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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't recall ever hearing of a split Type 3 oil cooler Here? Don't buy parts first. Take it apart first and see what you Really need!
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
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JaxDog
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 11:49 am    Post subject: Re: Oil Cooler Still Leaking Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
This is why I suggested getting a complete gasket kit too. Inside it, you'll find the 2 thin 8mm oil cooler seals that you're looking for. It won't have the spacers, but it will have the seals. This is ok, as you really don't need them to get them to seal correctly. In fact Russ told (and showed) me what he did with the spacers, he just put them on under the nuts at the top of the cooler. The bolts point up from the cylinders, so if you lose a nut, the bolt won't fall out, as this is how the factory installed them. If your bolts pass thru the cooler, and the nuts attach at the case, then someone forgot to install them when the engine was being rebuilt.

Sounds like you had a good day wrenching then. Yes, empi is now a shadow of it's former self, and basically means crap these days. Shocked

The brakes will probably go easier than the oil cooler job went. Wink


Thanks for the clarification Bob. THe complete gasket kit does not arrive until this Thursday. ISP West apprently delivers via camel.

Mike, I am with you. I believe that it is likely a seal problem as flow has increased. I would think that a failed/cracked unit would leak consistently or at the same rate over time.

I'll yank it again once I have orginals in hand. Looking forward to bringing this to closure to see if there any other leaks. Laughing
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JaxDog
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:14 pm    Post subject: Oil Cooler Seals still leaking Reply with quote

Pulled the oil cooler yet again today after work. Absolutely sure I installed the correct seals. Checked all mounting surfaces to ensure that they were spotless. Put it back together again. Bolts torqued at 6lbs.

Fired it up. No leaks. Bumped the throttle a number of times, never excessively and let it run for 5 minutes. 2 Teaspoon of oil on top of the block yet again. Clearly much improved but it is still leaking and I hate leaks of any kind.

I dont know what else to do other than sling the oil cooler in the trash and try another one.

If anyone has any ideas, I am wide open to any suggestions, including but not limited to, sacrificing a dead chicken. Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know it's not recommended....but . I use permatex spray a gasket on my seals after blowing cooler seals twice.
I spray one side and tape them down onto the block for a couple hours and then add the cooler and torque it down.
No leaks from any of my oil coolers.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:00 am    Post subject: Had a real mechanic take a look Reply with quote

I took the day off today to get together with Mousey to go over the brakes. We replaced the front brake hoses and pads.

Found out that inner and outer tie rod ends are fried, as is the steering damp. Nothing surprising. Will try and run this stuff down tonight and might as well do the front bearings while it's torn apart.

Setting aside the fact that a rear wheel lug was screwed in too tight and snatch the left emergency brake bar off of the pads, I ran in to a problem.

Looked up the part number fro rear brakes. Both stores agreed that brake # 268 pads are correct. I even verified the crossover using the VW part number out of the Bentley.

When we opened the box, he was the problem:

Brakes on car. Note width of pad shoe where bar sits in slot just below the cylinder, right side.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Look how narrow the new ones are at the same point on the shoe:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Has anyone run in to this in the past?

Now, I got to poke around a little while there and was granted permission to dig around a bit. After finding a front hood in excellent condition, I had high hopes. As i got down on my hands and knees I spied this little gem. Sorry about the focus but it was very dark:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Was looking for another motor so I could take my time building one and scored big!

I continued poking around finding type 3 bits here and there, when I struck potential pay dirt yet again ! A NOS driver's side door still in packaging!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I haven't verified fit yet but all measurements that I took, worked. I need to do some homework on it yet, but wow ! Can anyone tell me which doors are interchangable for '66?

Weather stripping came in for doors, trunk and front compartment so I'll work on that tomorrow.

On an icky note (icky is a tehnical term), we did identify some blow by on the right side jugs. When the oil cooler gets here, we'll pull the tins and retorque the heads to see if that solves the problem. If not, looks like I'll be working on the new/old engine.

Really having a good time with the nasty Fasty !
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:58 am    Post subject: Re: Had a real mechanic take a look Reply with quote

JaxDog wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



What the heck is the grey blob on the right shoe?
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

'66 door will not have a hole for the lock push/pull knob. Could have either 2 or 3 bolt hinges.

Try W1K1's permatex spray before trying Another oil cooler!

Might be easiest to have your old brake shoes relined.
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two 57 oval ragtops sold
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JaxDog
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil, no idea what the grey glob is. Rule number 1 with a 45 year old car is, "Don't poke anything!" Laughing

Mike, door is a 2 screw hinge and so is the car. I did see the hole for the lock on the sill which is not period correct. Still, my driver's door would require about 40 hours worth of metal work to make right. It's a mess. This door is so reasonably priced that it may be difficult to pass.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know the # for the brake shoes But the Super beetle front shoes are what they use or interchange with. They also use the Super beetle front wheel cylinders for the type 3 the shoes and the wheel cylinders have the same offset as Super beetles.

As far as the doors, 61-66 Notch and Squareback 3 bolt hing. All fast back had 2 bolt hing as far as I know(but the hing pin can be removed and inter changed). 67 one year only but can be used just weld up the pull knob hole. 68 and later, but i don't know the idiosyncrasies about them.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you FlyingLow for the door info!

We did compare surrent shoes on vehicle to a Super Beetle shoe and the SB shoe was more narrow.

As I am certain that you all know, when you have a vehicle that has been modified, it can be tough to tell what is stock and what is not, expecially being new to VW's.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I had worked at Bill and Steve's in the late 80's The super beetle front shoe's were what was sold for 64 and later type 3 rear. Same dimensions. Or type 3 rears for super fronts due to the fact that the shoes accommodated to E- brake arm's. Before I put the disc's on the rear of my fastback I had put new super beetle shoes and wheel cylinders on.

I was at a VW shop out here in Vegas trying to get wheel cylinders for my Fastback and they could only see what was on the computer, they didnt have any cross references. Like FYI a super beetle front windshield seal is the same or will work as a fastback rear window seal. also 67 type 3 door locks have a 111 number on them which are a bug part or door lock.

Some shops are primarily Bug or Bus and don't have a clue about what will work for a type 3's.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Had a real mechanic take a look Reply with quote

JaxDog wrote:
I took the day off today to get together with Mousey to go over the brakes. We replaced the front brake hoses and pads.

Looked up the part number fro rear brakes. Both stores agreed that brake # 268 pads are correct. I even verified the crossover using the VW part number out of the Bentley.
Look how narrow the new ones are at the same point on the shoe:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I continued poking around finding type 3 bits here and there, when I struck potential pay dirt yet again ! A NOS driver's side door still in packaging!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I haven't verified fit yet but all measurements that I took, worked. I need to do some homework on it yet, but wow ! Can anyone tell me which doors are interchangable for '66?

Weather stripping came in for doors, trunk and front compartment so I'll work on that tomorrow.
Really having a good time with the nasty Fasty !


The new brake shoes look correct. Are both sets (new and old) 45mm wide? They're supposed to be, is why I'm asking. Don't know what was put on it before. Rolling Eyes Were the drums still 2 piece? IE there being 2 small allen headed screws holding the drum onto the hub? If not, someone has either swapped the drums out with something else, or the drums were replaced.

As for the door, the parts book calls it out as fitting to chassis number 221 974, and from 221 975 to 317 500 000, which is the end of the 67 model year. It also fits 311-314, 315, 317, 361-368 body styles. I hope this helps.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 3:14 am    Post subject: Rear Brake Shoe Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bob, thanks so much for the info on the door! I have got to run down one of those parts books. I don't ever see them for sale so they must be tough.

You may be on to something with the rear drums being changed. I know that the motor was worked on and that heads were changed to dual ports. THere are also newer after-market CV boots on the car in fire engine red.

The width for old and new pads/shows was identical for the braking surface. The depth of the shoe itself (measuring at red line above) is the issue. The new shoes are much shorter here so they dont make proper contact with the cylinder or push bar.

As info, the Super Beetle shoes were identical to the base of the current brakes on the car but were more narrow.

If I have learned anything this past week, I now have a crystal clear understanding of why so many people preach buying a bone stock car. I now chase 66 parts but also watch for certain 67 parts due to the 12v conversion. In addition, we have a mystery set of rear drums on the back of the car.

With all of this, I'm going with that door. The only difference I see is a slight swelling at the point where the door lock pin comes through at the sill of the door. While I hate swapping out the orginal door (and hood), it saves enough money for half of a proper engine rebuild.

I am not heading for the darkside nor do I want to move further away from the stock look and feel of the vehicle; however, the depth and breadth of our disposible income does place certain limitations. I can live with the new door.

Finally, I will rip the oil cooler out one more time apply Permatex per the instructions. If it continues to leak, I reserve the right to apply the BFH. It won't correct the problem but will surely make me feel better.

Oh, almost forgot, we did run in to an interesting felony. All wheels drums have those after market chrome nuts and studs. One of those studs was seated so deeply that it snatched the emergency brake actuator arm (for lack of a better term) off of the drum. Pretty dangerous situation. These will all be going in the trash and I'll return the car to stock lug nuts.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:44 am    Post subject: Re: Rear Brake Shoe Reply with quote

JaxDog wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bob, thanks so much for the info on the door! I have got to run down one of those parts books. I don't ever see them for sale so they must be tough.

You may be on to something with the rear drums being changed. I know that the motor was worked on and that heads were changed to dual ports. THere are also newer after-market CV boots on the car in fire engine red.

The width for old and new pads/shows was identical for the braking surface. The depth of the shoe itself (measuring at red line above) is the issue. The new shoes are much shorter here so they dont make proper contact with the cylinder or push bar.

As info, the Super Beetle shoes were identical to the base of the current brakes on the car but were more narrow.

If I have learned anything this past week, I now have a crystal clear understanding of why so many people preach buying a bone stock car. I now chase 66 parts but also watch for certain 67 parts due to the 12v conversion. In addition, we have a mystery set of rear drums on the back of the car.

With all of this, I'm going with that door. The only difference I see is a slight swelling at the point where the door lock pin comes through at the sill of the door. While I hate swapping out the orginal door (and hood), it saves enough money for half of a proper engine rebuild.

I am not heading for the darkside nor do I want to move further away from the stock look and feel of the vehicle; however, the depth and breadth of our disposible income does place certain limitations. I can live with the new door.

Finally, I will rip the oil cooler out one more time apply Permatex per the instructions. If it continues to leak, I reserve the right to apply the BFH. It won't correct the problem but will surely make me feel better.

Oh, almost forgot, we did run in to an interesting felony. All wheels drums have those after market chrome nuts and studs. One of those studs was seated so deeply that it snatched the emergency brake actuator arm (for lack of a better term) off of the drum. Pretty dangerous situation. These will all be going in the trash and I'll return the car to stock lug nuts.


CAUTION: If that door ia a '67, it will have a hole for the inside lock plunger, which '66 didn't have. Also, if I recall correctly, '67 was a 'one year only wonder' for outside door handles- which means your '66 ones may not work.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:51 am    Post subject: Re: Rear Brake Shoe Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
JaxDog wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bob, thanks so much for the info on the door! I have got to run down one of those parts books. I don't ever see them for sale so they must be tough.

You may be on to something with the rear drums being changed. I know that the motor was worked on and that heads were changed to dual ports. THere are also newer after-market CV boots on the car in fire engine red.

The width for old and new pads/shows was identical for the braking surface. The depth of the shoe itself (measuring at red line above) is the issue. The new shoes are much shorter here so they dont make proper contact with the cylinder or push bar.

As info, the Super Beetle shoes were identical to the base of the current brakes on the car but were more narrow.

If I have learned anything this past week, I now have a crystal clear understanding of why so many people preach buying a bone stock car. I now chase 66 parts but also watch for certain 67 parts due to the 12v conversion. In addition, we have a mystery set of rear drums on the back of the car.

With all of this, I'm going with that door. The only difference I see is a slight swelling at the point where the door lock pin comes through at the sill of the door. While I hate swapping out the orginal door (and hood), it saves enough money for half of a proper engine rebuild.

I am not heading for the darkside nor do I want to move further away from the stock look and feel of the vehicle; however, the depth and breadth of our disposible income does place certain limitations. I can live with the new door.

Finally, I will rip the oil cooler out one more time apply Permatex per the instructions. If it continues to leak, I reserve the right to apply the BFH. It won't correct the problem but will surely make me feel better.

Oh, almost forgot, we did run in to an interesting felony. All wheels drums have those after market chrome nuts and studs. One of those studs was seated so deeply that it snatched the emergency brake actuator arm (for lack of a better term) off of the drum. Pretty dangerous situation. These will all be going in the trash and I'll return the car to stock lug nuts.


CAUTION: If that door ia a '67, it will have a hole for the inside lock plunger, which '66 didn't have. Also, if I recall correctly, '67 was a 'one year only wonder' for outside door handles- which means your '66 ones may not work.


Hit up Fisher and get the right ones:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1156501

I think they'll ship Greyhound.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:34 am    Post subject: Re: Rear Brake Shoe Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
JaxDog wrote:
[img]
Bob, thanks so much for the info on the door! I have got to run down one of those parts books. I don't ever see them for sale so they must be tough.

If I have learned anything this past week, I now have a crystal clear understanding of why so many people preach buying a bone stock car. I now chase 66 parts but also watch for certain 67 parts due to the 12v conversion. In addition, we have a mystery set of rear drums on the back of the car.


Hit up Fisher and get the right ones.


Mike would probably have the correct rear brake parts you need as well. The nice thing about owning a 66, is that the rear brake parts were used from then until the end of production in 73.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike has been trying to help me with some things. Unfortunately I have had to spend money like a sailor the last week or so. Throwing another grand on the fire will surely have my wife flying all over the house on her broom

I'll try and cut on a deal on the doors and maybe the heater channels for now, especially until we identify if the blow-by issue is resolved via re-torquing the heads, or it's motor rebuild time.

I swear that I have flushed less money down the toilet running amuck in Vegas! It's hell being in love with this car Laughing
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JaxDog wrote:
Mike has been trying to help me with some things. Unfortunately I have had to spend money like a sailor the last week or so. Throwing another grand on the fire will surely have my wife flying all over the house on her broom

I'll try and cut on a deal on the doors and maybe the heater channels for now, especially until we identify if the blow-by issue is resolved via re-torquing the heads, or it's motor rebuild time.

I swear that I have flushed less money down the toilet running amuck in Vegas! It's hell being in love with this car Laughing


Hide the broom. Problem solved. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JaxDog wrote:
Mike has been trying to help me with some things. Unfortunately I have had to spend money like a sailor the last week or so. Throwing another grand on the fire will surely have my wife flying all over the house on her broom

I swear that I have flushed less money down the toilet running amuck in Vegas! It's hell being in love with this car Laughing


Well, that's the draw back to trying to bring a 40+ year old car back to life. I know, I'm still working on my 64 T-34, and T-34 parts are 3 times as expensive as regular T-3 parts. Shocked At this point, I've lost count how much money I've thrown at my T-34, and I know I've still got about 2K+ more to throw at it. Shocked The worst part, is that I haven't even driven it yet, and I've been working on it for over a year now.
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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Tram wrote:
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram, hiding the broom would only bring additional wrath, although she did putt Gertie around last night and cracked up the whole time. She clearly "gets it" although she has already decreed that the next car will be a 66 Type 1 for her.

She has been awesome. We talked about about the car extensively for a couple of days prior to purchase and that in spite of our best laid plans, things could go pear-shaped pretty quick.

We are still trying to get her drivable/safe in all her ghettoness. No surprise that we have had to spend way more money to do so than originally anticipated.

We also had to make some tough choices. As an example, the car leaks horribly. Since she is not garaged at this time, we elected to purchase all window, door, and compartment seals. We also know know that those seals may become damaged when pulling them back out during resto.

Bottom line is that we knew what it was going to cost (or close enough) to make her right or closer to right. We did not aniticipate pouring a ton of money in to her immediately.

Bob, I can't imagine what your parts run. We had talked about restoring an old car but knew we had to choose carefully due to resto costs. Thanks to all of you here, I know that Type 3's had lots of NLA stuff but nothing like trying to restore your car or a 356.

The hardest part about owning a Type 3 is the constant battle of seeing a part come up for sale that you know you will need at some point in the future and then trying to determine if you should eat Mac N Cheese for a few weeks, purchase the part and then stash it, or that you may be able to find another down the road. It's tricky business, especially when you are new to Type 3's and just don't have the history of chasing parts in the past.

Finally Bob, you guys that buy a car without ever driving it prior to resto have the toughest time of all. I at least get to drive this a bit and that always reminds me that what we all go through for these cars is clearly worth it.

Well, off to cuss and swear as I try to understand and find all the tie rod ends, steering damp. and that stupid grommet that I am certain no one has carried in 20 years.

Thanks again to all of you working so hard to help me. Not sure how I'll ever re-pay you guys.
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66 Fasty - Total noob but trying to learn as fast I can.
The Dirty Gertie Adventure http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466960
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