Syncro front spring compressor (Harbor Freight + 4.75" spacers)

[Sodo]

Just so it's in the database..... Tool info with a PHOTO.

Here is a PIC of the Harbor Freight spring compressor 63262 $34.95 fitted to the Syncro front springs. In this pic, the spring is "loose" at this point.

Notice there are spacers on the bolts cut from 1/2" electrical conduit. The conduit fits pretty tight, any tighter and it wouldn't slide on. I'd bring your spring compressor bolts into the store and be sure they slide into the onduit before walking out with 10 feet of it. 4 3/4 inches long works fine.
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'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[ragnarhairybreeks]

Tom,

I use the same compressors but cut the bolts down rather than use spacers. I think your method works better, easier wrench access to bolts.

I found the retaining pins with the spring loaded balls t be poorly made and on mine they jam.


Alistair
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'86 7 passenger syncro, converted to westy pop top, project still in progress
'82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94, now gone...
https://shufti.blog/
Old address still works...
http://shufti.wordpress.com

[Zeitgeist 13]

Take note that the threaded rods are bent under pressure up at the top, which can also allow them to jam in the compressed position. I had a HF clamshell compressor jam and bind up tight in partial compression on a BMW E36 front strut--it was not fun using three compressors like you have to compress the spring enough to dismantle the clamshell.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Sodo]

Sir Hairybreeks I'm all for modifying a $35 tool to fit the task at hand, but also recall the bitter taste of "cutters remorse" and iits not pleasant.

Not suprising they are flexed, but they turn nicely with moly-lube. At first test I tried it only with the light oil that was on the tool and it seemed like a grease was necessary on the threads.

I have some liqui moly that I ordered on Amazon to "dose" an ailing transaxle (the "9,000 mile" rebuild). After looking at the oil that came out of the trans it was obviously beyond the restorative capabilities of any elixir. But it's been useful having the MoS2 lube around the shop for high-pressure sliding situations. I use it for my riv-nuts rig. It makes a significant difference lubricating threads (sliding surfaces). The off-axis forces that try to bend this compressor bolt is an ideal situation for moly-lubes (sliding).

Down at the bottom bolt head it looks like a lot of flex but up where the action is there's not much bending. The little spring keepers of this unit are at max size for this spring compressor for OEM Syncro springs. Another indicator this unit is about maxed out (per HF's design) on Syncro springs. But it works, it turns smoothly (greased).
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'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[Kombi///M3]

Very good Tom.. I have the same..make more sense

[flomulgator]

That is briliant, I am doing the exact same job on my bmw with the exact same tool. On the bimmer though the front strut goes up into a bell structure. If it copied your example I could grab all 4 coils and make my life a lot easier.
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She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro!

[vanonimous]

Wow, I re-bushed my whole front/rear suspension without spring compressor, I didn't even know one is needed.
After unbolting upper control arm, radius rod, sway bar, steering rod end and loosening the top shock nut most of the way there was almost no pressure on the spring. But my Syncro is stock height so that might be why.
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If happiness is being a mechanic, owning a Vanagon is nirvana.

Lighting upgrades: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=578291

[Sodo]

Van, you could be right. But when I was unscrewing the nut at top, and down to as few threads as I thought I should go, it still had tension. I didn't know how much. I THOUGHT I read in the Bentley a spring compressor was required so I bought one and proceeded in that path.

Now that it's apart I can see how you could probably do it with a jack from below, but I took the lower control arm off FIRST thus it never occurred to me.

TheSamba needs to be a thread titled "How to change a Syncro front shock".
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'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[danfromsyr]

Sodo add a washer or 2 to the 'bearing surface' between the nut head and the conduit spacer will help in letting things turn easier.
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[Sodo]

A couple thick washers with my secret sauce between them would reduce the friction against the face. But it "feels like" the real friction comes from the bending of the compressor bolts (in their threads).

In any case it looks like the way to do this is to remove the top nut while there is weight on the ground (wheels). Then (with no nut at top) just lift the vehicle weight off the spring with a hydraulic jack lifting the chassis(??). Reassembly may be difficult if the shock is not gas-charged..

I could have benefitted (years ago) from a Samba thread titled "How to change a Syncro front shock."
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'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[Zeitgeist 13]

When I did this job on a stock Syncro, I used a combination of floor jack and compressors like yours. I had to use the screw compressors because the whole van lifted up rather than allowing the spring to compress, so it needed a little help.

When I make my own tools that rely on threaded rod I use the thick washers and flat roller bearings I've removed from old AC compressors. This can greatly reduce friction against whatever the rod is pressing against.

This is a better compressor for Syncro springs

https://shop.ktcautotools.com/products/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-bmw-toyota-honda
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Pcforno]

I've done this onerous job a number of times-

Stock springs- easy- disconnect radius arm and sway bar end link and it slides right in and out

Not stock springs- if you are redoing your front end then do exactly like Sodo has done and place the LCA under the positioned shock/strut combo which is hanging by it's top nut

Not stock springs- If you are not redoing front end then you absolutely need a spring conpressor and a lot of patience, the worst part is getting the shocks top end to clear the spring perch then center it in the hole. If anyone has tips for this I'd love to hear it!!

[vanonimous]

[Sodo]

Works good reassembling too.

and as one feller on this forum ends his posts at times....

heh

GoWesty caught me in a moment of weakness. I can't believe race-shocks are available for a Vanagon.
If someday they're unobtanium I'll be glad I got them when I could.
I do like my gravel roads....
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'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb