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baldessariclan
Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2016
Posts: 2040
Location: Wichita, KS
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 Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2025 7:28 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| stagewex wrote: |
Really only a stupid question because parts (replacement parts) are so available across the spectrum. Just make/take your pick along all the vendors sites.
The ignition switch/Key switch has finally given up the ghost after 52 years of service. A few times over the last couple months the lights on the speedometer gauge have come on but no click to the starter. I checked the wiring and also the starter and all looks fine. If I turn it back and forth (the key switch) a couple times it will respond in the affirmative. I guess just worn out?
1973 Super Beetle sedan. so 2 questions:
1) Is there any preference or part number or any particular vendor over another? They all seem the same to me though the quality of replacement parts seems to be always a poke-and-hope gamble these days. I've bought a bunch of stuff from Wolfsburg West and of course JBugs over the years.
2) Will I be able to use my original key/tumbler in the new ignition? I'd like to of course.
Thanks |
You may want to double check your wiring connections at the battery and starter, but yes still high probability that the ignition switch itself is dirty and/or getting worn out. You can always remove it and carefully disassemble, to see if maybe it can be salvaged (i.e. it might just be dirty, and needs to be cleaned & re-lubed). But in answer to your numbered questions:
1) If you're buying a brand-new aftermarket switch, I don't really think it matters much who you buy it from -- I've heard no reports of good, reliable new ignition switched coming from anybody, lately. Before buying, you may want to confirm w/ seller about their return policy for substandard quality items...
If you want to search for a NOS or good used switch, would suggest considering sources like the Samba classifieds, Bug City, VWNOS, Avery's Aircooled, car show swap meets, eBay, etc.
2) I believe that the lock tumbler can normally be separated/removed from the ignition switch, so you should be able to reuse your current one with a replacement ignition switch. Or if an all-new lock tumbler, you can take or send it to a reputable locksmith (who is also knowledgeable about old VW locks) to have the tumblers switched out to match your current ignition key.
_________________
1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver
baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt... |
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OldSchoolVW's 
Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2020
Posts: 1411
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2025 1:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| stagewex wrote: |
| The ignition switch/Key switch has finally given up the ghost after 52 years of service. A few times over the last couple months the lights on the speedometer gauge have come on but no click to the starter. I checked the wiring and also the starter and all looks fine. If I turn it back and forth (the key switch) a couple times it will respond in the affirmative. I guess just worn out? |
I had the same symptoms with my '69 3 years ago. Installed a hard start relay and haven't had any problem since. The START contacts in the ignition switch are probably worn to the point that they cannot deliver enough current to the starter to engage it, but can likely still provide more than enough to trigger a relay. I'd try installing a HSR first. It may extend the life of your ignition switch for years and save you the hassle of replacing it.
https://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/relay_starter.htm
_________________
Tom
"Following distance is proportional to IQ."
"It's okay to think."
"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller
'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33080
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2025 6:25 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| stagewex wrote: |
2) Will I be able to use my original key/tumbler in the new ignition? I'd like to of course.
Thanks |
Sounds like you just need the electrical portion of the ignition switch, likely NOT the tumbler part.
I've replaced the electrical part once each on both my 1970 and 1971 over the 52 and 48 years I've had them. The tumbler parts are factory.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Meta4
Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2025
Posts: 1
Location: South Africa
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| Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2025 11:56 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Has anyone ever measured the amount of airflow over the oil cooler ( doghouse)
I'm a bit concerned that my '76 1600 twinport is not pushing enough air through the oil cooler and down the oil cooler duct. My concern is baseless, because I have no reference as to how much it should be. anyone? |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33080
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2025 1:22 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Meta4 wrote: |
Has anyone ever measured the amount of airflow over the oil cooler ( doghouse)
I'm a bit concerned that my '76 1600 twinport is not pushing enough air through the oil cooler and down the oil cooler duct. My concern is baseless, because I have no reference as to how much it should be. anyone? |
Not a stupid question.
If the air flow is truly lower than it should be, issues could include too-narrow of a fan inside the shroud or blockage of the oil cooler (either by leaky cooler or something that got caught inside the shroud - like a plastic bag - obstructing the air flow.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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mukluk
Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7452
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2025 2:48 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Meta4 wrote: |
Has anyone ever measured the amount of airflow over the oil cooler ( doghouse)
I'm a bit concerned that my '76 1600 twinport is not pushing enough air through the oil cooler and down the oil cooler duct. My concern is baseless, because I have no reference as to how much it should be. anyone? |
I can absolutely guarantee the VW factory measured the airflow, and it's a safe bet others have done so as well over the years. As to what the actual data is, can't say that I've seen it published anywhere.
You say you're concerned that you're not getting enough air through the oil cooler yet also say your concern is baseless -- so which is it, are you having an issue with the car that is causing this concern, or do you have no issues with the car but want to address an irrational fear?
_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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Multivanagon
Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2018
Posts: 16
Location: St. Paul MN
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| Posted: Mon May 19, 2025 5:44 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'm finally working on the 71 super beetle 18yr old me parked over 30 years ago.
First question, what the heck is this thing connected to the fuel lines? Fuel line from fan shroud goes into it, then it goes to the fuel pump, back in, and out to the carb. I assume it can be removed and bypassed. This is a California emissions car.
The second question is what is needed to remove the deceleration valve on the carb?
_________________
Current VWs:
1990 Vanagon Multivan
2019 Golf Alltrack
1971 Super Beetle project
1996 Special Edition Trek Jetta mountain bike
Past VWs:
2008 Passat Wagon
1999.5 Golf
1991 Golf |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 8011
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Tue May 20, 2025 5:01 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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The first is a check valve. The 2nd I believe is dashpot connected to the altitude compensator.
Why remove working items from the motor?
_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke
“If something cannot go on forever, it will stop.”
Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...languishing since 2022.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Multivanagon
Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2018
Posts: 16
Location: St. Paul MN
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| Posted: Tue May 20, 2025 7:11 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks vamram. Valid point, why change things that worked when parked in 1993.
I'm sure the check valve is ok-ish since it was parked with ethanol free fuel. Thanks past self.
Of course question #2 has already been answered on thesamba and it serves a purpose.
Introduction to throttle positioner and altitude adjuster!
Progress this year on the 71 super includes:
Fuel
Carburetor rebuild
Fuel tank cleanout
New fuel lines
Brakes
Master cylinder
New soft lines
Pads
Wheel cylinders
Upholstery
TMI basketweave
Next up is to finish bleeding and adjusting the brakes, clean the points, throw in a battery, some fuel, and see if it will run. It still needs a lot of work. Probably needs a different motor since this one has excessive endplay, clutch chatter (bowden tube?), front suspension rebuild and tires. This is a California car that moved to the midwest sometime in the late 70's or 80's. I purchased it from the original owner with 85K OG miles.
_________________
Current VWs:
1990 Vanagon Multivan
2019 Golf Alltrack
1971 Super Beetle project
1996 Special Edition Trek Jetta mountain bike
Past VWs:
2008 Passat Wagon
1999.5 Golf
1991 Golf |
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PNW PAUL
Samba Member
Joined: April 17, 2024
Posts: 1
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2025 11:43 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hi All. Just acquired a 1977 sunroof beetle with relatively low miles. It has amazing potential to be restored back to its former Bahama Blue glory. This is my first of likely to be many questions to the knowledge base of all things Beetle!
This was a California car and thus has a catalytic converter. The exhaust is rusted out, and I'd like to install a non-catalytic muffler. Is there any adaptation needed to do this, or will the removal of the existing system allow the new muffler to be bolted on?
Many thanks in advance! |
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OldSchoolVW's
Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2020
Posts: 1411
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2025 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| PNW PAUL wrote: |
Hi All. Just acquired a 1977 sunroof beetle with relatively low miles.
This was a California car and thus has a catalytic converter. The exhaust is rusted out, and I'd like to install a non-catalytic muffler. Is there any adaptation needed to do this, or will the removal of the existing system allow the new muffler to be bolted on? |
Just something to consider ... though Washington no longer has emissions tests, it is illegal to drive a vehicle with modified emissions equipment. ( https://ecology.wa.gov/air-climate/air-quality/vehicle-emissions/emissions-check-ends ) I doubt switching the exhaust would create any DMV issues while you own the car, but it might become an issue when you sell the car. Just something to be aware of.
_________________
Tom
"Following distance is proportional to IQ."
"It's okay to think."
"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller
'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback |
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baldessariclan
Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2016
Posts: 2040
Location: Wichita, KS
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2025 5:47 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| PNW PAUL wrote: |
| This was a California car and thus has a catalytic converter. The exhaust is rusted out, and I'd like to install a non-catalytic muffler. Is there any adaptation needed to do this, or will the removal of the existing system allow the new muffler to be bolted on? |
You might want to check what sort of intake manifold you currently have on your car. IIRC, some of the CA bugs w/ catalytic converters had heat risers on the intakes w/ two holes on each end, rather than the usual one hole at each end. You’ll need the muffler and intake manifold to be compatible at this connection point (i.e. the heat riser to muffler connection).
Note that you can always consider switching out your intake manifold & heat riser assembly if necessary, to match the more commonly available “standard” mufflers.
_________________
1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver
baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt... |
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NachoCar
Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2013
Posts: 367
Location: Ms
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| Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2025 6:47 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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what/where in rear stcok brakes does this sucker go? Fell out as I was using BFH to switch drums out.
Thanks
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EVfun
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 6152
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2025 7:03 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| NachoCar wrote: |
what/where in rear stcok brakes does this sucker go? Fell out as I was using BFH to switch drums out.
Thanks
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Look at the ebrake lever attached to the left brake shoe. See the pin at the top? Your part goes on the back side of that pin to keep it from falling out of the brake shoe. It is pinched together at the ears slightly to hold it into a groove on the pin. (picture from 70'DerpyDerby)
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33080
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2025 7:36 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| EVfun wrote: |
| Look at the ebrake lever attached to the left brake shoe. See the pin at the top? Your part goes on the back side of that pin to keep it from falling out of the brake shoe. It is pinched together at the ears slightly to hold it into a groove on the pin. |
That "horseshoe clip" goes on the hidden side of the pivot pin highlighted with red arrow in this photo.
These clips typically get re-used every time one installs new rear brake shoes. The clips and giant cotter pin do not come with a set of rear brake shoes, unfortunately.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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OldSchoolVW's
Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2020
Posts: 1411
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2025 7:44 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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From hazetguy in the gallery:
_________________
Tom
"Following distance is proportional to IQ."
"It's okay to think."
"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller
'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback |
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NachoCar
Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2013
Posts: 367
Location: Ms
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| Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2025 7:53 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Thanks Gents!! |
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BIGMIKEY
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2007
Posts: 1137
Location: North East Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2025 11:27 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| BCE56 wrote: |
What would cause front disc brakes (Empi conversion) failure to retract/remain in contact with rotor?
During a short drive yesterday, I noticed reduced pedal free play, brakes were dragging. Discs were very hot.
No previous issues since professional installation 6K miles ago.
Rear drum brakes apparently not affected. Parking brake functions normally. |
As pads wear more of the caliper piston is out of the bore. Corrosion can form and keep the piston from retracting. On my Girrling calpers the rubber boot disintegrated allowing moisture to corrode and jam the pads against the rotor. Might want to look into that too.
_________________
BIGMIKEY
Deserter Series 1 project.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=787047&highlight=
1973 Beetle Driver, Marina Blue. |
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EVfun
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 6152
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2025 10:51 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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This may not be the best place to ask but...
What is the center to center length of the trailing arms on the king and link pin front end?
Thanks!
_________________
| Wildthings wrote: |
| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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Tahlequah
Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2007
Posts: 381
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