Raoul the 65 singlecab

[BarryL]

[Stocknazi]

I would also clean/reinstall the original tube. That Chineseum part look so much cheaper made. Where did you get that so I don't mistakenly buy one.

You need to adjust the tube by adding/subtracting spacer washers so it has the correct amount of bend per Bently.
_________________
WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).

"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."

Thomas Jefferson

[70bus]

Chinesium tube was actually made in Germany! I'll clean up the original and see how it looks; shoot, maybe I'll get lucky and it will be one of the ones you can pull the end off and cut to length. Frankly, I'd rather cut the Bowden and need to add washers than cut the frame's cable tube. However, if 2" of cable tube past the bracket precludes any other solution, out comes the saw. The amount the cable tube seems long is about the length of the ferrule at that end - about an inch. But as the debacle with the floor mat showed, I measure 7 or 8 times and can still get it wrong...


Also - I realized I made an error in a post higher up, about the emergency flashrs: the GEN light was flashing in time, not the oil. I think this might make sense, as when working properly, the eflashers will cause your engine to stop and start if you are also pressing the brake pedal. The GEN light flashing hopefully means yes, power is backfeeding through the brake lights to the ignition. Otherwise, I see no connection between the lights.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[70bus]

Hopefully sorted out the issue with Bowden (but it still looks fishy to me)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=787570

Redid the areas brake and fuel line. Finally got the RGB to spring plate bolts in, and finally torqued. Kind of a bear to keep the brake line bracket in place while using a torque wrench. Wrestled all the brake lines in place. Still need a clip or two.

Weeping axle seals, but drums aren't torqued. Hope that fixes it...

Ran accel cable; it stuck where two halves of replacement underframe tube were spliced. Luckily I was able to twist it and get it past. Cable rubbing on the slag or whatever in there might be a failure point in future, but short of cutting splice out and redoing I'll have to risk it.

Had similar issue with heaterbox cable: the passenger side wire refused to go through the part over the rear axle tube. A 10g wire and some fence wire ot same size made it, so it became obvious the issue was the cable end not being able to make the bend (too long end/too sharp bend). So a pleasant hour was spent pushing, hammering and levering the tube until I straightened it out just enough to pass the cable. Sweet; we're gonna finish sumpin' tonight!

Dropped heater knob assembly on truck bed and knob split off right at the roll pin.

Hoo frickin ray.

I had thought my seats were original, but had a faint memory mebbe they ain't. Got a hold of my buddy Rex, and he says he got them for me from a 66 Standard... maybe 67. So at least they should work. Nice recover, even if not stock.

Missing that screw on the other side...

Looking back to the first post, I note with grim bemusement:

What's probably my original mesh grey seat; lying in the junkyard sand. Looked in nice shape!

Oh well; I did get a gorgeous upholstery set from Deutschpolster, which cost more than the truck did... but are fantastic quality. I expect them to outlast the truck! Not putting those on until all the grease and tools are put away.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[mdege]

You should make sure, that the seam points to the rear at 9:00 and not pointing upwards. And it should not be twisted as seen on the photo.

Bestis to fasten the smaller clamp once the car sits on its wheels.
_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[70bus]

They were done that way by rebuilder. Small clamp is not removable/reusable - at least w/out a special tool. I am loathe to touch them in case changing them voids the warranty or something... but yeah, I should risk it because that boot is likely to tear.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[70bus]

Trying to button up the back end. Put Ebrake cables back in, installed little clip. Forum topic on the clips was very helpful. Hope that’s everything.

Put the rear Konis in; not tightened yet. Factory stiffness for now.

Gonna replace the black zips with white on the Blazecut.

The recent "3 pics" post was timely for me - realized I need some bits for my preheat.

Shop assembled it as a 1600; I was going to run my 'dusty conditions' air cleaner (no preheat) but no longer live in desert and will probably run a stock 65 carb, so I'll need to open that hole.

Test fitting of pass seat - can’t find good gallery pics and parts manual is no help: rubber button on that seat pedestal at rear center, or one of the mushrooms ones that go by doors to protect pedestal mat?

Got a splitty floor mat for $75 and put it in treasure chest. I know some frown due to rust from condensation but I intend to put things in there and prefer to slide rather than scrape.

Still haven’t found the unobtainium 12v 211953207 relay, but took the cover off a thoroughly-toasted 6v version and hid the innards to a 311963141 relay in it. Looks stock; eflashers go CLICKCLUNK like no one’s business.

Speedo light still only lights once or twice. All lights working, proper amp draw, wires seem correct (also happens w/ just turn signal) so both of my NOS early-bay t/s relays must have an internal part buggered. Bad cap or two? What else on t/s side would make speedo light blink intermittently, or just once or twice initially?

I’m also curious about the 6v relay… since it’s the coil that’s fried, I assume it’s due to running it at 12 volts? Cjschriver seems to be running his 6 v unit at 12 for the moment; if one rarely uses the eflashers I wonder how long it can last? The other question I have is if the contact side really cares about the extra 6 volts, as they are not seeing a continuous load. So can a resistor be placed on the coil side to drop input down to 6, and just run a 211953191 in my 12v bus?
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[70bus]

While waiting for some parts and advice on a clutch issue (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=788058)
I moved to -hopefully- smaller, finishable tasks.

Pulled the spreader ring from the steering column, found the holes on the bearing... but haven't managed to get it out, of course. Sigh. So the replacement spring is waay larger than original; OG compressed after years of service, or new one not as strong and needed more winds? Should I reuse the original?

Seal goes inside, or under? New floor is not centered on column, which is OK I guess?

Hooked up emergency brake cables and tightened them up a bit; will finish after wheels are on.

Stripped the powdercoating off of my Pedalwerks clutch pedal arm, as the coating was too thick for the cable end. Down to bare metal and the cable end can now swing freely as the lever moves. Not as pretty. Sorry, Scott!

Of course, while under there noticed another problem:

Tips on bending that short, stout tube without a) kinking it and b) snapping it off the mount? Wire does make contact so no es bueno like this.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[70bus]

I’ve been hopping from one uncompleted project to another as parts are waited on, I get frustrated with some other aspect, or other non-vw needs rear their heads. One thing I’ve been spending a lot of pointless time on is an extra fusebox; originally, I was going to have the headlights run through it to relays but so far the H4s seem to render it unnecessary. But I’ve run the extra harness so…

I bought an RHD fusebox frame from Alan Schofields, and was trying to figure out exactly where to put it when Clara pointed out that the RHD was a mirror image of LHD, and she could just sell me an RHD kick panel rather than make a custom one. Test fitting it, I discovered some small bumps in the frame; I assume these are spotwelds, and the fusebox would likely have been attached there. If nothing else they were a good way to index the fusebox. Not having a welder, I used some rivets. Clara’s panel was, of course, gorgeous, and I managed to get the fusebox placed fairly well. It’s extremely close to the mount for the e-flasher so I might make some sort of insulator between them A stock RHD would have had a round turn signal can here, so clearance wouldn’t be such an issue.

Yes, the fusebox is a repro with blade fuses; I have a spare OG one if it bothers me.
For my purposes, the feeds come to the top, and out the bottom; I have the leftmost 4 fuses jumpered to the ignition circuit on the main fusebox; the rest are jumpered straight back to the battery. Like I said, the headlights would have originally used those but perhaps some day I’ll put in a massive stereo…

I am pretty much done with the electrics, barring any oddities in the engine bay; I have everything labeled and tagged to prevent confusion in the future

I noticed one of my taillights - the original one - had rusted a bit since I put it in; I found a spray paint that works pretty well:

I put on the emblem since I would hopefully be closing up the nose area. I am fairly certain that the person who designed the location of emblem posts and the method of securing them bore a grudge over the outcome of a certain conflict.

_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[70bus]

Thought I would tidy up a few things. Ha!

I am tired of shitty parts.

My stock rear shifter coupler had some give, so bought a repro; my local shop said that brand had a high failure rate and not to bother. Bought a billet version cuz IT aint breaking but everyone said ‘noisey.’ Fine,but then I noticed I’d forgotten the nose cone boot. Sigh. Ok, so I’ll put in a new coupler fromWWest.

It is machined too small one one side, like 14.7mm vs 15.5. WTF. Seems a tiny difference, but I tried flipping it with the same result: only one side fits over the middle shift rod or the tranny rod. Back went the billet one. There was a little misalignment, but hopefully it’s normal. Yes, the shuttlecock bushings are in.

Put on the front rod and noticed the spring clip is in the wrong position according to the parts manual

I vaguely remember a thread stating this was wrong in the manual. Gotta double check tomorrow. Also noted manual states the black shifter plate (came with truck) is for Aug 65 down; any improvements if using the grey one, or does it need the post Sept 65 shifter mounting to work?

Also need to peen this pin back in somehow

Annoying stuff but fixable. While cleaning up my reserve cable routing, I noticed a big issue with an Ebrake cable

I am guessing the shop put the heater channel in at the wrong angle but something else could be off. I don’t see any fix (asides from cutting and rewelding) so I guess I’ll need to sleeve this section to prevent wear.

Rerouting the reserve cable went well at east

Those Grabbers are big

I put a barrel nut on the carrier stud and extended it with a bolt for now.

The rusty wing nut is original to the truck so I’ll cut a stud to the proper length so I can use it.

Last, while figuring out what to do next, I noticed this probably needs rebuilt

I assume it’s easier if the front shifter rod isn’t in.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[EverettB]

From Hazetguy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4354347#4354347

[70bus]

Thanks Everett; as usual I remembered it backwards. However, since the manual also told me to torque some bolts to 95 ft/lbs versus the proper 20 or so, I was willing to doubt it. Does the bushing move out of position if reversed? I'll fix it; just curious.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[EverettB]

[70bus]

Tried putting the shifter in. The ball and pin are usually loose on old shifters; trying to peen them in place at home isn’t really possible.

Hopefully it stays in. I used the later shifter plate with the left side ramp.

Also fixed the backwards bushing

Sadly, not only did the shifter become completely immobile once the bolts were tightened down, I think I broke my new tranny. If the bolts were left loose enough to allow the shifter plate and base to move around, I could find all of the gears except reverse. Tightening the bolts made the shifter locked and immobile. Worse, there was a bit of slop between the front and middle rods at the coupler (likely due to a worn hole in front rod) and when I was taking it out, the middle rod pulled forwards and now will not move, front back or sideways. It feels like the gear selector in the nosecone of the trans is jammed. If the trans has to come out to fix this, you will either see a classified ad for a pickup, or news reports of a large bonfire.

Since I had apparently broken something in back, I decided to take apart the front end instead. I’m a superstar at disassembly.

Steering damper came off easily, except for this bracket, which seemed to have been welded to the nut. Aside from that, everything came right out.

Tie rods out; right side on the truck had adjustable ends but the replacement didn’t. Replacement also was about an inch longer so need to check to make sure it’s correct.

Was gonna reuse the drivers side… prolly not

Drag link choices.
Left is what I took out, middle is the nos replacement I’ve had for years, and right is an nos with zerks. I’ll probably use the zerk one if no clearance issues.

After many frustrations today, I have to say it was a joy to use the proper tool for all these ball joints

I managed to find a 5/65 dated gas gauge, even though it’s 6 and not 12 volts, and it works when hooked straight to power (needle pegs full). I hooked it to a sender, and got a range of 1/4 to 3/4 when sender was tipped; that may be due to the Pacific Import sender, but the gauge may be in error. Any adjustments possible? It looks like someone may have tried to open it, as there’s a nick in bezel.

_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[70bus]

Barring some 'you forgot to do X' comment, I MAY have broken the streak of thwarted projects: put in a new center pin/bushings.

Yes, i did eventually realize the washer wasn't really gonna compress properly like this.

As many have commented, swinging a BFH with maybe 3" of ground clearance while holding a drift is a chore. I eventually got it far enough in to lay in a fetal position and hold the drift in the beam with a knee while using both hands to swing the side of the hammer against drift. Took about 1/2 hour.

Parts all out. Pin doesn't look that bad, but had a lot of vertical play. There was a rubbery pile of goo under the head so I assume there was a seal there. Bolt isn't great, but AlwaysVdub ran it through a proper die to clean it up.

Based on those witness marks, I suspect the bushing stuck out too far from the top of the beam.

Grease, but no seal in swing arm.

The small seal had disappeared from my kit, and of course no shops are open til Monday here, so I dug up a kit for an older bus I had; it had a small seal at the bottom of the pin, in a recess, and tho it had a split I used it as the seal under the swing arm. New pin has no recess for that seal.

Always nice to have the right tools. Drift from member RWK.

Not only has this job been done before, I think they tried to ream the beam!

Another 1/2 hour of banging, and then carefully running the reamer through twice; first time the taper had not quite cleared the top bushing and the pin stuck as it entered. Pin slid out with no grease, and stayed put with a thin coat of grease. No play in any direction. Whew! Mostly lined up - I was very cautious getting the clamp bolt in, putting it (and the too-long one that comes in kit) through from the back side first to make sure they threaded properly, and how far before they hit the pin. Eventually figured out that I need to move the clamp to the front of the swing arm and tilt it a little bit to get the slot lined up fully.

I marked the bushings FIF, but laying upside down with my legs up the wall in front of the bumper and my hands above my head, I did clock the lower one off a bit :P

Need to fold lock tabs and find the grease nipple in the bottom of the cleaner bucket. Test-fit the NOS drag link with Zerks. Fits, barely, due to the different bends, but didn't hit or bind.

I've done this on the bay, but it was decades ago, so thanks to Hazetguy and mynameismud and the contributors to their FAQs on the process.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[70bus]

Spindle day - let me know if anything looks horrible. The pinch bolts aren’t torqued down yet, yes.

The drivers side went on fairly easily, and I only had to lift the lower torsion arm a bit; the passenger side had FAR more tension on the lower arm, and it neede not only a Jack to lift it, the tension between the two arms made it necessary to use far more force ( ie BFH) to drive the pins home than I liked.

left arms were 7mm offset and right 8.

I’m not sure if the left side having a ‘softer’ tension on the torsion arms than right will affect stance or drivability. Frankly, at this point, the goal is wheels on the ground and engine in - I can hand it to someone who isn’t an idiot to sort it out after I get it rolling.

Didn’t have room on passenger side to take decent pics; I have about. 8” of clearance over there.

_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[70bus]

Did some more brake lines. The two front hard lines were the last needed; I’d been putting them off. No more excuses now that the spindles were on…

Left side was easy, but the right side… since I am using a dual MC, there is a tee to connect to and that changed the geometry. The hard line that comes in a kit is obviously for a single circuit MC, so the line I had was too long. I made it work, but I hate it.

Nailed the left side

Right side, eh. I dont love the loop; it looks like a good way to get vibration-induced work hardening. I see others do it, but I might need to find a shorter line or have one made up.

As soon as I get the front drums in I get to test for leaks. Actually looking forward to that, as it means it’s almost time to roll!
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[70bus]

Took the seats apart… no one spoke up when I asked if this was OG VW so I hope it wasn’t deluxe ‘caramel’ upholstery or some such ;)

Covers came off with little damage and could be reused; can’t say the same for coir. Bottom of 2/3 seat had my truck floor looking like Burt Reynolds’ chest in The Longest Yard…1/3 seat back had an obvious replacement (carpet as underlayment) but the original VW seat pad is still usable.

Fabric says Tex 75 which is a thread weight, didn’t know they classed vinyl like that as well

Wolfsburg West replacement on right, but I’ll use OG.

VW 2/3 pad is likely not salvageable.

Springs are ok but a little saggy in middle. Have to see if that can be fixed. Not gonna powder coat but I do have some 2k epoxy Anthracite rattle cans.

_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams

[BarryL]

[70bus]

Is the partition flat spring the bar going across the seat from back to front? That’s there. I contacted Corey at Deutsch polster, and he thought the seats looked pretty good from the pics. Said the coir and padding should fix the lumpy springs, too. Mesh Grey covers should show up early next week and I’ll see if the shop doing the work agrees the seats are ok.

I wasn’t going to do this step yet, but I couldn’t stand the idea of vacuuming the cab every time I sat in it….
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people."
-Robert Williams