dropping engine with automatic transmission?

[gregburb]

I am getting closer to dropping engine with automatic trans still attached to engine. Do I need to do anything with transmission cooler before I drop everything? Can I leave coolant hoses attached? They seem hard to get to? It is a 87 2wd.

[djkeev]

What do you want to drop?
Engine or trans?
Why are you dropping the unit?
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Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[gregburb]

I am dropping the engine to replace heads. I am doing it as a unit because I have read it is easier in the long run.

[djkeev]

[kourt]

Here we go. Let me know if you need a list of what to do to get the transaxle out. If it were me, I would be removing them separately.

I have to pull my transaxle next week to do a rear main seal, so it's on my mind.

kourt

[markswagen]

you can re do the heads WITHOUT taking the engine out of the van.
that's how l do most.
often, l don't bother to lift the wheels off the ground to do the job.
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markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.

619 201 0310

[kourt]

Oh snap, he's right. This is one of the convenient maintenance items for the boxer engine. That's what I get for drinking beer before posting!

Here's the transaxle removal procedure list anyway.

put the van on ramps
fabricate a winch from 2x4 and a boat winch
disconnect CV joints at the transaxle and hang the axles up out of the way with zip ties
remove three torque converter bolts through the port (rotate the engine to access each bolt)
attach the winch to the opening in the top of the bellhousing with webbing
detach the throttle cable from the kickdown assembly
detach the shifter cable from the transmission via the e-clip
detach controls from other bolts on forward end of transaxle, hang out of the way
unbolt the four forward transmission mount bolts
unbolt the ground cable at the forward mount
unbolt the ATF dipstick tube
disconnect the starting battery
disconnect the wiring loom from the starter
unbolt and remove starter (first of four engine+transaxle bolts now removed)
make winch taut and make ready for tension
remove driver side upper engine+transaxle bolt
remove remaining two lower engine+transaxle bolts
stop, make sure nothing is caught on top or sides of transaxle
remove ATF cooler
lower transaxle carefully onto cardboard or plywood



kourt

[gregburb]

I also want to replace the O-rings at bottom of sleeve. It just seemed easier with engine out. But now I am second guessing taking tranny with engine. If it makes a difference, I have an engine hoist and engine stand to do the job.
If you want to look at how I got in this predicament, this is how https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=762659

[djkeev]

My 2 cents from working on VW engines since the 1960’s……..
I wouldn't fight doing cylinders in the Van!

It is SO much nicer on a bench where you can easily access things and do it correctly.

It is so easy to drop it engine using the home made hoist.

My hoist …….

It worked GREAT!
But if I were to do this a lot, I'd make a steel crank mount plate.

Honestly with this hoist, this was the easiest VW engine install I've ever done!
And I've done a LOT of them since the late 60’s.

From 1954 models to this 1990 WBX.

Engine going in.

Dave
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[bobhill8]

Hey Greg, You are trapped in Samba purgatory. In your other thread, you asked if the heads could be done with the engine IN. Several people said "Take the engine out". You start taking it out, and some say "can be done with engine still in". Some say take the engine and trans out together, others say separate them. None of these are wrong - people have done it all on here. Stick with the plan that makes sense to you and it will work.
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1986 Westy
1971 Squareback

[dabaron]

i've stopped using the wench above the engine method in favor of a floor jack. it allows great control when connecting/disconnecting the engine to the tranny.

the transmission MUST be supported when the engine is removed. i lower the engine still connected to the transmission (it pivots on the front tranny mount) and rest it on blocks about 1 foot from the ground.

the engine will easily pull back once disconnected while supported by the floor jack. once the lower studs are clear of the bell housing, the engine can be lowered fully on the floor jack and pulled out from under the Vanagon.

DO NOT remove the torque convertor from the transmission... i use zip ties to hold it in place once the engine is out. this will keep fluid from leaking, prevents damaging the spline shaft, and keeps the threaded hole in the proper location for attaching the flex plate when you reconnect the engine.

the ideal height from ground to the sheet metal below the bumper is 24" - this allows the alternator to remain attached.

i've done this too many times. also, use a shop vac to remove the coolant, takes about 10 minutes, crack the radiator bleeder just a little.

i really should have documented the entire process i use. i have a feeling i'll be able to do just that next summer
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1991 Vanagon GL Camper
i had no idea i wanted to be a mechanic

[djkeev]

Jacks work but they are tippy and in my humble opinion dangerous.

Things slip and fall.

The winch prevents the fall. I still use a Jack but as an added boost in certain areas, not carry the complete load.

Oh! the number of boxer engines I've dropped on a single Jack………
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[dabaron]

[mikemtnbike]

Well, I could not be happier with using an engine hoist and an engine stand. Why use makeshift options when I have the money and storage for tools designed for the work that make it easier and safer?

Like bobhill said, everybody has their own opinions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kAIMlISHhU
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[gregburb]

It took me a second to understand why the song was in there. I like it.

[mikemtnbike]

I like to share my free associations when they happen. So, I typed that, and immediately the song started playing in my head, so there it is.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[djkeev]

[dabaron]

[VicVan]

I only did this once a couple of weeks ago, so here are my two cents. If it's your first time doing it, I would recommend dropping engine and transmission as a unit. This way, you can see how it all works, what is connected to what. You'll gain precious knowledge for the next time(s).

Once it's on the ground, separating the engine from the transmission is easy, you can do it to change your torque converter seal at least. You'll see how the engine and transaxle work together, making it easier to do it on the van next time.

Same logic applies for the heads (which I have not done myself): it definitely looks doable with the engine in, but if you do it the first time with the engine out, you'll gain a better understanding of the whole thing. Next time you'll do it with the engine in place, and the third time the eyes closed.
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[4Gears4Tires]

I've pulled the engine and trans together at least 8 times in the last few years, maybe more. I've pulled the trans out with the engine remaining once and I just put the trans back in.

If the coolant system is, for whatever reason, under maintenance I will drop both the motor and the trans together every time going forward. It takes the same amount of time and it's less stressful. Just lower the whole thing down, easy.

If the coolant system does not need to be touched, I will begrudgingly remove just the transmission. And only with a trans jack. Maybe the automatic is easier to manhandle, but the Syncro trans is a beast to wrestle backwards and down. Putting it back with a trans jack was better, but it wouldn't change my overall preference of dropping the trans with the motor.
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'87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition