Syncro Front End Rebuild

[T3TRIS]

I've done some browsing around checking what people did with their syncro front end rebuilds and there certainly is some good information out there (including a super detailed step by step done by MsTaboo, which includes some of the rear too).

I'm about to tackle this job on our van as we're starting to hear some sounds from an outer CV joint and, (not) knowing the history of this van, I'm pretty sure none of that maintenance has been done. I'm making this post in an effort to have a clear list of parts and items that would be needed for the job. Our goal is to refresh the bushings, replace our front struts and springs (adding a 2" lift), replace the wheel bearings, replace the studs for longer ones and replace any hardware that looks like it has seen better days. Eventually we'll install a bigger brake kit as well.

So far, we've already done this:
- Syncro radius rod bushing set
- Steering rack bushing set
- T3 anti-roll bar
- T3 HD end link set
- 3x Syncro front differential mounts and plastic washers
- Driver side has had both upper and lower ball joints replaced (not by me, but not long ago)
- Front rotors
- Brake pads
- Stainless brake lines
- Steering rack boots

Parts we already have:
- 10x 55mm wheel studs
- Syncro front shock bump stop set
- Upper shock bushing set
- Syncro lifted Schwenk front spring set
- 2x 944 CV joints (inner front)
- 2x Rockford 100mm CV boots

Parts we need to purchase:
- Burley Syncro adjustable upper control arm set
- 2x Front outer CV joints
- 2x Rockford front outer CV boots
- 2x Syncro front wheel bearings
- 4x Syncro front wheel bearing seals
- 2x Front axle washers
- 2x Outer tie rod ends
- Front lower control arm bushing set
- 14oz Bushing snot
- Lemförder upper ball joint
- Lemförder lower ball joint lower (out of stock right now, still looking for a good source)
- Front lower ball joint washer
- 2x Early Syncro lower front shock bolt kits
- 2x Lower control arm bolt kits
- Front lower control arm bushing set
- 2x Old Man Emu front Syncro struts

Parts I think (or hope) are still OK:
- Ball joints adapter bolts
- Upper control arm bolt
- Eccentric washers[/list]

Wishlist but I don't think we'll do it unless parts look very bad:
- Powder coat everything!

That's all I can think of right now, anything I'm missing here?
_________________
Guillaume, Jennifer & T3TRIS
87 2-knob Syncro
- 94 Subaru EJ22, 225/70-R16 CLK 16x7 ET37
- Transaxle rebuild, Mexico paint job, Front end rebuild, 320Ah LiFePO4 Battery

[pjn_wyo]

Skip the upper burley arms and do the big brake kit while it is apart.

The go westy ball joint adaptors will fix whatever alignment issues you think you are going to have with a 2" lift.

They burley arms are nice but better stopping power is a better way to spend the money.

Also - what springs are you going to use? I don't see those listed. - edit now I see, schwenk...

[T3TRIS]

[Bman]

i have my 86 Syncro parked and awaiting this project as well, so....following.

Any thought to the Syncro front end carriage bushing set? By carriage I mean the frame that holds the front diff in place, I read a FB post that the stock or rubber replacement is better than the stiffer poly bushings.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl

[T3TRIS]

[pjn_wyo]

[T3TRIS]

[4Gears4Tires]

[alaskadan]

Is there any bulge on the side of the frame above where the cradle mounts? If so it is rusting through from the inside, and is full of road grit.While the front cradle is off is the time to tackle it.

[pbrown]

Here's some inspiration. I removed, cleaned, and either replaced or powder coated everything.

_________________
Patrick Brown

1986 Westy Syncro EJ25
Flickr --> https://flic.kr/s/aHsmQNUXEF

[pbrown]

Quick note on the Burley UCA. They are very nice but, I had minor alignment issues. I go to a high end alignment shop in Seattle. They do a lot of German performance cars. They could not get the camber exactly right. It was within spec but the arms would need to be a bit shorter to get it right. I decided to leave it as is.
_________________
Patrick Brown

1986 Westy Syncro EJ25
Flickr --> https://flic.kr/s/aHsmQNUXEF

[T3TRIS]

[T3TRIS]

[Sodo]

[T3TRIS]

[4Gears4Tires]

As long as that body reshaping is done while there isn't anything explosive (i.e. a battery) on the other side, what's the down side? Might be good to rotate the arm up, mark the spots, then smash them in with a hammer. Preemptively.

As for the redone pics, excuse me I'll be in my bunk...
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[valvecovergasket]

[T3TRIS]

[T3TRIS]

So it begins! So far I’ve taken most of the parts off the van. I still have the UCA’s mounted and the driver side LCA bolt is not budging. The passenger side was quite rusted and I had to use a ball joint tool to pop it off. I put the driver side under pressure (using a big C-clamp) last night and soaked it with penetrating oil. I haven’t checked this morning but I hope to find the c-clamp on the floor with the bolt popped! Otherwise I’ll have to get more creative.
As other have reported, doing the first side took for ever! The other side took half the time or less (minus the seized bolt of course).

I’m waiting for the orders to come in but I’m feeling decent about completing this relatively quickly. The most challenging decisions will be about how to treat the parts when removed/exposed, which treatment/prevention and finally if I can press stuff myself.

I got lucky a couple times on this one. First thing I did was raise the front of the van and get the wheels off. Then I started taking everything I could off, starting with the passenger side. When it came time to use a jaw puller to push the axle in, I curse myself for not having loosen the 350Nm nut!! I jammed a breaker bar between the studs and slowly started loosening the nut with a MASSIVE ratcheting 3/4 telescopic breaker bar. The nut just spun... turns out the nut was loose the whole time and was probably the source of the sound we heard, which means our front CV’s might still be OK. The bearing feels a little loose on the passenger side though. I popped the wheel back on the driver side with a couple lug nuts, pushed a ramp under the wheel and broke that side’s nut loose before getting started!
The first side took a while to find the right angles and thread the front CV axle out. I found that disconnecting the inner CV and pushing it toward the back of the van with the upright hanging off the UCA and opened as if you were turning (full right on passenger side or full left on driver side) was the best way to get it out.
Still lots to do but on a fun note, we had a torn outer CV boot on the driver side. I taped a ziplock bag around it 2,000 miles ago and drove as if nothing had changed, including doing some heavy off-roading. The ziplock bag has ZERO tears in it, none!!! Who needs Rockford boots when you have a ziplock and duct tape, huh?!

Link

_________________
Guillaume, Jennifer & T3TRIS
87 2-knob Syncro
- 94 Subaru EJ22, 225/70-R16 CLK 16x7 ET37
- Transaxle rebuild, Mexico paint job, Front end rebuild, 320Ah LiFePO4 Battery

[Sodo]

Front CV axle nut loose is bad.
That destroys the bearing and the hub.
Bearing is replaceable, Syncro hubs are NLA.
Hard to find replacements, and expensive.

I had that same trouble.
Syncro front hub repair - anyone try knurling?

Every Syncro owner should check that nut to be sure its tight.
258 lbs on a one-foot bar = 258 ft-lbs
129 lbs on a 2 foot bar = 258 ft-lbs
190 lbs on a 18” bar = 258 ft-lbs
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two vans:'90 Westy with '07 EJ25 '12 longblock, Peloquin TDB+lockers F+R, pressure oiled transaxle mainshaft &pinion bearing, with cooler & filtration. 150Ah LiFePO
'87 Tintop with 47k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, Peloquin front
....KTMs, GasGas, and a Stumpjumper