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renobdarb Samba Member

Joined: September 13, 2005 Posts: 878 Location: Eastern Idaho
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Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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Patrick199 wrote: |
If you MUST use Rustoleum, and if you have little or no experience with a spray gun of any sort, then you might as well just use spray cans. It's the exact same stuff that they sell in quarts and gallons but it is already thinned.
The best way to get a nice finish from a rattle can is to heat up the contents before you spray it. Drop a couple cans in a bucket of HOT water for ten minutes and the paint will flow much better, lay down better, and dry faster. |
Here's my bus after a Rustoleum rattle can paint job. You can see a little mistake on the windshield seal, just below the windshield wiper:
It takes a LOT of cans, but it's certainly cheap. If you go the rattle can route, definately go to WalMart and get one of the gun attachments for a rattle can. Makes it a lot easier on your fingers! And PLEASE recycle the cans! Our recycle center took them in their scrap metal bin.
I'm really happy with it. When I get chips I just clean and touch up the area.
I was wondering about a clear coat as well... anyone have any ideas? _________________ ----------
1978 Campmobile, 2000cc w/hydro lifters, dual Weber 44 IDF carbs (50 idle jets, 115 main jets), SVDA distributor w/Compufire. |
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4Doora Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2006 Posts: 1154 Location: Hudson, NH
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Rocknrod Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004 Posts: 2157 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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I've had terrible luck trying to clearcoat spray paint... but thats just me!
Renodbarb: A clay bar will take the overspray off of the rubber and glass. A window scraping blade held 90 degrees to it will get it off if its got a few coats on it. Lastly, theres a liquid detailers use called "Black Chrome" that makes rubber really shine which you may want after cleaning it up.  _________________ 1971 Westfalia with a high top.
http://71vwbus.blogspot.com/ - Pictures and words... Oh My! |
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vdubyah73 Samba Member

Joined: July 05, 2003 Posts: 2541 Location: somewhere in Texas, my house has wheels
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Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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My Bus painted with boat paint. it's a polyurethane with no additives. use the manufactures thinner. I used Interlux Brightside paint and sprayed with an HVLP. Paint/thinner ratios are a crap shoot, temp and humidity play a part. Doesn't take much thinner. maybe 5 or 10 %.
Bill _________________ burning down the house
73 bounty hunter, sold.
'77 transporter, junked had crotch rot.
Dubless, but have a CPR built stroker waiting for a new to me Beetle
'93 Fleetwood Bounder 34' |
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Alan Brase Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2004 Posts: 4570 Location: Cedar Falls, Iowa
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Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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agreendaya wrote: |
Boy, sure wish the body/paint forum people coulda told me this before I went out & bought a sprayer. I do believe it woulda been a bit more expensive to buy sufficient rattle cans, but whatever. Thanks again for the advice. |
I think you might be able to do a pretty nice job with that HVLP sprayer. But by using real automotive paint or industrial paint, it would be a lot easier. And more satisfactory end result.
It's a shame, there is always a lot of nice paint thrown away. I have about 200 gallons, mostly industrial machine paint, epoxies, urethanes and enamels that I rescued, now I'm not sure what to do with it!
Al _________________ Al Brase
Projects: 67 sunroof bug, 67 Porsche 912 Targa, 70 Westy
Dec 1955 Single Cab pickup WANT 15" BUS RIMS dated 8/55, thru 12/55
To New owners: 1969 doublecab, 1971 Dormobile
Vanagons:
80 P27 Westy JUL 1979, 3rd oldest known US
83 1.6TD Vanagon, 87 Wolfie Westy daily driver, swap meet home |
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njlunchbox Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2007 Posts: 82 Location: Concord, California
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:39 am Post subject: |
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That looks real good vdubyah73. Do you have any other photos? When was this done? I did mine with Rustoleum last spring and it came out good but I thought about using marine paint since I think it would protect the metal better and is a more durable paint. I live in a marine climate and want the best protection for my bus. |
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rccbusfreak Samba Member
Joined: July 18, 2004 Posts: 871 Location: The Sunshine State (get it?)
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 6:54 am Post subject: |
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So far I have painted the engine compartment, the rear and half of the roof with a polyurethane base paint made by Coronado called Rust Scat. I have found when you shoot outside do it on a day of very low humidity. You will get the maximum gloss out of the paint. Yep, dirt, bugs and runs are free.  _________________ 71 Westfalia
68 Transporter
71 Transporter parts bus (the bus that keeps on giving)
LudwigUSA |
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1977_L63H_P27 Samba Member

Joined: January 17, 2006 Posts: 2345 Location: Bristol, Tennessee
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 7:28 am Post subject: |
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I have checked with Sherwin-Williams, and they have an industrial epoxy that can be tinted to any color for about $40 a gallon. They can get it in a polyurethane as well. And now that I've seen the results on that Corvair... , I may be going in that direction. Peace! _________________
busdaddy wrote: |
...and try a few chubby ones until you find one you like.
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1977 Westfalia P27
you can't spell Volkswagen without SWAG
M-code Plate
Full Moon Bus Club |
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Runamuck Bus Samba Member

Joined: July 01, 2007 Posts: 197 Location: Western PA
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 10:19 am Post subject: |
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thanks agreendaya, it was sarcasm. my bad attempt to humor a splitty on a bay forum, won't do that again! |
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Foxx Uncle Meat

Joined: August 27, 2001 Posts: 4897 Location: at the computer,.......DUH!
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 11:12 am Post subject: |
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I just don't get it... there is affordable brands of real auto paint... why bother slapping some shit for wheelbarrows on there?
don't you give a crap about your shit?
are you that cheap that you can't do it right? prehaps vintage cars are not your bag?
you want to use stuff that even Rustoleum rep says you shouldn't do, and act like it's some kind of victory?
whatever dude.
why change your oil,.you can keep using the old oil. right?
http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_enamel_paint.html _________________ Frank
OG JHC
59 panel
Sarcasm is the body's natural defense against stupidity. i seem to use a lot. |
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agreendaya Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2006 Posts: 1313 Location: Winthrop, MA USA
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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I sometimes think of my bus as a 'practice' vehicle. It's not in the greatest shape to begin with. At all. I'm trying to get an idea of what to do and what not to do. With a college student's budget, and a very limited amount of time, rustoleum was simply the most accessible and easiest option for me. I have asked several times on the paint forum what my options are given my lack of money and time, and didn't get much response. I realize now that perhaps I should've asked here. I simply was not aware of all the options. I've heard of and seen many people having good results with rustoleum, even just using rollers, so I figured it would work for now, and be good practice. My plan for the bus, at least at this point, is to have fun with it now, keep it running and such, then probably restore it back to original sometime after I'm done with school.
And I'm not sure what the obsession with feces is, but yes I do give a "crap" about my "shit."  |
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Foxx Uncle Meat

Joined: August 27, 2001 Posts: 4897 Location: at the computer,.......DUH!
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:20 pm Post subject: |
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it's funny how many excuses people will use to justify doing the wrong thing.
you didn't get much response in the paint and body forum because most there are not looking for the cheap way out,.they are wanting to do it right.
spray paint is even more cheaper. why won't you do that?
is it about looks or being cheap? your willing to settle for a roller paint job but not willing to settle for a spray bomb paint job?
so you admit you do have standards but your bus is just not good enough to do it right?
why not just take it to Macco for a realy cheap paint job and save yourself that much more time ?
 _________________ Frank
OG JHC
59 panel
Sarcasm is the body's natural defense against stupidity. i seem to use a lot. |
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1977_L63H_P27 Samba Member

Joined: January 17, 2006 Posts: 2345 Location: Bristol, Tennessee
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:25 pm Post subject: |
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Foxx4086 JHC wrote: |
I just don't get it... there is affordable brands of real auto paint... why bother slapping some shit for wheelbarrows on there?
don't you give a crap about your shit?
are you that cheap that you can't do it right? prehaps vintage cars are not your bag?
you want to use stuff that even Rustoleum rep says you shouldn't do, and act like it's some kind of victory?
whatever dude.
why change your oil,.you can keep using the old oil. right?
http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_enamel_paint.html |
I want to say I DO care about my bus. But, I rescued it after sitting for more than 15 years in a field. After getting it home, I found out it had been hit in the rear some time back, and an inch or so of Bondo is what's behind the rear bumper. NOT exactly a candidate for a total resto. Hell, even if I wanted to, I couldn't spend the untold thousands it would take to get it back to factory fresh.
I'm glad you do though. And it's people like you doing the $10,000 restorations that will keep buses on the road for another 30 to 40 years. You should be glad that there are people like us out there, people with $10hr. jobs raising 3 kids, barely keeping our buses on the road. That'll make your bus worth more in the long run.
I don't harbor any ill will toward snobs that believe everyone can "do it right" just because they can. I do hope that it doesn't take a tragedy for some people to see that we're all doing the best that we can and that it's really all about sharing a love of vintage german steel. Just 'cause we show it different ways doesn't make my way wrong. Even tractor paint protects metal. Peace! _________________
busdaddy wrote: |
...and try a few chubby ones until you find one you like.
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1977 Westfalia P27
you can't spell Volkswagen without SWAG
M-code Plate
Full Moon Bus Club |
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Foxx Uncle Meat

Joined: August 27, 2001 Posts: 4897 Location: at the computer,.......DUH!
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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i'm not being a snob.
paint doesn't cost 10,000
i've done REAL auto paint jobs for under 200.
so the BS excuses don't wash.
3 kids?, i have 3 kids. so?
i'm not willing to settle for "aww fuck, this will work" BS
you want people to take bay window busses for being worth something insted of being the end of a joke, but you don't take your own busses seirously enough to break free of the punchline.
this thinking will only keep the "stinkfoot" name and ideals going for a long time and it will allways be
"who cares, it's just another bay window bus" .
this guys bus came from a field too
http://mysite.verizon.net/resp7ex0/vwbusphotoalbum/ _________________ Frank
OG JHC
59 panel
Sarcasm is the body's natural defense against stupidity. i seem to use a lot. |
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gmag69 Type2 Nutcase

Joined: January 13, 2006 Posts: 1941 Location: northwest PA
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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I spray bombed my blue bus to get it through cause I was going to redo it. I decided to get my Westy to replace it and I'm using Auto paint to repaint the spots that need it. Yes I have used Rustoleum paint to paint cars in the past and it doesn't hold up well like auto paint. It'll start chalking after while and look like ass. If it is a temp job to get by fine. If it's permanent thing no way never again. I bought PPG Omni paint to paint mine with. I know it is the low end paint but it's auto paint at least. It cost about $225 for everything to do it. That is actually cheap. You could even get Kirker paint for less if you can a place that sells it. It doesn't last long but it'll gt ya by till you can use a better paint. My one car was painted with Kirker paint and it finally started to fade after 7 yrs of being on the car. I'm not dogging anyone just showing that there are other low cost options out there.
Geno  _________________ Check out my Westy resto. thread.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=230285 |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 1:01 pm Post subject: |
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gmag69 wrote: |
I spray bombed my blue bus to get it through cause I was going to redo it. I decided to get my Westy to replace it and I'm using Auto paint to repaint the spots that need it. Yes I have used Rustoleum paint to paint cars in the past and it doesn't hold up well like auto paint. It'll start chalking after while and look like ass. If it is a temp job to get by fine. If it's permanent thing no way never again. I bought PPG Omni paint to paint mine with. I know it is the low end paint but it's auto paint at least. It cost about $225 for everything to do it. That is actually cheap. You could even get Kirker paint for less if you can a place that sells it. It doesn't last long but it'll gt ya by till you can use a better paint. My one car was painted with Kirker paint and it finally started to fade after 7 yrs of being on the car. I'm not dogging anyone just showing that there are other low cost options out there.
Geno  |
The other problem is you end up with a layer(s) of paint on the vehicle that are NOT compatible with any true automotive paint system and unless it is stripped completely off any primer/sealer/coatings you put on top of it are going to react and cause trouble down the road if you ( or anyone) ever does try and do it "right"
This is going to amount to a lot of prep time and or hassles and or a shitty job if someone does just spray over it at some point.
That to me is a biggest factor for not using mineral spirit or other non auto type paints. |
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vdubbie Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2006 Posts: 23 Location: wimauma fl
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 1:46 pm Post subject: paint |
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try midwestautopaint.com that were I got my paint 93.83 plus shipping for gallon paint thiner & hardner in vw colors good luck |
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gmag69 Type2 Nutcase

Joined: January 13, 2006 Posts: 1941 Location: northwest PA
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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keifernet wrote: |
The other problem is you end up with a layer(s) of paint on the vehicle that are NOT compatible with any true automotive paint system and unless it is stripped completely off any primer/sealer/coatings you put on top of it are going to react and cause trouble down the road if you ( or anyone) ever does try and do it "right"
This is going to amount to a lot of prep time and or hassles and or a shitty job if someone does just spray over it at some point.
That to me is a biggest factor for not using mineral spirit or other non auto type paints. |
I agree with you 100%. If I spray bomb anymore It is only in spots that I have fixed before I do my bodywork not the whole vehicle. That way I only have to strip it in small spots and not the whole thing. I took an adult integrated autobody class when I got out of high school. I was amazed at how much goes into bodywork besided slinging a little putty and paint. To people that do it for a living I tip my hat to you. I'd be starving if that was my bread and butter.  _________________ Check out my Westy resto. thread.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=230285 |
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fukengruvenoval Samba Member

Joined: December 07, 2004 Posts: 774 Location: OSHAWA, ONTARIO, CANADA
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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Everyone has a story of success using Rustoleum or Tremclad paint and it turning out o.k. I knew a guy (a crazy SOB) that would thin the paint with gasoline 50/50 after warming the paint up first on a hot plate. He'd then spray the concoction and get good results because it was flash pretty quickly compared to thinning with mineral spirits or varsol.
In my opinion, there is so much work involved with painting a vehicle (countless hours of prep, priming, sanding, etc.) why would you risk the quality of the job on a decision between $30 in material and $300 in material? Any automotive system will be an improvement over the other paints you mention.
If you value your time (and to do it right, it will take time) you will understand that the cost of materials is insignificant in the grand picture.
If you're not picky on colour, consider doing all the prep work at home, then taking it to a Maaco shop so they can blow in the colour. They buy their paint in bulk and can often paint a car for less than $500. If and only if you prep properly (remove the windows, trim, etc.) you can get a good looking result. You could take back the spray equipment you purchased, go this route, and you may wind up with a nice looking product at the end with a minimal outlay of cash.
Good luck! _________________ Check out my video series at www.youtube.com/midnightoilgarage |
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jmn176 Samba Member

Joined: October 04, 2007 Posts: 135 Location: sacramento
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 3:17 pm Post subject: paint |
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you can find nice auto paint single stage(no need for clear coat) for a good $ online. i did my freinds car out side no cover or booth, just want to be around 80f or so. i did all my engine tins in rattle cans they work good too. i found for the price i paid for rattle cans you can do a good spray in less time with real auto paint. |
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