Engine build list for roasting

[UniBug]

Dpr counterbalanced 69mm crank
85,5 Mahle forged pistons and jugs
Dpr ac2 cam
HPMX 40 single carb
Chinese dual port heads
Stock heater boxes running into cleaned out stock muffler
034 dizzy
ChroMo 8mm studs (not “needed” I hear)
New case, drilled tapped
Cb full flow 26mm maxi pump to an external filter
Doghouse cooler and tins
Stainless windage tubes
Koblenschmidt mains rod and cam bearings .25 under
Rebuilt factory rockers
Dpr light weight flywheel
Target static compression ratio 8.4:1
Deck 035


The heads have a pretty decent three angle job on them, but haven’t been flycut to final volume yet.

What’s gonna be my issues?

C.

[UniBug]

Sorry, purpose/application:

67 bug grocerygetter/fire road toy.

[richparker]

Too small
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[UniBug]

I get that perspective, but I decided smaller was ok.

C.

[Apostle_]

Sounds like a smooth combo. Full balance?

[bcferrini]

Geeze-as long as you're doing a full new build, why not opt for a 74mm crank and 88mm thick-wall slip-ins. The added torque will be more than noticeable. Builds like a stock motor.
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" I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!"

[UniBug]

Yes, full balance.

I debated engine size a lot, but ended up at a 1600 because I think that’s big enough and I don’t really want to have enough power that my brother can tear it up?



C.

[UniBug]

I understand that the general samba thing to be make it go faster, I want to also keep it a simple every,an car so my wife/brother/idiot friends can drive it without worrying too much about how hot this or that is.

Modern people ain’t good at that stuff.

C.

[67rustavenger]

What rods and rod bearings are you planning on using?

The single HPMX will work, but you'll need intake manifold heat to keep the atomized fuel in suspension all the way to the heads.
A better setup would be a set of dual 40 IDF clones from eBay. I have used them in the past and they work quite well.

For a simple carb setup. Just use a 34 pict3 carb to go with your 034 distributor.

You are correct, everyone here recommends building larger displacement engines.
I have four here. 1600SP, 1600DP, 1679DP and a 2276DP screamer.
The 1600's are dead simple to work on and damn near indestructible.
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There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[UniBug]

I have a set of oem rods that I checked and balanced. I think they are good enough for this?

I will plan to keep the manifold heat. Thank you!


Charles

[UniBug]

I will look into my pic 34 options.

I thought about building it up like a low compression class 11, but I don’t think I’ll ever race it competitively enough to have a tear down…

[esde]

A well detailed and thoughtfully built 1600 can drive like a larger motor.
I generally hate tuning single two barrel carbs, because you just reek of gas from changing jets and standing in front of the exhaust. But if you set the heat risers up so one side pulls vacuum, it can work ok.
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[gt1953]

As mentioned the stck 34 pict would be keeping it simple.
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Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[early]

I built a similar engine to this last year.

DPR 69mm CW crank, Flywheel, pressure plate - balanced.
balanced DPR rebuilt rods
DPR AC2 reground Camshaft with -3 indexed cam gear
Mahle cast pistons - balanced to .4 grams
CSP SS muffler
Autolinea DP heads - 50cc chambers
.06 Deck height - 7.7:1 compression
CB aluminum pushrods cut to fit
CB solid rocker shafts with stock rocker arms shimmed to .03 .

i built this as a practice build before my 1835 bus engine that i am working on now.

remember you will have to cut pushrods to fit your rocker arm geometry because the AC2 cam is reground so it has a smaller Base Circle.

i'm running a SOLEX BROSOL H30/31 right now and I'm pretty happy with the way it sounds and runs !

[zerotofifty]

Fire roads.... a sand seal pulley should be considered.
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[zerotofifty]

I have heard that some aftermarket heads may have questionable valve seat install. I have had a shop redo the valve seats on new heads because of this. You dont want a seat to come loose. Sure it is more money up front, but peace of mind is worth it. a loose seat later can be pricey to fix, cheaper to fix now during the build.
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Give peace a chance. No American war with Russia!

[VW_Jimbo]

Why a lighter flywheel? Like by how much lighter?

Typical lightened flywheel is like driving, ON…OFF…ON…..OFF. You feel every movement of your foot! Not a great thing going through the neighborhood. But maybe it is what you have in mind.

If it were me, I would stick with a stock flywheel. Way better driving experience, in my opinion. Heck, you could even have just a tiny bit taken off at a machine shop.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[UniBug]

I need to look into a sand seal perhaps. I don’t actually know what one is.

Lightened flywheel becuase thats what I got when I bought the mess of stuff.

Maybe I can find someone to buy the HPMX kit, it’s new in the box?

[rcooled]

[VW_Jimbo]