Rear Wheel bearing outer race too tight.

[Ian]

I remember havin to pay the piper on those bearings. Looks like they are stocking FEBI brand now..

Late model Outer (71-79):

FEBI Part Number: ATM 211501283D $43.20 /ea

Looks like they have KOYO or NAPA brand as for the inners. I did this about a year and a half ago and was able to get whatever my local NAPA had on hand, which at the time was either another FEBI or an SKF/FAG bearing. I would purchase the NAPA brand without hesitation.

KOYO ATM 211501287 $18.36/ea
NAPA Part Number: BRG 6207J $28.35/ea

Grease seal:

ELRING Part Number: ATM 211501317 $3.33/ea
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[notchboy]

I did the driver side yesterday. The outer was toast. I ended up pulling the assembly off and using a press to do all the work. When I get to the pass side- it will go super fast.

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[old DKP driver]

Nice job Jason

When I replaced the rear trailing arm bushings on my bus a while back
I thought for sure I would need to do bearings as well but, they just needed a good cleaning & repack.

One thing I over looked was the brake line grommets that fit in the bearing housing.
I searched and finally found them in Canada.
Here is the part# if yours are bad
211-611-743
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[chrisd1891]

[notchboy]

At first I bought a generic clamp puller from NAPA to push the spline out. That sucked ass! When I came to my sences, I realized that the press was my savior. I used it for everything. Pushing the spline out, pushing bearings out, pushing new ones in and finaly pushing the outer collar on - the one in which this thread was started for....on. But I had to go to Home Depot to get a pipe piece that would go around the spline be more than 4in long to push that prick on.

In the end I got it about 70% on. Ill need to hone the inside of the pipe out to get to 100% press a bilaty. But it didnt matter because when you put the hub back on it will press it on the rest of the way when you torque the big nut on the outside! Stopping on the spacer and inner bearing.

When I do the pass side, Ill lay out a step by step. Its hard to give nuggets of info to the average shade tree mechanic in us when Im privy to a wide range of cool shit in my cousins large ass covered garage that makes my wrenching life easier. But the press is a harbor freight deal that came in handy in this case.
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[SGKent]

the inner race should slide on, sometimes just finger tight. If it is too tight it may mean the outer bearing is oval in shape. That is what I ran into on the KMM bearings. Light taps is the most it should take to slide it in.
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[chrisd1891]

Well...got the FAG bearing and installed it. It definitely went in easier than the PEX one. Got everything back together and still hear that growling noise. Ugh...I'll do the other side now which will go a lot quicker....I'm just hoping this noise really is wheel bearings and not some stupid trivial thing. I have new CVs as well.

Anyway, thanks for all the advice. It helped a lot.
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[Amskeptic]

[chrisd1891]

[busdaddy]

[Amskeptic]

The feel I speak of is rotating the axle flange with no brake hardware or CV installed. You are a bit past where I thought you were.
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[Petervw]

[chrisd1891]

Oops, yea, sorry I didn't update.

Did the other side with a FAG outer bearing and a PEX inner, and the noise disappeared.

As for play, I don't have any way to measure it, but there is supposed to be some, but not much. I honestly couldn't tell a difference in terms a play in new vs. old, but the old bearing definitely felt stiff and draggy when I took it out. When I put the new one in, that draggy-ness was gone completely. And the noise is definitely gone.
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[Hoody]

As far as bearings go...there are only two choices. And for that matter pretty much every part that goes into any vehicle. Having owned a 37 year old Japanese car and seeing the chump vendors that try to pawn off Chinese garbage for many years...the Germans and the Japanese take a HUGE amount of pride in their products. Aisin who is the OE manufacturer for many of the critical parts for my FJ40 still makes the parts in Japan. The Germans are the only other group of producers that still will not compromise quality. I am speaking of companies like Porsche. Even Mercedes has gone through numerous changes over the years. Daimler Chrysler almost sunk them. My point is the Japs have always had extreme quality controls in place. Perhaps I am mistaken. 30 years ago when I was a skate rat the only bearings to use were KOYO. There is a reason that Scott at German Supply has a mixed bag for his bearing kits. Years ago there was a shite load of boot leg SKF bearings that flooded the market. FAG has always stayed consistent. Mine were made in South Korea and I know they will be spot on. Homework goes a long way.

[Petervw]

[c'estlavw]

First time post-er! So glad something like this exists it has helped me countless times! This is the first time I haven't been able to find the information already in the forums and this seemed like the appropriate conversation to post it in...

I have a 74 bus (1.8 L) and I have removed my rear wheel bearings and just began the installation process. I got the FAG bearings (so glad I didn't have to find that out the hard way) and have the outer bearing tapped in. It is currently flush with the outside of the housing (i.e. what you can see from the outside of the car-the part that is closest to the castellated nut--sorry if this is redundant just trying to be specific)--and I'm reasonably sure this is where it goes.. I know I should have taken a picture before we took it all apart but unfortunately.. Anyways, I'm just looking for confirmation before I continue assembly that you want the outer bearing flush with the outside part of the housing.

Thanks in advance for any input.

[SGKent]

[richparker]

Did I miss the post that said freeze the bearings and heat the housing? This worked great in my install, the bearings slid right in with no press. Another way is a Park bottom bracket (a bike tool) press. My buddy used one on his bug.
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[Tcash]

68-79 inner rear wheel bearing.
Prt# 211 501 287
6207-J
207

ID 35mm
OD 72mm
WD 17mm

68-70 outer rear bearing.
Prt# 211 501 283
1208S

ID 40mm
OD 80mm
WD 18mm


71-79 outer rear wheel bearing.
Prt# 211 501 283D
GRW111

ID 35mm
OD 62mm
WD 19mm

[kreemoweet]

Hey, Tcash! Better check yer notes, my '71 bus outer bearings are 62 mm OD, outer race is 16.7-18 mm wide (varies with brand), inner race is 18.95 mm wide.
The figures you posted might be for the old-style outer bearings (part #? I dunno, maybe 211-501-283B).
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