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An Alaska NSYNCro build
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TomInAlaska
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Joined: June 02, 2007
Posts: 470
Location: Anchorage, Ak
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2025 8:28 pm    Post subject: Re: An Alaska NSYNCro build Reply with quote

uberaudi wrote:


That's incredible! Love the old school look to it. Does it actually play cassettes too?


Haha, nah, it doesn't really play cassettes. Disappointing, I know. Laughing There is a USB port behind that flap, though, so its not completely for looks.
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'73 Super Beetle (formerly resto-mod/rally look with a healthy 1776, currently in another round of resto with a 1641)

'84 GL adventure van project [sold] (1.9L, 4speed) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=755844&highlight=

'86 Syncro tintop (2.0L Eurospec/ABA engine swap) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=800194&highlight=
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TomInAlaska
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Posts: 470
Location: Anchorage, Ak
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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2025 3:12 pm    Post subject: Re: An Alaska NSYNCro build Reply with quote

Today was the day I do something about the box of brake parts I've been tripping over for a month.

Upacking the Small Car kit:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Stock brakes:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And throwing on the GoWesty cv protectors while I had things apart:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And done:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



It all went together without a hitch. All the old bolts and line fittings and things came apart as easy as you please and the new stuff went into place smooth as butter. I was able to reach in to press the pedal to bleed by hand on the driver's side but mostly relied on gravity for the passenger. The pedal feels a tiny bit softer than before (might be better if I do a proper flush and bleed all the way around, the fluid in the reservoir looked like it had been in there a long time) but the stopping performance is massively improved! Definitely one of the better upgrades I've done so far.
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'73 Super Beetle (formerly resto-mod/rally look with a healthy 1776, currently in another round of resto with a 1641)

'84 GL adventure van project [sold] (1.9L, 4speed) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=755844&highlight=

'86 Syncro tintop (2.0L Eurospec/ABA engine swap) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=800194&highlight=
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TomInAlaska
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Posts: 470
Location: Anchorage, Ak
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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2025 6:07 pm    Post subject: Re: An Alaska NSYNCro build Reply with quote

Another work session, another seemingly unrelated issue pops up. Rolling Eyes

Yesterday I was finally able to set aside enough time on a nice day to get the stainless steel coolant pipes and new radiator hoses installed. I also flushed as much of the remaining coolant system as possible and got lots of old looking yellowish green coolant out of the radiator and heaters and engine. New pipes and hoses went back in without too much fuss and then came time to refill and try to get as much air as possible out. I used a combination of filling the pressure tank, then pressurizing it with the gowesty hand pump to push coolant into the system, then cracking the bleeder on the radiator to let the air out up there. The van was parked on a slight incline with the nose up for all this, by the way. Anyway, after I got about 3 gallons pushed in like that, I cranked the engine and let it idle to cycle the coolant and build pressure for further bleeding. This was going pretty well, maybe 20 minutes of idle time, until the engine got up to temperature per the gauge and then started running really rough. Idle speed dropped way down, misfiring like crazy, not immediately responding to throttle, then it would 'catch' and rev like normal then settle back into a normal idle for a minute then run rough again. It almost felt like it was running out of gas, but per the gauge and miles since fill-up, it has about half a tank. I checked as many electrical connections I could, including the fuel pump relay (which looks to be factory). Pulled the plugs and they look fantastic. Cap and rotor had a little crud on the contacts which I cleaned, but I've seen way worse. No loose hoses or any obvious sources of vacuum leaks, either.

Today I was back at it, and found it would crank and run fine for a couple of seconds then completely die. Like it ran out of gas. I am beginning to suspect the pump itself. Like the relay, it looks like it might be factory. I do have a spare pump I'll try tomorrow and see if that changes anything. But if anybody has any other ideas though, I'm all ears.
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'73 Super Beetle (formerly resto-mod/rally look with a healthy 1776, currently in another round of resto with a 1641)

'84 GL adventure van project [sold] (1.9L, 4speed) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=755844&highlight=

'86 Syncro tintop (2.0L Eurospec/ABA engine swap) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=800194&highlight=
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TomInAlaska
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Posts: 470
Location: Anchorage, Ak
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2025 12:02 pm    Post subject: Re: An Alaska NSYNCro build Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm fairly confident that's the factory fuel pump. I'm also cautiously optimistic that it's still in good working order and that the issues I was seeing were due to bad connections and/or dirt in the gas. I did pull a sample and saw a tiny amount of dirt or something.

Maybe the fact that I was idling the engine without moving let enough of whatever shmoo is in the tank to settle and get picked up by the pump and partially clogged it? In any case, I sprayed the intake and output of the pump with brake clean, sanded the contacts and very slightly squeezed the female spade wire ends to get a better connection, and put it back in place. It does seem to be running normally so I'll take it for a drive later today to see if how it acts. I will keep my spare pump and everything to swap it out in the van just in case.
_________________
'73 Super Beetle (formerly resto-mod/rally look with a healthy 1776, currently in another round of resto with a 1641)

'84 GL adventure van project [sold] (1.9L, 4speed) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=755844&highlight=

'86 Syncro tintop (2.0L Eurospec/ABA engine swap) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=800194&highlight=


Last edited by TomInAlaska on Sat May 17, 2025 1:01 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Sodo
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Joined: July 06, 2007
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Location: Western WA
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2025 12:21 pm    Post subject: Re: An Alaska NSYNCro build Reply with quote

TomInAlaska wrote:
It all went together without a hitch.

Dang but that was a nice hitch Wink
TomInAlaska wrote:
Next on the list in addressing the driveline vibrations.
it felt like it was trying to shake itself apart above like 15 mph.
----> Imagine my surprise when I found that the u-joints were out of phase! No wonder it was shaking so bad! I quickly unbolted the rubber donut from the main propshaft body and rotated the u-joints to be in phase. I did drive it a few miles yesterday and the vibrations were vastly improved,

interesting.... the angle is only ~4° so it surprises me that the pulsation could be noticeable.
Of course the phase should be corrected.
No stone un-turned in the pursuit of Syncronicity

TomInAlaska wrote:
While I had the propshaft out, I scrapped and cleaned as much of the unevenly sprayed on rubberized undercoating off as possible.
Its probably not enough weight to throw the thing out of balance but every little bit helps, right?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now I'm gonna go the other way and opine that the weight of that undercoating is more than enough to throw off the balance.
I wonder how many other vehicles suffered that undercoater's blessed touch.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

YouTube university shows driveline vibration affected simply by the weight of the worm-drive-screw on a hoseclamp.
I was going to try that but didn't have a long enough hoseclamp,
so I put two together and clamped peice of scrap steel in the middle.

Try and imagine the glee when the vibration disappeared on the FIRST TRY!
I think I'd better test again to be certain it wasn't my imagination.
I will report back if the vibration is still there. Cool

TomInAlaska wrote:
Today I was back at it, and found it would crank and run fine for a couple of seconds then completely die. Like it ran out of gas. I am beginning to suspect the pump itself. Like the relay, it looks like it might be factory. I do have a spare pump I'll try tomorrow and see if that changes anything. But if anybody has any other ideas though, I'm all ears.

Got any pressure gauges in your toybox 0-50psi? Conjure up a fuel pressure test rig.
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'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
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TomInAlaska
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Location: Anchorage, Ak
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2025 12:58 pm    Post subject: Re: An Alaska NSYNCro build Reply with quote

Sodo wrote:

Got any pressure gauges in your toybox 0-50psi? Conjure up a fuel pressure test rig.


I do have a fuel pressure test gauge but haven’t yet figured out how to hook it up. I did find the regulator yesterday while crawling around under there tucked up partially inside the intake manifold (at the end of the fuel rail of course). There’s probably a test port like on a waterboxer, but I haven’t seen it yet.If I still have issues I think actually testing the pressure is the next step.
_________________
'73 Super Beetle (formerly resto-mod/rally look with a healthy 1776, currently in another round of resto with a 1641)

'84 GL adventure van project [sold] (1.9L, 4speed) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=755844&highlight=

'86 Syncro tintop (2.0L Eurospec/ABA engine swap) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=800194&highlight=
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TomInAlaska
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Joined: June 02, 2007
Posts: 470
Location: Anchorage, Ak
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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2025 12:05 pm    Post subject: Re: An Alaska NSYNCro build Reply with quote

Just got back from a ~5 mile trip to West Marine for a handful of new hose clamps (the good kind without cutouts and with rolled edges) to replace the old ones I had to reuse on the coolant pipes to engine adapter pipe to ABA hose sections. They're holding, but better safe than sorry. Anywho, apart from a few sputters at the end of the driveway which I assume was a little air in the lines, it ran great. Hard to say for certain, but I feel like it idles smoother and maybe even makes a couple more horsepowers. More miles will tell if I actually fixed anything or not but so far so good. Cool

I've also got a new fuel filter on order, but I've been toying with the idea of a spin-on type filter with water separation. Being a syncro, locations to put it are somewhat limited. Maybe high up in the wheel well? With a sheetmetal guard for rock protection?
_________________
'73 Super Beetle (formerly resto-mod/rally look with a healthy 1776, currently in another round of resto with a 1641)

'84 GL adventure van project [sold] (1.9L, 4speed) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=755844&highlight=

'86 Syncro tintop (2.0L Eurospec/ABA engine swap) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=800194&highlight=
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TomInAlaska
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Posts: 470
Location: Anchorage, Ak
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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2025 7:46 pm    Post subject: Re: An Alaska NSYNCro build Reply with quote

Today I tackled rehabbing the sliding door with the rebuild kit from GW:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Apart from the cover panel that needed a generous application of WD40 along the rubber strip and soft face mallet, the only real problem was one of the bearings on the rear hinge mechanism. It was in very bad shape and fell apart when I tried to pry it off. I had to get a little creative to get the inner race off. I cut a part of a washer and a drift punch.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


New bearings and nylon guide wheel installed:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The under the panel area cleaned up and track hit with a coat of bare-metal primer:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The rest went together without a hitch and now the door is noticeably smoother and quieter. Great success. Very Happy
_________________
'73 Super Beetle (formerly resto-mod/rally look with a healthy 1776, currently in another round of resto with a 1641)

'84 GL adventure van project [sold] (1.9L, 4speed) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=755844&highlight=

'86 Syncro tintop (2.0L Eurospec/ABA engine swap) https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=800194&highlight=
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