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richparker
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian wrote:
I understand the theory, but in all practicality wouldn't you really only need this if you don't have the correct oil weight for the season?


Brian wrote:
Rich, good thing I didn't buy it. I was very close to doing it too Wink

I am extremely curious to see how it mounts. I want to find one to have in dire cases. so I'm watching this Popcorn


Out of curiosity, what made you change your mind?
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dipstick heater
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing I learned from boy scouts was 'be prepared.' I'm not prepping for a nuclear holocaust; but maybe trips to the snow and I don't wanna get stuck.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Although I never drive my bus in the winter, (no heat at all), I start it up at least every three weeks to get it to operating temperature...I'm using 5W-20 dinosaur motor oil, and I have no trouble getting it to fire up during extremely cold weather...I wait for a sunny day with little or no wind, and that does make a difference...The engine is a twin carb 2.0L...The only problem is noisy lifters for a minute or so...I'm not using any sort of engine pre heat...It stays outside under a carport and has a full cover over it.
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian wrote:
One thing I learned from boy scouts was 'be prepared.' I'm not prepping for a nuclear holocaust; but maybe trips to the snow and I don't wanna get stuck.


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=583885&highlight=chaining

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I seem to recall buying a block heater timer at Home Depot a few years ago, it had a pretty substantial load rating IIRC.

You guys have looked in the classifieds....right? http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?...ton=Search

Regarding Tom's post about the inefficiency of the whole element heating up I don't think it does, this one looks used and it appears only the part on the sump plate turned blue:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm having a difficult time picturing how these are installed. Does anyone have a picture, or can describe it to me?

edit:
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This ad kind of shows what one looks like inside.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1588733
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It seems there are steel clips that bolt under 3 of the sump plate nuts and have ears that stick out the sides and hold the heater up against your engine (which is not included Razz ), looks like the clips have a top hat profile.
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
It seems there are steel clips that bolt under 3 of the sump plate nuts and have ears that stick out the sides and hold the heater up against your engine (which is not included Razz ), looks like the clips have a top hat profile.


You got it right about the clips and key words are "hold the heater up against your engine ... " With the other heater, the coils float around inside the cover and the whole long arm seems to be part of the heating element and is exposed to ambient temperatures and wind. You could be correct about the arms not turning blue, but that could also be because they were exposed and didn't get hot while warming up the air. I'll at least stick with, being held against the engine, as a better design.

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richparker
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
It seems there are steel clips that bolt under 3 of the sump plate nuts and have ears that stick out the sides and hold the heater up against your engine (which is not included Razz ), looks like the clips have a top hat profile.


This is correct BD.

I did not look in the classifieds, but the ebay one is NOS and cheaper then the ones you posted. Thanks for the tip on the HD timer.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And just to add to the confusion, how about modern silicone pad style heaters?, it'd be a biotch to glue to the finned bottom of the case but may work on the sides of the sump or even on top of the case if you could find one the right size: http://www.mcfarlane-aviation.com/Products/?CategoryID=128
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24100-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8VL3O
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richparker
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought about those. I've seen those on a good amount of trucks. I thought that sticking something like this to the engine might hurt cooling. I understand it's winter and it's not gonna get that hot, but still.

A small one on each intake of the dual carbs would be nice.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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richparker
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's good stuff, Tcash!
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
It seems there are steel clips that bolt under 3 of the sump plate nuts and have ears that stick out the sides and hold the heater up against your engine (which is not included Razz ), looks like the clips have a top hat profile.


About 4 years ago I bought a vintage.....in a box just like that shown....Kats model VW-16. It looks like that but installs differently. It has a sheat metal sheath that runs halfway down the stem. It has an angle iron section that stands up and has two bolt holes that correspond to case nuts. So you bolt it on and it stays on and is in contact with the sump plate. 150 watts. Ray
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recieved the Kats VW-15 oil sump heater yesterday. The box was a little ratty looking but the heater was indeed NOS. It took me around a 1/2 hour to install it with many beer sippin breaks. I was able to zip tie it nicely and make it look clean. I found a plastic cover for the plug ends in the garage. I used wire conduit on the exposed cord under bus to keep it out of the elements, as much as it could be.

The cast on the element was not the best. I went ahead and filed down the rough edges so everything would fit nicely together. I guess I'll see how it works on Monday morning.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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I also took the time and cleaned the air filters with the K&N air cleaner recharger.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

neat. hows it working for you?
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What would be cool Rich is if you could shoot your sump plate area with a laser temp gauge after it's been plugged in for a while. Maybe even pull the dipstick out as well and shoot it too. It would be interesting to know that it's say 30 degrees outside and my sump and dipstick read this temp with it plugged in.
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Last edited by wcfvw69 on Sat Nov 22, 2014 4:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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richparker
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
What would be cool RICHIE is if you could shoot your sump plate area with a laser temp gauge after it's been plugged in for a while. Maybe even pull the dipstick out as well and shoot it too. It would be interesting to know that it's say 30 degrees outside and my sump and dipstick read this temp with it plugged in.


I can do that. I'll try to do that several days to get a good trend.[/b]
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