The "great-life-lesson-on-limits-and-not-cheapening-out" Syncro

[4Gears4Tires]

Between work and my new hobby of bouldering the van has been getting ignored. Especially in regards to a certain engine swap. But I had a few afternoon on Saturday and wanted to knock a small project out and reduce the Project Parts Pile.

I had bought these curtains awhile ago.
https://www.combevalleycampers.co.uk/product-page/vw-t3-5-piece-curtain-set

Nicely packaged

Nicely labeled as well, but the 1985-1992 labeled rails did not fit my Syncro. Don't know why. I used whatever rails fit the space, hah.

I started with the back window, figured if I made any mistakes they'd be the farthest from the driver seat! I used a 3/32" drill bit to predrill the holes after marking them through the rail.

I definitely slid them on backwards a few times. Little bit frustrating since sliding the keys into the rails is a bit fiddly on the fingers, but it's not too bad honestly. I slid them into the middle until I put the end caps on so they wouldn't pop off.

You can see here the 1980-1984 rail fits here even though my van is an 1987. Dunno what that's about, but glad the kit had all the parts I needed.

Rails without curtains

Rails with curtains. You can see the radius of the rails don't match the van exactly, but I guess it's close enough.

Pretty good fit here.

Curtains installed and closed

Considering a very strong late afternoon sun was streaming on the back of the van, they are fairly dark! And the windshield/front was open to light.

Easily slide back

And wrapped back

Overall I am very happy with these curtains. Very big improvement over my old curtain set up.
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[4Gears4Tires]

It's been awhile since I've updated. The van ran really well last year and I spent the majority of the time using it, although I did not use it as much as I had wanted. Too many things to do.

The curtains work great and I took the van camping several times. A great way to spend a day is slowly meander along Skyline Drive in Shenandoah NP, spending a few hours at scenic overlooks before moving to the next one.

And of course, what goes well with enjoying the view while napping and reading? Coffee!

Camping in Big Bend, WV is awesome. It's on this little horseshoe and campers will bring inflatables and float around the camp site and then walk back across the isthmus for another go!

I set up the ARB Add a Room. It makes getting in and out of the van a bit cumbersome, but it makes an excellent changing room and really adds needed space. Since it takes time to set up, I'd only put it up if I'm staying at least 2 nights.

The camp host has a Westy! Of course he asked me if I had the van alert app and knew about the Samba. If you see this post, hi!

So on to mechanicals!
I had made a pretty egregious error (lesson number #toohightocount) that can be seen on page 2 of this thread. The flywheel bolts were stuck on the motor years ago and instead of being diligent and using a bolt extractor, I just ignored that. This meant I didn't replace the rear main seal and the pilot bearing. I'm actually surprised at how long the pilot bearing lasted, I really should have, at least, smeared some fresh grease in there. Especially after the transmission was rebuilt and came back squeaky clean. So the pilot bearing exploded and ground on my input shaft.

So the motor has to come out. It's taken years, but it does run very nicely now. Looks good too. Oh well.

Unfortunately the passenger side output shaft seal is leaking! On my fresh rebuild too. I suppose it needs that flange shim, the specific name is escaping my mind right now.

The selector shaft seal is unfortunately also leaking. I'm sure I overfilled the trans. I don't understand how the transmission can be filled at the right level if you use a trans cooler/pump. When I turn on the pump, it will suck the fluid level down, so more fluid needs to be added. But then if the pump is turned off, oil will drain back to the trans and the level goes above the fill hole.

Engine out, replacement is waiting....

Now we can take a look at what went wrong. Ouch! Fortunately it wasn't too bad and with 2000 grit, lube, and some time, the input shaft was polished back to smooth. Fingers crossed it's ok.

Getting ready to mate the EJ25 with the Vanagon trans

I have to say, dropping the van down right down on to the engine carrier bar with it lining up like this is just a thing of beauty.... It brings a tear to my eye.

And it's in!

It's actually missing quite a lot. Only 2 of the 5 bolts per side of the engine carrier bar are in, exhaust and intake gaskets need to be installed, etc, but I couldn't wait to get it in there and free up garage floor space.

Van Cafe still has my harness, I can't wait to get it back. The quality of their install kit is excellent and I'm sure the harness will be the same as well. In the mean time, I'll handle the coolant pipes, drive shafts, power steering, etc.
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[dobryan]

_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[jimf909]

Neato!
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- Jim

[Sodo]

[4Gears4Tires]

Link


To Do List:
Coolant
Axles
Speed sensor
Temp sensor
Shift linkage
Clean up wiring
Power steering fluid
Some sort of filter/intake combo

Done List:
Make engine run
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[djkeev]

Great!
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[dobryan]

It's alive!!!
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[4Gears4Tires]

I've been really busting my ass on this swap the last few weeks/days so I didn't take many pictures. Too many projects at the same time.

Van Cafe recommends the square mounts, but the round mounts mount up just fine. I called them and they said no one has ever asked them about round mounts. Not much on the internet about it either, I think I saw one post saying they are a bit harsher than the square mounts. But they came with the motor and they look fine, so they'll be used for now.

I gotta say, walking into the garage to work on the van and being greeted by this view is something that has been a dream of mine for... at least 3 decades.

I guess I didn't order the coolant bracket or understand how to use one bracket from the kit, since I do have a left over bracket and I'm not sure where it goes. The kit is amazing, the directions... well, I guess they do about as good as they can. One thing I've learned is there is an absolutely bewildering amount of variation in the intake manifolds of EJ25s. It seems like every year did something slightly different. Also, I hate how Subaru lays out the harness across the engine, squished between the intake and coolant manifold. Just throwing that out there.

Anyway, so I made my own coolant reservoir bracket out of some flat bar aluminum.

Mounted it through the stock airbox holes with some large washers underneath

Sits pretty securely

In progress pic. Trying to understand the wiring... where the intake goes... where the throttle goes. And yeah, realized the motor did not come with the throttle bracket. I guess I will need to hack one up. And I really regret not getting that power steering low pressure line just like... 6" longer.

Not quite sure what plug this. Doesn't seem to affect the motor though. I am assuming it's some sort of PCV valve? (edit: it's the coolant temp connector. I extended the wiring and plugged it in.)

The only thing I found wrong in the entire kit was this mislabeled wire. The red wire should read Power to VSS. But I figured that out and emailed them to confirm.

I also didn't order an intake kit because I wanted to hack one together from the garbage in my basement. Also, once I realized I could use a BMW e30 intake boot I knew I had to do that. It caused me considerable consternation, but the saving grace was actually the syncro air/dirt pre filter mixer. Of course, this is now post filter, so I'll need to replace this section. But it's good enough for now.

I bought this vacuum coolant fill kit during my struggles with the waterboxer. It is so nice. I had saved all my coolant since it was fairly new into a 5 gallon bucket and the system easily transfers it into the van. You will notice a red oil quart, I have the purge valve tube set into it. I don't want frothy coolant blasted across my engine bay.

Another nice thing about the kit is you can use it to to check if your coolant system holds pressure. Just shut off feed (right valve) and vacuum (left valve) and watch the gauge. I found out that I had missed a hose clamp on one of the heater lines when it failed to hold vacuum. Much better to find that now!

Vacuum (left) shut and feed (right) opened and the coolant gets sucked right into the van.

The coolant is just disappearing. It's odd the things that end up being really satisfying like this. I've struggled so much with bleeding coolant and this is just... so nice. Link to tool https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24444-Cooling-System-Refiller/dp/B01BW39HJS

I guess this is the downside of buying a motor from a auto tech professor. The students forgot to put the bolts for the rocker arm (I assume?) back in. I thought the valve cover was leaking and then I find these missing bolts. The cam shaft sensor is blocking me from adding a small allen bolt to the top, but I think it'll be ok. I added bolts to either side of the rocker arm, which was no easy feat because they are quite long and not a thread pitch/length that BMW or VW uses. I ran over to my neighbors garage, he loves Hondas and had 2 appropriate bolts.

No pictures of bolting up the axles or speed sensor, but hopefully you can picture that.

And?

Link



_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[Sodo]

[4Gears4Tires]

I did clean up the wiring, but thanks for the pointer on the 3 pin molex.

I took it around the block, I like this swap. Yes sir, this is a most excellent upgrade.

edit: My 3000th post!
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[Sodo]

OK so you're up& running. Excellent!
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'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[4Gears4Tires]

I reused the 7 pin connector. I cut it off from the harness and wired the subaru wires to it. So everything is still easily able to be disconnected. It hurt my heart a little bit to ruin a whole engine harness for just a few wires, but ehhh I'll throw it for free with my old wbx engine.

I do like the idea of using waterproof connectors, because that junction box isn't the most waterproof. I plan on doing a full wiring clean up at some point, because the taillight and trailer wiring is a bit of a rats nest as well.
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[4Gears4Tires]

So before I put the EJ25 swap on the road I cleaned up the driver rear rotor because it was quite heavily warped. It is the GoWesty disc brake conversion.

Yay now it's all good. Wrong. Dunno what's up with it but it's definitely dragging. Front disc brake temps after driving 173F, passenger rear 112F, driver rear 172F. So it's definitely just going to warp again. I am going to check the hand brake cable tension, but I am 99% sure it has slack. Not sure what else it could be besides a sticky piston.

I think this is why I got 13mpg with the wbx just before swapping it out, instead of the 15 I had been getting for most of the van's ownership.

And my coolant level light blinks after I've been driving for 30 minutes and then come to stop for several minutes. I've checked repeatedly after it's cooled down and the reservoir is full when I open it. I must have some air bubbles that only come out when hot, or something. Dunno.
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[4Gears4Tires]

I bled all my brakes and there was an actual tan colored ball/plug/thing that came out of my brake line in the driver rear! Haven't really driven it yet, but it seems to roll easier just up and down the street. Hopefully that was whatever was causing the caliper to drag.

Also, I weighed my van! I had about 60lbs of metal and 170lbs me, so I think the van with half a tank of gas is about 4300lbs!

I want to do a little road trip today so I changed the oil, doesn't look great for only a few hundred miles. But hey, this motor was $700. Who knows how many miles and what kind of life these bearings had. It's definitely a little rattly on start up.

_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[4Gears4Tires]

With the oil changed and the axle bolts checked once more, the open road was calling! The forecast called for rain all day and while it was drizzling and foggy, it wasn't raining too badly. Shenandoah seemed to have taken on an ancient and chilling atmosphere and there were very few people braving the rainy forecast. We ate lunch at Skyland and then found a very foggy overlook to hang out and read for a few hours.

The man himself! My girlfriend snapped a pic of me without me noticing.

Very dramatic clouds rolling down the mountains just before we exited the park.

It ran great. The Subaru EJ253 is amazing. The dead spot in the gearing between 2nd and 3rd is completely gone. This is the power the van should have had. 280 miles and we averaged 18.24mpg! The rear drivers brake is still dragging a bit, I measured 110F for both front brakes, 108F for the drivers rear and 88F for the passengers rear. So I have that to keep noodling on.
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[4Gears4Tires]

I needed to replace the driver rear wheel bearing and I had seen some threads on how to do it. Although I always wondered why people didn't just remove the cv axle and stub axle in one go. It should just slide right out! No, no it won't. It hangs up on the trailing arm. VW could have designed it so this was possible, but they didn't.

I really like to hammer in my hex key and then use an impact to remove them. I want them well seated and then removed straight back out. I find that using a hand socket wrench introduces a lot of flex and strips the hex head.

In my line of thinking of skipping steps, I also thought I could get away with replacing the bearing in situ. This also does not work. Next time I will unbolt the cv axle and take the whole hub assembly with stub axle to the work bench to disassemble easily.

Grease looked pretty good tbh.

The inner seal was being an absolute pain and it broke my cheap bearing puller. When it broke I hit my head on the transmission. Time to go inside.

Next morning I put a nice brand new German hose clamp to keep the broken head in place. Nope. That snapped too.

Angry, I did some pretty shitty welds on this shitty tool because I was angry I cheaped out and didn't buy a quality tool. It didn't break this time.

And because I was still doing this on the van, trying to get this circlip out was nearly impossible. Using long angled pliers finally let me get behind the circlip and work around it to pop it out. As I said, next time I will do this on the bench.

Laying this out on the work bench, still covered with detritus from the subaru swap.

Finally realized the error of my ways and removed the hub assembly.

No pictures of the reassembly, but I used my press and the old bearings to reassemble the hub.

The next snag I hit was getting the cotter pin through. I used a torque bar set to 250ftlbs and then a 2' breaker bar and at 175lbs with shoes and clothes that should be 350lbs. (Spec is 360ftlbs)

No where close! The amount of movement from the nut from 250 to 350ftlbs was just a few degrees, I was looking at this and thinking it's going to go to 500ftlbs or more to get this clearance. Dobryan let me know you just crank down on that nut until one of the two holes clear. So I got a larger cheater bar and that worked.

Wiggle gone!
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[4Gears4Tires]

My driver rear brake was dragging and I couldn't figure out how to fix this. Dobryan suggested working the caliper in and out so I grabbed the large C clamp to do so. Guess what, the GW big brake conversion uses rear Eurovan that needs to be screwed and pressed in. So next the day I rented the tool from Advance Auto.

I used 2" box tubing to press against

And then I cleaned up the rotor on the lathe just in case any of the dragging was related to the rotor.

After over 1000 mile road trip, I think this is sorted. But I will keep an eye on it. Thank you to Dobryan for the suggestion.
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[4Gears4Tires]

My radiator baffles were surprisingly not in the worst shape possible. However, I had ordered the GW baffles some years ago and decided to finally install them.

My bottom baffle was completely missing though and I think it made the biggest difference.

One downside of the new baffles was that the tops of the old ones were gone and now I can't see my Vanistan bleed loop tube. It was an easy to check if coolant was topped all the way up. Maybe I'll cut the baffle down a bit.

<insert 1100+ mile road trip>

My unknown Subaru swap motor burns a hefty amount of oil, about a quart every 400-500 miles. It also leaks oil from the rear main seal (new Felpro that I installed) and the driver side front cam seal. And maybe a few other spots.

I was tired of the rear sag, especially since I sleep with the head to the tailgate. I use the OEM jack to level the van, but it would be nice to not constantly wind and unwind that jack. I really want Fox shocks, but I after doing the swap I am not keen on dropping $2500 right now. So I figured I might as well add Hijackers. While browsing eBay for Gabriel Hijacker 49215 I saw that they were also listed for the same era Chevy Astro van, and there is an even cheaper AC Delco branded version. $85 instead of $125! I can't imagine there are two factories making the same looking shock, so I took a chance and they are the same.

However, the Syncro fuel filler tube does get in the way. At this point I was worried I should have spent the money to buy the Vanagon Gabriel branded versions. However after checking a bunch of pictures, the fit on the driver side had the exact spacing as the pictures I was finding online. Out comes the hammer. It hurt me to bash on my shiny fuel filler tube, but it is surprisingly strong and it took a LOT of bashing to create the right clearance.

I put a super sketchy 4x6 under the tire and lowered the van down to put the lower bolt in.

Aired up the shocks until it was level! Finally!

I'm very pleased!
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[tjet]

Nice. If the rear shocks get into a bind, they have shock extenders. I got a couple from CVC.