Burley Swing Away Tire Carrier - Install, New developments.

[j_dirge]

Some of this repeats what was in the other thread. However the other thread had much noise in the first page
So.. Here we go...


The swing away tire carrier:

Description:

The Burley swing away tire carrier was designed to carry any sized Vanagon spare tire/wheel. The wheel mounts so that the carrier spreads loads across its frame structure without stressing any one mounting. Load is shared between 2 24” mounting flanges. The backing plate flanges is full length and copies the exterior flange mount (the one with the brackets)

When the carrier is open, load is spread over the length of those two brackets. When the carrier is latched closed, some load is transferred to the striker plate and it's backing plate.

The flange mount comes pre-drill with 8 ¼” holes. The holes are perfectly matched to those on the backing plate. These 8 bolts effectively sandwich the Vanagon sheet metal between the two flange mounts and adds the structural support on which the carrier swings.

The tire/wheel sits on an adjustable tube mount designed for preload such that vibration and rattling is virtually eliminated.

All ETs should fit. But if you have any doubt contact Burley Motorsports direct.

Mine are 37.. and fit perfectlyt.


The “kit”

1. Swing-away tire carrier rack with polyurethane bushings and steel sleeve inserts
2. Wheel mount (adjustable) with three studs and lug nuts
3. Mounting flange with hinge brackets
4. Mounting flange backing plate
5. Swing-away catch mechanism
6. Swing-away catch mechanism mount backing plate
7. Hardware package
a. 2 3”x1/2 “ bolts and nylock nuts
b. 1 2-1/2”x 3/8” wheel mount set bolt and nylock nut
c. 8 1”x 1/4” bolts
d. 8 slip-on backing nuts
e. 8 1/4” lock washers
8. Instructions

Tools required for installation:
A power drill, 1/4” and 3/8” bits.. don’t need much a cordless will do
10mm socket and/or box wrench
14mm socket and box wrench
7/16” socket and box wrench
A center punch (or sharpie) for marking hole centers.
Blue masking tape and/or double stick foam tape to hold things place.


The preparation

The primary mounting flange fits to the inside face of the rear hatch driver side pillar.
The matching backing plate mounts up from the inside of the body cavity of the sheet metal.

Access for the backing plate is from above, behind the plastic vent trim. Remove those two screws and the vent comes off easily. No plastic tabs to break.

The latch plate mounts to the tail-light sheet metal panel, just left of the license plate.

(pic?)

Inspected all mounting areas for dirt, grime, and rust.. Cleaned all mounting and backing plate areas. Lots of dust and crud built up in 22 yrs.
Treat for surface rust if necessary. I was lucky. No rust.
Touch up scratches to prevent rust later.


INSTALLATION

Mounting the flanges up.
The exterior flange:

Place the outside flange against the Vanagon body panel. The upper hinge bracket fits cleanly into the creases of the panel. You want this thing right down ON the sheetmetal.. formed to the shape of the body.. Press in firmly so you get the holes right on.

I used blue masking tap applied over the sheet metal to reduce risk of scratches or worse and a little foam tape on the backside to keep things from sliding around

Now is a good time to pull back the hatch weather stripping along the driver’s side to protect it from damage, too

Mark your holes.

I used a center punch to mark my holes.. and taped the flange in place to free up my hands. A Sharpie would also work.. but you want to get those marks centered and you don’t want the flange moving and screwing up alignment.

I drilled the top hole and placed a bolt thru it.. then checked all the marks to make sure they were still centered. Check! They were.

I took a deep breath and drilled all 8 ¼” holes.. VERY cautiously I might add.. as I am not at all used to drilling holes in my Westy..


The backing flange:

The backing flange is full length and access is tight down inside that body cavity. Burley provides these nifty sprung slip-on backing nuts for use on the backing flange. Attach the backing nuts as shown. There are 8 in all.
(I sprayed some black rustoleum over this flange which helped hold those clips in place)

Now I was ready to place the flanges and bolt them up.

This job can be done solo.. but it certainly does not hurt to have an extra set of hands for this part.

I started the top bolt and got a couple turns on it.

I checked that the backing plate was still properly positioned down inside the body cavity.. My camera verified that..

(see pic above showing the body cavity)

It all looked good and was relatively easy to get the remaining bolts started.
With the top bolt in.. I tried the middle one.. and its corresponding bolt inside the bracket area.. Then started the remaining bolts

(

If you find that alignment is off, or if the brackets shift, you can use a smaller phillips head screwdriver (or similar) inserted into a bolt hole to shift the two plates back into alignment. At one point I had two in there to hold things in line.. and as more bolts were started the eaisier the remaining ones were to work.

(needs a pic?)

Do not tighten bolts as you go. Leave only a few turns on so that you have the play necessary to get all the remaining bolts started.

Here’s a tip, though. If it’s a real @$%&^ to get the bolts all started or if the holes just aren’t lining up, its possible that your drilling is not perfect. But who’s perfect, right?
Do not despair! You can oval out holes in the sheet metal as necessary to give you some more working room. ¼” holes should be adequate, but where necessary drill over-size at 17/64ths or 9/32nds. If a couple of holes must be over-sized it will not affect the the carrier installation or its strength. And a bonus..the holes will be hidden when installation is complete. NO ONE will EVER know.

I had to oval out one hole. Sad. I am not perfect. Dammit.
OK.. I'm over it.

Once all bolts are started.. Work them down to snug, but do not tighten them just yet..,As you are spinning them down rotate thru all 8 bolts so that the flanges come together evenly and the inside flange does not catch on anything or hang up .

Take a break.

The hardest part is done!


Installing the wheel mount on the carrier.

Lay the spare down.. sidewall on the ground. Place the wheel mount plate with studs into the lug holes of the wheel.

Now rest the carrier over the mount tube so that the carrier sits down on the tires inner sidewall.

Mark where the edge of the carrier tube stops relative to the wheel mount tube.
I used blue tape for marking where the edge is..

Now this step is important!
Remove the carrier and mount from the tire. Measure back ¼” on the mount tube, such that the wheel mount will be ¼” CLOSER to the carrier.

This negative ¼” will create the “preload” mentioned earlier in the “product description”

Drill a 3/8” hole thru both tubes for the set bolt.

See ?
Pretty cool!
With lug nuts snugged down, the tire sidewall will press against the carrier tubes and this will eliminate rattling and vibration.


OK
Time to move on.

Here’s the big moment when it starts to come together.
Move the carrier into position by sliding the bushings into the hinge brackets.

Slide the two large bolts and spin on the nylocks

Don’t forget the “lock-open” pin.
I store it in place for use when carrier is swung open.



Installing the catch mechanism.

Important! At this step, the carrier should not have the tire and wheel in place.
You want the carrier empty and unloaded when placing the latch meachnism for marking holes.
And of course the hatch should be closed.


The catch mechanism assembly uses a backing plate much like the flanges. This helps spread loads more evenly through the tail-light body panel and provides a more solid structure.

As noted…
Swing the carrier in towards the Vanagon hatch (Take care not to swing it too far and damage your paint job!.. I wrapped a towel around the tubing.. just for good measure.)

Close the latch mechanisim over the carrier pin. Make sure it is in ALL the way in (2 clicks) and that the strut clears the nut/bolts of the latch.

Move the catch mechanism assembly against the tail light body panel. The bottom of the plate should sit approximately 3/8” above the lower crease in the. This leaves about 1/8” between the latch mechanism and the f/g bumper. And with steel bumpers there will be more room.

Mark and drill the 4 ¼” holes.


You’ll need to get to the backside to place the backing plate.. HA HA!.. I tried to slip it in behind the 2.1 Pressure Coolant reservoir.. Don’t waste your time.. unbolt the damn thing from its mount and just move it aside. Much less of a hassle. And that allows you to clean the sheet metal up.

Slide the backing plate into position and bolt it all up


Yer done!

Pretty nice unit… Dontcha think?

This is one of those buys where I saw the pieces as delivered and thought “OK those are nice welds”
But where this swing away carrier really impresses is after a week or two.. and when you have unlatched it a few dozen times and swung it open. Closed it.. When you begin to take it for granted.
And it still works flawlessly.

Thinking back on the install.. I was cautious.. One should be when drilling holes in their lovely Vannys, I guess.. But this unit is really well thought thru. Installation is not to be done when buzzed or when tempers are short. Or when kids are distracting you.
You want to take your time..Think it through at each step.. And you will be VERY pleased with the results..

I am off on a little 1000 miler this weekend.. Will report back.

Cheers,
The dirge

Comments and Questons are welcome..
_________________
-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.

-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5

[TIMMAGON]

I want that

[juanb]

Awesome writeup, thanks for doing it!

And congratulations on the carrier, it looks great. I wonder if he'll make one just a little bit longer, allowing for a jerrycan.

I have a friend with a welder and experience (he just finished restoring an awesome '71 Bronco), who offered to make a bumper/carrier with me. I'm still pondering which way to go with this. I might go with a self made bumper plus this carrier, or maybe we'll build both. Writeups like these help a lot.

j
_________________
1989 Westy AT, 2.2 GoWesty.
We drove it to Argentina: http://www.vanenvan.com

[srmpf]

looks great - but $700 for a tire carrier?

[purplepeopleeater]

Good write up.

Did you put any paint in the freshly drilled holes on the backing plates or some kinda sealent?


rusty crusty

[j_dirge]

Good point.

At a minimum, you will want to dab some paint around the freshly drilled holes.

The flange is semi-exposed to weather.. sitting outside the rear hatch gasket.. water will run down alongside and behind it.

So I am mulling a couple things over. One idea is to use marine bedding compound between the exterior flange and the vanagon sheet metal. That will completely seal any weather out from behind the flange. And is good for many yrs.
Due to the overlap and seam work in there, there will be some air gap.. and the bedding compound might be the best bet for "filling" it.

I used a vinyl sheet material under the latch mechanism plate.. It froms a gasket of sorts.

An easy fix is to run sealant around the top and down the sides.
Good quality marine grade.. 3M.. comes in black. You would not need much of a bead.

For the interior flange.. the one inside the body cavity.. probably the best treatment is to hit it generously with waxoyl. There is less exposure in there. But water will get in.. especially in winter driving. And on vans with AC, the hose drains in there.

Better safe than sorry.

Am planning on running it thru the summer. An AC unit is going in next year.. and during that time I plan to make a more permanent gasket or use the bedding compound.


Good comments.
Keep em coming!
_________________
-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.

-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5

[danfromsyr]

I can't install these on my 80 & 81 campers.. that have the metal upper grills, not the removeable plastic inserts.

but i'm not likely to drop $700 on a tire rack anyways..
these are a syncro toybox and they've no troubles..

nice looking item.
but I'd antiseize or protect the J nuts from future corrosion problems.
_________________

[Mick Ord]

Just received my Burley carrier2 days ago and am prepping for install this weekend, so great write up and THANKS alot !!!!

One quick question- i never got any instructions ?, when u drilled the hole in the tire carrier bracket to bolt it onto the carrier itself- does the kit come with that bolt ?

Thxs again
_________________
1991 Syncro Westy- 2.5 Suby
1989 Syncro Tristar ( sold)
1988 2wd Tristar- about to start resto/rebuild !!

[j_dirge]

[Franklinstower]

I agree, a passenger side carrier would be preferred especially for Westy's. So much weight is already on the drivers side!!!
_________________
'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug
YITB

[VisPacem]

Hello j__d

Thanks for the post. Great details and explanation. Great photos too. Not that I doubt Burley's word one second, but it IS really nice to have a third party/user's opinion.



** Yes, would be nicer on the passenger side ...... to me at least.
_________________
LG aka VisPacemPB, *The* party Pooper

No Regrets (Nothing to do with Vanagons)

[j_dirge]

You are welcome, VP.

So I am back from a quick trip to LA from San Francisco. 1000 miles, 3 days.

Tire carrier.. Solid. No rattles. No vibration.
70-75mph on HWY 5 most of the way. Big wind over Pacheco Pass (152 near Hollister) and over the Grapevine into Santa Clarita (lane changing wind gusts)... not to mention, plenty of truck lane driving.. Shook everything loose.. Felt like my fillings were gonna come out.
Damn! that lane is torn up on the Grapevine.

Bolts still tight. Never saw the tire move in the rear view.


And a funny little story.. come to the grinding traffic near LAX and a Hummer pulls alongside.. windows down.. driver gives me a "cool guy" nod (probably thinks I'm a syncro).. Anyway, he inches forward.. And I notice his tire carrier.. that factory jobber.. with tire/wheel bouncing around, hardware rattling. That Hummer rack is no lightweight junk.. (well maybe its junk) but I was feeling pretty smug about then.

$700? Thats fine by me, when the design works, the welds are beautiful, and it holds up to real use..



Pretty stoked on the thing. Now I am looking at ideas for security. Wondering if its necessary, even.
Reason I ask is that we had a catalytic converter stolen off a Toyota T100 4WD recently (my brother's).. Seems people will steal anything these days?
Anybody had a spare stolen?

Franklinstower, et al.. I have no added lean from driver's side mount. But I use Sensatrac load levelers in the rear.
Its easier to access the tailgate when parked on the street, since the rack swings away towards the street. But if people are really motivated towards a passenger side swing away.. Maybe email Burley and inquire. I know he has the matching flanges in the works for a passenger side carrier. If you get the comments into him early.. Maybe he can design the passenger side swing away to mount a tire if so desired?
_________________
-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.

-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5

[Mick Ord]

Just a quick question j dirge-

Instead of bolting the wheel mount bracket to the frame, would there be a problem with spot welding in place ????

Thxs
_________________
1991 Syncro Westy- 2.5 Suby
1989 Syncro Tristar ( sold)
1988 2wd Tristar- about to start resto/rebuild !!

[VisPacem]

[j_dirge]

[j_dirge]

Talking to Burley this last week... and I am looking to jumpstart the build for the passenger side rack.

Originally to be an accessory rack, some comments here will be folded in to the design. I.E. we discussed a tire mount for those who want to mount on the passenger side rather than.. or in addition to the driver side.

Burley says,

[burleymotorsports]

We are offering a samba discount price if we can get 5 orders , pricing is the same as what was mentioned above. This is an effort to try and make them affordable and still make enough to be worth while so we can stay in buss. For the second side we have decided to use a 2'' square receiver in the place where the tire mount would normally be. We are then going to offer different acc that can be used on it. Here are e few ideas we have , tire mount , for those tat want 2 tires , shelf that will hold gas 1 or 2 jerry cans or could be used for a tool box. Please let us know what you would want on yours. Thanks again Burley my p.mail is [email protected]
_________________
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[Jon_slider]

the way this swing holds open is similar to my gary lee in that it goes past 90 degrees. I suggest putting the stop at 90 degrees so that it can be left open and still swing the hatch open, without blocking someone parked on your driver side.

fwiw, the wisdom of putting the swing on the driver side is supposed to be the ease of access to the rear hatch from the sliding door side, without having to walk around the tire.

However, I agree it makes more sense to put the tire on the passenger side, especially with a westy, and especially with big heavy tires, to balance the weight.

an idea for an accessory rack, a tray that holds a coleman stove in cooking position so you can bbq on the swing.

[noganav]

Another vote for 90 degree opening.

The 2" hitch reciever is a fantastic idea. It would be cool if both sides had that and then develop a tire mount and accessories for the 2" receiver. Let folks decide on their own what to put where.

A highlift and some jerry cans seems reasonable, but with the 2" receivers one could even imagine a bike rack mounted on there.

Very cool product. I'll be interested in a set once I get some bigger tires.

[edgood1]