Thinking of trying to build an engine for my type 3

[dommer]

I've been working on my Squareback a lot lately and that's got me down an engine building rabbit's hole on youtube. It seems like it would be a lot of fun and I'd learn a lot. I put together a build list and was hoping for some advice. One thing I'm struggling a bit with is engine tin. I was hoping to get a full set so that I could build the engine while keeping my existing stock engine in my car, but type 3 tin sure seems in short supply these days, and as far as I can tell, nobody is manufacturing anything in the aftermarket.

So I was thinking of going kind of big. At first I was thinking I'd do just a 1776, but when I priced that out it seemed like it wasn't THAT much cheaper than going with a stroker, and so I just kind of thought, well, in for a penny, in for a pound.

So I came up with the following for 94x82 (2276) build. I'd like to do most of the work myself, although I realize there's a bit I'd need a machine shop for, but I think that's kind of minimal (as far as I can see just the long cylinders, and then having the fan balanced, although I'm not sure the latter is necessary).

EMPI Dual VW Carburetor Kit - 44 HPMX - Type 3 Dual Port
1158 White Rhino Aluminum Super Case (94 Bore) 7.0mm Deck (10mm studs)
Volksracer Crankshaft – VW Pin, Type I Main (84 mm Stroke)
Engle W-110 Cam
Engle VW High Performance Lifters - Set of 8 - Type 1 1200-1600
SCAT 4340 5.394" (5.400") H-Beam Connecting Rods, Type 1 Journals, 3/8" ARP 2000 Bolts, Balanced, Set of 4, 102502-3
AA Performance VW 94mm 2276cc Racing Forged Piston & Long Cylinder Kit
Oil Pump, 30mm Gears, Full Flow, Flat Cam Schadek
Stage 1 Clutch Kit, Kennedy Pressure Plate, Rigid Disc with Late Throwout Bearing
SCAT 200mm Forged Chromoly Lightweight Flywheel 12.5 lbs., 8 Dowel
1673 Panchito 044™ (40 x 35.5) 94 Bore (each)
1577 Forged 1.4:1 Rocker Arms
123 Ignition TUNE+-4-R-V-V
Scat Pair of Bolt-on Aluminum Valve Covers
Billet Aluminum Full Flow Oil Pump Cover, Blue Anodized
Cylinder Head Tins PAIR (Dualport Shrouds), Black
Elring Engine Gasket Set with Main Seal, made in Germany
10mm Cut-to-Length Dual-Port 4140 Stud Kit (190m)

I'm sure there's several things in here which are not advisable/compatible with a type 3, or things which don't really suit the build. I've never built an engine before, so this would be something I'm doing to learn and because it seems really fun. Any advice would be appreciated.

[Glenn]

[VWporscheGT3]

I dont think you going down the wrong road ... just a few suggestions


STD length 94mm cylinders, and Icon's . if you went with c's you could run a long rod and save yourself the headache of a wider motor.

there are so many better options than a Engle 110, i would go 120 at a minimum but there are so many better options.

most folks will say stay away from the 30mm pump.. i tend to agree, you will need a pressure relief cover to make that one livable which means more cutting into your fan shroud .

i also think you are limiting yourself with the panchitos...


you will want to run a external cooler above your transmission and a remote oil filter also.

personally this is what i am running and im pretty happy with it as it was a budget stroker.

as41 case
cb 76mm crank lightened flywheel
5.400 rods
ICON forged pistons* (custom compression height since i work for UEM)
30mm pump , berg pressure relief cover
generic big valve heads that had to be hand ported.
CB 2239* cam (i'm pretty sure thats it,its just a step above a 110ish cam
std rockers on solid shafts
steel pushrods.
Dual 44 chinese webers

ends up being a 2110cc
in a 69 fastback. i live at 5K altitude and it pulls the local passes no problem 8-9K altitude

its a fun engine in this car. and i cant stress enough that this was a budget build. if i had the perfect budget i would go with an aluminum case like you cb 1423 cnc ported cylinder heads , etc.

everyone always wants the biggest they can get there hands on at first.. but only a few ask the question of... is it truly necessary? thats for you to decide
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If you have any questions about Forged ICON 4032 VW pistons just shoot me a line.

[dommer]

The thread you recommended is amazing, thanks.

[jpaull]

The no name copies are a safer bet then the HPMX copies, and the no name copies are $150 for 2 carbs.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/387581450396?_skw=weber+i...BMhvbprfhl

The CB2239 with 1.25 rockers or CB2236 1.4 rockers would be a little better then a 110.
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2236.htm?s...UmOCctbE-F

Going with rockers with the adjuster on the pushrod side would be reliable, and the rockers . The 1.38 would be great and only $142 for the set
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-valvetrain/products/1-3-ratio-rockers

I would buy the AA 92thickwalls. They are a very durable set that is affordable and well suited for a heavier type 3 and your 40x35 head choice. Not to discount anything VWporscheGT3 Arecommends. His choice is high quality and a great choice for a bit more cash.
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[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth.

[Brian_e]

Make sure you do another month of reading BEFORE you order ANY parts.

Are you planning to buy measuring tools and learn how to use them?

Are you going to be really pissed off when nothing arrives correct, and most parts will need some form of massaging?

Do you have the patients to put it together, and pull it back apart NO LESS than 8-10 times just to make sure things are correct?

Do you want heat with this thing?

Are you planning t road trip it, or just rip around town and get ice cream?

These days with clearanced cases, properly building a 1776cc, is really no different than building a 2332cc. You just need to check a few things.

I agree with everything Trevor said. If I was building an engine for a T3 cruiser, I would do this.

STD height CB aluminum case, 8mm studs
Tims S1 heads
CB 82mm crank VW journal
CB H beams 5.4 VW journal
I like ICONS's, and I would use them, but regular AA94B's will work also.
Web 163 cam
.042" deck height, and 9.0:1 compression
1.3 rockers
CB ultra light lifters
PDowns Shockwave ign kit.
CB linkage and T3 manifold kit
China 44 IDF's
VSpeed muffler.
light flywheel
KEP S1 pressure plate Daiken disk

It will go together nicely, have a bunch of low end power, but still rev. You will need to run an external cooler and filter.

DO NOT think you will be able to toss it all together in a weekend. I would guess on average, a typical guy on here in his garage will spend 2-3 months of evenings getting an engine put together correctly. That is if all goes pretty well, and noting needs to be sent off for extra machine work.

Good luck, and ask plenty of questions. That 1800cc build thread is a real life example of how an engine build really goes. And he had it easy with a T1. You will have the T3 issues working against you.

Brian
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So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok


www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts

[b-man]

Note that Brian advised using a STD height case.

To avoid issues with cooling tin fitment on a Type 3 you absolutely must strive for a stock width engine above all.
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1956 Dove Blue Panel
1966 Velvet Green Single Cab
1957 L41 Black Oval Window Beetle

[Alstrup]

I second the Web 163 bbut with 1,3 rockers.
Then a set of Tims stage 2 heads.

This is an awesome combbo on a big displacement with short intakes.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[Teeroy]

110 is not a ratio rocker cam, no 1.4s unless you change cam, Brian's choice is solid, WEB 218 might be fun in a heavy Type 3 (also not ratio rocker). I also prefer Tims Heads (Stage 1 Plus for this one)
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