distributor cap, and hold it above a ground about a 1/16th of an inch and crank start it, does the wire spark? if so, what color? if not, is there power to the positive side of the coil with the key on? (terminal 15)
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

3 things are needed. Check each.
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"There are no great men, there are only great challenges that ordinary men are forced by circumstances to meet." - Adm William F. Halsey Jr

Caveat: I am not telling you what to, or what not to do. When a suggestion is offered, it is wishing you the best, and is based on my experiences as a mechanic, automotive machinist, and from racing in the era your bus came to life. My only goal is to share what has been learned on my path. Smile

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your ignition and FI circuits are unfused so you shouldn't need to be worrying about your fuses. The power to the coil and the trigger for the FI does run through the box, but not through a fuse.

Check to see if you have power to the coil when the ignition is on and get back to us.
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Your ignition and FI circuits are unfused so you shouldn't need to be worrying about your fuses. The power to the coil and the trigger for the FI does run through the box, but not through a fuse.

Check to see if you have power to the coil when the ignition is on and get back to us.


i was pretty sure there is a fuse up front for either the starter or the ignition...Confused
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuartzickefoose wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Your ignition and FI circuits are unfused so you shouldn't need to be worrying about your fuses. The power to the coil and the trigger for the FI does run through the box, but not through a fuse.

Check to see if you have power to the coil when the ignition is on and get back to us.


i was pretty sure there is a fuse up front for either the starter or the ignition...Confused


Here is the wiring diagram, the route of the #15 circuit is kind of Rube Goldbergish (thanks VW) but you will find no fuse between the ignition switch and the double relay. There is also no fuse in the #50 circuit to the starter, nor in the main power supply to the double relay.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Click twice to enlarge
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Stuartzickefoose wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Your ignition and FI circuits are unfused so you shouldn't need to be worrying about your fuses. The power to the coil and the trigger for the FI does run through the box, but not through a fuse.

Check to see if you have power to the coil when the ignition is on and get back to us.


i was pretty sure there is a fuse up front for either the starter or the ignition...Confused


Here is the wiring diagram, the route of the #15 circuit is kind of Rube Goldbergish (thanks VW) but you will find no fuse between the ignition switch and the double relay. There is also no fuse in the #50 circuit to the starter, nor in the main power supply to the double relay.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Click twice to enlarge


got it. Thanks Smile
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