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purple rag Samba Member

Joined: March 29, 2006 Posts: 111 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2022 8:31 pm Post subject: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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I was just wondering... Before all the torsion adjusters & new beams came out. How did you lower your VW? I saw a few people use short shocks. But I remember back in the day people would pull the leaves out, cut them, and then put them back in. I don't exactly understand the concept of it all. But it definitely lowered it & was very drivable. I even saw a few guys pull leaves out and simply do away with them. Again, it definitely lowered it. But one would think it had to be somewhat of a sloppy ride correct? So what was the "correct way" to lower the front back then? |
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KEGZ Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2021 Posts: 288 Location: Whales Vagina
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2022 8:33 pm Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Dropped spindles |
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YDBD Samba Member

Joined: February 25, 2017 Posts: 924 Location: Bavaria, Germany
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2022 8:46 pm Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Select-a-drop was a popular choice, but didn't go that direction.
Sway-away beam adjusters were the better alternative, but those cost money that we didn't have. WAIT! I REMEMBER NOW! I did get some for my birthday!
My dad and I pulled the front beam out of my '67, used a pipe cutter and cut out sections of both beams and welded the adjusters in...the wrong way! Meaning it would raise the front end, contemplated the baja build instead for a few minutes, but really wanted the Cal Look...I mean Santa Cruz...come on!
We ended up drilling another hole, threading it and putting the center grub screw back in, dropping the front end about 5 1/2". The rear end was already drooping so the bug looked pretty good:
The front sway bar sat at about 1-2" off the ground, I remember driving and hitting a sewer cap on a crowned road and knocking the right lower arm out about an inch...it was low. _________________ '56 pan Dune Buggy since '69
don't live in the past...but when I did:
'67 bug
'64 baja
'60 dune buggy
'73 Personenkraftwagen Type 182 "Thing"
Last edited by YDBD on Fri Apr 15, 2022 12:18 am; edited 1 time in total |
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AlteWagen Troll

Joined: February 23, 2007 Posts: 8692 Location: PNW
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mikedjames Samba Member

Joined: July 02, 2012 Posts: 3265 Location: Hamble, Hampshire, UK
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 12:25 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Mine seems to have had the leaf spring grub screws removed, the collar allowed to rotate and then welded back in to position through the grub screw hole. Done about 5 out of the 19 previous owners ago, about 2001.
Quite soon it will have rotted so much on the horns, I will be buying a narrowed beam to replace it. _________________ Ancient vehicles and vessels
1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.
1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy |
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vwinnovator Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2005 Posts: 1555 Location: Still doing it in the back of your VW
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 5:42 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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My first lowering was with a sway bar/ "T" bracket kit they used to sell...
The "T" bolted to the bottom of the frame head and had a bolt that attached to a specially bent sway bar.
When you tightened the bolt , the sway bar would pull down and move the control arms, thus lowering the front end.
It made the car run a lot stiffer up front as well.
for the rear..always adjusted the torsion preload angle since day one...
But now, I'm doing torsion housing raises.. |
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Onceler Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2010 Posts: 1646 Location: Indiana
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 6:15 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Cut, re-clocked, and welded the center of the tubes. I usually had to do it twice. _________________ 1972 Karmann Ghia |
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Dusty1 Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2004 Posts: 2029
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 7:13 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Pre- "68 VWs lower themselves.
Seriously. Fifty- plus year old torsion bars sack out. It's amazing how long they hang in there. Gravity eventually wins.
Do you have any idea how many sets of rear leaf springs you would have gone through by now with a '66 Nova? I'm guessing at least three sets even if the car is parked most of the time.
I usually run ball joint / swingaxle suspension ('66-'67) although there is a link / IRS setup in my future. My experience has been that replacement ball joint beams that replace my old beams due to rust are nosebleed high.
May so- called "restorers" never re- set the rear torsions. I don't care how many NOS parts you used, you didn't do a thorough job if you don't at least level the car.
purple rag wrote: |
I was just wondering... Before all the torsion adjusters & new beams came out. How did you lower your VW? I saw a few people use short shocks. |
Shocks won't do it by themselves. Short shocks are intended to provide an acceptable ride with lowered suspension. Stock length shocks may bottom hard when used in a lowered car.
When you screw with the suspension you're disturbing a system that incorporates a lot of thought and engineering. The majority of suspension modifications be they VW, Honda or Subaru for example are for appearance without consideration of compromised handling.
Lowered Bugs are more likely to end up on their roofs than Bug within the stock range of suspension travel. You don't need to take my word for it. Just drop the back one notch and stick lowered spindles on the front. Then banzai a decreasing radius off- ramp. It might not even be intentional. You may simply be out on the Beltway tryin' to stay out of harm's way.
If you still need everything lower than everything else Mendeola manufactures some trick suspension products. Expect to spend around $3500 on the front end and $2500 out back.
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vwtrey Samba Member

Joined: May 18, 2004 Posts: 589 Location: NM
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 7:32 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Dusty1 wrote: |
Lowered Bugs are more likely to end up on their roofs than Bug within the stock range of suspension travel. |
I'm going to need some data to back that up, if you don't mind? |
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Olli from NJ Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2007 Posts: 362 Location: Milton,DE
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 7:55 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Back in the day?
Front; pulled leaves, cut and weld, even tried the bolt-on version of the select-a-drop (yikes).
There were no dropped spindles "back in the day". For me that is mid '70s-mid '80s
Rear; reset the torsion bars. |
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MURZI Samba Member

Joined: August 25, 2005 Posts: 5066 Location: Madisonville, La
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 8:47 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Vega Shocks on a BJ beam. Five minute job.  _________________ 62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam |
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Dusty1 Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2004 Posts: 2029
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 11:18 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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vwtrey wrote: |
Dusty1 wrote: |
Lowered Bugs are more likely to end up on their roofs than Bug within the stock range of suspension travel. |
I'm going to need some data to back that up, if you don't mind? |
Swingaxles do a "jack and tuck" thing.
VW knew their swingaxles ddi a "jack and tuck" thing. That's why '67 and '68 got Z- bars.
The mounts are there for the Z- bar through '73 for countries who still got swingaxles after we got IRS.
The mechanics of jack 'n' tuck:
Centrifugal force loads the outside wheels in a curve. There is more weight on the rear and more load on the outside in the corners. The weight transfer "tucks" the outside rear wheel in curves. The less preload on the torsions, the more the body wants to roll on the outside rear.
The inside wheel want to drop, that's your jack part.
A Z- bar or an old Empi style leaf spring sway bar helps plant the inside wheel. Without it the jack 'n' tuck thing may happen so fast it will make your head spin. Your head will spin because you may be upside- down at that point. Like I said,
Dusty1 wrote: |
Just drop the back one notch and stick lowered spindles on the front. Then banzai a decreasing radius off- ramp. |
If you want a white paper on it lower your Bug and create your own data. You can figure it out in an empty parking lot, you can even figure it out on dirt. Toss your lowered Bug into a decreasing radius corner at an increasing speed. It will go over sooner or later.
Year ago I hit an early spring frost heave in my old '67. I wasn't going that fast but I destroyed my muffler and my one year only rear apron. I lifted it one click after that. Probably wouldn't have it any other way, now.
Rumor has it Greg Aronson of FAT Performance fame had the first Cal Look Bug circa 1970. He may have used a Select-a-Drop, for that matter he may have designed the Select-a-Drop.
I still have an NOS set of Jatech spindles and 135 Michelins I bought back when I thought lookin' good potentially upside- down was where it's at.
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NJ John Samba Member

Joined: September 21, 2007 Posts: 2794 Location: HdG, MD & NJ
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 1:22 pm Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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My first bug came with one of those bolt on swaybar type lowering kits. It just forced the front end down and would sit crooked. Because the bolts were slowly pulling through the straps around the control arms.
Eventually did a cut and turn 3/8”. _________________ 1973 standard, yellow, lowered, 3” narrowed front, 1600 blo-thru turbo w/single dell 15.4@86, so far
11.41 et buggy. Long gone
Let’s go O’s! Let’s go O’s!
https://www.youtube.com/@AirSpooledGarage |
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esde Samba Member

Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 6292 Location: central rust belt
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 5:06 pm Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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I've seen the spare tire area full of scrap steel and sand bags. Stupid, yes, but also cheap. Hauling an extra few hundreds pounds around sure didn't help acceleration, man that thing was SLOW. _________________ modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that. |
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modok Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 27566 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 5:58 pm Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Cut and turn, weld. Costs nothing. better guess right tho  |
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purple rag Samba Member

Joined: March 29, 2006 Posts: 111 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 6:57 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Thanks to everyone who commented 👍 |
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madmike Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2005 Posts: 5298 Location: Atlanta,Michigan
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 7:24 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Here's one more,, I had 3 fat girl friends ,, JK  _________________ 'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works" |
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NJ John Samba Member

Joined: September 21, 2007 Posts: 2794 Location: HdG, MD & NJ
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 8:03 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Step one, remove valve from front tire valve stem.
Step two, stand back and watch the magic happen. _________________ 1973 standard, yellow, lowered, 3” narrowed front, 1600 blo-thru turbo w/single dell 15.4@86, so far
11.41 et buggy. Long gone
Let’s go O’s! Let’s go O’s!
https://www.youtube.com/@AirSpooledGarage |
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EVfun  Samba Member

Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 6070 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 8:17 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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Dusty1 wrote: |
vwtrey wrote: |
Dusty1 wrote: |
Lowered Bugs are more likely to end up on their roofs than Bug within the stock range of suspension travel. |
I'm going to need some data to back that up, if you don't mind? |
Swingaxles do a "jack and tuck" thing.
VW knew their swingaxles ddi a "jack and tuck" thing. That's why '67 and '68 got Z- bars.
The mounts are there for the Z- bar through '73 for countries who still got swingaxles after we got IRS.
The mechanics of jack 'n' tuck:
Centrifugal force loads the outside wheels in a curve. There is more weight on the rear and more load on the outside in the corners. The weight transfer "tucks" the outside rear wheel in curves. The less preload on the torsions, the more the body wants to roll on the outside rear.
The inside wheel want to drop, that's your jack part.
A Z- bar or an old Empi style leaf spring sway bar helps plant the inside wheel. Without it the jack 'n' tuck thing may happen so fast it will make your head spin. Your head will spin because you may be upside- down at that point. [snip] |
A Z-bar or EMPI camber compensator are the opposite of a sway bar and encourage the rear to lean when turning. VW took efforts to improve handling by reducing the positive rear camber of the Bug twice. In 1960 they lowered the transaxle in the frame, in 1967 they lowered the rear about an inch. I would encourage a little negative camber to improve handling. Think about it, if you have positive camber and push the rear of the Bug sideways the rear will want to lift on the outside axle, allowing it to tuck under. If you have slight negative camber it will want to drop to allow the axle to tuck in.
Most swing axle Bugs that are lowered in the rear handle like shit because they don't get the tow set right. The rear tires go forward as they go up.
What I remember from the '80's lowering was more than 1 Bug with a Select-A-Drop up front. Those of us who were broke went with cutting and turning the center of the front torsion housings for a fixed drop. Until I replaced the beam in my beach buggy just a couple years ago it was running a cut and turned beam up front.
If you are cutting and turning a king and link pin front end the front will drop about 6 times as much as you turn both beam tubes. So if you turn each tube 1/4 inch the front drops about 1-1/2 inches. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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Erik G Samba Member

Joined: October 16, 2002 Posts: 13535 Location: Tejas!
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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 11:01 am Post subject: Re: How did you lower your VW back in the day? |
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pulled torsions for sure. I still pull one or maybe 1 from each tube if it's just an adjustible full width beam. Rides a little better |
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