1986 Doka Syncro Swedish Firetruck (14") Survivor - PIC HEAVY

[TKentT]

Some of you had asked for further pics of my newly acquired firetruck. Since it is scheduled to go into the body shop in a few days, I wanted to capture some "before" pictures to document its original condition. This will NOT be a build thread, since I intend only to freshen the cosmetics and mechanicals, and drive and enjoy it as a somewhat-unique survivor...

First a bit of history on the vehicle, that I have been able to ascertain so far. Originally ordered in Bamboo Yellow with a Brown interior, it went into service on June 5th 1986, so it is late in the production run for that year, having been preordered in March.

It was ordered with these M-code options
F71 -- Alloy wheels 9.5J x 21
094 -- Lockable rear flap (245-248)
210 -- Front differential lock (Syncro models)
218 -- Type label without West-Germany
340 -- Drivers Seat and Backrest Heated (245-256)
992 -- Grid on the rear window (not sure what this means, since it has no rear window defroster -- could this mean the "headache rack?"

It originally came with a DG code, carbed 1.9L, but a used 2.1L MV was installed at about the 55,000km point when the DG blew a head gasket. (It showed 60,400km when I bought it.)

It spent almost 22 years as a firetruck in two different villages (Ulricehamn and later Bollebygd), before being transferred to some other government agency in March 2009 where it then also served as some type of emergency vehicle. Though I don't know what it was doing, it remained there for about 1.5 years until being bought by private individual on September 3, 2010. It was then inspected in October 2010, registering 54,372km.

It was ordered off the road in February 2011, because I think the original engine failed. After a year, it was sold again in February 2012 to the individual who did the MV engine transplant. He never placed it in service. The person I bought it from purchased it from him on January 15, 2017 and it was inspected in February, registering 59,223km. He listed it for sale in May showing 60,392km and I promptly put a deposit on it -- awaiting Mike the Busman to go check it out in person and test drive it, before finalizing the deal. He trailered it back to Belgium, where it finally departed in early June and finally arrived in Savannah GA a couple weeks ago.

The original left treasure chest door was replaced by the same guy who did the engine transplant. The original's hinge had failed, and the skin stress cracked and eventually ripped out. There was fairly significant rust there on the old door, which contributed to its failure also. That original panel is now at the bodyshop for them to use in finding matching paint.

It has been repainted multiple times, in both fire engine red and Bamboo yellow, and now sports these reflective yellow squares on each side of the cab.

In addition to a light bar on the roof, it has had a light installed on each side of the cowl above the low beams -- note the plugs in the holes -- one chrome plug (above) and one black one (below). Since it did not have a radio originally, it has no hole for the normal antenna. Instead, an antenna is mounted to the roof.

Paint on the passenger side is still in good shape, though there is evidence of spray touch-up that doesn't exactly color match. There's also some overspray on both sides to be cleaned up. If it has had seam rust, it has been dealt with -- likely what caused it to be painted silver on the bottom, as opposed to a Tristar's black paint.

The original tarp is still in good physical condition though faded from age. It is not so stiff that I am concerned with it cracking at this point. But I do want to clean it up and put some type of conditioner on it to try to increase its lifespan...

It has the typical Swedish tilt, with an additional crossbar above the tarp on both the front and back -- essentially making a ladder rack above the tarp. This one has big work lights installed on the rear one, on each side, that are wired into the backup lights.

The "diamond plate" bed cover and composite side covers appear to have been on it since new -- they are riveted on and couldn't be easily removed. There is also no evidence on dents/dings by looking into the treasure chest, engine compartment, or outside of the bed gates. It has two "dome lights" installed and wired overhead inside the tilt, but I have yet to find a switch to turn them on. The spare is in the bed because the 205R16s won't fit underneath the back seat where it should go.

The treasure chest, though dirty with use, is dry and shows no rust nor bad dents and dings. I plan on cleaning it out and putting some kind of rubber mat in there to protect it.

The seats have been covered with an industrial-type heavy vinyl seat cover since new. I've removed the front covers and the original brown seats look like new,

Note the condition of this original door panel. It also looks like new. The drivers side has not fared so well -- it looks like the window may have been left open and it got wet or something, with the vinyl puckering and turning loose from the composite panel. I'm undecided what I will do here -- perhaps order an inexpensive pair of brown ones from Bus Depot that do not match these originals. That's pretty low on the priority list....

In addition to the original 14" wheels and the bad original DG engine, it also came with a box of spare parts -- including two packs of the original "rubber bungees" for fastening the Swedish tarp. The box also included the original spats for the wheel arches and a pair of OG rear mud flaps -- but sadly the mounting studs for all of them are rusted so bad they're unusable.

Here you can see the "industrial" seat covers that have been on it. I want to pick up some Scotch Guard for the cloth seats before I remove this one -- the back seat will like haul more "cargo" than people and I don't want to stain it and ruin it.

Note the pasteboard side panel has a huge chunk torn out of it. The one on the rear door is also badly cracked. I've already picked up a 4x8 sheet of .100 HDPE that I'll use to replace these. The HDPE is smooth on both sides, unlike the ABS sheets, but I could not find ABS locally and shipping a full sheet would be expensive. Since the original pasteboard panels in the back were smooth, I thought I'd try sanding the HDPE to roughen it up a bit to hold paint, then paint the panels with Fusion Espresso to better match the brown upholstery.

The original cloth headliner has no rips nor holes and is relatively clean.

The dash has been hacked to install an additional radio. A map light has been installed. It appears to have had something else Velcroed to the top. I'll likely get a Deluxe dash console to install over this scuffed up dash (it would make that map light quite functional), and use a piece of the HDPE (painted flat black) to cover up the holes where the radio was installed.

The front and rear locker knobs have labeled with a Dymo labelmaker... in Swedish of course!

There's a story behind the next two pictures. When I went to pick the truck up at the port, I found it with the battery absolutely dead -- dash lights wouldn't even illuminate, and a piece of red plastic ribbon tied to the driver's door. We jumped it off, and I was able to drive it 15 miles back to condo at the beach where we stayed for a few days. The battery was so dead that it would not take a charge. After driving it for 25-30 minutes, once I shut it off, it still would not illuminate the dash lights... So I ordered a new battery from Autozone and installed it (still need to put the battery cover back on -- but it looks like I'll have to cut that plastic sliding handle off before it will fit down on there.

I putzed around with truck for a couple more days, while the family played at the beach. When we loaded up for the trip home, the new battery was dead. There's a battery cutoff switch installed under the passenger's seat for a reason, apparently. I still want to try tracking down the phantom battery drain, rather than trusting myself to turn disconnect the battery with the switch each time I park it. Note the stray wires in the pic above and below, where equipment has been disconnected -- I hate to think what may be waiting up underneath the dash...

Note also the speaker under the passenger's seat that was used for the rear channel of the cheap Sparkomatic radio/cassette player that's been installed. The front speaker is in the normal location in the center of the dash, but is blown so badly that you can hardly stand to have the radio on. As of now, I'm thinking of putting speakers in the rear HDPE side panels, and installing a new Bluetooth head unit.

With my permission, Mike chopped this much off the four corner posts for the tilt's frame, and unbolted the two huge backup lights installed up there. This allowed the truck to be driven below deck, rather than having to shipped above-deck with the oversize items -- saving me about $500 in shipping costs. I haven't decided if I'll even bother welding these back on or not...

Here's what's showing on the odometer now, having driven it about 300 miles home from the port, then a few local excursions since. (Getting it titled and registered in Tennessee was absolutely no hassle. I took the original Swedish title, registration, and inspection plus the signed Bill of Sale (that Mike wrote up) that had been sent by the shipping line to my local DMV, paid my money and walked out with a title and tag that I took to the port with me to drive home with...

Currently showing 61,208 km, or 38,033 miles... and about 816 km (507 miles) since it was originally listed for sale about the first of May.

Now on to the mechanicals. Here's the 2.1L MV that has been installed. Other than idling a bit rough when warm, it runs quite well. Out on the flat lands, I could comfortably run 65-67MPH (according to my wife following me) without feeling that I was straining the engine. With no tach, it was hard to tell. I had prepared a "cheat sheet" of kilometer > MPH conversions that I temporarily taped to the dash -- only to find out that with the 205R-16 tires it has on it now, that the speedometer was so innaccurate that my cheatsheet was of little value...

Left side of the engine bay...

Right side of the engine bay. I'm not sure what that heavy electrical lead from the alternator thats coiled up there was used for...

It's an armored cable, with a 3 pin outlet...

The area above the tranny -- dusty and dirty, but otherwise clean -- i.e. no oily grime nor rust. To my novice eye, the DG > MV conversion seems to have been done pretty cleanly -- but I've never owned a 2.1, and the 1.9 I owned years ago is a distant memory. I want to have my mechanic check it out thoroughly once it is out of the bodyshop...

In the 400+ miles I've driven it, the oil level has not changed, nor has the coolant. Similarly there's no signs of leaks nor drips underneath.

Overall, it is pretty clean and dry underneath, with no significant rust anywhere I've found yet -- it runs and drives good. Steering is tight, brakes are good (according to PO, front pads were recently replaced), and it handles well for these likely original shocks. There's no rattles, thuds, nor unexpected noises -- though a front rubber bushing somewhere can be heard groaning occasionally. We'll put it on the rack at the bodyshop and look it over more closely, then I'll have the mechanic check it out even closer.

(Those are mud splatters showing up in the pictures, not rust or rot)

Now, a few things that catch my eye -- other than the huge driving lights on the front bumper. The low beams are used as DRLs and the driving lights are wired into the high beams...

First, the Syncro 4x4 emblem in the front grill. From what I can find out, this emblem is unique to the Swedish market. It is a thin sheet of aluminum, riveted onto the grill.

The retaining strap that holds the rear seat down, that seems to often be missing according to what I read here...

The condition of the original rubber mats -- you can tell this thing has been stored inside most of its life, and not outside exposed to UV...

The condition of the original gate latches:

Original jack in the original sack and a warning triangle under the driver's seat -- that's dirt in the bottom of the compartment.

The funky European trailer hitch -- pull the little round knob to release the pin, spin it around until the ball or hitch you want is on top, and release the knob...

I'm sure some are wondering about it going to the bodyshop before it goes to the mechanic. Well, it is running and driving fine and I'm not driving it much. The first things I want addressed is painting that replacement treasure chest door, and dealing with this, the only significant rust that I have found -- the seller disclosed this, so it is NOT a surprise.

While it is there, I'm having him install this new, unopened OEM glass sunroof that was optional on 91 and 92 models, and common on Tristars. I bought this from Lars (TriStar Connection) and had him ship it to Mike in Belgium so it could come over inside the Doka. Lars' doesn't normally ship to the US, according to his store listings...

He's also installing these reproduction sliding rear windows (from Rob in Canada), with new seals from Gunzis... Improving ventilation in this thing for the hot, humid summers in the Southeast is a priority. It was often miserably hot in the cab driving it home from the port, especially when caught in thunderstorms when you can't readily have both windows rolled completely down. (I've already installed a pair of those smoked deflectors over the cab windows so that I can drive in the rain with the windows down slightly.)

Also while it's there, there's a couple sets of decals I'm having installed. First, the lettering BRANDFORSVAR between the yellow checkerboard reflectors. This translates to Fire Brigade, Fire Service, Fire Department...

Then a set of Syncro 4x4 decals in silver to match the silver lower paint. Due to the checkerboard reflectors, the 4x4 decal can't be put in its normal location near the door mirrors, so I'm planning "stack them" on the rear quarter panels, similar to how the 4x4 decals are often installed on US pickups.

Once back from the body shop, I'm ready to replace these Russian 16 inch tires with the original alloys and a set of 225/70x14 Cooper Discoverer M+S tires. Even with its 5:43 r/p, the 16s are simply too tall for a stock 2.1 in the hills/mountains of East Tennessee. I plan to use this locally as a truck, hopefully my daily driver, and not as a long distance freeway cruiser....

Going back to 14" wheels will also provide the clearance to install a set of front and rear SA mudflaps, which will cover the holes where the spats were removed and help protect the rocker panels. I put original German flaps on the 84 Weekender I owned -- I never understood why they mounted so far back behind the wheel openings, making seam problems there more likely, rather than preventing them...

Well, that should give a good sense of what I have and what I have planned for the near term. I want to soon have a prioritzed list of mechanical issues to address such as the remaining cloth-covered fuel lines that weren't changed with the engine swap, perhaps new shocks (these are likely the originals), rubber suspension bushings where needed, any coolant hoses showing their age, etc.
_________________
1952 MG TD Replica, 69 VW IRS pan, 1679cc with 40 HPMXs -- Most fun for the money out there...

1986 Doka Transporter, 14" Syncro w/dual lockers -- 60,000km Swedish firetruck...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=682322

30+ VWs before them...

[16CVs]

Interesting truck. Pretty common for municipalities to paint over any color to make them match their fleet, I am sure there are German versions of " Maaco "
As others will chime in, that truck has original Fuel lines. According to Guys from Germany the fuel lines do not fail as ours do, must have something to do with the fuel mixture. It would be high on my list of things to change.
Take those Treasure chest door stays and unbolt them and put the Grabbers in the hole where they belong, before they grab your shirt or rip your arm. Just take and turn it over at 90Degree angle to the roller and they go right on.
Looks like it had a Gas heater in it or maybe it still does. The shielded 3 pin plug is for a block heater, the main pipe on the left side of the engine should have the cable running into it.
I like the Battery Cutout on the seat base, I have mine there and it is a great idea for everyone to have one as well.
I always laugh when I see covered license plates, What do you do when you park it on the street or drive down the freeway?
I would look at the front glass and make sure you do not have a Tempered front glass. You don't want that blowing up on you.
Great truck. There is actually a thread for Syncro Dokas here on Samba.
See ya around town.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[SamboSamba22]

I saw this Doka in the classifieds, very neat and interesting truck.
Looks like it be fun to haul around in, and certainly capture the eye of many in shows, parades, and around town.
Eager to see the fixing of issues from the bodyshop.
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[TKentT]

[RainierSyncro]

Your van story is almost the same as mine. Transferred to various departments with cheap paint jobs in between and then having to deal with changes done by a private owner. Busman also handled the transaction in Europe. I was lucky to be able to get in service pictures of my van from one of the people at the fire station. Maybe you can contact either town to see if you can get pictures.

Hummm... wait a minute. I just Googled "brandforsvar bollebygd" and found this image from 2006. Might be your van!

Pic from this website:

http://webnews.textalk.com/bollebygdsnyheter-se/raddningstjansten-i-bollebygd-75-ar

[TKentT]

[RainierSyncro]

I also used Google street view to get a look at the fire station, but there is nothing to see since the building is closed up. As for prices in Europe, you're right, they are going up. I bought mine in 2014 for 3,800Euro, but that price is for near junk today. If I had to do it again, I would probably double or even tripled my budget and maybe picked up something much nicer or some special configuration.

I do like those bumper/fog lights. What kind of lights did they use and how is that brush guard installed? Got some more pictures of the set-up?

[TKentT]

I'd guess that you'd need to almost triple that figure to buy the same truck today. It is difficult to find any Syncro below 10,000 Euro that does not have serious problems, issues or limitations (very high mileage, rust, no lockers, the 60HP NA diesel, etc.) I feel that I got a quite good buy on this one, given its condition, but I had to pay Mike more money to go and get it from that distance.

The lights are 8" Bosch halogens of some type -- I can't readily find a model number, only the numbers cast into the lens. The brush guard is mounted with a single bolt up through the bumper face at each point it meets the bumper, for a total of four bolts. The heads of the bolts feel like they are 13mm, but that is going solely on feel.

I can likely find out details when we remove it in the body shop, if desired.

BTW, thank you again for that initial link that you provided. From there, I was able to navigate to the official Bollebygd page, and then find contact information. I have emailed the Southern Älvsborg Rescue Association (SERF) which is responsible for emergency services in the villages of BOLLEBYGD, BORAS, GROUND, SVENLJUNGA, TRANEMO, and ULRICEHAMN.

Hopefully they will respond and provide further information.
_________________
1952 MG TD Replica, 69 VW IRS pan, 1679cc with 40 HPMXs -- Most fun for the money out there...

1986 Doka Transporter, 14" Syncro w/dual lockers -- 60,000km Swedish firetruck...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=682322

30+ VWs before them...

[kco2949785]

That armored cable in the engine compartment is for an engine heater and a heater in the cab. It's for 220 volt power which is what is used in Sweden instead of 110 volts here. Cab heaters a common in Sweden. I bought a cab heater for my Swedish sinka last time I was in Sweden. They're not expensive-around $30. Plug in your VW to a wall socket to warm the cab and engine before starting out in the winter. Nice Doka.

[TKentT]

I found a couple pics online of a different Syncro (this appears to be a 16") from the same SARF fire agency. This shows how the lights on mine were likely configured. Note this one has silver rocker panels also - I wonder if that is their normal paint scheme, or an indicator that both trucks have had seam repairs.

_________________
1952 MG TD Replica, 69 VW IRS pan, 1679cc with 40 HPMXs -- Most fun for the money out there...

1986 Doka Transporter, 14" Syncro w/dual lockers -- 60,000km Swedish firetruck...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=682322

30+ VWs before them...

[TKentT]

Just an update. Exterior done, except for.cleaning and minor touch up. Doesn't exactly match what it likely looked like when in service, but close....

Mechanical has begun, with replacing all fuel lines.

_________________
1952 MG TD Replica, 69 VW IRS pan, 1679cc with 40 HPMXs -- Most fun for the money out there...

1986 Doka Transporter, 14" Syncro w/dual lockers -- 60,000km Swedish firetruck...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=682322

30+ VWs before them...

[TKentT]

Busted original cardboard rear door panels replaced, using .100" HDPE plastic, painted with Fusion Espresso Satin paint. 6x9 Alpine Type S speakers added, along with baffles and sound deadening, in preparation for a stereo upgrade.

Note that I am leaving the worn vinyl seat cover on the back seat except for shows. It has protected them since new, and has preserved them well. So, my dog can safely ride back there without fear of damaging the cloth seats

_________________
1952 MG TD Replica, 69 VW IRS pan, 1679cc with 40 HPMXs -- Most fun for the money out there...

1986 Doka Transporter, 14" Syncro w/dual lockers -- 60,000km Swedish firetruck...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=682322

30+ VWs before them...

[TKentT]

Though the truck is now dusty (long gravel driveway), these pics provide a better view of the newly applied decals and placement. I chose to use silver Syncro 4x4 decals on the rear quarter panels so they would blend in more and not distract from the fire truck markings. Without these decals the only Syncro identification was the grille emblem, and the small emblem on the rear, opposite the Transporter emblem - nothing visible from the side.

I also used a more generic Brandforsvar (fire service) decals rather than the name of the village which would normally go there, because it has seen service in at least two villages, AFAIK. The Radnings Tjansten decal is the Emergency Services shield used in that region.

_________________
1952 MG TD Replica, 69 VW IRS pan, 1679cc with 40 HPMXs -- Most fun for the money out there...

1986 Doka Transporter, 14" Syncro w/dual lockers -- 60,000km Swedish firetruck...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=682322

30+ VWs before them...

[OddN]

A great little fire truck.

But whats with the F71 option code... 9,5Jx21 wheels must surely be a code from another VW-model, but I cannot find that code in any Vanagon/T3 lists.

And the armoured wire in the engine compartment is the supply for a 220V (european household electricity) block heater and/or battery charger, most likely a Defa:

The black one is the cable you have. Should go to a heater somewhere in the engine block. The green cable goes from the van to a household socket.
_________________
1991 VW Multivan syncro 1,9 TD

[TKentT]

[Team WorldTour]

[TKentT]

[Team WorldTour]

Is there a difference?
(No, really, is there?)
I know the Bundeswehr has a different set up, but that is the only set-up I have seen first hand....

It just makes sense to me. Have a good look at the frame. I might have a part number stamped on it.
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[TKentT]

[Team WorldTour]

...but is there a part number?
I think finding that would settle this once and for all....
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!