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MarkWard
Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 18907
Location: Retired South Florida
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 Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 11:36 am Post subject: |
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| matt94gt wrote: |
You guys are awesome thanks for all the help.
As per putting in a disconnect between the inverter and battery, is that necessary if the inverter has a power switch?
Once I get all my stuff together ill be sure to document the setup etc for others. |
When I would connect power to my Xantrex invertor, it would arch pretty good. I believe there is a capacitor or something that powers up. That would happen even when it was off. |
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dobryan
Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006
Posts: 17209
Location: Brookeville, MD
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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:55 pm Post subject: Wire Questions |
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Hey all so Im getting ready to wire up my Blue Sea box, and wondering what size wires you guys use TO the box and from the box to your accessories?
I was thinking 8-1010GA from battery to the box, and 10-12GA from the box to my accessories (led lights, ARP fridge) and power ports etc.
Now can I use stranded speaker wire? As I used to be a big car audio guy and I have lots of high quality 4-10GA speaker wire I would rather use up for some bits and pieces.
Im running 0GA to my inverter. I dont mind spending more for thicker 
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72' Sunroof Bus - Kansas Beige
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-21257.htm
Build thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7257521 |
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Freshdub
Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2015
Posts: 47
Location: Calgary, ab
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| Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:17 pm Post subject: |
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Just one thing I came across while planning out my aux battery/fuse panel that I overlooked was make sure to put a fuse between the battery and aux fuse panel. 6g wire needs an 80a inline and 4g needs 125a. I personally went with an ANL fuse style holder, but AGU will work as well. I'm sure 8g is fine, but I personally went with 6g just to make sure everything is getting all the juice it needs.
12 should be fine for almost all accessories powered off the panel. I think 14 is ok, but that one extra step up is good piece of mind. 10g is total overkill for things like LED lights
I'm a big newbie, but just some things I've come across from the board! |
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Aerosport
Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2014
Posts: 67
Location: LV,NV
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| Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:27 pm Post subject: Foldable Solar Panels |
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Check out the foldable solar panels by Powerfilm, they are some of the most efficient on the market
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'87 Westy GL - "Stanagon", 2wd WBX 4 speed
15" Rhein alloys, GW 1.5" lift springs & Fox shocks |
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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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kamzcab86
Samba Moderator
Joined: July 26, 2008
Posts: 8515
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 10:37 pm Post subject: Re: Wire Questions |
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| matt94gt wrote: |
Hey all so Im getting ready to wire up my Blue Sea box, and wondering what size wires you guys use TO the box and from the box to your accessories?
I was thinking 8-1010GA from battery to the box, and 10-12GA from the box to my accessories (led lights, ARP fridge) and power ports etc. |
I used 8 gauge from the battery to the Blue Seas. But I'm not powering a whole lot of stuff.
My ARB fridge came with wiring (it's 16 gauge, IIRC); I simply whacked off the 12V connector and installed spade connectors (if you go this route, unscrew the socket plug and mark which wire is + and - before cutting it off). To hardwire the ARB, ARB suggests a minimum of 10 gauge with a 15 amp fuse between the ARB wires and the battery (so, my ARB is going to the Blue Seas with a 15 amp fuse, which is powered via an 8 gauge wire). It's been on a couple trips now with zero issues.
My LED fixtures came with wiring... and they're nowhere near being 10 gauge.
Speaker wire... can't say, as I've never used it.
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1986 Cabriolet: www.Cabby-Info.com
 1990 Vanagon Westfalia: Old Blue's Blog
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"Real knowledge is to know the extent of one's ignorance." - 孔子 |
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thatvwbusguy
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2007
Posts: 1712
Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:52 am Post subject: |
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The term "speaker wire" can mean a lot of different things.
It is not uncommon for car audio "speaker wire" to be copper covered aluminum (CCA) wire as opposed to 100% copper (sometime labeled OFC for "oxygen free copper). Since aluminum is cheaper than copper, you can buy heavier gauge wire in CCA at a much lower cost than high quality copper wire. Many people in the car audio scene preach the "bigger is better" philosophy, with no regard for the material that their wires are made of. In general terms, a pure copper wire can safely carry the same amount of current as a CCA wire one gauge larger. In other words:
10AWG CCA = 12AWG Copper
8AWG CCA = 10AWG Copper
6AWG CCA = 8AWG Copper
Whenever I purchase wire from a new supplier, I measure the diameter of the wire and compare it to American Wire Gauge specs. It is very common for "car audio wire" to have a significantly undersized conductor and a very thick insulation jacket to make it look more substantial than it really is.
Other important considerations for power wires for automotive use include:
Abrasion resistance of insulating jacket
Maximum operating temperature of the insulating jacket
Resistance to oils and solvents found in the automotive environment
The supply wire to your fuse block needs to be large enough to carry the total load of the circuits powered from the fuse block. To determine this, you need to add up the wattage of all of the accessories you will be using and divide that number by 12 (Amps = Watts / Volts). Alternatively, you can wire the fuse block to support the maximum rated capacity, which is 100A in this case. The minimum recommended wire size for 100A would be 6AWG of high quality copper wire.
Be sure to add a fuse or circuit breaker as close to the battery positive post as possible. A protective covering like corrugated plastic loom is also a good idea on wires that will be carrying a lot of current.
The wires from the fuse block to your accessories should be sized according to an ampacity chart as well. In general, I use the following as rough guidelines:
0-5A - 18AWG
5-10A - 16AWG
10-15A - 14AWG
15-20A - 12AWG
20-30A - 10AWG
If you decide to purchase one of the Renogy 100W solar kits, be sure to get one with a negative ground charge controller. The lower priced kits come with a positive ground controller that is aimed more at small stand alone battery systems than automotive/RV use.
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Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion. |
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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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| Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:16 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the help! When I got speaker wire back in the day I spent good money for non CCA and actual gauge not the cheaper stuff with thick jackets measuring the right weight. So I think ill use 4GA to go to the block from the battery.
So I need a fuse between the Blue Sea Block and the Battery? I didn't know that. Now for amperage I guess I would get one just slightly higher than the total amperage after I get that wired up and figure out the fuses to put in the Blue Sea Block.
For instance once I have all my accessories wired to the block, and I have calculated the fuses for those accessories and put them in the block, I could get an inline fuse with a slightly higher amperage between the block and the battery?
_________________
72' Sunroof Bus - Kansas Beige
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-21257.htm
Build thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7257521 |
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thatvwbusguy
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2007
Posts: 1712
Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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Yes. You can either add all of the loads up and then go up to the next available fuse size (as long as it is lower than the maximum rated capacity) or just install a 100A fuse. The Blue Sea Systems fuse block is rated for 100A and the 4AWG copper wire will cary more than 100A safely.
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Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion. |
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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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| Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:18 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks. And to calculate fuse size for accessories (to put in the blue seas box) if it doesn't note it for the accessory I can figure that out by the max wattage and 12v but keys say I have a total of 10a draw should I just bump it up to the next fuse size as well so say a 15A fuse?
As well for power ports is there a suggested fuse size or should I calculate it based on the highest power device I'll be plugging into it?
Thanks again. And I'll be sure to take pics so I can document it all later as I think this is and will be a popular setup.
_________________
72' Sunroof Bus - Kansas Beige
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-21257.htm
Build thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7257521 |
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thatvwbusguy
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2007
Posts: 1712
Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 4:56 am Post subject: |
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If you calculate a 10A draw, just go with a 10A fuse and see how it goes. Fuses are cheap and easy to replace. As long as the wire to the consumer handle 15A, there is no reason that you can't use a 15A fuse if the 10A blows.
12V sockets are usually rated at 10A or 15A. Never exceed the rating on these sockets, as they tend to run hot when run at the upper end of the rated capacity. The Blue Sea Systems 1011 socket is the best I have found and the only one I recommend.
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Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion. |
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djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32989
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:45 am Post subject: |
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| thatvwbusguy wrote: |
If you calculate a 10A draw, just go with a 10A fuse and see how it goes. Fuses are cheap and easy to replace. As long as the wire to the consumer handle 15A, there is no reason that you can't use a 15A fuse if the 10A blows.
12V sockets are usually rated at 10A or 15A. Never exceed the rating on these sockets, as they tend to run hot when run at the upper end of the rated capacity. The Blue Sea Systems 1011 socket is the best I have found and the only one I recommend. |
You recommend the BluenSea Systems 1011 dash plug........
For 12 volt units that you cannot afford to have lose power to such as an electric Cooler..... Do you recommend switching the factory plug for the Blue Sea 1010 male plug?
These apparently twist lock together so vehicle (boat) vibration does not cause a disconnect.
Dave
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert |
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thatvwbusguy
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2007
Posts: 1712
Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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| Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:16 am Post subject: |
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I would definitely add one to the dash if you have had any trouble with the stock socket.
If I was counting on an electric cooler to keep my food safe, I would probably go for something more secure than the friction fit of a 12V socket connection. A set of Anderson Power Poles inside a splash boot seems like a great solution: http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-accessories/moisture-proof-splash-boot.html
If you have no choice but to use the dash socket to power something critical, the Blue Sea Systems 1011 socket and 1010 plug are the best you can get.
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Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
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matt94gt
Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2014
Posts: 245
Location: Victoria BC, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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| thatvwbusguy wrote: |
I would definitely add one to the dash if you have had any trouble with the stock socket.
If I was counting on an electric cooler to keep my food safe, I would probably go for something more secure than the friction fit of a 12V socket connection. A set of Anderson Power Poles inside a splash boot seems like a great solution: http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-accessories/moisture-proof-splash-boot.html
If you have no choice but to use the dash socket to power something critical, the Blue Sea Systems 1011 socket and 1010 plug are the best you can get. |
So your saying for my ARB fridge/cooler not to run it constantly with a Blue Seas power port? That was my plan, but I could snip off the 12V plug on the ARB and just hardwire it to my battery directly. I was just hoping to keep the plug so I can use it in other vehicles when I dont have the bus going.
Or I could get sort of adapter such as below to hardwire it:
_________________
72' Sunroof Bus - Kansas Beige
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-21257.htm
Build thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7257521 |
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32989
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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kamzcab86
Samba Moderator
Joined: July 26, 2008
Posts: 8515
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 4:03 pm Post subject: |
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| matt94gt wrote: |
So your saying for my ARB fridge/cooler not to run it constantly with a Blue Seas power port? That was my plan, but I could snip off the 12V plug on the ARB and just hardwire it to my battery directly. I was just hoping to keep the plug so I can use it in other vehicles when I dont have the bus going.
Or I could get sort of adapter such as below to hardwire it: |
Or hardwire it for a secure connection in the van and get a second 12V power cord for use in other cars.
http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15610
_________________
~Kamz
1986 Cabriolet: www.Cabby-Info.com
1990 Vanagon Westfalia: Old Blue's Blog
2016 Golf GTI S
"Real knowledge is to know the extent of one's ignorance." - 孔子 |
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djkeev
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matt94gt
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