Frame Head and Frame Head support advice 1974 VW Beetle

[rxjimbo]

Thank you all in advance for your input. I have a 1974 VW Beetle that I am restoring. I have some areas of concern on the frame head. Replace this frame head and head support or repair? The location of the larger rust hole on the bottom could be challenging given its location. I have priced the replacements on JBugs for the Frame Head and Frame head support for a little over $300. Thoughts? TIA!

[busdaddy]

Welcome!

When you say "restoring" does that mean a full body off, no bolt untouched rebuild to like new?, or a coat of wax, some shiny new wheels and an air freshener?

A frame head is a critical part of the car's integrity, if you are digging in you might as well spend the extra few bucks now, replacing it later is going to be a major pain, both in time and money.

How much is safety worth to you?, old cars aren't cheap.
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[rxjimbo]

I apologize! First post on Samba. Frame off. Let's see if these images come through.

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[Q-Dog]

I see nothing critically dangerous or difficult to fix. I would patch it up and roll it.

Replacing the frame head is A LOT of work and it is critical to get things lined up, straight and square.
_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[Bobs67vwagen]

I think you may be able to get by with replacing the frame head bottom plate and patching the rest. Hopefully you have some welding skills. Good luck-Bob

[rxjimbo]

Thanks for the advice all!

[busdaddy]

I agree, some strategic patching can save that, it's pretty tame compared to some.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[rxjimbo]

Thanks everyone! I work with someone with lots of welding experience. I have a little HF flux core welder. Gonna have her look at some practice welds on some scrap metal first. Looks like most folks use MIG with gas when doing frame work and floor pans. I may be buying another welder.

[Bobs67vwagen]

My experience has been that flux core and metal that has some rust in it do not get along. What I found is it is hard to get the temperature just right, and because of that I often get burn through instead of a weld. I believe the shielding gas used with metal with traces of rust works a bit better. I am sure others will weigh in on this. Good luck-Bob

[rxjimbo]

Thanks Bob! That is exactly what me welder friend said as well! I will do more welding research and get some practice welds in with similar metal gauge before touching the frame. Appreciate all the advice! It is amazing what one learns in this restoration journey.

[jinx758]

Aftermarket panels will ALWAYS disappoint as they are thinner & not formed correctly.

Search for one that can be cut out of a "junked" chassis either locally or maybe Avery's or DVAP. A car club member may have a line on one as well.
Shake the bushes a little & you'll be happy with what falls out.

I have never - nor will ever - give JunkBugs The Reseller a penny from my wallet. 95% of my car club has/will either.

Factory metal for the win ... stay safe

jinx
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference ...

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[rxjimbo]