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Budget rail rebuild and dual carbs project
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GoMopar440
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Joined: February 06, 2015
Posts: 491
Location: Montana
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 10:24 pm    Post subject: Budget rail rebuild and dual carbs project Reply with quote

I swapped my WR450 dirt bike for a sand rail about two months ago. It was pretty ragged out when I got it and I've been fixing it up as I have had time and money to do so.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


First to go was the worn out original bug pedal assembly which got swapped out for an aftermarket hydraulic unit. The new pedal assy needed a bit of tuning up as it was a cheap no-name chinese knock off. Same with the hyd slave cylinder. I was expecting there to be some issues with the new parts so there wasn't anything I could't fix with a lathe, mill or welder.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also made the throttle cable yoke that attached to the new gas pedal as well as an adjustable cable end connector. The gas pedal needed a forward stop to keep it from falling flat of the floor towards, me so I milled one out of a piece of scrap aluminum I had on hand.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The throttle cable was very stiff and when I pulled it apart to check it out I found the cable tube to be packed almost solid with grease and dirt. A drill and a straightened out metal coat hanger cleared the crud out of the tube pretty quick.

The brake lines were mostly replaced with some of the NiCo ones from the local parts store. Since the new brake MC only had one outlet I made a brake line distribution block out of aluminum. It has one inlet on the drivers side, two outlets on the front, one outlet going to the rear and a port on top for the brake light switch.

The hyd line lock isn't legal for street use so that will be getting removed in the future. It will be replaced with cable actuated parking brakes on the calipers when I replace the rear drums with disks. For now I will just be replacing the broken off bleeder in the rear pass wheel cylinder so I can bleed the brakes. I want to swap the drums with disks all the way around, but I haven't decided if I want to buy one of the kits I've seen online or just piece together my own kits with readily available auto parts store pieces. I'm still researching my options at this time before I make my mind up.

The rear cage around the engine needed the lights updated so I can pass inspection to get my tags. I welded some brackets for the amber turn signal and clear back up lights. I also pieced together a license plate mount with a plate light and welded some mounting points to the cage as well. The stinger on the exhaust was bent down and the kink was restricting the exhaust flow by about 50% so I bought some dual cannons that were clearanced for dual carbs.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The aftermarket aluminum valve covers had holes drilled and tapped in top center side and one was taped off and the other was just left wide open. I had an oil breather tank left over from a turbo Honda project a few years ago so I installed that to the frame and ran new hoses from the valve covers to it.
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I noticed some black plastic shavings in the fuel filter so I ran all new fuel line and put in a new filter as well. The fuel shut off valve was originally placed above the driver side rear wheel so when I ran the new fuel hose I relocated the fuel shutoff valve where it was accessible by the seated occupants from between the seats.

The battery box was replaced with a larger one I had from a bass boat project to allow me to put just about any size battery in there I want to. The box was bolted to the floor and I made a new strap to keep it closed out of an old broken ratchet tie down and a backpack buckle.

The front axle is welded solid to the frame rather than clamped. That was probably a good thing for the PO that managed to tweak the frame and bend the front axle. However that means I now have a lot more work to be able to fix it properly. I'm thinking of just running the buggy with it's twisted frame and axle as is for now and just fix up what I have right now. Sort of like a rolling test bed. Next year I'd like to get a Bee Line Rat Pack frame kit and fiberglass body kit, build that up and then swap everything over from the old frame.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

http://beelinechassis.net/1packrat98.html

The lights above and below the windshield area were removed and the smaller of the two sets were cleaned up and painted to be reused The larges ones were replaced with a set of Hella lights I had left over from my jeep project. I made some new mounts from some 1" square tubing and then welded them to the front axle top tube.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The rear tires are 31x10.5's and the fronts and spare are 165ish (stock bug size). The 31's will be staying but I'll be swapping the front and spare tires for some 7.00x15's later. That should help fix the nose down rake to the buggy a bit. I will also be adding either some 3" lift spindles or Thing spindles as well to fix the rake issue. Here a couple of pics of the side of the buggy to show the rake. In the second pic I jacked up the front end 3" to give an approximation of how it will sit after the new tires and spindles.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After doing a lot of reading and researching here on the Samba and elsewhere on the web I've come to the decision to run a Bosch 034 dist with my Solex 34 PICT-3. I have one on it's way in the mail to me now and some original Bosch parts (cap, rotor, points and condenser) to rebuild it when it gets here. I will of course check and set the valves first and then do the timing when I reinstall the distributor.

I bought a second 34 PICT-3 carb to rebuild so I could leave the current one in place so I can still use the buggy in the meantime.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The plan is to swap the old carb out with the rebuilt one, tune & jet it and then rebuild the first carb to identical specs. However I noticed that I'm missing a lever from the new to me carb so I'll have to locate that piece as well as most of the choke pieces before it will be ready. After the original carb is rebuilt, tuned and jetted to match the new carb specs, I will swap it back on to the buggy and make sure I got that one done right as well, then tune and it as well.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have already rebuilt the new carb, apart from the missing lever and choke pieces I still need to find and buy. I kept as many of the original Solex parts as I could rather than just throwing everything from the chinese rebuild kit in there. I also bought a throttle shaft bushing kit since the old ones came out of the carb when I pulled the throttle shaft out to clean it. They are steel backed and PTFE lined so they should be good to go for a long time once they are installed.

One of the biggest complaints I've heard about the 34 PICT-3 carbs is the small 26mm venturi in them. Well, I've got some good news and some bad news. First the Bad: When I pulled the venturi from the new carb, it was marked "26mm" and "Solex". However when I measured the venturi opening in a number of different places it appears that the bore is actually 25.5mm. The Good: It can be remade better. I chucked the venturi up in my lathe and opened up the bore. I stopped at 28mm as I didn't want the venturi wall thickness to get too thin. That appears to be the max the stock venturi can be opened up to. Since I had the lathe already, it didn't cost me anything to make the change to the venturi. I took the venturi over to my polisher with a finger mandrel and put a mirror shine on the bore to minimize drag on air passing through it.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Since I will have two good carbs on hand when done, I decided to see if there was a way I could run them both as a set of duals on my stock 1600 DP engine. I couldn't find any info online of anyone that had tried to run dual 34 PICT-3's before so I guess I'll be learning as I go. If it works I'll leave the info here as a sort of How-To guide for anyone else that might want to give it a shot.

The first hurdle was the fact that I couldn't find a set of intakes that were specifically made for the 34 PICT-3 carbs. No one I asked could tell me for sure if there was a kit for that application or not. I took a chance and ordered a kit based on the picture that was used in most of the ads I saw. The closest kit I found was a EMPI intake kit for dual Solex/Brosol/Kadron carbs (EMPI part# 43-4412). I ran into the same lack of info with the dual carb linkage kits. I settled on the EMPI Type 1 Dual Linkage kit (part# 43-4410) to give me something to start with. I'm not a fan of EMPI stuff from what I've seen of it, but I had to have something to start with. One way to make the intakes less of an eyesore was to file and sand off the large "EMPI"name off of the individual intake runners. I also removed the extra unused balance port from each manifold.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The parts arrived a couple of days ago and the first thing I did was to gasket match the ports to the supplied gaskets to remove any steps. That was a mistake. I should have checked it with the gaskets that came in the carb rebuild kits FIRST. The Solex 34 PICT-3 intake gaskets have a smaller, by about 2mm, diameter bore than the gaskets that came with the intake kit. I can fix that by making a sheet metal shim to place between the carb and the intake that will support the gasket where it covers the passages in the base of the carb. The other big thing I noticed was that the bolt holes were closer together on the 34 PICT-3 gaskets than what was on the intake and it's gasket. I also noticed that the intake had threaded carb mounting holes. The 34 PICT-3 has a stud on the rear mount and a threaded hole out front. To make it work I had to put tape over the existing intake carb mounting holes and trace out the 34 PICT-3 gasket, with all the holes aligned to the center of the bore and the center line of the existing bolt holes. I traced the 34 PICT-3 bolt holes from the gasket and then milled them out with a 5/16" endmill. The new holes intersected with the threaded holes, but there is enough metal around the new holes to keep the bolts in place. When I placed a carb on the intake it fit perfectly and it bolted up solidly. However here was no room for the accelerator pump rod to move without dragging on the side of the intake so I put them back into the mill and milled about 1/16" off each side. Now there was plenty of room for the accelerator pump rod to move fully through it's entire range of motion without hitting the intake anywhere. Since I hadn't decided on which direction I was going to mount the intakes and carbs, I made sure to shave the same amount off both sides on the top of both the intakes.

So that covers most of the work I've done to the buggy to date. I haven't had a chance to mess with the linkage yet so I'm not sure yet what I will need to do to it to make it work. I will update this thread as I make progress on it. I've got plenty of time to work on it since I'm retired, but I'm operating on a fixed/limited budget so that will probably be the biggest hold up on this project.

If anyone else has been down this road before feel free to offer up any insight or critiques on what I'm doing. Jetting help would be greatly appreciated since I'm not too well versed in that area. For the record I live at 5000' so I know I'll have to deal with that before all is said and done.

BTW: It looks like I'll have to figure out how to post pics on this forum. The way I usually do it in other forums doesn't seem to be working here.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493


Last edited by GoMopar440 on Tue Jun 09, 2015 11:50 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Aerindel
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neat look project. I understand the challenge of picking up where somebody else left off on a rail. Thats how I got here.

To post pics use the IMG code like this

IMG]http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k418/GoMopar440/VW%20Sand%20Rail/DSC_0898.jpg[/IMG

Add a [ to the front and read of above to get this:

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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, thanks for the tip. I'll try to go back and fix the links to the pics.

BTW: What part of MT are you in? I'm located a little west of Butte, just a couple of miles off I-90.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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Aerindel
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm just north of Missoula. Its cool to see someone else in MT with a rail. I was starting to get the feeling that I had the only one north of Oregon. At some point I need to find a way to hook up with someone in person and work out a few things that I haven't been able to figure out online.

I was given a used/half finished rail from my father in law in Spokane and have spent the last year getting it drivable, half the work was trying to re-furbish old parts and figure out what the original intention was for many loose parts that I was given. This is also a pay as you go project so I'm always working on one thing while trying to enjoy what I already have as much as possible.


I don't have a build thread going yet but here is a pic I took yesterday:

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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice buggy. I think I saw the post where you picked that up a while ago, but I didn't notice your location at the time.

I didn't see any tags on it in the pic. Are you going to make it streetable or just keep it off road only?

I'll try to remember to send you a PM the next time I'm planning on heading up to Missoula. It's a little over an hour drive from here to get to Missoula so I don't head up that way very often.

BTW: Sorry about the novel sized first thread post. I had a couple of months worth of work to get caught up on and didn't realize how large the post had gotten until after I hit the "Submit" button.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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Aerindel
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Are you going to make it streetable or just keep it off road only?


My plan is to eventually get it fully street legal and use it as my summer car.

But this summer I think I'm just going to try and register it as an street legal OHV as that is simpler, (no windshield or front brakes needed)

So far though its completely unregistered and I've just been driving it on the back roads around my house. I actually could really use some advice from someone who has registered such a vehicle in Montana as I really don't know where to start. I assume I need to get a title and VIN for it somehow but I don't know how that works...and I live 65 miles from my counties DMV so I haven't made the drive yet just to ask.
_________________
Homemade woods/street, bug out rail. IRS, Balljoint front end. 1967 1600cc DP, Weber 32/36 progressive, tri-mil quiet pack. Rear only cutting brakes.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=630046
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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have the tunnel with the VIN stamped on it as part of your buggy? If so you can get the VIN verified by a LEO and register it as what it was mainly built from (ie: a 19XX VW Beetle). In my case there is no VIN on the buggy as the frame floor is built completely from steel tube and aluminum sheet. I'll have to apply for a state assigned VIN from the state DMV office in Deer Lodge. Then I can get the VIN verified by a local LEO and apply for a title and tags. Just a tip on that subject. Try to get them to state the year built as being 10 years or more old. If they do that then your tags will be cheaper and you can apply for permanent tags.

As far as street equipment required, I'm still researching that. I do know you have to have a muffled exhaust. That was one of the reasons I had to replace my 4 into 1 stinger exhaust with the dual cannons. The E-brake has to be a separate mechanical system. The hydraulic line lock like I have won't cut it if the DMV inspector reads the checklist properly. I had a form that listed the rest of the requirements but I don't know where it is at the moment. I got it from the local tax/tag office in Anaconda but you might be able to find on the state DMV website in the Forms section.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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Aerindel
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, mine is an all homebuilt frame so I'm starting from scratch.

What I do know is that MT has a street legal off highway vehicle category that is a lot more forgiving than the normal street legal requirements and allows you to drive everywhere but highways which is okay with my for right now. It only states that you need one working brake and a parking brake which isn't specified as mechanical or not. You also don't need a windshield or windshield wipers which makes it a lot easier.

This is what I found. It lists "dune buggies" as an example vehicle so I am hopeful I can do this as it looks much easier that going full street legal.

http://leg.mt.gov/bills/mca_toc/23_2_8.htm

Thats a good tip about the build date. The frame probably was started that long ago, I have no way to prove that though...I guess I just need to bite the bullet and drive up to the DMV and get the process started.

One thing I've been worried about is my dual cannons, those suckers are pretty loud and I'm worried they won't pass. The max for an OHV is 96 DB and my phone's decible app measures mine at 91.....at idle.

There is also the issue of spark arresters, those seem to be required and I'm not sure how to add those to dual cannons. Personally, I am shopping for a quiet merged header exhaust, which I have been told improves performance as well as being a little subtler...they don't call those cannons for nothing.
_________________
Homemade woods/street, bug out rail. IRS, Balljoint front end. 1967 1600cc DP, Weber 32/36 progressive, tri-mil quiet pack. Rear only cutting brakes.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=630046
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Scott88ag
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I changed from dual cannons (came with the rail) to a 4 into 1 stinger.
I put a fiberglass wrapped baffle in the stinger, and now it's liveable.
Not sure I'd have trouble getting it inspected either way. The guy doing the check was having too much fun driving my rail around the parking lot to notice it was a little loud.
Very Happy

You are supposed to get better performance from a 4 to 1 because there's no back-pressure in a dual cannon set up.
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice rail.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

When I saw this pic, I thought of this
[Admin note- non-VW pictures are deleted from the gallery]
& I wanna be rocked to sleep in that.
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Aerindel
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My first thought was that it was some kind of sprint car.

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_________________
Homemade woods/street, bug out rail. IRS, Balljoint front end. 1967 1600cc DP, Weber 32/36 progressive, tri-mil quiet pack. Rear only cutting brakes.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=630046
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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't take credit for the frame since it was all built by a PO. I am trying to get it updated and maintained so I can use it with reliability in mind. Performance will come later. Right now I'm mainly working on updating the wiring and lights for the street.

The canopy over it was from a porch swing my dad gave me. I hung the swing from the rafters with chains so I could get the frame off the porch to free up some extra space. Ever since then it's been used for lots of different stuff. It comes in pretty handy when you want to keep on working outside when the sudden afternoon rain showers pop up.

The dual cannons are only temporary to get me through the state inspection. After that I'll clean the rust off the 4 into 1 stinger exhaust pipes and cerokote them. I need to get a new megaphone tip and baffle for it when I can afford it. The one that came on the buggy when I got it had the stinger bent down and was kinked pretty badly at the bend creating a tight spot. At least the dual cannons on it now have baffles built in and are definitely quieter than the previous stinger setup.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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notime2d8
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GoMopar440 wrote:
I can't take credit for the frame since it was all built by a PO. I am trying to get it updated and maintained so I can use it with reliability in mind. Performance will come later. Right now I'm mainly working on updating the wiring and lights for the street.

The canopy over it was from a porch swing my dad gave me. I hung the swing from the rafters with chains so I could get the frame off the porch to free up some extra space. Ever since then it's been used for lots of different stuff. It comes in pretty handy when you want to keep on working outside when the sudden afternoon rain showers pop up.

The dual cannons are only temporary to get me through the state inspection. After that I'll clean the rust off the 4 into 1 stinger exhaust pipes and cerokote them. I need to get a new megaphone tip and baffle for it when I can afford it. The one that came on the buggy when I got it had the stinger bent down and was kinked pretty badly at the bend creating a tight spot. At least the dual cannons on it now have baffles built in and are definitely quieter than the previous stinger setup.



Hey, you wouldn't be interested in selling me one of those fancy brake distribution blocks would you? Maybe even post it in classifieds to fund your project?
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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly, but I'm not an advertiser here so it would be better to discuss the topic via PM.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 3:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still looking for parts for the rebuilt carb so that's been put on the back burner for a little while. In the meantime I redesigned the brake distribution block. I made the new one smaller and with one less forward port. I also made some matching T's to split the front line to the left and right up by the front axle. I made another T for the rear as well so I can remove the nonfunctional hydraulic line lock and the dual handle cutter brake. The second T will go where the end of the cutter brake is now. I'll put the cutter brake back in the rail after I have a chance to rebuild it. I won't be needing the cutter for a while anyway since I'm mostly going to be using this rail on the street.

Here's the pic of the two sets of distribution blocks and T's. The second set is already spoken for. I used a large block of T6 aluminum to make the blocks and the screws are stainless steel.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The two larger blocks in front are the distribution blocks and the T's are on the back row in the pic. The T on the far right is upside down so you can see how much smaller the bolt hole is than the countersink hole for the bolt head on top. The tops of the bolt heads sit exactly flush with the top of the distribution blocks and T's when bolted down.
_________________
Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the junkyard Bosch 034 distributor from daanbc in the mail today. I already tore it down, cleaned, painted and reassembled it. It was pretty gunked up internally and everything felt draggy and sticky. I polished all the parts that moved in or on other parts and lubed it up upon reassembly. There are a few small pieces that looked iffy, but I don't have any spares for them so I'll try to run them as is for now. I already bought some new original Bosch parts for it (cap, rotor, points and condenser) but I didn't like the looks of the rotor or condenser so I cleaned and reused those original parts. I just used the points and cap from the new parts. I still need to find another cap clip for it but I may just use one of the clips off of my 009 when I swap it out.

The before pics:
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And the after pics:
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks very pretty.

Is that O-Ring new also? It should be if it isn't already.
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Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails built in the Mojave Desert
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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a little while before I'm ready to drop it in yet. It's the old O-ring that came with it, but it's on the short list of items that I'm going to replace before swapping the distributors.
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Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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GoMopar440
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No pics today but I did get the brake line adapters fitted to the new brake distribution block and T's. I also disconnected the lines going to and from the hydraulic line lock and the cutter brake.

The cutter and the line lock will be removed tomorrow and then I can bolt in the new parts to the floor. Then I need to straighten out the lines going to the front and shorten and reflare them to match up with the new T location.

I got a new bleeder for the rear wheel cylinder but the old one is being stubborn and is refusing to budge. I have it soaked with PB Blaster so hopefully I'll be able to get it out tomorrow.

I'll remember to take some pics tomorrow, I promise. Wink
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Homemade rail for street & off road: BJ front beam (bent), IRS rear (boxed/maybe bent), stock T1 DP 1600, 009, 34PICT-3 (soon to be dual 40HPMXs), 4-1 glass pack exh, T3 brakes (F disk, R drum & Dual MC), Bug trans (002, 5 rib going in soon).
Link to my rail (re)build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=629493
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's so much fun sprucing these things up isn't it?
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