Antifreeze/coolant

[deadaheadub]

I apologize for this, but I am really confused after reading the many threads on this subject.
Does it matter which phosphate-free coolant you use?
G05? G11? G12 or G13? How about G48? Unspecified yellow container that says it's good for every vehicle?
I called the local VW dealer who couldn't help me at all. I called one further away and she said G13 was what was satisfactory even for classic vehicles since they don't have G11 or G12 any longer.
And the local FLAPS have limited hit and miss selections.

Also, to test the system to find the leak, is it ok to use plain water so I don't waste a bunch of new coolant, probably on the ground? Can I just use tap water for the short duration of the test (I know to use distilled for reals)? Does it matter if that tap water is pretty hard with minerals?
Thank you!
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Ryan
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Past loves: '65 Bug, '70 Westy poptop, '64 Squareback project, '76 Westy tintop "Loose Lucy", '76 Westy tintop "Sharee"
Current:'84 Westy poptop "Ramblin' Rose- Rosie" w/ 2003 Subaru EJ25 conversion

[mitch5]

i personally use whatever is cheapest, mix 60 distilled to 40 concentrate(depends on climate) and just flush the system every few years.

For finding leaks i use a vacuum system to fill and bleed, best money ever spent.

[4Gears4Tires]

Distilled water is so cheap. $1/gallon. Just buy 6 gallons and fill the system with that. Tap water has minerals that you preferably don't want in your system.

I use BMW blue coolant because blue is the coolest color for coolant. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-coolant-antifreeze-82141467704
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[Wildthings]

Most of the extended life coolants will be fine. A 50/50 mix works very well for keeping the system problem free, even if you don't need it for freeze protection.

[kamzcab86]

So long as it's phosphate-free, which the majority of antifreeze/coolant is today, you can use pretty much whichever version you want.

G11 (which Vanagons left the factory with) is, in fact, still available: 1) Pentosin, sold under the name Pentofrost NF (available locally at NAPA). However, it's sold in 1.5L bottles, which range in price from $13 to $20. In other words, it'll cost a small fortune to fill a Vanagon. 2) As already said, BMW G11 is also still available, which costs about $20-25 per gallon of concentrate. 3) Rowe Hightec AN G11, which costs $23-$40 per gallon of concentrate. Regarding factory coolants, what you don't want to do is mix G11 with G12 or G12+, or mix G12 with G12+. G12++ and G13 are backwards compatible with all others.

I, personally, use Prestone in my van because of price and national availability at most FLAPS and Walmarts (bonus: you can easily find leaks with a UV light). My Cabriolet, on the other hand, which doesn't hold nearly the van's capacity and doesn't go on lengthy road trips, is treated to G11.
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1986 Cabriolet: www.Cabby-Info.com
1990 Vanagon Westfalia: Old Blue's Blog
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"Real knowledge is to know the extent of one's ignorance." - 孔子

[djkeev]

Whatever coolant you choose, get the premixed or use distilled water when mixing it.
Distilled water is found in any super market USA.

DO NOT USE TAP WATER from your house!

Dave
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Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[deadaheadub]

[atarasi]

I found this Zerex coolant made by Valvoline. Napa auto had it on sale for $18 for the concentrate.

[jlrftype7]

[Wildthings]

A 50/50 mix of an extended life antifreeze coupled with adding some coolant conditioner annual after the first several years will give you a coolant with a very long life span. Antifreeze doesn't tend to age except for the additives slowly being consumed, so replenishing the additives will give your coolant a very long life.

[Phishman068]

ANY juice will get you off the side of the road, and if you haven't flushed your system in a while- draining it, filling it with tap water (any water) and then swapping it for coolant after running it a while is a good move.

I've filled vanagon cooling systems during breakdowns and roadside repairs with:
Pond water
Beer
Poweraid
Iced Tea

They all got flushed with tap water when I got home, and all refilled with proper, GREEN coolant once the leaks were solved.

The only thing you can do to REALLY ruin things is to put a bottle of "coolant flush" in and forget about it.... that's some wicked acid and it works great so long as you flush the system after using it a bit as per the directions. Otherwise.... it eats your engine.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936

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[hardway]

The Zerex G40 is the same as the latest G13 in VAG speak. Unfortunately VW uses different nomenclature for coolant than the rest of the world. There are so many formulations and theories about coolant. Honda is Borate free. I don't try to understand it all. It seems that almost every theory that human beings have ever come up with is eventually dis-proven.

I would stay away from high silicate coolants because they were designed to drop out of solution to offset erosion due to cavitation. After seeing silicate drop out deposits I still believe in that theory. The G40/G13 is what I use in my VAG vehicles. There must be a reason that the Euro manufacturers are all moving in that direction.

But, whatever you do never mix different coolants. You are just asking for it if you do. Chemistry is real.