Help, stuck on the road with vapour lock I think.

[goobergoo]

Sorry I’d search better but I’m on my phone.
I was trying to get to a show and well it’s probally to hot to be driving the bug it’s 35 degrees without the humidex. Car just lost power and then chocked out.Anyways carb is getting fuel line before the pump is backuped up with fuel and the pumps push rod is sticking out. How do I get it back in?

Just pore cold water on the pump?

[ekacpuc]

[vamram]

You may be able to tap it back in while moving the crankshaft pulley back and forth a bit. I've had the same thing happen to me and was able to fix it like that to get where I was going.
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[ekacpuc]

I carry a tool set and assumed everyone did lol.

Couple screw drivers, 13mm, 10mm wrenches plus extra points/condenser and a big hammer Incase all else fails I can beat it up.

[vamram]

I carry everything I need to drop the engine and then some. But this fix doesn't require removing the pump.
_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke
“If something cannot go on forever, it will stop.”
Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...languishing since 2022.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Q-Dog]

The fuel pump has failed. Why would you think "vapor lock" when the failure is pointing right at you? Get that pin back in properly and you should be good to go.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[goobergoo]

[Q-Dog]

I wouldn't hit it. Just push it while turning the crank.

Inside the pump is an arm with a hole in it. You will need to line up the hole. The arm looks like these 2 at the top of this photo.

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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

I'm late to the party, but.....

You may be successful by rocking the crankshaft and **tapping** the pin in.

Once in, you can temporarily 'fix' the pin from coming out by wrapping a large hose clamp around the base of the fuel pump, covering the pin. This will hopefully keep it 'contained' until you can get home. Or use duct tape, electrical tape, zip ties, etc:

The point of the temporary repair is to simple 'contain' or limit the amount the pin can back out so that it remains engaged on both ends of the pump body.

More permanent fixes include a 'bracket' of sorts, 'peening' the pin in place, or a dab of JB Weld on each side of the pin.

Final fix is to get a good quality fuel pump that has the 'c-clips' or 'circlips' to prevent the pin from backing out like that again. Like these:

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[gt1953]

I prevent that from happening even on the pumps with the C clip. Just fab up this for both sides of the pump. The pin may move but not fall out.

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[goobergoo]

Okay thanks for the help guys. I figured out the pin was just pretty much just hanging in by a thread so I took it out and could see the part I needed to line up to get the pin back in.
The problem is when turning the crank the inner part of the pump I need to line up with doesn’t move. Should I try and move the inner part with a thin tool while turning the crank? I turned one full revolution without the part moving.

[busdaddy]

The pump moves once every two crank revolutions, but it's likely spring pressure will still prevent it from lining up. You may be able to fit something slightly undersized into the hole from the opposite side and pry the lever into place enough to get the real pin stared from the side opposite.
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[Q-Dog]

Maybe you can manage to put the dipstick or some other smaller metal rod into the pump to get you back on the road. Fix it properly when you get home.
_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[ekacpuc]

Or it’s two very easy to access 13mm nuts to remove the pump. Don’t even disconnect the fuel hoses... take 5 mins to remove only because you can’t get much of a turn on the nut on the forward end of the motor (use open end of wrench at angle).

[goobergoo]

[wcfvw69]

Thats a inexpensive Airtek fuel pump sold at most flap locations. The rocker pin is a press or peened fit when new. As you can see, it's not an effective design.

Be aware that the inlet/outlet tubes love to fall out of those Airtek pumps too, spraying fuel all over the engine causing fires. The other issue is those pumps love to put out 5 PSI or more due to the wrong spring tension on the main diaphragm assembly.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D113%2D127%2D025%2DGBR

I think this Brosol pump has the rocker pin with C-clips securing it from backing out. I'd go for this if I was on a budget but check the fuel pressure after mounting it.

The best bet is to purchase a restored original German Pierburg fuel pump. They have built in fuel screens, rocker pins secured with C-clips and put out 3psi with the correct OE Effbe rebuild kits installed.

Measure the diameter of that rocker pin that backed out and PM me the size. I think it's the same size as the Pierburgs. I have plenty of spare pins with C-clips if you want to keep running it. I can drop one in the mail N/C.
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[Tim Donahoe]

Bill, I bought that Brosol pump a few years back. It’s a good one. I measured between 2-1/2 and 3 psi with it, and it has a c-clip and the barbs are an integral part of the pump, so nothing can fall out.

Tim
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